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“Hilma Hooker” & “Mi Dushi”

Jacquie and Dave joined us aboard Dignity before 9am for another day out diving. Our first spot was the “Hilma Hooker” a wreck a few miles to the south. There were already two dive boats there when we arrived so we snagged the third and only remaining mooring. The two dive boats departed before we descended but there was a group of shore divers also on the wreck so we weren’t quite alone. The ship was on its side on sand nestled perfectly between two reefs. The bottom was the usual 100ft and the top of the wreck around 50ft. We were able to swim around the wreck, under some of the superstructure and into the cargo holds. We finished the dive exploring the reef at shallower depths.

(The following pics of Helen & I were taken by Jacquie)

We all decided the quality of the reef down south was not as good as around Klein Bonaire so we agreed to head off to the north side of Klein Bonaire to the dive site Helen and I first went to. To get there we stuck out the head sail only and plodded along at 2½ knots deliberately killing time to allow the nitrogen to leave us.

Even though we’d dived “Mi Dushi” before, a different depth profile makes the dive quite different. I wanted to test the depth of the bottom as we’d limited ourselves to 70ft previously. 10ft from the bottom I decided enough was enough as we’d reached 125ft and I didn’t want to use up all our air. So we headed back to the 50-70ft range in search of the (totally) elusive sea-horses. We did sea a young turtle feeding on the reef and a number of eels among the countless other fish.

Back at the moorings we dropped of Dave to collect his dinghy and moored back on the spot that Inspiration Lady had left. We’ve given up on the local open internet connections. Our system seems too sensitive and is overwhelmed with all the coastal wireless networks. Further out we get good signals but up close its very temperamental. We’ve resorted to a pay by use service which is strong enough to counter the numerous other sites we see.

Our parts (wind gen and genset parts for Jackster) didn’t arrive yesterday although I know from the Fedex site they arrive in Puerto Rico on Monday. There is a flight in today so hopefully we’ll see them this afternoon. If we can, I want to devote a day before we leave to getting it going. We’re now looking at Friday for our departure, weather permitting of course.

This evening we’re planning a night dive. As our boats are adjacent we can all hit the water from our own boats and join up in the water. Not sure about the rest of the day.

Leaving Bonaire soon

It’s not long now before we’ll be leaving Bonaire. Our next major stop for any appreciable time will be in Cartagena, Colombia. For consideration has always been the possibility of stopping off in Curacao and/or Aruba along the way. Recently our thinking has been to bypass these islands. The trip to Cartagena from Bonaire is approximately 500nm. Getting there may take approximately 4 days. The winds north of 11-12 degrees north of the equator are usually reasonable for sailing but south of these latitudes we may slow down considerably. Stopping off at Curacao and/or Aruba will break the journey down but each one would add a couple of days to the trip. We’re both looking forward to spending time in a capital city so the trade off doesn’t seem worth it. (In fact, many folks make the entire trip as a series of day sails including around 5 stops along the Colombian coast) Our current thinking is to leave Bonaire this coming Thursday and sail direct to Cartagena.

With this in mind I have set up appropriate waypoints for our passage to and entry into the Bay of Cartagena. We don’t have detailed charts on our main chart plotter for this area but as I have them elsewhere now I was able to transfer to coordinates from one system to the other. We are ready in that respect. The only remaining detail is the weather. We’ll be keeping a close eye on forecasts over the next few days to ensure we don’t run into any avoidable nasties.

Yesterday morning we moved the boat hoping to get a better internet connection. For a few minutes we did and in that time I managed to download all my backlogged email. I learned that our wind gen is on the way and due to arrive Tuesday.

I took in our dive tanks to be refilled. While there I inquired about second hand BCDs. There is one available and we may pick it up for when John is with us and for spares. I also discussed some of our recent dives and our inability to find any seahorses. I was told that there was one to be found right where we were anchored, supposedly amongst a pile of old rope on the shallow sands between us and the shore.

Back on the boat I decided to see if I could find this seahorse. True to form it eluded me but I did spot a turtle and was followed everywhere by a pack of tame sergeant majors and angel fish.

Just before noon, Helen and I went ashore to meet Oud from Alofa. She had a couple of things of ours to return plus a bottle of wine to say thanks again for the earlier assistance we gave. We met at the Cappuccino Bar at the end of a pier in town. We stayed together for a couple of drinks before separating.

Helen and I walked around town taking pictures (for posterity) before stopping off for lunch at one of the restaurants. It was more of a Dutch fast food joint and I was dismayed when they delivered my fries with mayonnaise all over them. I should have remembered the Dutch do this.

We popped into the supermarket for some fresh veg and bread bumping into the Jacksters for the second time that day. Back on Dignity we both felt very tired so it was down to a couple of hours reading and resting. Allayne from Audrey Paige swung by in her dinghy letting us know they were off to Curacao soon and hoped to meet us there. Chances are our next meet up will be Cartagena. There plans are to take the day hop route but they should arrive before we leave. They also plan to be in the San Blas for Xmas so we’ll probably meet up then too.

Today we’re off diving again. Jacksters are again going to join us. We’ll move Dignity south where we hope to dive on the Hilmer Hooker, a nearby wreck.

“Southwest Corner” and “Forest”

Sunday was a two dive day for us. Jacqui and Dave from Jackster joined us aboard Dignity for these two. Their boat is longer than the allowed 45ft or so to tie up on the dive moorings so as we were aiming for sites further than it would be comfortable in the dinghy we invited them to join us.

From looking at our guide we set our sights on the location called “Forest”. Unfortunately, it was occupied by a dive boat when we arrived so we took the next one, “Southwest Corner”. It was on the farthest tip of Klein Bonaire and the waters were quite rolly. We quickly prepped and put on our gear and got into the water where, once below, the swell is no more. The sea life was abundant here with a huge variety of towering coral formations. At times the fish were swimming in lanes at different heights and different angles in and amongst the coral formations. I was reminded of that scene from the old B&W movie, Metropolis, where the lanes of flying vehicles snake between the skyscrapers. The area seemed to be a nursery for juvenile barracuda as we saw quite a few including three together at one point. Our deepest point on this dive was 109ft and overall it lasted 70 minutes.

We then moved the boat clockwise around Klein Bonaire to find a free mooring out of the swell for lunch.

In the afternoon we moved the boat back around to “Forest” which was now free. This was tight against the coast and again quite swelly. This dive proved to be perhaps the best so far in Bonaire. While the overall profile was quite similar with the 25ft sandy/coral bottom with a drop off to 100+ft it varied in that the reef drop off undulated with many buttresses. We therefore snaked our way along the reef and as we turned the corner on each buttress it felt like we were going somewhere new. Again the variety and quantity of sea life was amazing. I always like finding scrawled filefish which tend to be quite solitary. We found six large ones all together. We also saw (actually on both dives) immense midnight blue parrot fish as well as a graceful and large eagle ray. This sight had a surface current which was not too evident deeper down. Half the dive was spent moving up current below it. The second half was spent almost drifting back to the boat looking at the shallower coral gardens peering for the elusive sea horses.

By the time we got back it was 4:30pm. We took the mooring that Inspiration Lady had departed (to Curacao) hoping to get a better internet connection. This turned out not to be so sometime today we’ll shift the boat yet again.

We finished of the evening watching “Kite Runner” which I thought was a very good adaptation of the acclaimed book.

No diving planned for today but I will get the tanks filled.

Footnote: I sent this blog out the first time via SSB. Normally it doesn’t work this early in the morning but I tried some more distant stations. I made it via a receiver in Belgium, doubling my best distance yet, over 4,000nm away. We have also moved the boat and have good internet again.

“Bonaventure”

Saturday morning saw us heading back to Klein Bonaire to dive on a location called “Bonaventure” along with the Jacksters. They first joined us aboard Dignity so we could discuss and agree location before we headed off in our separate dinghies.

This time I took my camera and we were able to capture pictures of the fantastic reef at that site. The photos simply don’t do the place justice. Below the dinghies at around 20ft was a sandy bottom out of which corals grew looking as if they’d been planted there. Next to this patch was the obligatory (for Bonaire) drop off, this time being almost vertical.

The dive profile was similar to before – down to 90-100ft before slowly making our way back up the reef. We spent the final 15 minutes searching for seahorses (again none found) in the corals beneath the dinghies.

We had a lazy afternoon reading ending up grilling some fine pork ribs we’d picked up on the island. After dinner it was over to the Jacksters to play a game of Mexican Train Dominoes along with the Inspiration Ladies. Congrats to Jackie (Inspiration Lady) for winning the evening’s play.

“Front Porch”

Would you believe it I finally obtained the dive map from Budget Marine yesterday. I dropped off the four used tanks at Dive Friends letting them know one had lost about 1,000 PSI before we used it and pointed out where the leak was. Even though we’d managed a decent dive on it the manager gave us a free fill. Very nice of them. Our tanks still hadn’t arrived yet so I took another two.

Helen and I then packed our gear into the dinghy and went to a spot just north of Harbour Village Marina called “Front Porch”. It wasn’t clear where the spot was from the sea as my guess is is that the dive marker was on land. We asked someone in the water who gave us guidance to the spot – at least where he thought it was. One of the attractions to this spot was a wreck of a fishing boat sitting on the bottom at 80ft.

We donned our gear, always a little more awkward in the dinghy, and back flipped into the water. After making sure we were both ok we descended to find the wreck. We hit bottom at 102ft and saw no wreck. To conserve air we ascended to about 70ft and headed south, this being my guess as to the direction of the wreck. After about 5 minutes the wreck appeared out of the shadows. It was on it’s side in about 90ft with the open section away from us. We swum over it then peered under.

The dive then progressed as with the previous ones, running parallels along the sloping reef ascending 10-20ft each time. We spotted a sinister looking and very large barracuda lurking in the depths and Helen caught sight of a green moray hiding in the reef. Nearer the top of the reef we came upon what we both initially thought was murky water. It turned out to be a few of the corals spawing. Out of their tubular vents poured a fine mist like underwater volcanoes. That was a great surprise as we thought all the spawning had occurred during September and October.

Back on Dignity we rested for an hour before heading off for a walk. We wanted some leg exercise as we’d had none for a while. We walked along the seafront for a while before heading into the commercial district. We wanted to check out the supermarkets over that way before making any broader effort to buy any supplies. As suspected the prices reflected the geographic/political isolation of the island so we only bought opportunistically – ie, things we don’t normally see. In this case it was a couple of small packets of nan bread. We bumped into the Jacksters, Inspiration Ladies and their friends on Going South who were provisioning up having hired a vehicle they could share.

We walked further out of town before looping back and coming back in from a different direction. We picked up some fresh milk on the way. We again bumped into the Jacksters, et al, at the dinghy dock as they were loading up their supplies.

That was about it. Back on the boat we had our evening meal and I wrestled with the internet for a while. Something’s changed recently and it’s hard to get a decent connection. Hopefully I can get this blog out.