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Anchor fun

Last night we finished watching all the Red Dwarf episodes we have with us. I had forgotten how disappointing the last series was, in particular the very last episode. Still – it kept us entertained.

Today has been a bit of a challenge. We decided to walk to town. I had the laptop in case there was somewhere we decided to use it. I had it wrapped in a waterproof bag inside our backpack. I also carried drinks, etc in case we got thirsty. The point of mentioning this is that we did not use the laptop nor drink the drinks so I had this extra weight for no benefit.

The walk to town was about a mile and a half. Again – many stores were closed but some were open. The skies are overcast today and often drizzly. We had a couple of bouts of very strong winds with torrential rain after which it felt close and humid. In town less than half the shops were open. We perused a couple of markets and bought a small hand painting as a souvenir.

The real highlight of the day was spent in the tourist office with Micheline Dellevi, a hospitality agent, who spoke very good english. She was incredibly helpful including calling up Fed Ex to find out if our Hookah has arrived. Our expectations were quite low as the ports have now ground to a halt. Container ships arrive but are not unloaded. No doubt the hookah would be caught up in all this. To our surprise it has arrived. So our plan to hire a car tomorrow now includes collecting the Hookah
which we’ll do first. If we can’t get a hire car then we’ll just have to taxi over and forget the walk.

Micheline was enthralled with our trip and wanted to see our blog. In turn we promised to include her picture which will be inserted whenever we can get internet access.

Back at the marina we popped into the supermarket. The lines at the check out were very long but we felt it worth picking up a few bits and pieces. It looks like there’s a bout of a siege mentality going on as most people had very full trolleys despite the shelves in places being empty. As I was paying for our food sirens were heard outside and a big guy with tight shades came in with a megaphone and ordered everyone out. I’m not sure if this was just lunch break or the heavies coming to enforce the strike. We had spoken to one shopkeeper early in the day who kept an ear out for the street in case she heard trouble coming so she could shut shop. She had the most dire outlook saying a lot of this was race related and that it may easily descend into violence and guns. Didn’t get that impression elsewhere fortunately.

As we returned to Dignity we had a couple of surprises. First she was practically on the other side of the channel and secondly we found the entire anchor chain let out. Turns out she had started slipping her anchor during the earlier extreme gusts of winds and some folks had come along and let out the entire chain to improve holding.

What did stop her slide was in fact a 2 inch thick underwater stranded cable of some sort. This of course came up with the anchor – a formidable thing to see. We had a new trick in our book thanks to some earlier advice. We tied a dock line to one bow cleat. I went out in the dinghy and threaded the line under the cable we had dragged up and Helen tied this to the other bow cleat. Helen then lowered the anchor letting the dock line take the weight of the cable. I then pulled the anchor away
while Helen again raised it, this time without the cable being snagged. All that remained to do was get me back on the boat and released the dock line sending the cable back to the bottom and restoring our liberty.

We have been paying 10 euros per day for the privilege of anchoring near the marina. It’s the same price to use one of their mooring balls so that’s what we’ve done. We feel a bit more secure now.

We’re beginning to feel the need to get out of here more and more. The strike is a big downer and curtailing our activities. We have diminishing amounts of gas left for the dinghy. When we’re out and about tomorrow we’ll take our gerry can in case we can find somewhere to fill it. That’ll be a relief. But it’s getting to the point where we’ll be much happier in Dominica than here. Fortunately we already have our departure papers so we don’t need to clear out. If all goes well tomorrow and we collect the Hookah we may well set sail for Dominica on Friday. If we can scrounge a bit of fuel we may squeeze in Marie Galant or one or two other towns on the SE coast.

So the rest of today will be another lazy afternoon. We can’t do much. Yesterday we did spend some time mapping out the through hulls on the port side. We could complete the job and do the starboard side today. We have plenty of books to read and that’s not a bad thing at all.

Waiting

The supermarket at the marina was open this morning. Meats were rare and many shelves were bare but we managed to provision a little. Gas stations are still closed with fuel going only to emergency services. We’re now getting concerned as to how long our dinghy will last as we only have quarter of a tank remaining. As a result, we’ve moved Dignity closer to the marina so our trip time is reduced and rowing becomes more practical. Hiring a car is possible. We’ll be charged for gas depending on where the guage starts and ends. The car hire companies seem to have jerry cans tucked away. We’re thinking now about hiring a car on Thursday. We are expecting the Hookah to be returned here. It is on it’s way and in Puerto Rico right now and due on the island tomorrow. Whether it’ll arrive tomorrow or not we don’t know with this general strike going on. If it does arrive tomorrow then we can pick it up when we hire the car.

We were also expecting to collect some parts. We’ve decided to have them shipped to our guests who are arriving in Martinique in March. We can survive without them until then.

We’ve also heard that the general strike has spread to Martinique which, like Guadeloupe, is a department of France. They are asking for prices on all regular goods to be lowered by 30%. Can’t see how that can be done but that’s what they’re striking over.

We spent this morning at a local coffee shop using their complimentary internet service and catching up. We’ve been reading and doing odd things on the boat in the afternoon. Trip to Point-a-Pitre is set for tomorrow. Looks like we’ll get the fold up bikes out for the first time for this.

More broadly, if the Hookah does arrive, we may just hightail it out of here and go to Dominica earlier than planned. If the Hookah is delayed we’ll break out of P-a-P and explore the coast to the east hoping to find gasoline somewhere.

We won’t starve for a while as we can make bread and water. We have plenty of noodles and canned goods. Fruit stalls are doing good business ashore.

If where we are were pretty it would not be so bad. Problem is it’s a bit of a port with container facilities across the bay and not so pretty waterside businesses and apartment blocks around. No idyllic beaches to be found right here.

Strike goes on

Turns out the general strike is still on. Even the supermarkets are closed today. Some things are open though. We’ve been out around the marina and had pizza for lunch, complete with a small carafe of wine. Been asleep since lunch. Back out soon.

Last couple of days I’ve been listening in to the “Coconut Telegraph” on the short wave. It’s at 8am in the morning and it’s a call in of Caribbean cruisers. I tried calling in myself but failed. I found it hard to here the net coordinator. What we did manage was to hear a chap a few boats down call in so we hailed him on the VHF and ended up having him aboard for a chat. He was born in Malta but lived over half his life in Canada. His boats name is “The Maltese Falcon”.

Settling down for the night

We did move Dignity to see if we could pick up a connection. We tried something new. Having installed the antenna on the boom we motored around checking for signals. Much more sensitive than the Canary. We did find an open connection right in the town harbour where we couldn’t anchor. I downloaded all my email before we headed out. Nothing urgent.

So we’re settling down for the evening in a spot between the marina and the town so we can visit both tomorrow. Hopefully this time the tourist office won’t be on strike and we’ll be able to book a car for Tuesday. Fingers crossed.

Tonight I have a test with a HAM based in Los Angeles. He is part of a party who will be joining us aboard Dignity in March when we rendezvous with them in Martinique. Looking forward to seeing if we can make the connection.

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Cold, wet & In Point a Pitre

We’ve made it to Point-a-Pitre. The going started very slow with very little wind. Then the forecast easterly kicked in and we made good progress. It wasn’t quite enough to the east to avoid tacking so that we did. About 8nm out a front came over which brought lots of rain, a 20 degree wind shift and a calm behind. That left us motorsailing until a couple of nm out when all hell hit loose. We dropped the sails with winds in the mid 30s and motored the rest of the way in in cold drenching rain driving in from the side. This made me very wet. Helen was able to hide indoors.

This was our least pleasant crossing to date. Helen did not find one bit to enjoy. Right now we’re anchored outside of the marina in Point-a-Pitre. Where we are we have no internet connection. As we came up the river I was using my Canary to detect providers. There’s one a little way back. We may move there later. For now it’s a warm shower and a nap.

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