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Rain

It rained a little more today but not as much as earlier this week. Here is a brief clip of the rain we experienced on Thursday.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tSb078LsGk[/youtube]

A Day in the Bay

Saturday morning we went to the flea market in Whisper Cove Marina. We arrived a few minutes early only to find the place jostling with cruisers looking to sell unwanted gear and those looking for bargains. We managed to pick up some free guides to Australia and an RS232 cable splitter which I need to talk to some of my gear.

Bristol Roses were there looking to sell some of their US charts and guidebooks. Where IIs were wandering around as were the Jacksters.

Helen and I took a little walk up the hill from Whisper Cove and found a lovely plot of land overlooking the bay. It would be a great place to build a home and we wonder why one hasn’t been built there. No doubt someone owns the land and is hanging on for the right event. Here’s a panoramic video from the location.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zp6tiiewGuQ[/youtube]

Back at the marina we again bumped into the Jacksters and ended up inviting David and Jacqui over for a curry aboard Dignity.

Back aboard Dignity is was down to clearing and cleaning ready for our trip to Trinidad. I wanted to check and clean the props and decided if I was down there on the hookah I may as well clean the hulls too. I’m beginning to despise this job as it takes all the fun out of being in the water. Down here the wriggly critters are prevalent so despite putting my wetsuit on they still got into my hair and neckline.

The evening came David and Jacqui joined us. We had a great evening sharing stories and the odd joke. I managed to find one that David didn’t already know which, if you know David, is quite a result. In the end they left around midnight, the real one, which is a testament to how much we enjoyed the evening. We have roughly similar plans so hopefully we’ll be bumping into the Jacksters (not literally) from time to time.

Checking the weather this morning it is again looking like Monday evening offers the better weather window for Trini. For a while it was beginning to look like tonight would be better but now the odds are shifting in favour of Monday again. Probably for the best as we’re a little tired this morning.

Final note. Yesterday I discovered a page on the winlink site that shows our current and recent positions on a single page. This gives you a better idea of how we’re moving about and should be pretty good when we’re covering larger distances. I’ve provided a link to it on our ‘Where Are We?‘ page for future reference.

The following pics include views of the boat to give a sense of the place we’re anchored.

Cutty’s Island Tour

After proving that using the winch power cables for my solar panel supply was effective, doing the job properly took a bit of extra effort. It was important to me to be able to put the wires back to their original use so cutting them or changing the ends was not on. Nor were the lugs on the ends of the wires the right size for connecting to my charge controller so I had to find the right pieces to make it all work. Nearby Budget Marine had some but not all the parts I needed. A longer walk to an electrical store found some of the other parts I needed plus they let me use their hydraulic crimper to place the lugs on the end on my leads which I’d brought to the store.

Another possible piece of luck is I got talking to the store manager and he learned I may have some spare batteries. We may have a deal on where I can borrow some of his top end tools in exchange for a battery or two. Given that I’m unlikely to sell them all this would be really good if we can pull this off. Having the best connections possible has no substitute so getting hold of good tools will make my future rewiring work the best I can do.

After clearing everything up we had just enough time to clean up, shower and go ashore to meet Inge. Inge is someone we’ve been trying to meet for two months. She is good friends of Des and Sue from Desue (who we got to know well in St Martin). She also runs the local radio net a couple of times per week. We’ve had a number of near calls for meeting up but for one reason or another it never happened until yesterday evening.

We met Inge who showed up with her significant friend Hal at Prickly Bay Marina where we enjoyed a couple of drinks at their Tiki bar during Happy Hour. We then went back to the boat for more conversation and, whatever. We ended up back ashore for pizza. The whole evening was very enjoyable. Hal gave me some great tips for the passage to Trinidad and what to do when we’re there so we’re very thankful for that.

Today we were tourists and took Cutty’s round Grenada tour. Cutty is the same fellow we took to go and see the turtles back in May I think. His tours have a very good reputation and he has a good gig going with the cruiser community.

The day started at 9am with a pickup at De Big Fish. You may have gathered De Big Fish is a focal point and it is. For the reason that they have a pretty good dinghy dock close to the road, Budget Marin and public transportation to shops and the capital. With four others, we were soon heading off to St Georges to collect the remainder of the ride.

Our first stop was at the prison overlooking town. The prisoners get a great view – something seems wrong here. We learned the prison was housing 3 times the prisoners it was originally built for which seems just like the rest of the world.

We then took the winding roads into Grand Etang, the rain forest in the center of Grenada. Our next stop was at a spice kiosk where Cutty showed us some naturally growing spices followed by the opportunity to purchase some at very low prices.

The third stop was at the Annandale Waterfalls. These were set in small but beautifully laid out gardens. The waterfalls could have been magical but were a bit too concreted around and too touristy (hark who complains). They were worth the effort of stopping for though. We had the option to go swimming which only one of our party took up. A couple of locals ran their little enterprise there which involved jumping into the pool below the falls from a high height and collecting tips for their efforts. I noticed their eyes were a bit bloodshot which could be due to their frequent forceful dunkings.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oORkki_DgaA[/youtube]

After that we followed the road up into the hills to 2,000 feet above sea level and arrived at the place where one can see the local (from Africa) monkeys. We weren’t disappointed and got to see many of them including having the chance to scratch one of the old timers.

Onward from there we made our way over to the Rivers Rum Distillery. Along the way we stopped for some local interest including some colourful caterpillars which you can see in the slide show below.

Lunch was at the distillery in a nice raised restaurant. We were told lunch was EC$30 each which included a tour of the distillery. Helen and I both ordered rotis and were incredibly disappointed by the size in comparison to others’ meals.

They passed around a book for feedback and we (I) wrote down our disappointment only to discover our rotis only cost EC$10 which is next to nothing. Oh well – had we known we might have ordered two each and been more than satisfied.

Next came the tour which was fascinating. The rum making process was still dependent on the use of a water wheel to drive the machinery that crushed the sugar cane and squeeze all the juice out of it. Most of the rest of the work was intensely manual.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUPeCtRgtxI[/youtube]

The tour ended with a tasting session which included some of the 75%+ by volume strength rum. I felt all tingly after.

I fell asleep on the bus after my double whammy of lunch and rum. I was soon woken at the nutmeg factory. It’s a sorry tale really. Grenada used to be the number 2 in the world for nutmeg exports. Hurricane Ivan in 2004 destroyed 90% of production which has yet to recover. The facility we saw used to employ 140 people. Now it employs 8. There’s a lot of replanting being done so over the coming years the industry will hopefully recover.

Our final stop was at a wonderful little beach on the south side of the island.

This was one of those picture postcard spots. We were able to splash around a little in our bare feet and explore a little before heading back to our various stops.

This was definitely a very good tour and would recommend it to anyone. For a full day out and informative guide the cost was extremely good too.

Back on the boat I was eager to check the effectiveness of the solar charging. The day had been a little overcast but I was pleased to note that the panels had fully charged our batteries despite this. I’m still feeling pleased about this one.

Soufriere – climb to the crater rim

Feeling stiff about now – here’s why. We left the boat this morning around 8am with only one slip up – forgot the map. After a brief trip back to the boat, setting the dinghy stern anchor a second time, and locking the dinghy a second time we were ready to set off.

It’s only a small climb to the main road to pick up the busses. We had thought that all busses heading away from town would take us up island but that was not the case. A local fellow sitting on the wall set us straight and as he recognized all the busses he helped us identify the right one. While waiting we had a little chat about not a lot.

Up and down the islands (except for Mustique of course) there is a similarity in the bus services. All rely on minivans which can squish in about 18 people. Both Grenada and St Vincent make use of ‘conducters’ who open and close the side door, lean out looking for new customers, help squeeze more people in and handle the money. This leaves the driver to concentrate on driving. And they need to here in St Vincent as they race along the winding roads at break-neck speeds performing acts of driving that would disqualify them from driving instantly in other countries. An example today was overtaking, at high speed, another bus which had stopped on a pedestrian crossing.

Today’s ride may just well be one of those that sticks in our memory. The ride was more memorable due to the local radio station playing Michael Jackson as a result of his passing yesterday. The driving was not too “Bad” but it was certainly a “Thriller”. I thought the lyrics “Don’t stop till you get enough” were quite appropriate. They managed to fill the bus to capacity despite us with our rucksacks, several large people, mother with small child on lap, a man with a ladder and someone else with a box. Amazing.

We survived the ride intact and soon caught a second bus to cover the remaining distance to the closest point we could ride a bus to the mountain trail. This was on the coast road a couple of miles from the trailhead which was also at around 1,100 feet above us. This extra leg was a small price to pay for the money saved. The ‘quote’ for the official ride was US$140. So far we’d spent EC$10 total getting there (less than US$4). The air was stuffy and very humid as we walked through a plantain plantation. I started developing a blister very quickly so we stopped so I could pay it some attention. I think all the walking in bare feet and flip flops have left my ankles with tender skin, unused to the rigours of hiking boots. As I was putting my boot back on a lorry/truck carrying teachers and kids from a local tech school came round the corner and stopped, offering us a ride to the trailhead. This was most welcome as it eliminated a climb of around 800ft from our overall ascent to the crater rim at 3,100ft.

We were soon on the trail sweating in what felt like 100% humidity. The vegetation varied along the route as we climbed from bamboo woods to rainforest to more like scrub towards the top. The trail was generally in good condition but towards the top it was a bit of a scramble alongside deep gulleys eroded into the volcanic soil. Towards the top we joined up with the leading group of students and their lead who knew the mountain well. I think he’d said he’d climbed the volcano around 50 times so he knew his stuff.

At the rim it was windy and chilly and initially not a good view. The crater floor which I believe is 1,000 feet from the rim was barely visible. We ate our lunch here waiting for the mist to clear and eventually we were reward with an awesome view. The crater is quite large with a bulge in the center forming a circular crater floor. There was a small lake on the floor nearest to us and steam was visible rising from the central bulge off to our left. A video I took perhaps shows this best.

We eventually parted company with the students and teacher who wanted to see if they could descend into the crater further round. There was a path for this but we weren’t up to it. Going down was, as ever, much easier than climbing up. Near the top we met a family (John, Lynette, Jasmine and Brandon (we think)). He had a distinct North London accent (Harringay) and she was clearly Australian. They were on their way back to Australia via St Vincent where his mother lives. They were on their way up.

Having made it back to the trailhead we set about walking down the road we had been given a ride up. Close to where we were picked up the first time a minibus stopped by – it was John and Lynette with their guide on the way back down. They gave us a ride back to Georgetown saving us a bit of a hot walk and an EC$ each for the short bus ride (it all counts).

After picking up a couple of drinks we caught a bus back to Dignity. From the start of our walk to the end of the final bus ride I had my GPS running so you can see our walks, our rides and the bus ride home on the following map (if you care to).


View 2009-06-26 Soufriere in a larger map

Back on the boat we’re resting our weary limbs. Finally – here are our pics.

Turtles

We started the day, yesterday, by moving Dignity back round to Prickly Bay so we could shop for drinks and be close to the turtle tour evening pickup. The short motor round from Hog Bay, with the wind and current behind us, was a breeze.

INSERT_MAP

Before it became too warm Helen and I went ashore, walked to the nearby highway and visited a number of shops: ACE Hardware (for a power multiblock), NY Bagels (for a snack), a Cash & Carry and the Grenada Brewery outlet. At the latter we picked up a couple of crates of beer and a crate of Ting which we lugged back to the boat on our trolley.

We rested through midday. In the afternoon I picked up dinghy fuel from Prickly Bay Marina and made another trip back to the brewery outlet for two more crates of Ting and one more crate of beer. We are now set, drinkwise, for June and July.

At 6pm we met up outside Budget Marine with Cutty and a number of other cruisers to be taken to the north of the island to see turtles coming ashore to lay their eggs. For the record, among the group were Liz & Bob from Yanena (probably spelt incorrectly) who arranged the group outing, Judy, Jim & Charlotte from Heatwave and Marianne and Theo from Double Dutch. Hopefully we’ll see these folks again.

The trip north took around 90 minutes. We stopped off about 10-15 minutes before the target beach to pick up our guide who was associated with a local research group. She gave us a short brief on what to expect and some do’s and don’ts – in particular no white torches and no camera flashes as these would disturb the turtles.

We arrived at the beach around 8pm and began waiting. We saw no action until around 9:30pm when someone spotted some baby turtles hatching and we received word that a turtle had landed at the other end of the beach around 700 meters away.

We first made our way over to where the baby turtles were surfacing. The average nest has around 100 eggs, most of which will hatch successfully. In this case we saw around six to eight early arrivals scrambling around roughly making their way to the sea.

A few who had red light torches were able to guide the baby turtles to the sea by shining their light ahead of them as they had an instinct to follow the light.

Here is a brief video of the baby turtles crossing the sand

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrU1FAqiCNw[/youtube]

Next we trudged to the other end of the beach to see the turtle reported to have landed there. Along the way we were nervous of treading on other baby turtles that may be hatching and making their way to the sea. Fortunately, I don’t think we squished any. Nor did we see any others. In the low light our eyes would play tricks on us. In the distance I thought I saw a massive turtle but it turned out to be a boat.

Eventually we made it all the way to the other end of the beach where we found some researchers helping a 1000lb turtle dig her nest. She was having difficulties as her right flipped appeared injured and was not removing sand effectively. The turtle would only begin laying her eggs when she can feel no more sand beneath her. This was not going to happen without help.

It was exhausting just watching her and eventually a reflex must have triggered and she abandoned this attempt to try elsewhere.

The researchers knew when we were able to come close to watch. During the early digging we were asked to stand well away which we did. As the hole developed we were allowed to come close. When this turtle made a second attempt she was left alone with just the researchers to help as this was clearly going to be a difficult night for her.

Fortunately, another turtle came ashore as we were heading back to the taxi. Again we stood off until it was ok to come near. This turtle was fit and able to dig her hole without assistance. Soon we were able to come close and watch. Methodically she would excavate each side of the hole with her hind flippers creating quite a deep, squarish hole for her eggs.

When her senses told it was time she went into her egg laying trance. In this mode she was practically senseless to what was going on around. We were able to touch her carapace (soft shell) and her fore flippers without disturbing her. She was also unphazed by the researcher holding her rear flippers apart so they could count the eggs and we could see them.

In order to preserve the species they were prepared to move the nest if it was too damp which would put the eggs at risk. The researchers felt this nest was ok so no preparations were made. Two types of eggs are laid. Normal yolk filled eggs are laid which will produced babies. Around these, smaller yolkless eggs are laid as filler so that the yolked eggs don’t get too much sand between them.

Midnight approached so we had to head back to the taxi careful again to avoid any possible hatchlings. We saw a third turtle ashore to nest and lay her eggs along the way. It was nearly 2pm before we finally returned to Dignity. We were exhausted and fell asleep immediately. This was a one of a kind day and if you ever get an opportunity to do this yourself, seize it.

Here is a video of the two turtles we saw digging their nests. You should see the difference between the injured turtle in the first half and the fit turtle in the latter. Enjoy.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iquyH7qJJ6I[/youtube]

Finally – all the pics.