Category: Cruiser Connections

  • Steve: Day 22 – landfall

    0nm to go. But what a day!!!!

    I was woken by John at 5am for my morning watch. This was ships time. Local time it was 1:30am. A quick scan of the distance to go revealed we must have had a very slow 6 hours. Talking to Helen later I learned she’d even had 30 mins with no wind whatsoever.

    We now needed to average nearly 5 knots to make landfall by an hour before sunset and we weren’t making that. As mentioned in my last blog I started off giving the boat a push with the power stored in the drive batteries. We had been cross charging the house bank from the drive bank for the last couple of days without replenishment so after a couple of hours I needed to turn on the genset. I put it in ‘mode 4’ which sends most of the power from the genset to the house and a smaller amount to the drive. This was fine as I wanted to give the house batteries a really good charge.

    This all happened as I battled my way through a number of squalls with wind shifting from all angles necessitating quite a few changes to the sails. Sometimes the wind would blow strong enough to keep us well above our desired 5 knots and sometimes not.

    After about an hour of charging Helen awoke. Having washed almost everything we still had a few towels to wash and as the seas were still flat, despite the squalls, we could wash these while we had the house power.

    The wash went on and I turned on the water maker. This was to be our first problem of the day. The water maker made no water coming up with an error message instead. I power cycled it a few times but with the same results. It appeared that the high pressure pump was not running in automatic mode. There is a manual mode which I’ve never used before. I tried this. The high pressure pump ran in this mode but fresh water was not being produced.

    I compiled a long email for Spectra support putting in all the information that I thought may help them in troubleshooting including all the settings I could read. We powered down the genset and the motors so I could email this and our blogs off during the small morning window that we have for sending out emails. Once done I powered up the genset again.

    Here we ran into the next problem of the day. The battery charger detected the power being back on but refused to charge the batteries. Not good. John had already been woken by my rummaging around in his room looking at the water maker problem. Now I needed to get under his bunk to examine the charger.

    By now we’d sighted land but the thrill of doing so evaded me as I was wrapped up with the gloom of multiple issues.

    The troubleshooting guide in the manual I had for the charger did not cover the symptoms I had nor did it cover the particular set of lights I had showing. I wondered if some sort of reset was required. With John at the helm to hand steer I isolated the house batteries for a short while then reconnected them. Checking everything was ok I ran into a third problem. The solar panel controller, which had been charging the house bank (by now it was day time), was no longer registering any charging. I’m glad I’d installed the remote display back in the Caribbean as I would not have seen this. You can imagine my spirits were sinking fast.

    To get to the solar controller I had to get inside the starboard transom which also contains some stores and our bicycles (which we’ve hardly ever used). This requires moving the stores and squeezing oneself into a tight space. Looking at the controller it was obvious it had done a factory reset. I had forgotten the password required to go through the initial set up so I had to go and look that up before initializing the unit. Thankfully this worked and we were gaining power from the sunlight.

    Around then I had a second thought about the manual mode for the water maker. We put it back into manual mode then instructed the front panel to make water automatically. Hey presto we were making water. Not ideal but having a work around would see us through to a proper fix. My spirits were lifting.

    Back to the charger. I verified it still worked as an inverter but try as I might I could find no way to make it charge. One of the indicators suggested there may be a battery voltage issue which was certainly not the case as I was able to measure this independently. Thinking it may be a thermal cut off (despite the thermal cut off light not being lit) I ran a fan over the unit and kept it aired for a couple of hours. No improvement. My current hypothesis is that the voltage sensor in the unit has failed making it think there is a problem. This doesn’t stop the inverting to give us mains power but it perhaps fatally impacts the charging.

    After about an hour of making water we suddenly heard a screaming noise coming from the high pressure pump. We quickly had the unit switched off. All further attempts to start the water maker came to no success. Follow up emails were compiled and sent to Spectra.

    By now I was exhausted. We’d been on and off motoring, mostly on batteries, but after the many squalls had passed we were left with pretty good winds. As we approached Fatu Hiva the waters became short and choppy putting strain on the boat as it tossed around. I tried to catch up some sleep but that was barely successful.

    As we rounded the southern end of the island we established VHF contact with Kamaya. They wanted us to relay a message to the SSB net which was not contactable from the bay. We shut everything down and got onto the net breaking in out of turn before we also lost contact. We got the message through and got back to heading in.

    With the problems of the day parked in my mind the rounding of Fatu Hiva was finally enjoyable. The place is so rugged and barren. The volcanic origin has created so many interesting angles and features on the landscape. It almost felt like arriving at the island of King Kong.

    The bay of Hanavave (Bay of Virgins) is tucked away and not visible until we were close. Tightly packed into the bay were 23 other sail boats, a few of whom we recognized. The waters were now calm and flat. The folks from Merlin were out in their dinghy and came over to say Hello and let us know a boat had left during the day leaving a spot behind them. That was useful info. We found that spot and anchored in 50 to 60 feet taking 3 attempts to do so.

    INSERT_MAP

    We saw Tim and Ruth from Kamaya just next to us and were able to shout at each other agreeing to meet up and perhaps go to the waterfall here together.

    Then it was down to tidying up the boat, making sure things were sound, retesting the charger (still no good – thermal cut off hypothesis now very weak) getting another email off (about the charger) before finally up a beer to celebrate our arrival. We’ve covered approximately 3,050nm in 21 days and change. Comparing notes with others on the passage we’ve not had the best of it. Our first two days were a struggle to get south. We had some great sailing for nearly 2 weeks (at least John and I thought so) but the last two weeks killed us without the Code Zero in the light weather. Also, boats like Kamaya, stayed further north for a long time staying in the favourable current and getting a better angle on the wind at the end. Having said that, 3,000 odd miles in 21 days is better than planned and fairly respectable. Apart from the Code Zero and until the last morning the only other fault on the trip was a broken cleavis pin. Then came the water maker and the charger out of nowhere in quick succession. Why these happened then with an interval between failures I have no idea.

    Relaxing in the bay, drinking our beer and wind with ribs and chicken on the BBQ we were able to enjoy sunset in the most beautiful anchorage we have been in to date. It’s simply stunning. The only downside is sharing the place with so many other boats. Today we’ll go ashore and see the place up close before getting on and cleaning up the boat. Very much looking forward to getting our feet on the ground.

    Final words are to wish my father a Happy 80th Birthday. Keep getting better. Hope to Skype soon.

    (Now I can go and read all the blogs written by Helen and John during the trip)

    PS. It’s now the morning. We’ve had a great nights sleep. I’ve retested the charger. It works !!!!! Maybe it was a thermal overload all the time. I’ve retested the water maker. It doesn’t 🙁

  • Passage Prep

    On our last day here things went as well as could be hoped. None of the final boat checks revealed any concerns. We brought down the wind gen to investigate the rattling only to learn that it was caused by the plastic nose cone which was easy enough to fix. Helen cleaned the boat sides and the deck. I checked the props for barnacles and found only a light covering which I was able to scrape off while holding my breath.

    For a while we had a sea lion sleeping on our port transom. He/she seemed to pose no threat so he/she went undisturbed by us bar being photographed.

    We were invited over to Leu Cat for dessert late in the evening where we were plied with delicious chocolate mousses. We had a couple of hours together before heading back to Dignity for some pre passage rest.

    As John didn’t get to go ashore yesterday we’re going to go back to the small island with the path early this morning so he can take some pics of the wildlife. As soon as we return we’ll remove the outboard, fuel tank and chain from the dinghy, hoist it and depart for our next stop, Fatu Hiva, Marquesas.

    Here are all our pics from Isabella (some from the day of departure).

  • Night Out, Penguins, Seal Lions, Iguana

    We learned that a couple of cruisers were going to be playing their guitars and singing live at one of the bars ashore – the Pink Iguana. We decided to hook up with the Leu Cats and Dream Capers and go ashore shortly before 5pm. The Leu Cats showed us the way through the rocks to the dinghy dock which was not at all straight forward as the straight line trip would involve crossing a surf line and some rocks.

    We were prepared to walk the 3/4 of a mile to the bar but fortune showed and a 9 person taxi-bus appeared out of nowhere and we all caught a ride to the bar. We all arrived in time for Happy Hour and half price drinks however they weren’t serving drinks or food. We had to get our drinks from the bar next door where there was no Happy Hour. Still, we enjoyed the cool atmosphere of the place and the company of our friends and other cruisers who we met there. The bar was also quite popular with the local iguana population who used it’s deck and walls as an evening hangout.

    After a couple of beers and the music was over we walked into ‘town’ and chose a restaurant that some had noted had been busy with the locals previously. We joined tables and ate all together. After dinner we made our way back to the dinghy dock and found our way back to the boats in the pitch dark with only our dim torches and the clear heavens above us to light our way.

    This morning Helen and I have been out to see the penguin rookery and to go ashore a nearby island. We have to go early as the local tour operators shoo cruisers away from the island. Leaving at 7am, as we did, we also had the benefit of being on the island before anyone else and had the benefit of seeing the animal populations undisturbed.

    We saw about 8-10 penguins at the rookery. They were all quite small and some quite scruffy. We managed to get a few good pictures before moving on to find the dock that allowed access to the island. As we were close to low tide finding a navigable passage was tricky but we managed it. We were well rewarded with our efforts.

    The island is all lava rubble with some vegetation and a couple of small beaches. There was a made path which we kept to which circled the island. The first, and main, beach we came to was covered with sea lions. Although we kept to the path it was hard to avoid disturbing their slumber. There were a few pups and one or two larger pups still suckling. Moving on we began to see more and more iguana not realizing how many we would see towards the end of our walk. On this last section the lava field was facing the rough ocean swell and here they were festooned with iguana of all sizes, some sleeping on top of others. We took many pictures but have had to delete some as the colouring of the iguana matches the rocks so well it’s hard to see them in stills.

    Today is almost certainly our last here. It’s most likely we’ll leave for the Marquesas in the morning. The plan will be to find a balance between a good sailing angle and sailing SW until we get to around 5 degrees south of the equator at which point we’ll follow the rhumb line to Fatu Hiva.

  • Isabella

    We are now anchored outside of Villamil, Isabella. The night crossing proved to be prudent as it wasn’t long before we shook out all but one of the reefs in the sails to make some headway. For most of Helen’s watch she had no wind at all and we made only 2nm as a result of the current. As it was, we arrived shortly after 8am when the light was sufficient for us to pick our way around the huge breakers.

    As we arrived we saw a large ray swimming by and it wasn’t long before we’d seen sea lions and a penguin swimming around. We’re anchored fairly close to Leu Cat with whom we’ve already chatted on the radio. We’ve also met Steve and Portia (who did once own a Porche) from Dream Caper who are off to our port and popped by to say hello.

    We’ve already greased the ‘maintenance free’ seals and are now resting. Tonight we may go ashore for some live music performed by one of the cruisers here. We may also explore the penguin rookery and take some pics.

    INSERT_MAP

  • We are sailing

    We are on our way to Isabella. With recent reports of local winds I was not fully confident of making the short 45nm trip to Isabella and arrive by daylight so (not to the humour of the crew) I opted for a night passage. It’s easier to slow down than to speed up – unless more fuel is to be burned – and that’s not what I want to do at the beginning of our big hop west.

    We are going too fast for a dawn arrival so I’ve set a waypoint 10nm south of our destination and put two reefs in both sails. If the wind drops we can shake out the reefs over night. If we still arrive too early we can about course for a while then head in.

    We’ve heard Isabella is a really nice anchorage so we’re looking forward to our arrival and a couple of nights stay.

    I did managed some work today. I’ve replaced one bilge pump, the fresh water foot pump and the shower sump pump for which the replacement gave us so much fun back in Costa Rica. I have made notes on possible replacement parts for the removed sump pump and foot pump so they can be returned as spares at some point. The removed bilge pump looked fine so I’m going to have to assess that situation some more. When we’re at Isabella we’re going to take down and examine the wind gen which has begun to make a knocking sound. On Sail Away they had the same unit and it’s making the same sound. We’re not comfortable with the change in sound (about 3-4 weeks ago) so it’s worth having a good look.