Category: Cruiser Connections

  • Valentine’s Day

    It was an early start for Valentine’s Day as Helen and I wanted to do the hilltop hike. We’d been advised an early start was best as it would be cooler for us and for any animals which have a tendency to hide away as the day gets warmer. It’s probably worth pointing out at this point the difference in weather here. As the crow flies we’re only 50 miles from Boca Chica. Where it was dry there, it is wet and humid here. We see rain showers every afternoon, sometimes quite heavy. It is clammy all the time and the daytime temperature usually in the 90s. But at least it does get cool in the evenings. It really does feel quite different to Panama with so much change in just a short distance. This all has to be considered when off for a strenuous hike.

    We were ashore and off by 6:30am. Due to the recent time change it still feels more like 7:30am to us so it wasn’t too bad. We spent nearly 15 minutes hiking along the main road south out of town to reach the gravel track, between a soccer field and a store, which would lead us up into the hill (on top of actually) and to the communications antennae above the town.

    We were soon in a relentless climb with the humidity allowing our early morning sweat nowhere to go but into our clothes. The road was of reasonable quality, presumably to allow maintenance vehicles to reach the antennae, so at least our footing was secure.

    Along the road we would see and hear many birds. We also could hear many loud insects and see many large iridescent blue butterflies which were impossible to photograph due to their wild flight patterns.

    We soon came upon a small trickle of water beside the road. It was a godsend as it was cool and allowed us to splash some refreshing water over our faces.

    Shortly after this and perhaps due to the vicinity of fresh water we came upon a troop of small monkeys in the trees either side of the road. There were quite a few including mothers with babies. It was hard getting good pictures of them as they would be tucked away in the leaves. But sometimes they would come out and scamper around and occasionally jump from tree to tree across the road.

    The road did have a few stop offs, some with seats, where there were impressive views of the bay. At one such stop a toucan (or something similar) alighted in a tree nearby long enough for me to capture a picture. At another stop we saw another troop of the same type of monkeys as we saw earlier.

    In the end, it took us just over two hours to reach first antenna. While it was fenced off there was no gate barring entry into the compound. As we had imprecise directions to the path down I went inside to see if the path originated there. It didn’t but I was amazed at the tangle of wiring connected to the “high voltage” antenna.

    Further on, as we approached the second antenna, we noticed what we thought could be the path down the hill. We made a mental note to return here if we found nothing else more like a proper path down. We rounded and climbed the final hill to find a strange looking home which probably predated the antennae. There was a woman watching TV who we hailed and tried to get instructions to where the path started. After a lot of arm waving and incomprehensible language (on both sides I reckon) we think we confirmed our suspicions as to the path we first saw.

    This was basically the end of the road so we turned around and headed back. We did find what looked like some concrete steps going down the wrong side of the hill. I checked them out but felt our first choice was better.

    We were soon heading down the leaf strewn path, Helen havin switched her flip flops for trainers/sneakers. While the path was littered with obstacles which had to be negotiated it was clear that this was a maintained trail. Fallen trees had chips cut out for footholds and collapsed areas had freshly cut paths (albeit incredibly narrow at times) cut into the slopes we tried our best not to fall down (as in the beginning of Romancing the Stone).

    Again we would see birds in the canopy and hear many insects as we descended the hill fairly rapidly. This turned into one of my favourite hikes as the terrain was challenging but not overly and fairly varied. Most of the time we were under the rain forest canopy but at others we’d be making our way over slippery ridges.

    At times we would hear the tantalizing sounds of running water but it took us a while before we eventually made it to the side of a stream. By now we were drenched in sweat and feeling very hot. The cool water was an intense relief.

    From the stream the path soon passed a water reservoir, fed by the stream, and then turned into a gravel track which soon led into town. Having seen no one bar one chap on a motorbike and the TV lady in four hours we were greeted by barking dogs and typical street activity. Helen felt relieved we’d seen no snakes along the way.

    We made our way back towards Land Sea Services stopping off for a bit pricey fast food chicken/chips/chicken burger because needing to fill our ravenous appetites.

    Earlier, we’d dropped off our towels in the club house so we went upstairs to take a shower. We bumped into Richard and Christy whom we’d briefly met earlier. They’re on a 27ft sailing boat, Lilith, heading out into the Pacific. It turns out Richard had worked in networking for a while so I started talking about the problems Land Sea had been having and what I’d inferred so far.

    We began working the problem together. Helen, having finished her shower, took my stuff back to the boat so I could carry on with the problem. Richard had some software on his laptop which seemed to confirm my suspicions about the problems with one of the wireless servers. I was a little perplexed however why the service was now working for my laptop (every time) but for no one else’s when it hadn’t worked once the night before. I eventually performed a factory reset on the box and set it up again afresh but we still saw the same behavior. I moved my laptop to where I’d sat the night before and realized that it was all down to where you sat and that despite all that we’d done so far, nothing had really changed. I then began to wonder if there was a physical problem with the antenna. I checked it out and found the mounting loose. This made it point a few degrees off target. I tightened up the screws and we called one of the clients on the other side of the bay to test. Nothing.

    By now Richard had to leave and John had showed up for a while. We tried a few more ideas out but nothing worked. John headed off to look at nearby restaurants for the evening (as Helen and I were planning a twosome for dinner). I decided again to check the physical side of things this time following the antenna cable from the box to the antenna. I found a power injector which had been unplugged. Could it really be that simple? Turned out it was. Having reconnected this and doing some more tests we again called over the bay. They were now up and running. Problem solved. Even though it took many hours to figure out the problem was simply someone had unplugged a key part of the system I learned a lot.

    Looking at the system stats it still looks like some tweaking is required as there is a high error rate between the sides of the bay (timeouts will need to be extended). I’m hoping for our efforts we’ll be able to get our dive tanks refilled for free.

    I returned to the boat around five and we soon got ready to go out. Helen and I had a pleasant meal at Fish Hook, a nearby restaurant/marina. John had a burger and fries at the Banana Marina in the opposite direction.

    No real plans for today. We’ll take it as it comes.

  • Golfito, Costa Rica

    Whew. So far this has been a couple of days of struggles but we’re getting there.

    First – our sail from Isla Parida was fairly straight forward. Except for the last hour the winds were around 6 knots so we motor sailed the entire way. We left as planned around 3am taking 2 hour watches. We put out all four trolling lines at dawn. By the sixth fish we brought in two lines. After the eighth fish we crossed into Costa Rica and caught nothing more than a large palm frond (which we though was a fish for a a short while). We arrived just before 4 we thought although it turned out to be just before 3 as Costa Rica has a different timezone to Panama.

    We anchored near “Land Sea Services” and I immediately went ashore to get the internet password and ask about clearing in. I was told I should start the checking process straight way. I knew the offices closed at 4pm and at this stage I wasn’t yet aware I still had an hour to go. I went back to the boat to pick up the paperwork and give the password to John and Helen. Back at Land Sea services Tim, one of the owners, lent me enough money to catch a few cabs to get going.

    In the taxi I realized I had forgotten to take copies of our passports so I asked to go to a place that would make them. That being done I grabbed another taxi to take me to migracion (immigration). He took me to customs instead but I knew I was in the wrong place so I insisted on him taking to me to migracion. I made it there in time. Turned out I didn’t have a crew list which I had to hand write and my copies of the zarpe from Panama were of the wrong page. Fortunately these issues were overcome and we were now legal to go ashore. I was informed that I had to complete formalities the following day which suited me fine. They gave me several sets of paperwork to hand over to the people I had to see next.

    On the way back to the boat I went over to say hello to Tom on Everafter with whom we shared Thanksgiving and bumped into in Las Perlas. Turns out he was preparing to leave in the morning and again we’ll have to wait for a renewed social.

    Back on the boat we tried to get the internet going. I could not get our mast antenna to work with the WEP security setup shore side. Helen and John’s computers could pick up the signal directly but mine wouldn’t unless I sat on the roof of the boat. This was frustrating. I connected long enough to get my emails and learn my US credit card was not working. Nor could we access this website.

    Enough of tech issues we went ashore to eat out at the local chinese. We fed ourselves heartily, had a few beers, an ice cream from next door then headed back to the boat where we fell deep asleep.

    Then began yesterday. The long Friday. I think the boat may have drifted towards the dock a little as my laptop was connected – most of the time. I spent a couple of frustrating hours getting nowhere with the mast antenna and nowhere trying to Skype out to sort out my credit card. I decided to pack my laptop into my bag and sort things out ashore once I’d completed checking in (little did I know).

    Before all of us left the boat we moved it nearer the dock so perhaps later things would be better. We then went ashore and started the walk along the main road. After about a mile an a half we came to the block where there was a supermarket and my first stop the Cuarentena or Agricultural Quarantine. No real issues here. I filled out a little bit of paperwork and was given the details of how to pay the fee for the ‘agricultural inspection’ at the bank in the duty free zone. As far as I understand there is no inspection but it has to be paid for nevertheless.

    Next we all walked another mile or so to the duty free zone. This is a zone where folks can come twice a year and buy stuff tax free. It’s all mainly washing machines, fridges and TVs but there is some low priced booze. I went to the bank and managed to pay for the inspection getting my needed receipt. Then it was off to customs which was just outside. Customs managed to find something they didn’t like about my paperwork and things got awkward as they didn’t speak any English at all and my Spanish is still very weak. In the end they told me to go back to Land Sea Services for them to explain.

    We decided to split up. John was going to walk back, Helen would go to the supermarket for some fresh veg and fruit and I would head back to learn what I had to do and to use my laptop in the club house.

    Back at the club house I spoke to Tim. It turns out that the lady at customs seems to find something wrong with most peoples paperwork. In my case the problem was down to the corporate ownership of our boat and her needing proof that we were allowed to sail it. The only way out was to hire a lawyer to testify our proper ownership. That would have to happen after lunch as things close down from 12 to 1 here and in some cases longer. We decided to explore the duty free zone while we were there even though we had no papers to allow us to buy anything.

    I was able to get a good connection at the club house and at least was able to sort out my credit card. I also thought I’d figured out what was wrong with the website as when I checked the host my account was close to expiring but the credit card I had on file had expired. I was a bit cross because I thought they’d cut the website off too early. However, I renewed the service and hoped it would be back on line soon.

    Waiting for Helen I started browsing for other items we need Ben to bring down in a month but didn’t get too far before she returned. I dropped her off on the boat and then went to talk to some other boats nearby who had also had difficulties with customs. Their conversations reinforced the need to use a lawyer to sort things out as this was the only way they had managed to clear in.

    Back on the boat I verified that our morning boat move had indeed improved matters to the point where I could use my laptop ok so at least that was looking up in that respect. After lunch I went back ashore and spoke to Kate, the other owner of Land Sea Services, who spoke to some lawyers and explained the situation. I then walked to the lawyers, who spoke no English, and spent the next 3/4 hour getting a letter drafted using translation software for me to verify what was being written. In the end I got a letter stating I was the legitimate owner of the company of that owned the boat and that I was fully entitled to captain her.

    Next stop was the customs. The lady there accepted the letter and then buggered off for 40 minutes to do god knows what returning with my customs clearance. Next stop was the port captain who accepted the next set of paperwork and informed me that I had to return before leaving Golfito to obtain a national zarpe/clearance papers. Almost done.

    The next stop was back to the Cuerentena to hand in the proof of payment from earlier in the day. At that point we were cleared in but I had one more thing to do. Another taxi ride took me back to the duty free zone where I visited another customs office to obtain papers to allow me to visit the duty free zone today and buy things (probably wine).

    I hate paperwork at the best of times so given the 40C heat and humidity and all the walking around and different offices yesterday was not my best day on this planet.

    Back on the boat I checked out our website which was still not working (at least for us). I started raising support tickets and it turns out that the website had been down for a short while but that was a distraction as there is a general problem accessing it from Costa Rica which, apparently, we have to sort out from this end. I can still post blog entries via email but I can’t access the site directly which limits what I can do. I was able to order a couple of items off my long list.

    This morning I woke up extra early due to the time difference and attacked the website problem again. One of the tools I used to test the site was a webproxy service which accesses the site from somewhere else. This proved it worked but only had limited capabilities for free. I decided to pay $10 for 3 months of use to get past the problems we’re having but it turns out I can’t log in to my blog to make changes. Arggghhhh!

    Still, we’re now online and we’re legal. We’ve got plenty of time so perhaps I can work this out. Today we’ll go to the duty free zone as my paperwork is only valid for today. Not sure what else but I think I’ll be doing some unwinding.

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  • Rio Cacique

    Helen and I started the day with a swim around the rocks at low water. The visibility was terrible so this didn’t last long and if there were battalions of lobsters all waiting there, I certainly could not see them. At times, I couldn’t even see the end of my spear gun.

    We decided to sail south with a couple of options in mind. We passed by a reef which is listed as a good dive site. The water did not appear much clearer so we push on to the anchorage at the mouth of the Rio Cacique. Along the way the genset coughed twice. I’d cleared water (without seeing much) from the filters recently so chances are the filters were dirty.

    Arriving at the anchorage we saw three other boats – a crowd by recent standards. One of them turned out to be Curious. Their dinghy wasn’t aboard so chances were they were exploring the river. We had lunch and a read before setting off up the river ourselves. The rivers on this side respond to the tides so we had a gentle current pushing us upstream. It didn’t take too long before we ran into Steve and Trish with their three new crew coming down stream. We stopped engines and rafter up for a quick chat. We invited them over in the evening only to learn that this was their only stop in Las Perlas before heading out later in the afternoon to the Galapagos islands. John noticed one of their crew had a similar camera to his Nikon camera (the one he took the time lapse movie of our canal transit) for which he doesn’t have a battery charger. Turned out they were compatible and she had a charger aboard Curious. She agreed to charge up John’s batteries so we about turned and headed back to Dignity to get things together leaving the river trip until today. Just before leaving I’d downloaded a seven day GRIB file (wind data) covering Panama, Costa Rica out to the Galapagos. I put this on a memory stick in case it was useful to Steve.

    When they arrived (they were slower coming back due to more in the dinghy) we handed over John camera batteries and the memory stick as it turned out Steve could use the data. I then set about changing the fuel filters with John’s help and then, while in the mood, cleaned all the barnacles off the speed log which has been showing zero speed through the water for a few days.

    Steve came back just before they departed with the batteries and the stick. They’re heading west two months before us but he’s keen on making the Pacific Puddle Jump party in Tahiti as are we so hopefully we’ll meet up there.

    Only other event was yet another local boat coming by. This one had four guys in it smelling of alcohol and toking on a fat herbal joint asking for gasoline. They got none from me and after asking for a few other things I gave them a cup of water. They left at high speed – no apparent concern for fuel consumption.

    So we’re staying here another day to do fully do the river trip. It was worth the wait to get John’s batteries charged and we’re in no hurry. While I like my plans (as they force us to look at our options and learn what we need to learn) they are always subject to change. Against the plan I made up for Panama / Costa Rica We are already two or three days ahead of schedule due to skipping areas we didn’t want to stop at and not using a spare day. Where we’ll use this I don’t know.

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  • Isla Contadora, Las Perlas

    With the boat fully fueled (including an extra 40 gallons in jerry cans) and our passports properly stamped we aimed to wake up nice and early and sail to Las Perlas. After all, for the last week we’ve had a near on constant 15-20 knot wind from the north. What could go wrong?

    At 6am there was no wind. There was not much at 7am. Approaching 8am we decided to go for it. The anchor windlass breaker was the next thing to die after the wind. No problem – we raised it by hand. No matter that the spares recently received had the wrong sized lugs, we weren’t going to hang around another day. Then the chart plotter froze. Not once, but twice, requiring power cycling to restore functionality. Minor stuff really.

    Soon we were off motor sailing in 8-10 knots of wind. We put four lines off the back having heard the fishing was good. The wind was lousy for our standard rig so it was an opportune time to crank out the Code Zero that had been in for repair. No problems this time. Up it went and it looked good. We were soon doing 4-5 knots in 8-10 knots of wind. For a while we turned the motors off. But the wind was tired of blowing for the last two weeks and died down to nothing at one point. We used the electric motors on batteries to assist us keeping a half decent ETA to Isla Contadora running the genset to recharge from time to time. The last two hours we ran the genset continuously to get us in.

    On the upside we caught a 5.5lb tuna/jack. Having let John watch my land and prepare the previous catch (the barracuda on the way to San Blas) it was his turn. Tuna (maybe it’s some sort of jack are nowhere near as smelly so it was a good baptism for him. We’re going to eat it tonight. We’re having trouble properly identifying it – if any readers know for sure, please comment and let us know. We’ve heard that the jacks that look a bit like this but have spots on the belly aren’t so good to eat. In fact, we caught one of those too – about 3lb – which we let go. We’ll find out later I guess.

    After arriving and anchoring in over 50ft of water I set about the windlass breaker. I discovered that the spares we’d ordered were correct. Our had an extension lug screwed over the top of the smaller lugs. Once I figured this out the replacement went ok. The GPS worked it’s gremlins out. I’m pretty sure it was down to the sheer number of AIS signals in an around the end of the canal. It looks like there is a repeater somewhere because we could see ships all through the canal and around Colon. Now that they’ve all gone things are good.

    We also ran into Everafter who are here but leaving soon – before we can get together. Perhaps another time as they’re heading roughly our way including up to Costa Rica.

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  • Off to Las Perlas

    We have our Code Zero back from repairs. Stamped passports should back in this morning allowing us to stay in Panama for another month but leave without checking out again. We’re scheduled to load on fuel at 8:45. Hopefully we’ll be off straight after.

    Yesterday was our final provisioning – the biggest one to date. We hired the same taxi driver who had membership at the local Pricesmart. We came back with his vehicle absolutely stuffed and us squeezed in on laps and whatever space was left.

    In the evening we invited Tim and Ruth from Kamara aboard. I’d met them both at one time or another. They’ve sailed down from San Fransisco and have some experience of Costa Rica they were prepared to share. All very helpful.