In the afternoon I filled the dinghy fuel tank and went to pick up the plate. My design was deliberately overkill as the cost and pain of fixing the wooden step, should it break, would be far greater than this fix. I needed to screw 30 screws in from under the step. Each screw would need a hole to be drilled from underneath. Without being able to remove the step this was looking to be a pain to do. I’d bumped into John from Sea Mist at the fuel counter. He didn’t have a tool that would help. On the way back with my new plate and screws I stopped by Leu Cat to see if they had any tools to help. They did were happy to lend the tool. I hadn’t held out much hope but it sure pays to ask.

Back on the boat I fixed the plate. Now the step feels firm and we can remove the books to protect it.

After returning the tool to Leu Cat we made arrangements with them and with the Sea Misters for a another last meal out together tonight.

Apart from a brief stop to replace a flat tire we made it to Lautoka in good time. We’d asked to be dropped off at the customs office and be picked up in town later on. It turned out we needed to be in the customs office at the wharf (obvious really) rather than the one in town so we walked the approx mile between the two. We’d been advised by many to tell them our boat was nearby when asked where it was. I find it difficult to tell a bold lie so when it came down to it I said we were in Denaru. No problem. Soon we were out with coastal clearance for just about everywhere around here so we’re sorted on that front.

Next stop was immigration to extend our visas. It turned out it was in the unmarked building next to the first customs office we’d been to. So we walked back. It took a while and few Fiji dollars to get our extension. They required proof of our ability to sustain ourselves while here. In the end they were satisfied by taking copies of our credit cards and conceding on the need for copies of statements.

So now, unless we decide to go back to Suva or something like that, we have no more paperwork to do until we leave Fiji.

Next we walked around town. I bought a couple of shirts. The experience was a lot more pleasant than in Nadi where the shop keepers campaign heavily for your custom as you walk down the street. In Lautoka there was none of that. On the downside, the supermarkets with international produce were fewer and less well stocked than Nadi.

By the time we’d eaten lunch we were already a little late for our rendezvous. We didn’t lose our taxi as we’d bumped into him a couple of times already. We picked up a few more provisions before heading back to Denaru and the boat.

We didn’t do a great deal more in the afternoon. John from Sea Mist popped by having just arrived in the anchorage. He’d been invited to the evening out with the Leu Cats. That was great as this may be our last opportunity to see them for a while at best, if ever at worst.

The evening went well. We met up at Lulu’s having a round of cocktails together followed by dinner at Indigo’s – an Indian Restaurant – where we briefly bumped into the Jaranas who were just leaving. The evening was excellent and somehow we managed to stay out quite late, at least for us.

At the dinghy dock we said our emotional Au Revoirs. It’s never goodbye as one never knows how or when we’ll meet up again.

The answer to that is probably here and today as the weather has turned out crap and looks to stay that way today and tomorrow. We’re not moving on and when we do it looks like it’s out west.

Having saved a few instances of the signal strength of the nearby stations I compared readings. They were not so good. However, I was not comparing like with like. I went up a third time to switch antennas (using the spare one I had for earlier use) and to position it vertically. Back down again I ran some more tests. Some of the stations were coming through more strongly but most were coming through weaker.

My guess is that proximity to the mast and spreaders is having more of a negative effect than the elevation is helping. This suggests that the mast placement, at least where I had it, is not so good after all. I went up a fourth time to retrieve the Bullet2HP and newer antenna and put it back where it had been, hanging from the job sheet away from the mast, to retest. The earlier, better, signal strengths were again being reported.

A fifth trip up the mast was then in order to remove the old network card, antenna and network cable.

In the afternoon, using the long network cable now retrieved from the mast, I had Helen walk about the top of the boat with the antenna/Bullet2HP while I compared signal strengths. Dangling from the jib sheets turns out to be one of the better places. The best was far aft above the bimini. This would suggest a permanent mount back there somewhere. This will require some thought. For now we can just stick the antenna out through the forward hatch and hang it on the jib sheet. We can even close the hatch over the cable if it rains so it’s ok for now.

Later in the afternoon we went for a walk around the local area popping into a couple of the beach front hotels to look around. They were nice, if you’re into that sort of thing, I guess but not our cup of tea.

The Leu Cats showed up in the afternoon in their dinghy having just arrived in the anchorage. They’re shaping up for a departure for Vanuatu this coming week which will mean more goodbyes/au revoirs. We’ve agreed to meet up for dinner ashore Monday evening.

Now it is Monday we plan to go to Lautako to properly clear into the western district. We’ll have a look around town before heading back to Nadi and doing our main provisioning for the next month. Tomorrow we may well be out of here. We like the idea of going round to Treasure Island and waiting there for the weather to settle before heading out to the western islands.

We were soon ashore to register ourselves here at Musket Cove. I felt like we’re back in the Caribbean. Manicured marinas, resorts, boat loads of tourists and not so clear waters. This is not the Fiji we’ve grown to love over the last few months. There are merits. I’m sure we’ll get used to it. I make it sound bad. It’s not. It’s quite beautiful. It’s just a bit of a culture shock.

We were soon registered and, having made earlier calls, found out Anne and John’s delayed luggage was arriving before midday. We decided to have lunch at the coffee bar while we waited for the ferry to arrive. Arrive it did and Anne and John’s luggage was duly collected.

After lunch we returned to the boat and so began Xmas with the unpacking of our goodies. Bilge pumps don’t sound exciting but in the right circumstances they can be. During the unpack we each had a beer. This was our undoing as we all conked out for an hour or two.

Later, Anne and John took the kayak to explore. While they were out I had our dive tanks filled and topped up the dinghy fuel. While I was out and about I bumped into Steve and Portia from Dreamcaper (not seen since Tahiti last year) aboard Leu Cat (not seen since New Zealand). It was nice to have a chat and quick catch up.

In the evening we went for the curry buffet at the resort bistro. It was pretty good but not the best. With all we could eat we ate all we could and were quite replete by the time we headed back to Dignity.

Although before 9pm we were all pooped. Our bunks beckoned for a sleepful but hot and sweaty night.

This morning I have begun the job of uploading our recent photos. I haven’t finished and I won’t be able to get round to putting the albums into previous posts just yet. For now, you can find the recent uploads on our photos page.

Next task was to head for Opua to sell the car back to Phil from Cars for Cruisers. I had an agreement with Rob and Ruth from Albatross III to head up to Opua too and give me a ride back. Just before leaving we bumped into a young lady from the NE US whose on a traveling trip and was looking for passage up to Fiji. We offered to take her up to Opua and back to investigate things there and learn a bit more about making what she was trying to do work.

On arriving in Opua I let Lauren off to explore the area and agreed to meet up at the Fish and Chip shop at noon where I’d promised to buy lunch for everyone for helping out. The deal with Phil went through smoothly and soon I was walking away with a cashable check.

While waiting for Lauren to show up I bumped into Andy from Zephyrus which was a pleasant surprise. We chatted for a while and I asked about people looking for crew. He had a good lead and shared it with Lauren when she found us. About 12:30 Rob and Ruth turned up having seen some friends. Unfortunately the Fish and Chip shop in Opua had closed down so we headed off to Pahia for the banks and shops there. Half way there I realize I’d left my GPS unit somewhere so we headed back finding it with Phil.

Leaving the others to look around I first went to Westpac to cash the check using my passport to prove my identity. She had to call Phil to verify the check was ok to cash and he approved with the caveat I owed him a GPS unit. She found the explanation of his remark quite funny. My next stop was the ANZ bank to deposit most the cash keeping enough to pay for our new kayak.

With all the financials handled I found the others and bought all Fish and Chips on the waterfront which turned out to be overfilling but delicious.

Rob took us north out of Pahia for a different route back to Whangarei. A few miles out of town I realized I didn’t have our folder containing our boat papers and passports. Not again. So back into town we went. I checked first at the Westpac. The teller grinned hugely and went to the safe to retrieve my passport. I found the folder in the ANZ where I’d left it. Where was my head???? I checked to make sure it was still in the right place physically. I think my brain had already set sail.

No more mishaps beset us as we traveled back to Whangarei. Rob helped me collect the kayak which we placed on the boat. Helen had spent the day making a clean boat immaculate for the evening’s party. By now there was not much time left. I performed a few small jobs around the boat before showering and soon after folks began to show.

All in all we had the pleasure of welcoming the crew from Albatross III, Attitude, Blue Penguin, Boree, Callisto, Clara Katherine, Division II, El Regalo, Imagine, Jackster, Leu Cat, Marquesa, Proximity, Sail Away, Scream, Sea Mist, Sidewinder, Stray Kitty, Tahina, True Companions and Tyee along with one or two marina neighbours. That was about forty people at once. It was a great test of our through hulls as we were down about 6-9 inches in the water. We didn’t sink.

This morning we woke fairly early and after doing last minute internetty things we dropped of our key to the shower block and headed out. As we headed down the river the winds were light and behind us. And cold. We motored on batteries alone for about 30 mins before turning on the generator. Near the river mouth we caught sight of True Companions ahead of us and called them on the radio to greet them.

As we rounded the heads we hit a dead patch and used the opportunity to raise the new main. We crossed our fingers hoping for wind as we really wanted to see how our new sails would perform. We didn’t have to wait too long and soon we were in winds that were to vary between 10-20 knots as we headed up the coast. We were gobsmacked by the improved boat performance. Before the boat speed would fade below about 12 knots under main and jib. Now she was achieving above 1/2 wind speed all the way down to 9 knots on the beam. We’ve never seen it so good.

We have found a couple of issues. The reef points on the new main are higher up than before and now the 1st reef only has a turn of spare line at the winch which is not enough to reef on the fly. We also have new modes of vibration on the luff of the main which we need to figure out how to handle. Apart from that everything seems to be in amazing shape. It feels like we have a new boat.

Our original plan had us making our way up the coast in smaller steps. With reduced wind tomorrow and nasty northeasterlies forecast for Friday we’re aiming to cover as much distance as we can today and complete the trip to the Bay of Islands tomorrow where we can find shelter from any type of wind. Our goal for today is the Whangamumu Bay which we visited last November.

We’ve now settled into a pleasant sail up the coast putting on and taking off our warm clothes as the sun goes in and out. We have about a knot of counter current but we’re doing well against it. We even have a line out for fish but nothing caught yet. We’ve shed the land life and are back on the water.

Everything worked fine.  I gave the ok and lines were thrown aboard and we back out into the river.  The tide was already ebbing but the river was flat.  I don’t have any written records of past performance but our speed through the water was significantly better than we’ve ever seen before.  One would hope so having had the bottom painted, the props tuned, the couplings changed and the motors realigned.  This makes us all the more eager to see how things have improved with our new, larger headsail and roach improved main.

We edged into the marina as light was falling and tied off to the dock.  I was not given permission to crack a beer until I’d connected up to the water supply.  We dined lavishly on fried egg sandwiches and a glass of wine before heading to the showers.  I took a brutal scrubbing brush to tackle the yard grime embedded into my feet.  I think I’ll need to grow new skin before by feet fully return to their proper colour.

So does that mean we can now relax for a bit. Not really. Helen’s genetically encoded war on dirt is poised for full expression. With the infinite battalions of yard dust out of the picture a new balance can and will be obtained. I have one final round of shaft seal inspections to perform and then I have to put in place the final two batteries. We’ll transfer our the remaining diesel in our cans to the main tanks to give us the chance of deferring a fuel stop until we can buy duty free. There are other things to do. I’m just not thinking about them right now.

A little further ahead we plan to take the car up to Opua on Tuesday. The Tahina’s have offered us the use of their car for the day. The plan is we’ll drive to Opua in convoy with the Leu’s and return in the one car. On Wednesday we’ll head down the river and on Thursday perform sea trials with the new sails and perform checks on the water maker. From then on it’s either up the coast to the Bay of Islands or straight up to Fiji depending on the weather patterns. Ironically there’s a chance of a weather window to Fiji 3-4 days from now but that may be just a little too soon for us. I’ll be watching this one closely.

For now, here again is the photo album containing a snapshot of a subset of what we’ve been up to.

• I remove temporary batteries I hooked up sitting over the starboard shaft access ready for the techs planned visit.
• I made my (hopefully) last trip up the mast to file down the epoxy I’d applied to the oversized countersunk holes.
• The engine tech arrived and told us the second shaft seal was now not expected to arrive from overseas until late May and suggested we try and order one from the US.  I nearly tore his head off.  We then came up with the idea of using the new one and the best of the old ones which is still pretty good.
• I cleaned and sanded the prop shafts one more time.
• The engine tech ran into a new problem as the newly machined couplings had been machined in error and needed some more work.  Despite all this, all is expected to be complete on this front by Wednesday.
• Replaced a bent clip on the dinghy hauling lines.
• Inventoried genset oil to determine how much more to buy in.
• Stored around 14 boxes of wine away from the world.
• Laid out storm anchor.  This is one of those jobs we should have done a long time ago.  We’ve had a second hand para anchor and a brand new set of bridles/lines for nearly two years and we’ve never taken them out of the bags to inspect them, let alone test them at sea.  We removed both sets of lines from the bags and worked out how we would set them from the boat at sea.  We removed the parachute from it’s bag and found it intact but covered in mould.  We hoisted it up the mast for a couple of hours in the afternoon to dry out.  It will have to go up there again today.  Also spent ages trying to untangle the lines to the parachute.  It’s better but not complete.
• Collected our finished windows.  I took them round to Leu Cat who are considering doing the same project.  They were quite impressed.  There I picked up our two clamshell scoops which had arrived from the US.  Back at the boat Helen was delighted.  We put them into the window frames and checked them out through the plastic still wrapping the boat.  They looked good but we really need to see them with the plastic off.
• Bottom painting progressed.  Second primer followed by first coat of anti-foul went on.

During the day it was nice to meet John and Lucy from Tyee who’ve just returned from Canada.  Their boat has been in the yard while they’ve been home.  With envy we saw Emily Grace splash/launch.

In the evening it was a pleasure to eat out with Mike and Anne from Callisto at our preferred curry house in Whangarei.  Like us, they like their curries hot so we were able to share five dishes amongst the four of us.  Delicious.

The weather forecast for the rest of the week remains good and all signs point towards a Friday afternoon launch for us.  Today the second layer of anti-foul goes on as will a third application on all our leading edges.  The engine tech should have our prop shafts reconnected and we may even have the hull clean started.  A lot to do yet but it all looks doable.