The bus was the typical open window (ie, no window) kind which offered a cool breeze and fantastic views of the coast and the villages we passed through. After an hour or so we reached the village of Lavena where we paid to enter the Bouma National Heritage Park and for a couple of guides to take us on the trail.

The trail took about hour and a half to reach the waterfalls at the end. The pace was slow to allow chances to listen to the guide tell us about a few of the things we could see and to take photos. The final section of the path took us up to a shaded spot on a river where we stopped for a swim and to eat lunch. From this spot we could see one of two waterfalls a little way up the river. We swam up to the bowl beneath this waterfall where we were able to see a second waterfall pouring into the same bowl which was not previously visible. Of our group I was the only one to climb the slippery rocks behind our guide and slide down the slick chute created by the second waterfall.

After our swim we rested and had a bite to eat before following the trail back to the starting point. Our return was a quite a bit quicker as we had no need to stop so often. By now school was out and we were greeted by happy, smiling children. It’s wonderful to see the innocence of small kids not having had to be scared off by the boogeyman of strangers.

We headed back to Matei in two minivans and decided to eat at one of the local restaurants. The food turned out to be delicious. Helen and I ended up on Kilkea after the meal where we were plied with beverages that are still working their way out of my head.

On the maintenance front we progress slowly. Permissions have been sought and now fully granted to have the Lagoon techs perform the work in the Norsand yard. We’re close to knowing if/when/where the replacement charger will be sent and we should soon have the details of the sex-change worked out.

Having made the decision to slow down and spend the whole season here in Fiji there is no stress involved in staying put for a while in one place. We’re really enjoying the beauty and tranquility of Taveuni as well as this breezy anchorage. Sharing time with our friends here makes the experience priceless. So all is good.

Even better, we’ve received confirmation from our good friends, Anne and John, that they will be with us early August. Much to look forward to.

While there, six local officials/policemen came out in a fishing skiff to inspect the paperwork of the boats here. We came to the conclusion they were bored and wanted to see the boat show in the anchorage. Only one fellow did any paperwork / inspection and all were very friendly and keen to look around.

After this unexpected interlude Helen and I went out to snorkel one of the nearby coral patches. On the outside of the reef the water was fairly clear and the coral diverse and abundant. The fish were small but colourful and we managed to see a beautiful but dangerous (to the reef) crown of thorns starfish.

After our swim we went over to the lobster pot. The only thing in it was the extremely stinky fish frame which had now collapsed and got stuck in pieces in the netting. It was a disgustingly smelly job to clean it all up. It took me a while to get the awful smell off my fingers.

In the evening we had our public anniversary party. Along came the Borees, Callistos, Dreamtimes, Gerimars, Jaranas, Kilkeas, Tahinas and True Companions for a fun evening. Bert from Boree made us all smile with a bit of a speech presenting Helen and I with hats they’d made earlier in the day appropriate for the celebration.

Quite a few of us are interested in going down the coast to the Bouma National Park, some to see the falls we’ve already seen and some to do the coastal trail. So it looks like today a crowd of us will go down on the public bus returning by taxi. Should be fun.

Viani Bay is famous for it’s encircling reef – Rainbow Reef. Famous for it’s clear water making for excellent diving and snorkeling. As we approached we noticed Jackster exiting the reef so we hailed them. It turned out they had the Tahinas and Garimars aboard and were all off diving with the local guide, Jack Fisher. We asked if we could follow them to their first spot and upon consultation with Jack it was deemed ok.

We were soon anchored on a shallow patch on the outside of the reef and then into the dinghy with our gear following the divers up the reef. We were in 20-100s+ feet of clear blue water with a health reef below us. We had the company of a lone white tipped reef shark and thousands of other fish. At one point we saw a turtle. We had intended to snorkel the reef so this lucky opportunity got us in and wet without having to sort out a guide.

Helen and I made the swim all the way back to the boat getting a little stung at the end by jelly fish larvae. A little irritating but ok once you know it calms down fairly quickly. Judy and Colin stayed near our dinghy allowing the current to take them down the reef.

Back on the boat we headed into Viani Bay and anchored near Stray Kitty where we quickly readied lunch. We shared a bottle of wine with lunch setting the stage for a sleepy afternoon. Later in the afternoon our guests headed off in the kayak. It was funny seeing Judy doing all the paddling for a while while Colin messed with his fishing line. I would never get away with that with Helen.

In the evening Helen cooked up another portion of the mahi we’d caught on the way to Fiji – quite delicious.

Now that we’ve snorkeled the reef here we have the opportunity to press eastwards. We like the idea of reaching Matagi to the east of Taveuni and staying there a couple of nights before heading (and perhaps even sailing) back west to the tip of Taveuni and going for some hikes ashore.

I’ve managed to upload four albums of photos for my regular readers a short trip back through the last few entries will reveal them.

The weather was none too brilliant at first but by around 8am the light rains had eased. Frank from Tahina was keen to go ashore so he picked us up in his higher powered dinghy and the five of us went ashore. As the tide was going out we left his dinghy about half way up the mangrove tunnel and waded the rest of the way before climbing the muddy track to the ‘main’ road.

We climbed up to Arthur and Sandra’s house and we introduced the newcomers to them. Again we were invited in for tea and biscuits and a long chat with our hosts. As we already knew the way to the hot spring we were allowed to head off there ourselves. Arthur offered to share some cava with us on our return which we accepted.

As a result of the previous nights rains the river was a little deeper than before and the trail certainly more muddy. We reached the hot springs and all found our spots alternating between hot and cold as we did before. On the way back we first went down to the dinghy to move it further out as we could see the area already drying out. We then climbed back up to Arthur’s and were treated to a sharing of cava. We sat around a mat and Arthur prepared the cava in front of us and then shared it with us. A single coconut cup was used, filled then passed to each of us in turn. As each of us drank we’d clap three times. Not quite sure if we were doing it right it was still fun to do. The cava in Fiji tastes a lot better than that in Tonga which tastes a lot more like mud. After each round we’d pause for a few minutes before another round was handed out.

Soon we all had tingling lips and tongues and were feeling somewhat relaxed. Concerned about the tide we bade our farewells. I’d offered to share some music with them as they used their phones for listening. I took a memory chip from one of their phones with me back to the boat. Unfortunately it was of a kind I could not access despite all the electronic junk I had aboard.

After lunch Judy and Colin took the dinghy out to the pass to snorkel. They had a good time seeing a lot of fish. Through the afternoon three more boats came in including True Companions and Boree. I went over to each and shared what I’d learned of the place. As I was planning to go back ashore one final time to return the memory chip I offered to show them the way.

This resulted in the five of us heading ashore around 4pm. I’d warned them about the mud but I think there was some surprise as to the actual amount. We made our way up to the house and I introduced the next set of cruisers. They all headed inside while I returned the memory chip. It turned out their other phone had a chip I could access and as Bert and Ingi were definitely coming back I took this chip back to the boat. I was able to put a few songs on it. I also had a similar memory chip spare so I filled that with similar music and bagged that up with the original.

Bert and Ingi showed up later to pick them up and we invited them aboard for beer and wine. We shared their company up until dinner. They’d had a good time ashore. They’d learned one thing from Arthur which is worth knowing if you’re reading this blog and intend to come to the bay and visit the hot spring. Quite a few cruisers in the past have gone into the village of Bagasau and given sevusevu there then walked over Arthur’s land without permission to visit the hot spring. Arthur won’t do anything about it as he doesn’t want to confront folks but we all feel that if you’re coming to visit something on someone’s land they should be formally asked and permission obtained via the local custom of sevusevu.

Once dinner was ready we turfed Bert and Ingi off the boat. By now the skies were totally clear, the stars were out – a fine evening was had.

The current plan for today is to head east to Viani Bay. That thinking is based on yesterday’s weather forecast. This may all change following today’s which I’ll get when sending this blog entry out.

The bus eventually came. It was a fine air conditioned affair. Air conditioned in terms of it having no windows. Fine being a bit of an exaggeration. The road was more of a dirt track with potholes. The driver seemed to know all of them and avoided them deftly. The going was slow at best and descended to a crawl when climbing hills. At one point we stopped for 5-10 minutes where locals were selling food. Helen and I shared a warm potato roti.

It took two hours to get to Savusavu by the bus but we loved it as it gave us a chance to take in the local scenery. The majority of the journey was through very wild bush which gradually became more cultivated as we approached town. Towards the end we passed a number of small resorts no doubt accessed via the airport in Savusavu.

Judy and Colin had already arrived by the time we made it to the Copra Shed Marina where we’d agreed to meet. They’d had an uneventful journey over. We walked the high street and back before sitting down for lunch joined by Mike, Anne and their daughter from Callisto. After lunch we went shopping for fresh provisions. At the market we just about met everyone we knew still in Savusavu.

Back at the marina Judy and Colin sorted out their flight from Taveuni a week from now. I checked at the office and our Lau group permit had arrived. I had to pay for it and extend our coastal permit from customs. I ran down to the other end of the high street to the appropriate bank. As luck would have it one of the customs ladies (the one who originally cleared us in) was there and agreed to sort us out there and then. I paid in the permit fees and requested a copy which I gave to the customs lady. She agreed to add this to our permit and extend our time out. Now we are set to explore the Lau Group for 2-3 weeks. This works well as they are off to the east of us and we are heading that way right now. Being up wind it’s nice to avoid repeating the hard leg of the trip east.

By the time I returned our taxi to Bagasau had arrived. They tried to up the pre-agreed charge on me but I held my ground. Helen and I popped round the corner to a doctor to pick up some eye drops before returning to pick up Judy and Colin who now had their reservation.

All was set for our return trip to Bagasau. The trip back was quicker but not without event. At one point where there were roadworks and the road essentially mud, a truck had got stuck in the main mud of the road. The bus in front of us tried to go around it and also got stuck. The workers had to use a cable attached to a digger to haul the bus out and then the truck. Our taxi driver made it through the mud. Only just, it seemed. It all seemed quite normal though.

When we were eventually dropped off by our hole in the hedge which would lead to the dinghy the taxi driver got stuck turning the vehicle around. Judy, Colin and I helped by giving him a push. Unfortunately Judy got sprayed with mud. At that time we were joined by Wayne, one of the younger Pickerings returning from school. He thought it was hilarious, as it was if you can see the funny side.

Wayne joined us as we made our way over the barbed wire and through the wet grass to the dinghy chatting to Helen as we went. When we reached the dinghy we gave him some bread we’d picked up from town to take up to Sandra and Arthur. We managed to pile all of us and all the luggage into the dinghy and made our way back to the boat. The timing was good as the water was only just deep enough to get out. Any earlier and we may have had to wait.

On the boat Judy changed and we soon settled down to G&Ts and a relaxing evening with BBQ chicken for dinner. We were all tired well before cruisers midnight (9pm) and crashed for a good nights sleep.

Today we’ll go ashore one more time. We have a few extra things for Arthur and Sandra and we’ll take Judy and Colin to the hot pool. The Tahina’s are likely to come too. We’ll stay here for one more evening before moving somewhere further east.

We made our way back to Arthur and Sandra’s place where we were able to wash ourselves. We were invited in for tea again which we welcomed. We chatted for a while. Albert mentioned they may be going fishing that evening and I asked if could go along. That was ok. They asked if I had any small fish to use as bait. This was a good excuse to get my spear gun out so I offered to bag a few in the afternoon.

Next Arthur took us for a walk down through their land then up to some properties they look after for others which had some excellent views over the harbour. From there we walked back to their house then onto the hot springs some distance away at the other end of their land. This involved a 20 minute rock hopping walk up a river. The hot springs were a natural up welling of constantly bath water hot water coming out of the ground. Rocks had been placed to form a couple of pools which then emptied into the cold river. It was nice alternating from one to the other. When the hot pool overcame us we sat in the river which at first gave us a cold shock but was soon very refreshing. When the chill from the river set in the hot pool warmed us up nicely. Arthur left us here so we had the place to ourselves. We merged with nature. We finished off in the cold river which kept us deliciously cool for the return trip down the river.

We made our way back to Dignity to have a brief lunch and relax. We discover the tide was right out and had to lug the kayak out of the mangroves over the mud. Had we brought the dinghy in this would have been very hard work. By the time we were back on the boat we were quite exhausted.

I roused myself mid-afternoon to go and catch the fish I’d promised. I could have been quite happy to do nothing at that point but I felt I should follow through. The patch I chose was a little murky and the fish more than a little skittish. They all seemed to have an innate understanding of what a spear gun looked like and did. I eventually bagged one fish. I tried using that as bait to bring others in but that didn’t work. I stuck this small fish on the end of the gun to disguise it. That sort of worked allowing me to shoot two really small fish. With these three embarrassingly small trophies I headed home. While in the water Garimar had arrived in the anchorage and Tahina was on their way in. By the time I was showered and in my hammock to relax, Tahina passed our stern and we waved our greetings.

Later I popped over to Tahina to share what we learned about the shore access and what we’d done. While I was there I saw Arthur coming out on their fishing boat so I rushed back and collected my hand line, hooks and bait. In the boat with him was his niece Mona (who we’d briefly met earlier) and Laura from the next village. We ended up out on the reef handlining for fish for about two and half hours. We chatted at times and often cajoled the fish to take our bait. Mona caught two fish and Laura one which was small and used for more bait. Arthur and I had no luck. Laura spent about 10 minutes with a large fish on her line which she eventually lost. They blamed our poor luck on the weather which wasn’t good. We were drenched with rain on a couple of occasions and lightening flashed in the mountains from time to time. For some reason the fish don’t feed when it’s raining. Perhaps they don’t want to get wet.

This morning we’re taking the bus into Savusavu to meet our friends from Napier in NZ and bring them back to the boat this afternoon. They have no idea how they’re going to have to get to the boat. We think we’ll leave the dinghy where we first landed by the river and find a way through the nearby property. If that fails we’ll cross the same barbed wire fence that we did on our first day here.

It turned out there was a fund raiser for a women’s community hall. Arts and crafts from villages around the island were on display and for sale. We were considered invited guests and given a shaded place to sit together. Frank from Tahina showed up as did the Dreamtimes and Stray Kitties. After some speeches we were taken to see the local craft work before sitting down again for a hot drink, cakes and to watch the dancing.

As we’ve crossed the Pacific the dancing has always very interesting, in particular how it has changed from region to region. Invariably the dancing is performed by young ladies and men. The male dancing is always warlike and the female dancing expressive and alluring. East of Tonga the dancing always involved a lot of vigourous bottom wiggling. In Tonga and NZ the female dancing was less vigorous and more nuanced. Today we were treated to toothless old ladies dancing randomly on their feet and a little more organized sitting down on a mat. However, they were hilarious at times making gestures that made the local crowd roar with infectious laughter and us in turn. The troup of senior citizens danced through intermittent rain and ended up inviting a few of us to dance with them.

Then the heavens opened big time turning the field into a pond. We sat through the deluge under our shelter. Once the skies cleared we went to the market to pick up some curios and some kava for future sevusevu ceremonies before heading back to the boat.

We relaxed for much of the afternoon. I spent a little while researching alternate advertising possibilities for the website and have kicked off a couple of new applications. For my regular readers here is my request. If you see ads reappear on the site, please only click on them if you have genuine interest in the product or service being advertised. The ad services are ultra sensitive to behaviors that may be construed as attempts to generate false revenue so clicking on ads to give us beer money will ultimately have the opposite effect. The good news is I’ve learned a little more about all this which can only be a good thing. Later in the afternoon I emptied another couple of gerry cans into the main tank before refilling those two and storing all the filled containers away.

In the evening we joined the Tahinas aboard Stray Kitty for grilled Mahi Mahi which they’d caught on the way in. We ended up staying quite late.

We’re beginning to feel very much partied out and are looking forward to taking a break from Savusavu. We’re looking at a Sunday departure so we’ll sort out our coastal clearance today.

Next, Paul and I went ashore to do our various chores. I took an empty propane tank via Taxi to the Fiji Gas station out of town. It took a while for them to figure out how to fill our tank as their primary delivery device couldn’t fit past the plastic handles on our can. However, a means to cross fill from one of their other tanks and we were sorted. I took details of the taxi driver as we have a soon to be needed ride from Fawn Harbour to the east of us back into town.

Meeting up again with Paul we officially disembarked him from the boat and I paid our customs overtime fees. Paul was now officially, though not yet physically off the boat. Paul had sorted out his PADI course and had his books and DVDs to study. We went back to the boat to relax. At least Helen and I did. Paul got busy packing, cleaning his room then studying.

Just before 1pm I received a call from Albert from the Courts store in town who had a tech guy coming. He asked me to be at the Copra Shed in 10 minutes to sort out our internet connection as the tech guy was in town. I quickly packed my laptop and bit n pieces and was off. In the bar I met the Kilkeas who were also waiting for him. It turns out Albert had brought the tech guy over on his day off. Can’t imagine that ever happening at home. We soon had our USB stick working on the internet via the telecoms service. The main problem is that right now the data service is only GPRS which is incredibly slow. In a months time it should go 3G and we’ll see an immediate improvement. It’s incredibly painful using the internet at these speeds and everything takes time. But we’re rich in time right now so that’s less of an issue.

After testing the service by downloading my emails and a quick scan of the news (end of the world postponed and all that) I bought a chip off the guy there and then with the promise to do the official registration paperwork at the store today.

It was now time to take Paul ashore. I returned to the boat and dropped off my gear. Back ashore we walked with Paul to his hotel on the side of the hill as we wanted to explore a nearby path. From the hotel public balcony over the bay we had a great view of the anchorage. At this point Helen spotted something awry. Tahina was adrift and heading out of the channel. We could see folks going to the rescue. I was prepared to run down the hill and join in but it looked like I’d be too late to make a difference so instead I tried to contact Frank to let him know of the problem. It turns out he was in town trying to sort out his phone and had the chip out or something so he couldn’t be contacted. All was well in the end but apparently it was a close shave with a near miss on the reef. It was a fine example of the cruising community in action. We took some pictures from our vantage point which we’ll give to Frank and Karen later today.

After saying goodbye to Paul we set off to find the alleged path up to a viewpoint. We succeeded in wading through lots of long grass but didn’t get anywhere in particular so headed back into town.

Heading back to Dignity we ended up on Kilkea instead and were plied with G&Ts. By now the news of Tahina was spreading and was much the topic of discussion. We understood that the Borees were very much involved with the rescue. John and Pam from Passages soon joined us but eventually we had to tear ourselves away as we needed to shower then go ashore to eat.

Our plan for the evening was to eat at a nearby Chinese on our own. The Borees soon turned up with the same idea and we shared the table with them. The food turned out to be mediocre and the service lousy but the company great. Bert and Ingi persuaded us to come back to their boat for a while. We did not get back till very late.

Back on the boat we were tired but I could not resist catching up on some of our emails. We’d received a great message from Ben about his new job and wanted to reply to that. I’d also learned that our google ads account had been suspended due to inappropriate clicking. No details were provided and seeing as this happened on the day we arrived in Fiji it couldn’t have been anything we did as we were not connected. I filed an appeal.

In the mountain of email was some other rubbish crashing into our world which I need to sort out. It’ll get done but it was nice to be ignorant of all this for a while.

When we first arrived we were told by a few friends of a local salon who did a terrific massage for a very low cost. We’re both booked in on this for this morning. Looking forward to that.

Helen and I went to the Copra Shed office to announce ourselves and order our Fiji cruising permit. We then made our way down the high street (the only one of consequence) to explore Savusavu and find the various places we had to pay our bills. Helen, as usual, visited most of the Supermarkets to case out what foods are available and the prices. Most items are available at a very good price so once we’ve depleted our vast New Zealand stores we know we have plenty here.

We bought a SIM card for our phone so now we can make local calls. My phone is discharging it’s battery rather quickly so I may have to do something about that but for now it will do. Sorting out an internet connection became somewhat more awkward. The Fiji Vodafone website claims they have 3G services in a lot of places and 2G for a lot of the rest but this is not the case in Savusavu. I can’t use my phone to bridge data services and need a data card for the USB stick given to us in New Zealand. However, the store that sells the data cards wasn’t sure if the stick would work and asked us to wait for their tech guy who will be here Tuesday or Wednesday. No rush on getting connected is ok.

We bumped into Frank on Tahina who was also on similar errands to us and we walked together to the hospital to pay for the health inspection. We parted company with Frank when we reached town as we had different ideas about where to eat. Helen and I ended up eating at a restaurant quite close to the Copra Shed which served an excellent chicken curry. During lunch the heavens opened. May is usually the onset of the dry season and that hasn’t happened yet.

After lunch we explored the high street in the opposite direction before returning to the boat for the afternoon. Not long after, Paul was dropped off at the boat by John and Pam from Passages and we invited them aboard for a beer and a chat. Paul has now worked out his plans for the rest of his stay in Fiji. He’ll be leaving us on Wednesday to start a very well priced Scuba Certification course here in Savusavu before heading to the mainland on the Sunday night ferry. He’s going to sort out his flight today and once those details are ironed out we can officially disembark him from the boat.

Later in the afternoon I went back ashore with Paul to drop off some laundry. The services here are very cheap and we have many loads to do so we’re splitting the effort. It turned out our cruising permit was already prepared (we had been told it could take days) so I collected that and set about obtaining a permit to visit the Lau group to the east. As we were heading back to the dinghy I bumped into Bert from Boree who was not looking overly happy. He mentioned he was having trouble connecting his PC to his TV again (I’ve already helped him out once before with this) and I said I’d be happy to help out again. The real reason for his discontent is he’d just been given an outrageous price for a ventilation fan for his engine room to replace the one that had failed in passage. I looked at the spec sheet he had in his hand and gave him the good news. Ages ago I’d erroneously ordered a wrong sized fan for a spare and had exactly the part he needed. What a coincidence. He dinghied over to our boat to check it out and it was just the right thing. We did a deal which was good for both of us then headed over to Boree to fix his TV. It took about 10 seconds to find the problem.

By the time I was back at the boat it was time to head back to the Copra Shed to hang out. Brian and Jodon from El Regalo were there having just arrived and soon more piled in. After a couple of beers we all headed to the restaurant over the road where Helen and I had eaten earlier. We ended up joining all the tables in one section of the restaurant. Apart from us, we had the True Companions, El Regalos, Tahinas, Garimas, Jacksters and Kilkeas at the table.

The evening turned out cool and dry. Did we just witness the start of the dry season?

We’ll be here in Savusavu for a few more days to sort things out and recuperate from our passage. We need to fill a propane tank and there’s our internet to sort out. We also need to disembark Paul. If we stay too long we’ll get fat, particularly if we keep on eating two meals per day. If the weather stays good we’ll probably hike to the top of a nearby hill where there is supposed to be a good look out.