atahualpa domain was triggered too early. This is usually an indicator for some code in the plugin or theme running too early. Translations should be loaded at the init action or later. Please see Debugging in WordPress for more information. (This message was added in version 6.7.0.) in /home3/aboarddi/public_html/blog/wp-includes/functions.php on line 6114All too soon it was time to leave as Helen and I had to get down to Grahamstown to meet my side of [...]]]>
All too soon it was time to leave as Helen and I had to get down to Grahamstown to meet my side of the family there. We had opted to go via bus – a scheduled 12 hour journey.
Diane and Gerald took us to the bus station and saw us off. It was nice to have them there as the bus departed half an hour late resulting in our having a little extra time together.
The bus arrived in Grahamstown two and a half hours late. You can imagine how much of a chore it was. My sister, Sue, picked us up and we made a brief stop off at my parents to say hello. They were facing their final evening in temporary accommodation before moving into their new home the following day. It was a nice surprise for them as they hadn’t expected us to show for another couple of days.
We ended up back with Sue and quite uncharacteristically drank too much wine before going to bed.
On Tuesday it was nice to be able to help my parents with their move and settling in. Sue has done most of the work organising their move but every little helps.
Since then it’s been a matter of spending time with my parents in their new home. They’re both more active than we’d expected which was great to learn. For now we’ll spend the next few days helping to sort things out resulting from the move and gradually ramp up dealing with our future (and past – taxes !!!!) which all needs to be done. Joy.
]]>Around midday we left our bags with [...]]]>
Around midday we left our bags with hotel and headed out. We had lunch at the Lie Heung Tea House in Central Hong Kong. The food didn’t impress us but it was a real experience eating with the press of Chinese that frequented this popular spot.
After lunch we decided to watch a movie, Django Unchained, at the movie theatre in the very posh IFC Mall in the area. We really enjoyed it and at 2½ hours long it certainly killed some time. It had to be one of the most comfortable theatres we’ve ever sat in, complete with polished leather chairs to sit in.
After the movie we headed to the roof of the mall which we’d read had great views. It did, as long as we ignored the building work going on in front of us. We did have a small surprise when we recognised, nearby, the building from the TV adaptation of Nobel House by James Clavell. We had thought it might have been torn down since the TV 3 parter. It did look a little dwarfed by the very tall buildings nearby which had gone up since the series but it was there.
Feeling as if we hadn’t quite had enough of the crushing press of Chinese locals in the street market we headed off to Chunking Manions and Mong Kok to pic up some last minute pressies.
We decided to go to the airport early which was good as the taxi driver dropped us off at the wrong terminal. We then waited at the wrong gate and nearly missed the plane but were found by the airport staff in time. D’Oh.
After many interminable hours of flying we had a fast change over at Joberg before flying on to Durban where we were met by Dianne and Gerald from Whiskers.
The conversation, beer and wine carried on from where it left off back in French Polynesia in 2010. We’ll be here in Durban for a few days before heading down to Grahamstown to visit my family there.
]]>I have to make a [...]]]>
I have to make a comment about Tiger Direct. They have a bad rep here in Australia. Everyone ‘knows’ they’re often late. We’ve flown with them lots. The only delays we’ve had were due to runway closures at Brisbane which affected all planes. Yesterday, either Sam caught the wrong plane or his arrived 25 minutes early. Both hypotheses seem implausible but we can think of no others. All good.
On Wednesday Helen and I went out for a walk to Jell’s Park again. We hunted down two geocaches. The first required us to traverse long grass so we passed on it. The second we found. I took a ‘photo sphere’ of the location. Take a look. Use your mouse to drag the image around. It goes all the way around. You can even go full screen. Cool don’t you think? (Turns out the following links hammer Chrome so for now I have put in a break and you can choose when to head on and look)
Here is another photo sphere taken when we were in Melbourne a few days ago.
And some more pics.
Finally, we have now booked all (bar the flight from here to Sydney) of our flights to South Africa travelling via Sydney and Hong Kong. We have a lot of ideas mapped out on how to spend our time in both cities. We will be flying into Durban on the first of February where we’ll meet up with Diane, Gerald and Bee from Whiskers before bussing it down to Grahamstown to meet up with my family there a few days later. We’re excited by all of it.
For me, Hong Kong will be geek heaven (I hope) as I can buy and drool over much stuff before it gets out to the rest of the world. I am already building my shopping list.
Today it is hot, hot, hot. 40C. We’re all off to watch Life of Pi. The cinemas are cool. Helen, Sam and I will be watching it in 3D while the Barber’s will be watching it in 2D.
]]>Soon after they left we up anchored and headed out. With a weather front due in the area quite a few boats were on their way from Moorea to Tahiti. The winds were brisker than the forecast and for a while it all looked good. Shortly after leaving Moorea behind we ran into a wind shadow from Tahiti which slowed us down as well as turning 20 degrees the wrong way. I decided to tack and find the wind again which we did. We sailed all the way back to the reef around Moorea (albeit further south than before) and tacked again sailing away until we found the wind shadow again, this time further out. We kept this up for a few hours ending up at the southern entrance to the protected area behind the reef on the NW side of Tahiti.
Navigating the narrow passage between the shore and the reef we found ourselves facing a canoe race in progress with nowhere to go. We ended up motoring between two of the canoes racing towards us. Soon we found a space in the anchorage near to a number of our friends.
We went ashore once we felt we were positioned ok in the anchorage and cased out the local supermarket – a large Carrefour. Helen and I had the evening in to oursevles while John visited some friends on other boats.
This morning Helen and I have again been to the Carrefour to collect deposits on some of the beer bottles we’ve emptied. Unfortunately they don’t sell beer on a Sunday. We’ve invited a whole bunch of people over for my Birthday tomorrow so hopefully we’ll be able to score some cold ones tomorrow.
The weather today is horribly humid so I don’t think we’ll do a lot more than just sit here and sweat it out.
]]>Early on we were visited by customs who boarded us to check our bonded wine was still in place. Of the two guys who boarded us in Fatu Hiva it was the nicer one who again came aboard. Turned out he lives here in Cook [...]]]>
Early on we were visited by customs who boarded us to check our bonded wine was still in place. Of the two guys who boarded us in Fatu Hiva it was the nicer one who again came aboard. Turned out he lives here in Cook Bay.
Later on in the morning John spent a few hours snorkeling with Gerald from Whiskers while Helen and I dinghied over to the other side of the bay to visit the fruit juice factory. The weather was perfect and the views spectacular although we are getting used to it. Sometimes I have to imagine being back at work, work, work and then suddenly being transported for a day to where we are and remember how it would feel. That’s always a good level set and elevates the experience.
The only thing we could visit at the fruit juice factory turned out to be their store with the upside of having a few tasters of the local liqueurs which left us feeling pleasantly mellow for the rest of the morning.
In the afternoon I fixed a hole in our hammock relishing the returned use of my right hand.
In the evening we ate out with Gerald and Dianne at the local pizza restaurant. Nice pizzas but poured with rain on the way over.
Today we’re thinking of sailing back to Tahiti. John has just a few more days aboard and a few of the folks his age are over in the Pape’ete area. It would be a chance for him to say his last good byes. The forecast winds are at a better angle for the sail today compared to tomorrow although a little lighter. We’ll head for the free anchorage close to Marina Taina this time. If we have to go to the main town we’ll take the bus.
]]>Back on the boat after lunch Gerald from Whiskers as well as Tom from Emily Grace showed up to discuss our leak. There was concern we may have corrosion which would be quite serious. To be on the safe side the immediate remediation was to use epoxy to seal the leaking joint and then seal that over with a layer of self bonding tape. I did all this and upon testing we are again dry.
Somewhere along the way I managed to aggravate my wrist which is now extremely painful. I suspect it may be related to the sore throat, etc. I have but can’t be sure. There are a few medical professionals on nearby boats who I may consult today.
Not sure of our plans for today but right now I don’t feel up to much.
]]>We headed further west past one of those luxury resorts with accommodations out over the water and tied up to some more moorings. Before we were in the water it was evident we were in the right place. We were surrounded by rays and black tipped reef sharks. We assumed the fish must be fed by visiting boats and expected more of the same from us. The water was about 5 feet deep and I must admit I was a little nervous particularly when the rays would often swim under us. Memories of Steve Irwin. Nearby where we were tied off was a deeper channel where large numbers of remoras circulated amongst some more black tipped reef sharks.
Heading back to the boat the heavens opened on us and we arrived feeling very cold and certainly very wet. Even the cold water in the shower felt warm and the warm water felt bliss.
The weather was patchy all afternoon. I tried to further troubleshoot a leak that has developed around one of our through hulls and is gradually increasing – not good news. It started on our trip from the Tuamotus to Tahiti. I was able to stop it once but now it’s restarted and worse than before.
At 5pm we had a BBQ aboard with Whiskers and Callisto. I ran my leak problem by Gerald who has built a few boats. He’s agreed to come and take a closer look today. We had a lot of fun, as ever, chatting, eating and drinking, although I’d lost my appetite. I think I’m coming down with a cold caught from the recent crowds of people we’ve been mingling with.
Today we’re off for a hike to a scenic point called Belvedere then walking down to the next bay to explore the town there before finding our way back here. Should be fun. It’s dark right now but the stars are out. Looks like good weather finally.
]]>We munched our fresh bread and made the boat ready to sail. As we waited Sea Mist arrived from the anchorage on the other side of the airport and ended up rafted up against us while we waited for the 9am departure for the start of the race (no – it was a rally !!).
There was a buzz of excitement as nearly 40 boats made their way outside of the harbour ready for the official start of the race (no – it was a rally !!). The race (rally) started at 9:30 in light winds. We cheated a little and pushed ourselves along in the light air keeping in the middle of the pack. Soon we hit the winds coming from the SE and were flying in 20 knots of wind and creeping higher. Dignity loves the high winds and we were flying along between 9 and 11 knots. As the winds reached the high 20s we reefed the main. Most of the monohulls around us were wetting their rails – one or two wee almost flattened against the water.
The end of the race (no!!! – rally) was exiting. I’d noticed that the regen had been on for a while so I made sure it was off and we suddenly gained pace on the boats around us. The line to the finish was tighter than most boats could make, including us, so most of the boats were making a tack or two in close quarters right between the buoys. As the boats made it into the anchorage it became quite packed. We found a good spot on a sand bar in only 8 feet of water. With stronger winds predicted I dove on the anchor and found it buried in sand – perfect. I did later ready a second anchor in case we dragged over night.
In the five years the Puddle Jump has been run this was by far the most wind they’ve had. As far as we know everyone was fine and no boats were damaged so that made it a perfect start to the day’s festivities.
With the wind being so strong and every one arriving early we had quite a wait for the evening’s fun. At 5pm we went ashore to witness more Tahitian dancing (very erotic I think). A few gifts were given to random people. Helen received a basket woven out of palm leaves. Then came the BBQ which we’d paid for earlier which we ate under a large marquee. We sat with Whiskers and Callisto but throughout the evening we chatted with many of our other friends made along the way.
Overnight the winds continued to blow strong. If anyone dragged it happened without waking us up despite our having the radio on overnight. The wind gen really earned it’s keep. It has rained overnight but now it is quiet. Hopefully the weather will improve for today where there are Tahitian canoe races to participate in and other events.
]]>With nothing left but to run the morning SSB net (it was my turn) we readied the boat so we could set off once this was done.
With no wind we were motoring across flat water. As we approached the cut the water went from clear to crystal clear. It looked as though we were in shallow water when we were in fact in 70 feet. We were helped towards the cut by a one knot surface current which switched suddenly to two knots against us for a short period before disappearing all together.
The motoring to Toau was fairly uneventful. The genset cut out once with an overheating error which I resolved by repositioning the duct that extracts the hot air from the genset compartment. We had one bite on the trolling lines but nothing was caught.
Anse Amyot is a very shallow cut on the north side of Toau. It is too shallow to pass through but there is an accessible (from the outside) small lagoon with some moorings. The currents in the pass are negligible so, we understand, the snorkeling and diving is excellent without the problems of currents. As we approached we hailed Soggy Paws who we knew was there and asked which mooring was closest to good snorkeling as it’s always nice to go from the back of the boat. They gave us good advice and soon we were safely tied up to a ball. On the way in, Whiskers overheard us on the radio and contacted us. They had just left not knowing we were arriving. A missed opportunity but I’m sure we’ll catch up in the Society Islands.
John and Patricia from Whoosh were soon over to say hello which was nice. They gave us the low down of the anchorage. We then went ashore to the ‘cruisers lounge’ where folks congregate and said hello to some old and new friends.
Our plan is to slow down (we’ll try – honest) and stay here for four nights before heading off to Tahiti in time to pick up our sail, fill our propane and sort out immigration for John before joining the rally/rendezvous which kicks off on the 18th and heads over to Moorea on the 19th.
]]>We sat down and looked through Kina’s book of tattoos selecting one we each liked. We had wanted someone who was less familiar with foreigners and hence less influenced by outside tastes and from the selection this looked to be the case. Given the Helen was positive towards this I let her go first lest she change her mind while I was having mine done. Helen chose to have hers done on her thigh so it could be hidden but shown easily as well as being able to see it herself. The pattern comprises sweeping curves with lots of intricate detail with lots of symbols representing travel, family, the Marquesas, etc. I chose a different tattoo but with similar curving style and symbols which went over my shoulder blade.
Having the tattoos done was a little painful at times but mostly relaxing, particularly when we relaxed and took our mind off of what was happening.
Despite the tattoos being quite intricate, Kina completed them quite quickly so we had some time to wait for Etienne to return. While we waited Kina gave us some fruit from his garden. Loads of fruit. We ended up with mangos, papayas, pampelmousse, bananas, oranges, some spiky delicious things we don’t know the name of and some aubergines (egg plant). He then invited us to join him for lunch which was a chicken stew with bread and rice. It was delicious. Kina also turned out to be a tapa maker and a sculptor. He showed us some of his work which we thought was fantastic.
Etienne eventually arrived and we headed back to Hakahetau and to the boat. We immediately left to head south to join Whiskers who had moved down to Baie de Vaiehu. We’d promised Gerald we’d take a look at his computer which had died and we wanted to show off our new marks of passage.
Dianne and Gerald were very impressed with our tattoos. Helen’s is very strategically placed as it just occasionally shows below her hemline giving the hint of something exotic just out of sight. Quite sexy really.
Gerald’s computer was unfortunately pronounced dead looking like it needs a new motherboard. We spent a little time giving some advice about his laptop which we’ll follow up on next time we meet. We spent the remainder of the afternoon and evening sitting around on their foredeck eating and drinking and watching the sun go down and the stars come out.
Whisker’s are off to the Tuamotus today and we’re off north to Nuku Hiva and our water maker pump so our paths again go different ways. It’s almost certain we’ll meet again in a few weeks though.
We are both very pleased with our tattoos and would thoroughly recommend Kina to anyone else following our wake both for his tattoo work or for someone looking for some unique wood / bone sculptures. Furthermore, given that, from what we can tell, few sailors have their tattoos done on Ua Pou and that each island as it’s own style, Kina’s tattoos should be more unique. His number is (689) 925-585. The town of Hakamaii is not easily accessible by sea so using Etienne from Hakahetau would be a good idea. Hiring locals to drive one around is not cheap in the Marquesas so I’d recommend tying this in with a general visit of the island. Etienne also suggested that if groups wanted Kina’s services he could perhaps shuttle him to Hakahetau instead.
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