Fiji « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

Sunflower Reef

by steve, on August 10th, 2011 (Fiji, Leu Cat)

The morning weather forecast indicated bad weather arriving around midday. We therefore cancelled all thoughts of moving out of Musket Cove and instead decided to use the remainder of the good weather to go snorkeling.

Our first target was a dive site call “Plantation Pinnacle” involving about a 2 mile dinghy ride. Having negotiated a shallow reef we found the dive site where two dive boats were already moored. They suggested the nearby “Sunflower Reef” site would be better suited for snorkeling so we headed there instead.

Sadly, a lot of the coral here was dead. On the other hand, where it was alive, the coral and sea life was vibrant. We were in the water for well over an hour finding new and interesting things to see. At times were were surrounded by hundreds of sergeant majors, some of whom would nibble at our skin (perhaps a sign they are used to being fed by humans). At one point Anne spotted a large octopus which I was able film.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfwi5p9n0N4[/youtube]

All in all, it was a pretty good swim. On the way back we stopped off at a patch of reef frequented by many day tour operators. Here were again surrounded by fish but not in the same numbers as previously and with not as clear water. By the time we’d finished this snorkel the weather front had reached us. The winds had picked up and the water had become instantly choppy. As the wind was coming from the direction of the mooring field we had to dinghy into it. Had we started dry we would have arrive soaked. The dinghy filled with water but we made it. Anne thought it was all hilarious.

The weather nailed us to the boat for the afternoon. We finished off ‘December Boys’ which we’d started but failed to finish a few nights previously and watched the whole of ‘The World’s Fastest Indian’.

In the evening Helen and I popped ashore to spend a little time with the Leu Cats at the bar. The weather was not brilliant but we made the effort.

We finished off the Mahi Mahi for dinner. Delicious. We finished off the evening playing cards.

The weather continues to be nasty and is forecast to be so throughout today. So I doubt we’ll be moving today either. This morning I’ve caught up with all our photos and linked the albums to prior blog entries.

Yesterday John offered to help out with some boat projects. I may just take him up on it.

Musket Cove

by steve, on August 9th, 2011 (Dreamcaper, Fiji, Leu Cat)

The last couple of hours of our passage were spent motoring in increasingly lighter air. We radioed in and secured a mooring ball in advance of learning where best to anchor. With four of us in the dinghy we didn’t want to be too far away from shore so the mooring ball seemed the best option for now.

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We were soon ashore to register ourselves here at Musket Cove. I felt like we’re back in the Caribbean. Manicured marinas, resorts, boat loads of tourists and not so clear waters. This is not the Fiji we’ve grown to love over the last few months. There are merits. I’m sure we’ll get used to it. I make it sound bad. It’s not. It’s quite beautiful. It’s just a bit of a culture shock.

We were soon registered and, having made earlier calls, found out Anne and John’s delayed luggage was arriving before midday. We decided to have lunch at the coffee bar while we waited for the ferry to arrive. Arrive it did and Anne and John’s luggage was duly collected.

After lunch we returned to the boat and so began Xmas with the unpacking of our goodies. Bilge pumps don’t sound exciting but in the right circumstances they can be. During the unpack we each had a beer. This was our undoing as we all conked out for an hour or two.

Later, Anne and John took the kayak to explore. While they were out I had our dive tanks filled and topped up the dinghy fuel. While I was out and about I bumped into Steve and Portia from Dreamcaper (not seen since Tahiti last year) aboard Leu Cat (not seen since New Zealand). It was nice to have a chat and quick catch up.

In the evening we went for the curry buffet at the resort bistro. It was pretty good but not the best. With all we could eat we ate all we could and were quite replete by the time we headed back to Dignity.

Although before 9pm we were all pooped. Our bunks beckoned for a sleepful but hot and sweaty night.

This morning I have begun the job of uploading our recent photos. I haven’t finished and I won’t be able to get round to putting the albums into previous posts just yet. For now, you can find the recent uploads on our photos page.

Off to Musket Cove

by steve, on August 8th, 2011 (Fiji)

After running a clothes wash we did decide to move the boat to a nicer spot nearby. Although the spot turned out to be a little more choppy than where we’d spent the night, it did give John and I access to an excellent snorkeling spot around a number of huge bommies.

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We all relaxed the rest of the day before setting off for the overnight trip to Musket Cove around 4pm. Prior to dinner we sailed wing on wing through calm waters trying to get a better angle on the winds. By dinner we were far enough away from Kandavu to turn further west on a port tack. By 8pm we deemed we’d made enough distance west to jibe and sail west of Vatulele Island half way to Viti Levu. The decision to turn then ended up a good one as we sailed through the night on a single tack. We established a 2 hour watch with Anne and John sharing a single slot. We made very good progress overnight running into light winds and a strong counter current around 5am. We are currently motor sailing with 15nm to go to Malalo Passage.

Diving at the Aclarity Pass and a Damn Fine Curry

by KC2RIY, on August 7th, 2011 (Fiji, Imagine, Jackster, Osso Blanco, Sea Mist)

Again, in the morning, I picked up Siwa from the village to see if we could find any Mantas. We first called the village at Buliya. The elders had not seen any wisdom in discounting visiting fees for visiting sailboats. 40 Fijian Dollars may be reasonable to folks visiting from resorts or cruise ships but I doubt if this will help attract sail boats. Regardless, I took Siwa over to the island where they visit their cleaning station but they weren’t present. The location was also very choppy so there was no sense in waiting.

Back at the boat Siwa was booked to take the Ossos, Jacksters and John&Stuart (Sea Mist/Imagine) on a dive west of the island. We got ourselves in on the dive. It was a bit far, we weren’t prepared and we also had plans to move west so we killed three birds with one stone and took Dignity around to the west side of the island while we prepared the dive gear.

The other boats followed a short while later meeting up where we anchored. By then we were all ready. Helen stayed behind, Anne went aboard Osso’s large runabout and John and I followed in our dinghy. The surface waters by the dive were very choppy but down below the visibility was excellent as was the dive. The area was all canyons with lots of swim throughs. Siwa did a very good job as a dive master. I know the Jacksters and Ossos who have done quite a few trips with him have been equally pleased. We thoroughly recommend him. If you’re researching for your trip, look up Siwa in the village of Naqara in Ono. According to our dive nut buddies this area exceeds the more famous rainbow reef at the east end of Vanua Levu so we do recommend this.

Once back from the dive we washed down our gear, showered then at lunch. Straight after we set off. We were soon under sail with two lines out. Anne had chosen the lure for the fishing rod which I had prepared a few days previously. Half way to our destination the reel sang. We soon had the head sail in to reduce boat speed and John pulled in the handline to avoid a snarl up. We knew we had a mahi mahi early on as it had a lot of spirit and leapt out of the water a couple of times. I gave Anne the job of bringing the fish in. We didn’t lose it and soon had it aboard. It weighed in at 10 pounds. I tied a knot round it’s tail allowing us to bleed it out in the water behind the boat. As we were a few miles from our destination we left the fish on the back step so we could focus on arrival.

Soon after the catch we briefly spied dolphins in the water behind us. They didn’t approach the boat too closely but one did a flip out of the water to show off. We could see them splashing off into the distance behind us so perhaps they were hunting.

Given the time we left after lunch the most appropriate land fall was the bay west of the village of Daku. With Helen and John at the bow we threaded our way in between the reefs anchoring in very protected and calm waters.

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Once we were safely anchored we turned our attention back to our mahi mahi. I lopped of the head and tail which we put into a bag along with some more of the Wahu of which we still have a fair amount. I cleaned the fish and cut it into four steaks. I filleted one side of one of the steaks leaving the other seven halves to Anne. John and I took the dinghy ashore navigating a shallow but vibrant reef to give sevusevu to the headman at Daku. We met the headman, Epi, on the beach. He took us to his home where Epi performed the ceremony. We learned we were the first boat here this year and felt really bad telling him we were only stopping for the night. We know how much the villagers like to hear from overseas people and it was a shame to have to stop by so briefly. I said that Helen and I would be coming back to Fiji next year and hopefully we could stop by then.

Back on Dignity the filleting and clean up was complete and the mahi mahi curry was progressing well. It turned out to be an excellent meal. Fresh deep water fish on the table in three hours. It doesn’t get much better.

We finished the evening off by watching a movie. Despite it being very engaging we all felt extremely tired and failed to reach the end of the movie. That will have to wait.

This evening we’ll be sailing north west to Musket Cove marina west of the main island. It will be an overnight sail so today we’ll be one of relaxation to prepare for the trip. We may move Dignity into the reef area in front of a nearby resort but nothing more taxing is planned for today.

Friday Night Disco

by KC2RIY, on August 6th, 2011 (Fiji, Imagine, Jackster, Jarana, Osso Blanco, Sea Mist)

In the morning I went ashore to pick up Siwa, the villager who is an occasional dive master at a nearby resort. There is a manta ray spot nearby that the village at Buliya charges $40 per head to visit. This is a lot of money for something that is free elsewhere. Many of the cruisers here are keen to see the mantas and although we are willing to pay the $40 (on a no show no pay basis) we are trying to get a concession for the cruisers here. The thinking being that they are more likely to attract cruisers to the area (Naqara had none last year and one the year before, they say) if they can drop the price for us. The village elders were out so a decision could not be made on our request. Nevertheless, I took Sila over to the spot where the mantas show. We searched for a while, as did another pair of locals in their dinghy. Unfortunately, no mantas were there so our plan for the morning was scratched. Instead, Anne and John took the dinghy to go snorkeling nearby while Helen and I rested.

In the afternoon, we had hoped to go diving. All the good spots are on the west coast of Ono. Siwa had gone out with the Osso Blancos and Jacksters in the morning. They’d had a rough time in the area where the winds had shifted to the SW. He had decided that an afternoon dive would be untenable so that idea was scratched too.

However, the day wasn’t a complete washout. The weather was definitely improving. Although we had a few patched of rain, we did have more than a few patches of sunshine which warmed us up. In the evening, a beach party with bonfires and dancing had been planned by the villagers. We all prepared some snacks for the villagers and headed ashore at 7pm. Due to increased winds, the bonfire idea had been abandoned. We were taken to one of the nearby huts where the villagers were all set up. As we approached they fired up their instruments and went into song. I was asked to share the message that when each song started we could select one of the locals to dance with. And that we did.

Grog (cava) was freely flowing. Somehow we decided we would sing them a song in return. However we could not find a song for which we all knew the words. In the end we picked Let It Be. I went back to the boat to pick up some beer to give to the villagers (for which they were very well chuffed) and to print out some lyrics. Our eventual rendition went pretty well I think.

The evening ended with the now familiar Isa Lei being sung. By the time we returned to the boat it was 11pm – very late for us cruisers.

Weather permitting we’re going to have another try for the mantas this morning. We need to make the trip to Musket Cove either this afternoon or tomorrow afternoon. The trade winds are beginning to reestablish themselves so either day should work well for us. The ocean swell is looking better, in terms of being lower, tomorrow and the direction should improve. With the winds also expected to be more easterly I’m expecting it to be warmer. So I’m plumping for a Sunday/Monday overnight passage. The only question now is whether to leave from here or to sail somewhere a little further west this afternoon to improve our wind angle and shorten the distance. We’ll see.

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Sunflower Reef

Musket Cove

Off to Musket Cove

Diving at the Aclarity Pass and a Damn Fine Curry

Friday Night Disco