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Whakapapa / Tongariro

Today was a travel day. We’d checked the weather yesterday and it looks like it is deteriorating towards the end of the week so we decided to leave Waitomo sooner rather than later so we could get a good chance of hiking the alpine Tongariro Pass. After picking up some provisions we drove the 2 hours to Whakapapa where we are now camped.

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We’re now a half mile above sea level. It is still quite hot during the day and the sun is quite fierce. We’re booked on an 8am minibus to the trailhead. It will take us 6-8 hours to traverse the pass where we expect to be picked up on the other side and returned to our camp ground. We’re cooking up plenty of potatoes this evening to give us useful energy tomorrow. This won’t be the most strenuous hike we’ve done together but it’s a half mile ascent which will certainly give us all some good exercise.

The Black Abyss

This is certainly going to be a day to remember. We were booked on the 9am “The Black Abyss” tour hosted by the Black Water Rafting Co. Being the first night camping none of slept particularly well but we were up in time to have a bit of breakfast and be there a little ahead of time.

We were joined by 4 others making us a group of 8. We had to pick out wet suit socks from a huge damp pile and be fitted with rubber shoes. This was followed by handing out of 5mm wetsuits – the implication was that our tour ahead was going to be slippery and cold. We weren’t to be disappointed on that front.

Once we were all ready we were mini bused to the area of our cave tour. Because the first element of our exploration was to be a 35 meter rappel straight down we had to be given a little training. This involved a couple of goes down a gentle slope – enough to familiarize ourselves to handle the equipment safely. It should be noted that even if we totally fumbled our equipment, our two tour guides (Veronica and Andrew) were in control and would have been able to prevent us from falling and lowering us safely. They were also pretty good at making things fun in case we were getting overwhelmed with the challenges ahead. As you can see from the pictures being taken they did a good job of this too.

Once adequately trained we each descended the 35 meter chimney down to a platform below. Getting all 8 tourists down to the bottom took some time. I was first down and somewhat envious of the last few down who’d stayed in the sun while I soaked in the underground chill. Even at the bottom of this shaft it was possible to see some of the glow worms the area is famous for.

Once we were all down we descended a sort of natural circular staircase in the rock and into a short tunnel where we were tethered in case we fell off the platform. At the end of this tunnel we were each hooked onto a zip line and flew over the underground river in total darkness.

Once we were all zipped over we were given some hot chocolate and flap jacks. I liked neither but consumed them anyway as the cold was getting pervasive and I could guess what was next.

“Next” turned out to be leaping into the water. The cold, underground water. We were allocated an inner tube in which we were to float and given the option to jump in (hopefully landing in the tube) or to descend sensibly. Most of us jumped wanting to get the plunge over and done with. I managed to fill my nose with water which went some way to distract me from the cold water. Sam managed a similar distraction using his groin slapping against the water as a diversion.

Fighting off the effects of cold we paddled to the edge and used a rope to heave ourselves towards the end of the side water way were in. At the end we were given some information about the glowworms before switching off all our lights. The glowworms were everywhere and simply amazing. We hooked up into a long chain and drifted back down the way we came taking in all the shining lights of the glowworms over the tunnel ceiling.

We then got to throw our inner tubes back up to the ledge we’d jumped from before making our way further downstream, sometime wading, often swimming. Each time we submerged fresh rivulets of cold water would work their way into our wetsuits thrilling us all no end. Our next “challenge” was a small slide over a little waterfall. This turned out to be more or less a kiddy slide set over the fall. We had to go down (not sure why) head first which ensured a thorough dunking at the bottom.

Here we were given the opportunity of a toilet break which by now was somewhat urgently required before forging on. More wading, more falling into holes and more dunking ensued before we were given the opportunity to squeeze through a tight hole in the rocks. There was another way around, much easier, but why not squeeze oneself through a small hole in the rocks with cold water all around. It was of course another photo opportunity.

By now, two of our party had been taken on ahead due to feelings of extreme cold. We’re in the middle of summer here and I wonder how folks cope in winter as this is a year round venture. We soldiered on. More wading. More getting wet. At one point we were told going forward required leaping off the side and belly flopping in the water. I’m sure this was not necessary but we were having fun. The camera was shooting and points were being given for the most creative leaps. One has to try.

Soon we were given some more hot drink and some chocolate before embarking on our final challenge – an upward ascent through three waterfalls. One has to wonder as to how people managed to wriggle through the ground finding these passages but here we were following our guides very specific instructions wriggling our way up through gushing water through tiny rock tunnels with just the promise of daylight and the warmth of the sun to drive us onwards and upwards.

Reaching daylight, crawling out of the belly of the Earth, was truly a delight. The sun was an instant source of much needed warmth. We were all in good spirits however having had an excellent adventure. We had a climb back to the van still at the start of our trip before being taken back to the HQ where we showered, changed and were fed with hot soup and toasted bagels.

No more activities planned for the day. Ben and Sam have been playing Frisbee and swimming in the pool while Helen and I have been reading. Soon we’re off to feed – replace all our calories lost below ground.

Waitomo

Being Sunday morning the drive to Waitomo was fairly straight forward. Not a lot of traffic on the roads. Having left around 9:30am we made it to Otorohanga by midday. We took a look at a local campsite but thought little of it. We briefly ate in town before heading towards the Waitomo Caves area to see the camp sites there. After stopping and checking out one we finally settled on the Top 10 Holiday Park. We signed up as members to get future discounts and booked a plot for three nights.

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Next came the challenge of putting up our new tent. It helped a little that the couple on the next site had exactly the same tent. We put it up (the easy bit) without too much fuss, installed our airbed, opened our chairs and looked upon our new temporary home. The boys very quickly put up our trusty 2 man micro tent which would fit our ‘vestibule’ area.

Once this was all sorted we set off for a hike along the Waitomo Walkway which took us eventually to a natural tunnel through which the local river flowed. To get there the path squeezed through a couple of natural side tunnels and in a couple of places we had viewpoints into the underground river.

Back at the campsite, after 3 hours of walking, the boys and I took a dunk in the outdoor pool and hot tub before showering as did Helen. After dinner we had a couple of beers in the local bar and a game of doubles at pool (Helen and I won).

Now we’re settling down for the night. Sam is playing his guitar outside, Ben and Helen are reading as will I quite shortly.

Tomorrow we’re off black water rafting which means riding rubber tubes through an underground stream. We should see the legendary glow worms this area is famous for. There should also be some abseiling. It all sounds good fun.

New Year’s Day

Ben and Sam showed up sometime after 9 marking the end of their night out. They agreed to regular consciousness around midday. Helen and I were a bit worn out from the previous night and stayed in throughout the morning relaxing. The boys needed no prompting (bar their pangs of hunger) to arose them at the agreed time. We headed out to find most restaurants closed. We found an open Sushi place and grabbed some very inexpensive roles which we ate back at our hotel room.

After lunch Helen and I left the boys to their own devices and went for a walk. We ended up walking over to and through the main park in Auckland (I think it’s called the Domain). There was a nice wintergarden there with plenty of now familiar and some less familiar plants and flowers on show. We peeked into the museum there but didn’t go in as we didn’t have the time. We walked back via the Parnell area which appeared quite quaint with lots of little restaurants and shops.

After another rest we went off in search of an evening meal. We walked quite some distance finding only Asian restaurants open. In the end we gave up and stopped at a mediocre Turkish fast food place which wasn’t very fast at that.

I understand the boys went out again last night – we’ll learn of their adventures later this morning.

Today we’re leaving town and heading towards the Waitomo area where we will pitch our tents for at least a couple of nights.

Happy New Year

Our New Year’s Eve began with a walk to Pier 21 where the Kamaya’s are moored. It was good to catch up with Ruth and Tim. As a bonus, Evi from Wonderland was staying aboard too. We then walked to the Ponsonby area where we met up with Richard and Krista from Lileth who we’ve not seen for ages. We had lunch with them and while doing so Darusha and Stephen from Scream showed up.

Our next stop was the Sky Tower where we had booked a jump from the observation deck. Ben and Helen didn’t feel it would be thrilling enough to justify the cost so it was down to Sam and I. With perfect weather the view from the top (and on the way down) was perfect. Stepping off the rim of the tower was quite intense. We were left dangling for about 10 seconds before the brakes were removed and we plummeted to the ground. Something to remember. We both received a free pass to take a ride to the observation deck which we gave to Helen and Ben.

Sam did a little more busking to help rebuild his entertainment kitty. Sam and Ben left us oldies to go back to Richard and Krista’s apartment near Ponsonby where they were due to meet up with Ian from Sea Mist and go out for the night. Helen and I had a meal out and watched the fireworks at midnight from a spot near the Sky Tower. There were fireworks from the tower and down on the river. We’d been told by a taxi driver that the river fireworks would be a long way away which turned out to be wrong advice. But we were able to see both which was quite good. We returned to the hotel to share a bottle of bubbly to celebrate the New Year.

Happy New Year to one and all.