The Black Abyss

This is certainly going to be a day to remember. We were booked on the 9am “The Black Abyss” tour hosted by the Black Water Rafting Co. Being the first night camping none of slept particularly well but we were up in time to have a bit of breakfast and be there a little ahead of time.

We were joined by 4 others making us a group of 8. We had to pick out wet suit socks from a huge damp pile and be fitted with rubber shoes. This was followed by handing out of 5mm wetsuits – the implication was that our tour ahead was going to be slippery and cold. We weren’t to be disappointed on that front.

Once we were all ready we were mini bused to the area of our cave tour. Because the first element of our exploration was to be a 35 meter rappel straight down we had to be given a little training. This involved a couple of goes down a gentle slope – enough to familiarize ourselves to handle the equipment safely. It should be noted that even if we totally fumbled our equipment, our two tour guides (Veronica and Andrew) were in control and would have been able to prevent us from falling and lowering us safely. They were also pretty good at making things fun in case we were getting overwhelmed with the challenges ahead. As you can see from the pictures being taken they did a good job of this too.

Once adequately trained we each descended the 35 meter chimney down to a platform below. Getting all 8 tourists down to the bottom took some time. I was first down and somewhat envious of the last few down who’d stayed in the sun while I soaked in the underground chill. Even at the bottom of this shaft it was possible to see some of the glow worms the area is famous for.

Once we were all down we descended a sort of natural circular staircase in the rock and into a short tunnel where we were tethered in case we fell off the platform. At the end of this tunnel we were each hooked onto a zip line and flew over the underground river in total darkness.

Once we were all zipped over we were given some hot chocolate and flap jacks. I liked neither but consumed them anyway as the cold was getting pervasive and I could guess what was next.

“Next” turned out to be leaping into the water. The cold, underground water. We were allocated an inner tube in which we were to float and given the option to jump in (hopefully landing in the tube) or to descend sensibly. Most of us jumped wanting to get the plunge over and done with. I managed to fill my nose with water which went some way to distract me from the cold water. Sam managed a similar distraction using his groin slapping against the water as a diversion.

Fighting off the effects of cold we paddled to the edge and used a rope to heave ourselves towards the end of the side water way were in. At the end we were given some information about the glowworms before switching off all our lights. The glowworms were everywhere and simply amazing. We hooked up into a long chain and drifted back down the way we came taking in all the shining lights of the glowworms over the tunnel ceiling.

We then got to throw our inner tubes back up to the ledge we’d jumped from before making our way further downstream, sometime wading, often swimming. Each time we submerged fresh rivulets of cold water would work their way into our wetsuits thrilling us all no end. Our next “challenge” was a small slide over a little waterfall. This turned out to be more or less a kiddy slide set over the fall. We had to go down (not sure why) head first which ensured a thorough dunking at the bottom.

Here we were given the opportunity of a toilet break which by now was somewhat urgently required before forging on. More wading, more falling into holes and more dunking ensued before we were given the opportunity to squeeze through a tight hole in the rocks. There was another way around, much easier, but why not squeeze oneself through a small hole in the rocks with cold water all around. It was of course another photo opportunity.

By now, two of our party had been taken on ahead due to feelings of extreme cold. We’re in the middle of summer here and I wonder how folks cope in winter as this is a year round venture. We soldiered on. More wading. More getting wet. At one point we were told going forward required leaping off the side and belly flopping in the water. I’m sure this was not necessary but we were having fun. The camera was shooting and points were being given for the most creative leaps. One has to try.

Soon we were given some more hot drink and some chocolate before embarking on our final challenge – an upward ascent through three waterfalls. One has to wonder as to how people managed to wriggle through the ground finding these passages but here we were following our guides very specific instructions wriggling our way up through gushing water through tiny rock tunnels with just the promise of daylight and the warmth of the sun to drive us onwards and upwards.

Reaching daylight, crawling out of the belly of the Earth, was truly a delight. The sun was an instant source of much needed warmth. We were all in good spirits however having had an excellent adventure. We had a climb back to the van still at the start of our trip before being taken back to the HQ where we showered, changed and were fed with hot soup and toasted bagels.

No more activities planned for the day. Ben and Sam have been playing Frisbee and swimming in the pool while Helen and I have been reading. Soon we’re off to feed – replace all our calories lost below ground.