Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

Today was the day we had ordered our hiking excursion. We had made it very clear on a number of occasions that we wanted to do some long hiking and were reassured on same number of occasions that this is what we would get. We had hooked in a NZ couple we’d heard on the VHF looking for hiking partners on the previous day to make a sixsome along with the US couple from yesterday.

Alexis came along at 7am to pick us up. We then went over to the US couple who couldn’t come due to Emmy having a headache. The NZ couple, Cathy and Werner from Legend 2, did come so we were pleased we’d picked up their request. We were taken to shore where we were handed over to Stratford – the tour guide/taxi driver. He first took us to the Syndicate Forest which was a gentle walk around a circuit in the rainforest. Stratford was very helpful in explaining what the trees were and pointing out the wildlife. The big thing to look out for were the parrots which came in two kinds. The Jacos which went around in pairs and the imperials which were the national bird. We managed to see both kinds.

The next stop was Milford Falls. Along the way Stratford stopped to pick up fruit. The local custom is that fruit is free to eat but not to sell. We had bananas, two types of grapefruit, orange, raspberries and chocolate nuts. The falls were quite nice although spoilt by the fact that the pool at the base was surrounded barbed wire to stop people swimming in it. People downstream drink the water so they are trying to control pollution. Understandable but the fencing took away a lot. Got some nice pics though.

So this was it. We didn’t really get the hike we’d asked for. We negotiated with Stratford to drop us off at the base of the walk to the top of Morne Diablotin, the highest peak in Dominica. The climb itself was 2,800 feet up to the peak at 4,600 feet then back down to the road. Seemed a push but doable.

The first half of the hike was very steep and relentlessly upward. Log steps were placed most of the way but we had to negotiate fallen trees, rocks and a fair amount of mud. We were all hoping the path would dry up as we ascended. After a while the exhaustingly steep (and stepped) part gave way to progressively harder parts. We found ourselves scrambling up very steep rocky outcrops (covered in mud), climbing over tangles of roots (covered in mud), climbing through and under tunnels of tangled roots (covered in mud), negotiating some very small flat parts (which turned out to be pools of mud). At one time we had to climb up (down on the way back) about 20ft through a nest of roots and branches. Sometimes we felt like we were walking across the tops of trees as our heads would pop out of the rainforest on a rocky outcrop (muddy of course). Other times you think you’re climbing over roots and suddenly there’s a 15ft gully beneath you. We tried to keep clean but bit by bit we were defeated as each part of us succumbed to the aforementioned mud. In fact, the whole of the final half of the climb was up a muddy gully which was about the only thing that gave the path it’s course.

The reward (and boy was it worth it) were some spectacular views. We didn’t quite make the top as the final part of the path had washed out but we made a peak just below the top. From here we could see south to Martinique and to the north end of the island. We could also see Portsmouth where we were anchored. Climbing down seemed to take longer than going up and was very tiring. Arms and legs had to be used at all times. Our backsides found the mud several times on the way down and we picked up a number of scratches. We were so pleased to finally reach the road. This is a hike we won’t forget.

Stratford showed up shortly after. I took off my shorts and shoes and put them in a bag as they were simply too muddy. Werner did similar. We all felt an urge to visit the recently opened KFC to pick up fried chicken – the first food we’ve had since leaving the US. I had to put my muddy shorts back on as I felt it wouldn’t be proper to walk in in my underpants.

Chicken acquired we made our way back to the boat where the food was consumed and washed down with beer. Then it was a matter of cleaning our boots, clothes and ourselves. The mud was pervasive and hard to remove so it took the scrubbing brush on our skin to make real inroads.

Now we plain ache. Everywhere. Arms. Legs. Backs. Everywhere. We are tired and ready to crash. A memorable day indeed. Tomorrow, we think, will be a very, very lazy day.