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Rain

Rain stopped any outside play. The water continues to be unclear so I allowed Helen only one wash in the morning as we must begin to conserve water. In the end this turned out to be necessary as it ended up raining a lot and we’d have had nowhere to dry a second load.

I was fairly listless for the day surfing the internet at very slow speed. Every now and then we pick up a 3G signal and we’re off for a bit but it never lasts that long. I decided my brain needed some real exercise and went back to Project Euler and nailed problems 172, 153 & 158. It’s such a weird feeling as each time I go back to this kind of activity I feel at first as if I’ve gone senile. The questions look impossible to answer and I wonder if we’ve had one too many parties. But soon the gears become unstuck and the synapses start to shake and ideas flow. Not all at once. Sometimes I have to walk away, have a snooze, read a book to distract myself and then come back with new ideas. Always satisfying to answer a few more as I’m continuing to feel as though I’ve run out of ones I can do.

In the evening we went ashore during a period when the rain had eased off to have a meal with Endless. There we met Paulo from Supermario who we’d not seen since the Galapagos. We had been told that dinner would be sausages and mash but it ended up being pasta again. Deja Vu!! Helen ended up going back with Endless while I stayed for a while drinking cava with the staff and guests. I didn’t return until midnight. I slept very well but now I am in that post cava haze. No Euler problems this morning.

This weekend we’ll be watching the rugby quarter finals. They don’t have Sky TV here which means we can only watch the matches that are shown on the Fiji One local TV station. So today we get to watch Ireland v Wales but not England v France which we really wanted to see. But tomorrow we get to see South Africa v Australia which should be an excellent match.

Live and Let Die

We began the day digging out all the bottles of wine scattered around the boat. Quite possibly, there are a few that escaped our attention but those will turn into a nice surprise later. The idea is to retain just enough to get us to New Zealand and sell the rest at cost to folks who are short. We can replace the wine in New Zealand and don’t want to have any complications with customs on the way in. However, for folks here who have run low, buying locally is expensive so it helps all. This had all come from a conversation with Arnold from Drifter (the Dutch boat that’s been here for a month) the night before and who’d shown interest in the idea.

Once we’d selected all the wines we wanted to keep/couldn’t part with, we laid out all the rest. I dinghied over to Drifter to pick up Arnold so he could come over and pick which wines he wanted. He snapped up all the reds we had spare.

Later I visited Endless to discuss windlass relays with Petr. They’d had a problem raising their anchor but the problem had now gone away without action. An intermittent problem with raising ones anchor is not a good thing as one never wants to be delayed when raising the anchor, particularly in an emergency. We discussed a few options which I hope was helpful.

While there we decided to all take a trip up the nearby river. With Petr, Ola and Neil from Endless we were soon in our dinghies motoring the 5nm to Natadola Harbour to our south. The trip took us up the river amost to the dock where we’d gone to visit Sigatoka a few days ago. On the last bend there is a turn off to the right where a small creek winds it’s way through the mangroves where it finally widens to a very small lake which ends pretty close to the beach there. As a result of all the recent rain the main river was chocolatey brown. Worse, when we entered the creek we quickly encountered a log jam where a mass of bamboo and some trash had collected and wedged up. There was a nasty smell too which was soon attributed to a dead pig floating in the mass.

Not wanting to be put off our goal I started pushing the log jam with the dinghy hoping to push it further up river where it could break up. We were partially successful in this. The dinghy also created a path halfway through the mass. We were beginning to ride up over the mass so I backed off to rethink. Petr then gave a go in his dinghy. He powered in and rose over the last section. The mass was again pushed forward and as it did so closed in behind them, dead pig and all. There were nearly through though and with use of their oars made it the rest of the way. With the mass now much looser we were able to push our way through too. Helen had to use a bamboo pole to push the floating carcass aside as we didn’t want it touching the dinghy.

Once we were all through we were back to heading up the last stretch of creek. As we gained confidence we powered through almost at full speed occasionally slowing wary of potential submerged hazards. When we could go no further we tied off our dinghies to the mangroves and went ashore. A short way along the dirt track there we found a path to the beach and walked along that towards the resort area. This section of the island boasts a couple of hotels, has a fine beach and great surf.
We stopped for lunch and beer at the less posh hotel before heading a little further to visit the Intercontintal. Neil went for a brief swim while we had a brief walk around the grounds.

Soon it was time to return. Back in our dinghies we raced back up the creek. The log jam was still there and needed a bit of effort to clear but not as bad as before. Better still, the pig had floated off a short way so the stink wasn’t so bad.

Back down the river we decided to explore a side creek. We worked our way along it, at one point having to duck low to get under an old railway bridge. We pushed on slowly as the mangroves closed in over us. Eventually we decided enough was enough and turned around. Knowing there were no submerged obstacles we raced back. It felt like a scene out of Live and Let Die as we sped through the narrow channel through the mangroves.

Here is the track of our trip.


View Likuri Dinghy Ride in a larger map

We ended up on Endless for coffee/tea and biscuits before. We agreed to meet up on Dignity at 6pm for a few games of Fluxx which Petr really likes. Ola and Niel also enjoyed the session – perhaps a few new converts.

Time rolls on. Bit of an admin day so I won’t bore you with the details. The weather has been pretty lousy with torrents of rain. The anchorage is now green from the local out flow. As there is a strong tidal current here the boat is often sideways to the wind which means the rain pours into the hatches. We did a wash in the morning before the rain but had to bring the washing inside and string it up to dry there. All adds to the humidity.

Endless showed up just before all the rain. We made contact on the radio and agreed to go ashore for the evening meal/show. This turned out, again, to be very enjoyable. Similar but different to the last time.

Recuperation

We thought it was the high life that comes with having guests aboard but it turns out Helen and I have a bit more going on that’s running us down. I’ve been getting headaches recently that haven’t stopped even with the new abstinence regime. I don’t think we could have chosen a better place to put the brakes on and recuperate.

A few more photos are available. They can always be found on www.aboarddignity.com/photos.htm. I’ll attach them to the relevant blog entries today.

Moce, Sota Tale

In the morning Brian and I went ashore to try and find a memory stick John from Passages had loaned us the night before containing some pictures of us. I’d handed to Helen to look after but it ended up being left on the table. Although the girl working the bar had seen it when tidying up it was nowhere to be found in the morning. We picked up some sandwiches for breakfast and returned to the boat. I popped over to Passages to give our apologies as I felt quite bad. They were just leaving so I said our goodbyes too. They’re planning to leave Fiji from Savusavu so the next time we see them will be in NZ.

Brian and his family spent the day off the boat. Ben completed his scuba certification with Brian and Janine joining him on his last dive. Helen and stayed aboard for the relaxing and reading. I was particularly stiff from the evening games the night before. For some reason the balls of my feet feel as though I’ve been kicking a wall.

Helen’s previous Spaghetti Bolognaise had gone down so well the first time it was a firm favourite for our last night all together. It didn’t disappoint.

This morning Holly and Brian took the Dignity fun ride up the mast – or at least as far as each were comfortable. I’d found a washer on the deck earlier on so I went up to inspect the rigging to see if anything had dropped off anywhere. Everything looked fine so we have a new mystery.

By 8am we were ashore with all the family’s luggage. We had a final breakfast together before they boarded the 9am launch to go ashore. Under the guidance of the staff we all bid each other Moce, Sota Tale (Fijian for Goodbye, See You Again) while a guitar player sang Isa Lei, the Fijian farewell song.

We’ve had a good time with Brian and his family but now we need to detox and rest. First we took a walk around the island to work off a bit of breakfast and we’ve vowed, for today at least, to lay off the beer and wine.

Now begins the end game of our stay here in Fiji. For today this means I have begun the detailed weather watch on the area from Australia over to New Zealand and up to here. As the weather systems travel from west to east I can watch the systems leave Australia and cross the Tasman sea. Over the next few weeks I will become more familiar with the patterns and better able to pick a departure window late this month. This will become a daily exercise.