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Hiking around Murchison

As planned we did go on two hikes today. The early promise of blue skies evaporated rather quickly and we were left with mostly overcast and occasional drizzle – which isn’t too bad for hiking. First stop was to a park with a long (claimed to be the longest in NZ) cable/suspension walkway over the Buller River. We spent about 2 hours walking about the area with the highlights being the wobbly long bridge and some thunderous waterfalls.

After a very filling lunch of lamb shank pie in town we hiked the Skyline trail which took us up to the top of a ridge overlooking the area. A good bit of exercise and some wonderful views.

Upon returning the amateur country festival was in full swing with singing ranging from moderately ok to dire. We settled in to relax for the afternoon reading and solving a few more problems (on my part).

While we’ve been on the road we’re continuing to stay in communication with some of our service providers back in Whangarei. The big news for us is regarding our sails. Thinking about it it is no surprise to learn that our mainsail is down to it’s last legs. We’re planned on getting a new head sail but now a new main is looming too. The existing sails will serve as backups. The miles have paid their toll and perhaps some exposure from the sun during the first years charter has left the sails a little weak in places. At the end of the day the decision is a no brainer. Safety comes first and we’ve pushed our luck so far with just one set of sails. Having two sets will help us enormously if we have a problem out in the middle of nowhere.

Nelson Lakes / Murchison

Having stayed the night in a cabin packing up this morning was straightforward. By 9:30 we were on our way inland. We had looked at the weather forecast which stated that the region was expecting rain and possible thunder late in the day and overnight. We therefore weren’t too keen on camping anywhere. We’d heard that Nelson Lakes were quite pretty so we decided to visit them on our way to Murchison where we hoped to find shelter.

Our first stop was St Arnaud on Lake Rotoiti. Here was an excellent visitors center with very good information on the geology of the area. The region straddle a fault line and over the millennia mountain ranges have been split apart and separated by many miles. More recently, in the last 10s of thousands of year the area was subject to glaciation which has left its mark in terms of hanging valleys, etc.

We took a small hike up Black Hill before eating lunch by the lake. We then took the Perimeter walk around the peninsular that sticks out into the lake. We then drove off detouring to Lake Rotorua. Here we met our nemesis, the sand flies, which despite the dollops of recently purchased repellent we had lathered over ourselves were still determined to have their lunch.

We therefore didn’t stay long there. Enough to take a few pictures. The drive to Murchison wasn’t too far. From our AA book we knew there were two campsites near to the center of town that had cabins. With the forecast rain we thought it would be worth exploring these first. The first place we visited, Riverview, was pleasant enough and had cabins for $40 a night. They could use a lick of paint but they’re good enough to keep us out of the rain.

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It turns out that this weekend this campsite is full of amateur country singers from around the area who get together to jam once a year. They have a stage set up and a marquee against the rain. Friday evening was karaoke night which ended up quite loud. We walked down to the area to see what was going on but didn’t stay too long.

The rain did indeed come down all last night but the skies are now blue again. Today, legs permitting, we have a couple of hikes planned.

Abel Tasman National Park

We are exhausted but happy with our experiences of the last couple of days.

On Wednesday morning we packed the tent and the remainder of its contents into the car then headed off into town to pick up some rolls for breakfast and evening meal. I had had my hopes on a big breakfast but Helen had persuaded me down to something that would fall short of our calorie burn for the day (is she saying I’m fat?).

We drove over to Marahau to catch the 10:30 water taxi into the park. I knew from the map that the water taxi office / car park was not quite on the shore but I was surprised to find out we were loaded onto the water taxi in the lot before being taken to the see towed by a tractor. It ended up being a bit of a fun start to the trip.

The water taxi ended up being a little bit of a tour. We first spent some time following a Hector Dolphin which was described to us as very being rare in the area. We were next taken to see a granite rock in the sea which had sometime in the past eons split down the middle.

After dropping some folks off at a beach we were then shown some seals sunning themselves on a nearby island.

The whole area was quite stunning. The coastline was made of fractured granite which gave rise to sandy beaches and shallows. Apart from the coldness of the water we were reminded of many of the coastal scenes we have been lucky enough to see in our voyages across the Pacific.

We were eventually dropped off, two hours after departure, at our hike starting point, Awaroa. The path from here was nice but a little samey compared to a number we have been on before including here in New Zealand. We made good time to our campsite at Bark Bay arriving there around 3pm.

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We soon had the tent up and realized we hadn’t brought anything to do. We walked around for a while bumping into Matt and Sue who were holidaying with their son on a small sailboat. Like many we’d seen they had come into the lagoon at high tide, drawn up their keel and would soon be sitting on the sand once the tide had gone out.

Back at the tent we found ourselves being bitten to death by sand flies and realized we’d also forgotten to bring fly repellant. We hid ourselves in the tent and tried to pass the time with I-Spy and 20 Questions. I was glad when it reached 5pm and we could eat. We exited the tent and ate our food while the flies ate us.

After finishing our food we felt quite tired and retired for a very early nights rest. I don’t think either of us slept too well in the cramped tent so we needed the extra time to get a full nights rest.

By 7:30 this morning we were on our way. The sky was again a brilliant blue. With an early start we didn’t see another soul on the path for over an hour.

The scenery along this section of the path was astounding. The path was cut into the side of the hill and sheltered by the surrounding vegetation for most of the way. We passed many waterfalls and over many bridges. When we had glimpses of the sea we could see the mountains over 60km to the east rising above the sea mist.

Depending on what we looked at the hike from Bark Bay out of the park was to take 7 or 8 hours. We made it back to the car by 1pm, including a stop for lunch, taking only 5½ hours. The only places to stop were beaches and we’ve seen plenty of them so we were both keen to move on and enjoy the hike.

Back at the water taxi car park we were able to get some fuel for the car. We were a bit short and didn’t want to run out getting back to the top 10 camp site. As it was a bit expensive there we only put in $10 of fuel before heading off. When we reached the campsite I went in to collect the key to the cabin we’d booked and realized I had left the fuel cap off. We drove back to the water taxi place and it wasn’t there. They’d seen us drive off with it on the roof but couldn’t stop it. So we drove back along the rode looking carefully for it. At each bump in the road and at each corner we figured that would be where it dropped off. Eventually we gave up looking and sped up. Soon after this we found it about 2 miles from where we had fueled. A little bit of luck there.

So we’re now back at the top 10 campsite in Motueko. Because we’re only stopping the one night we’ve taken a basic cabin rather than a campsite. We’ve showered, had a beer and soon we’ll be off to eat. We’re famished.

A really lazy day

Every now and then it’s nice just to sit back and do not a lot. That’s been today all right.

We have done a few things. We’ve made up our minds how to spend the next few days. We’ve decided on a two day/one night trip into the Abel Tasmin National Park. We’ll take the two man tent and cold food avoiding the need to take cooking equipment. We’ll start the day tomorrow with a big breakfast, pack the tent then catch the 10:30 water taxi north into the park. From there we’ll have an approximately 4 hour hike to our first night’s stop at Bark Bay. The next day we have a 7 hour hike out. We’ll come back here and take a simple cabin for the night before moving on.

Helen has been reading to relax. I’ve been tackling a few more Euler problems – I now have 84 nailed but it’s taking a while to figure out how to solve them and I’m running into a few brick walls. Well, it’s relaxing for me.

There is no room in the back packs for any blogging equipment so I’ll be quiet until we’re back. (NOTE – perhaps I can set my phone up to blog – to be solved at a later date)

Motueka

The weather refused to improve for rest of the day in Wellington. We decided to go for the 4pm showing of the Green Hornet and eat later. We struggled through the cold rain the short distance to the cinema and settled in for a very mediocre movie. Our alternate was to watch the King’s Speech which in hindsight would have been the better choice. However, we felt a drama could wait for DVD while an action movie was best watched on the big screen. It passed the time.

We ended up eating in the food court in the cinema complex where we had a good sized curry for a very reasonable price. We ended up spending the rest of the evening in the hotel room with a bottle of wine watching another movie.

This morning we took the ferry to the south island. There were warnings of an uncomfortable ride with 4 meter swells. The ferry did swing around a bit but nothing like we’ve got used to in similar conditions.

Just before arriving in Picton we gave Jackie and Gary a call on Inspiration Lady as we knew they could be in the area. It turned out they were and were glad to meet up for lunch – as were we. It was nice to meet them and hear what they’ve been up to for the last month. In fact we had a pretty good feeling all round. A lot of that had to be the sunshine which greeted us in the south island.

After lunch we headed off in the direction of the Abel Tasman National Park where we intend to hike soon. We’ve stopped off at a Top 10 campsite and pitched the tent. We plan on relaxing a little tomorrow and use the time to make up our minds what to do in the park.

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