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Another Busy Day

We started the morning fully unloading the car. This enabled me to load the main table top and take it round to the upholsters to have it traced onto the new fabric. After that I drove to the New World to collect some more bottles of Merlot that passed our previous day’s tasting and to pick up a couple of Chardonnays to prime the tasting pipeline.

After parking the car in the free but further away car park I returned to the boat to get on with some online stuff I needed to catch up on. Helen was progressing with the dark arts of cleaning and sorting out the boat.

One thing I hadn’t mentioned in our blog from two days ago is that we had received some mail while we were away. Two pieces in fact. One was a speeding ticket from the morning we took the boys to the airport and one was a final reminder as we’d passed the due date. So my next chore was to walk into town and to pay off the fine. I was able to pay by Eftpos using my local NZ debit card so with a quick wave of plastic the fine was paid for.

Back at the marina office I checked for our second expected parcel from the US, the one containing our new camera, some accessories and a few other sundry items. It wasn’t there but I did find more mail. I was worried it might be another speeding ticket but it turned out to be a note from customs. I gave them a call and soon it was all agreed that this was personal items for a foreign boat in transit. They were all very polite as usual which is great compared to some of the officials we’ve had to deal with in the past. I emailed them a copy of our Temporary Import Form and that, theoretically, should ease it out of their system.

By lunch we were ravenous as we’d both skipped breakfast. In the afternoon we discovered our first ‘real’ problem – more of a bloody annoyance. I’d left a printer ink cartridge out on the side and it had obviously leaked all over the DVD case it was sitting on and the gel-coat surface beneath. They were both badly stained. The DVD case we couldn’t care about but the surface was a problem. We borrowed some On/Off from Steve on True Companions which made some difference. We’ll try applying it routinely for the next few days to see what we can accomplish. We are having some exterior gel-coat fixes done so maybe we can scrape this off and have new gel-coat applied inside too. Bugger the bother and cost.

The most memorable point of the day came around 3pm. This was my underwater excursion to check and scrape the props. It took me nearly an hour to find all the gear that we’d last used many months ago. 3pm was a good time as the tide had been coming in for 4 hours. The water was still murky but I felt it may be cleaner than an outbound tide with all the liveaboards and fishing boats upstream of us. Also, being nearer high tide there was less chance of kicking up the bottom silt. Finally, at 3pm the sun was still reasonably high to help with the poor visibility.

With Helen keeping and eye out for problems and to assist I lowered by self into the water with my tank on. It wasn’t as cold as I feared but the visibility was less than a foot. I could not even see the rudders from the back step. I carefully made my way forward not wanting to rub against the barnacle encrusted hull. Once I found the rudder I was able to follow it to the prop. It was a mess. There was aboard a cm of barnacle on each face of each blade and a whole mess at the hub. Because we’d been turning the props a lot of the barnacles had been washout out of their shells but were still encrusted onto the props. It took a lot of effort to scrape them all off. Worse still, the gunk coming off the props reduced the visibility further making the whole job trying, particularly as I was also trying to avoid getting my skin scraped off on the barnacle invested surroundings. In the end I came out of the ordeal with barely a scratch. Glad to be connected to shore water I showered for a long time to rid myself of the river ooze.

The boat behind us, Endless, was due to leave to dock at 4pm. Bryan and Jodon from El Regalo were helping out. I shared our experience with them in case they ran into similar difficulties. Forewarned they too found very little action from their props. At one point, when they’d reached the main river they looked like they were having difficulty maneuvering the boat but they managed it. I’ve shared our experience with many others now so folks can take appropriate action.

Once all cleaned up and the excitement over I headed over to Sea Mist to borrow a disk drive with some files on. I was plied with a couple of beers for my trouble (how can I complain). On leaving I ran into Bert on Boree and had a chat with him. It feels like we’ve fallen right back into our old groove.

Dinner was refried left over Chinese from the night before which always tastes better than it sounds. We finished the evening chatting with Rob and Ruth on Albatross III just the other side of the dock from us. Both our boats are work in progress so it ended up with each of us sitting on our own decks and chatting across the divide.

First Day Back

With 9 days to haul out we have more than enough time to get the things done on the boat that we want to do. We both agreed and looked forward to taking it easy for a bit. This traveling lark takes it out of us.

After writing yesterdays blog I spent some time organizing all my various to do lists into one so that nothing would get missed. I also fired off some emails to the folks replacing our old, rusty (left in Palmerston) chain to get it here before we left. Helen started cleaning. Once my list was done and breakfast consumed I took the dinghy ashore to discuss options for coming alongside the dock. Outside the marina office I bumped into Ruth from Albatross III who we’d met from time to time across the Pacific. I also ran into Brian from El Regallo who was passing by. For dockage, we were given a couple of options along the cat dock finger which I left till later so that Helen could be involved in the choice. What I did determine was that we had to wait until early afternoon before the tide would be high enough before we come in.

Now that I knew we’d be on the dock that day it was off to meet the folks doing work for us to see how things were progressing, to let them know we were in town and see if they needed anything from us.

First stop was the upholsterers where we’re having a new table cover made and the helm seat made more comfortable. They had recently started work on the old table cover. On looking at the underside they’d noted it hadn’t fitted properly. The best thing to do would be to get the table top to trace an outline. I said I could bring it round in the afternoon once we’d docked.

Next stop was the sail maker who happened to be right round the back. I decided to drive around so I would know for future reference how to get there although I could have just walked out the back door of the upholsterers. Here we discussed where we were with things. While we were on the move I’d contacted them about our main deciding to increase the sail area by going for a flat topped sail. He wanted to visit the boat to take some more measurements but is now glad we’ll be on the dock. He’ll be visiting later in the week.

I next parked the car in the free car park near the marina and walked into town to find somewhere to fix my watch strap. I eventually found a jeweler who could facilitate a call to Casio to see if the repair could be done and how much. I left them my details for their call back to me.

By the time I was back on the boat Helen had almost completely sanitized every surface in our cabin. In mind mind the boat was already fairly clean but Helen, while tolerant of all sorts of grubbiness outside of the home, likes to live in spotless conditions and the bedroom come first. She’d done a good job.

We agreed to have sushi for lunch and pay a surprise visit to Sea Mist who are still here as a result of John injuring his knee just after we left south. We grabbed our sushi and drove round to the park near where Sea Mist is docked to eat it. I managed to flip soy sauce and wasabi all over my legs which left me less than pleased. I didn’t mind the mess but it meant I had less to dip my sushi into. Helen kindly gave me some of hers.

Next stop was Sea Mist. John, Cheryl and Ian were all there and it was good to meet up. We spent a couple of hours there talking about all sorts of things including possibilities of a wedding for someone we all know in May in Fiji. More details on that when it happens.

Time was passing and the boat had to be moved so we pulled ourselves away and headed back. The berth we chose was the one (of the two available) furthest from the finger access. Further to go but less foot traffic going past the boat. We would be right opposite Albatross III. While we were dinghying past we asked Rob and Ruth to stand by to lines as we came in.

As soon as we were aboard we raised the dinghy and checked the boats systems. All seemed well. The tide was still coming in so the prop wash was less apparent than normal when I tested them. Everything seemed to be working well so we set up the lines and fenders. We then cast off from the pilings and headed out into the river.

It was here that it became apparent that our props weren’t grabbing the water as they should. I’d noticed earlier a lot of barnacles on the hulls. Almost certainly, our props are festooned with them after three months up this river. On the upside we were near to high tide and the wind wasn’t too strong. I’d just have to be a lot more careful as we didn’t have the push to get out of any mistakes. Just in case I did ask Helen to make sure the anchor windlass was in operation. It was ok and we didn’t actually need it in the end. Always good to be sure our backup options are working before they’re needed.

Our berth was between the finger and the shoreside bushes. Not knowing what the weather would be like when we had to leave I decided it would be best to reverse in which was more awkward. The conditions were good enough to allow me to do this even with the handicap of the barnacled (presumed) props. It did turn out to be more awkward than I anticipated. The margin between us and the other boats I had to pass and the bush was not a lot and I sorely missed having sufficient torque to twist the boat neatly but we managed it. As ever, folks aboard the boats there came out to help and push if necessary. Not a lot of pushing was necessary and I was able to use the incoming tide and wind to our advantage and we eventually made it in without too much fuss.

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Once alongside the dock we adjusted all the lines so we were happy and connect to dock water supply. Over the last couple of months we’ve had the watermaker self cleaning and our on board water supplies were low. Once connected I tried using the shore supply to feed the water maker but it wasn’t providing the flow necessary and the water maker was cutting out with a low pressure alarm as if the input was blocked. Part of the problem is I’d put clean filter in before we left so the internals were passing water easier and faster than before. I also figured that during the day the water pressure would be lower than perhaps in the evening. I abandoned these efforts and let Helen do her first wash.

While she got on with that I started unloading the car. I also picked up a parcel from the marina office which contained some spares for the generator. I want to switch out the heat exchanger as the thread for the sacrificial zinc is mauled and I believe it may have flow issues. I’d ordered a replacement from the US as it was half the price. As it had arrived I called the local Onan guy who we’d had aboard in January and booked him to come on the boat. He’s now due aboard either Friday or early next week.

Having half emptied the car we now realized it was past five and we were knackered. We called it a day there and then and decided to go out to the supermarket, buy in a few more bottles of wine for Fiji (something we’ll be doing every day now) and pick up a chinese takeaway. This was eaten on the back of the boat. Our sample bottle was sampled and enjoyed and we now know what we’re buying today.

After dinner I again tried the water maker. This time we had sufficient pressure to feed it from the dock supply and filled the starboard tank before stopping it so we could shower. The really neat thing is that our water tanks are now filled with water down at around 2-3 parts per million which is very, very clean. Fortunately our foot pump in the galley draws from the tanks while the rest of the boat draws from the dock supply. That means we have abundant water to shower / wash but have easy access to almost pure water to drink. Lovely.

In between all this I know we did one or two other things but I forget. It hardly changes the picture of the day. It was not the relaxing day we’d promised ourselves except for the couple of hours aboard Sea Mist. I didn’t get to drop the table top off to be traced and now, today, I have the job of cleaning the props. Yach.

Arrowtown/Queenstown

We had a bit of a lie in before leaving our motel. Partly due to the comfort. Mostly due to finishing off things on the internet. With the advice of our eldest, John, I’ve bought a better camera to work underwater. Long term blog readers may have noticed the far better quality of his underwater pics compared to mine and I want to do better (than my old ones).

Our plan was to drive to Arrowtown and then on to Queenstown to find a campsite. After leaving Wanaka I noticed that we were pretty low on fuel. We decided to keep going and chance it. I ended up feeling quite nervous as the road took us up into the clouds over a kilometer from sea level. There was a view point at the top but it was like the inside of a ping pong ball and I didn’t want to risk running out of fuel. Our GPS listed the nearest fuel station as being near Queenstown so we postponed Arrowtown and went straight for the fuel.

Now that we were in the Queenstown area we checked out a couple of holiday campgrounds there and after finding them a bit too crowded we headed out to the top 10 near the shotover river. This campsite was far better and up in the mountains so be booked a spot and put the tent out to air.

We then drove to Arrowtown and found it as quaint as we’d been told by many others who had encouraged us to go there. We had pies for lunch and then wandered around for a while. As the weather was perfect we decided to go for a nearby hike. On the way we saw a couple coming towards us waving madly. I took me a second to realize they were waving as and then a second more to realize it was Brian and Jodon from El Regalo who we’d first met out in Fakarava. What a nice surprise. We sat on a bench chatting for a while and catching up. They’d just been on the same hike we were heading for. They were moving around by bus and soon had to catch their’s. We exchanged phone numbers in case we can hook up again.

Our hike was a 2-3 hour loop around German Hill called Sawpit Gully – Arrow Gorge track. This was a very enjoyable hike albeit with a strenuous climb to begin with. Against Brian’s advice we went clockwise to get the steep climb over and done with and have a more leisurely descent. The high point of the hike didn’t quite reach the peak of German Hill. Helen and I had different oppinions on whether or not we should take the side trail to the top. We ended up with Helen seeking shade while I took to the summit.

We soon met up again and made our way down. The scenery was, as ever it seems round here, fantastic. We met an English couple by a waterfall and chatted for a while before heading down to town. After picking up some supplies in the supermarket we headed back to the campsite and set up all the bedding, chairs and tables in the tent before cracking open a beer for our pleasure.

Fakarava Village

There was little wind to speak of yesterday and once underway we were reluctant to stop so we made it all the way to the village. No surprise but there were quite a few boats in the anchorage of which we recognised most.

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We were soon connected to the internet and struggling through the slowness of it all to get a few things done. Two of the key tasks were to book Ben’s flight to join us (now set for July 13th) and Sam’s flight to South Africa to visit his family there.

Later we went ashore to have a look around. We bumped into Jackie from Jackster who was on a similar mission to ourselves. We found Gunther who provides free visits to his pearl farm and set up a trip for the next day (this afternoon). We then visited the dive shop and set up a dive for this morning on the incoming current at the northern pass.

We parted company with Jackie and headed down the main drag (such that it was) and visited the three stores along the way picking up some rather overheated croissants left over and some raisin bread. Outside one of the stores we met Brian and Jodon from El Regallo who we’d known from the radion. It was nice to meet and get to know them. Soon we were back aboard internetting again before settling down to sleep.

This morning I was ashore at 6am to pick up fresh baguettes and croissant for breakfast. Shortly before 8am John and I dinghied to the dive shop for our dive – Helen wanting to pass on this one as it was a little technical. We met the Jacksters there as well as John and Ian from Sea Mist along with some others who we didn’t know. It didn’t take long to get out to the dive site 5nm away in their powered RIB. We were separated into groups of 4 with a dive master with each group. Our group went second. We were dropped into the water and had to head down fairly quickly lest we be swept beyond our target in the strong currents.

Our first stop at around 110ft was on the rising reef. Here we saw thousands of fish and hundreds of sharks all milling around each in their own place in the food chain starting with the small life being swept up over the reef by the current. We soon hand to handed over to coral to a spot about 90ft deep where we waited another 10 minutes before letting go. We were swept over the reef and through some canyons for around 10 minutes before arriving at a dip in the reef called Ali Baba where sharks and fish took refuge from the current. The other two divers in our group were running low on air and needed extra from the dive master. Presumably they’d not been able to relax in the deep part of the dive and used up too much air.

Forty minutes into the dive it was time to rise and take a 5 minute safety stop to allow some of the nitrogen to fizz off. After that we were on the surface being picked up by the RIB. A great dive.

Back ashore it was back to internetting, this time ordering parts to be sent to Ben to bring to the boat in a months time.

This afternoon we went back ashore to visit the pearl farm. We didn’t get the full show as the technicians were out in the lagoon fixing things but we were shown an oyster being opened and a black pearl within. We also had explained the whole pearl making process which was pretty interesting. The end of the trip, inevitably, was where we could buy some pearls. Helen found one she liked and John bought a few.

That’s about it. The wind has been non-existant today and the lagoon consequently flat. From others I understand the forecast for the next few days is about the same. We’ll stay here until our online work is done and then head to Toau even if we have to motor.

In the meantime I’ve put together our tracks of our big crossing and our stay in the Marquesas. You’ll have to zoom out to see the bigger crossing.


View 2010 Marquesas in a larger map

With any minutes left I’ll try and uploading some more pictures.