Last Day in Bora Bora / Maupiti

On Monday morning we loaded the dinghy with our dive tanks and set off round the corner to the hotel/dive shop where we could get them filled with air. Unfortunately noone was there who could fill them so our plan to pick them up on the way back from shopping had to be shelved. We left them there and went to the store for our last last few things and returned to the boat.

We still had time to pick up the tanks later and dive outside the pass. However Ben’s rashes were spreading and getting worse. Also my toe, with the nail now mostly off, was looking as though it should stay clear of the water. So we canceled our plans to go diving and chose instead to ready ourselves to leave Bora Bora and also look for some steroids to relieve Ben’s rashes.

In the afternoon we moved the boat round the corner to the fuel dock where we replaced the small amount of fuel used since Tahiti and refilled one of our gasoline cans. We anchored nearby and Ben and I went ashore to look for some steroids and get a bit more cash as the fuel station wouldn’t take a credit card. We managed to get a pack of the right pills for Ben for about $5 – a fraction of what they would cost in the US. We then picked up the dive tanks and loaded them aboard Dignity.

As it was gusty we decided to spend the evening anchored behind the island of Toopua about a mile north of where we anchored the first time in Bora Bora.

By 7am we were off on our way to Maupiti. As we passed we said Au Revoir to John on Sea Mist who was anchored nearby. It was dead downwind all the way so we sailed wing on wing the entire trip jibing to reverse the configuration about half way. With my new knots I had renewed hope of landing some fish so we had two lines out. We had three tugs on the lines dropping our nut alarms and on one of these occasions I saw a huge mahi mahi leaping out of the water before the line went slack. I reeled in the lure. The knot had held but the hooks had bent. I need stronger hooks now.

The good news was that the steroids were having a good effect on Ben’s rashes making his life a lot more bearable. Less good, while messing with the fishing stuff I managed to drop one of the reels and the edge of it landed right on my nailless big toe end. That hurt and drew blood. I kept my composure – just.

The pass at Maupiti was interesting. It flows out to sea continuously and the current varies between 3 and 5 knots apparantly with the least flow just before midday. We arrived shortly after this. Our charts were off by about 200ft but the visual cues were spot on. Following the range markers in we found ourselves in flat water flowing out at just under 3 knots. We motored in and up the marked channel and anchored just outside the main village.

We dinghied ashore and walked up and down the main street. There really was not a lot there – just homes, a fast food place, a close restaurant and a closed store. There was a bicycle rental place which we may consider using.

Back on the boat we prepared for BBQing some ribs we’d picked up. While pulling out the propane tank for the grill I knocked over a full can (ie – heavy) of acetone. Guess what it landed on. Yup – my bloody toe. I yelled. I screamed. It was excruciating. Blood started welling up through the plaster I had over it and dripping everywhere. I was not happy. I distracted myself with the maths. It’s not often one drops something on ones foot. What are the odds you drop two things on your foot in one day and each time it lands on the one toe that’s just lost it’s nail. One in a million? I must be paying back for something bad I’ve done.

Dinner was delicious. We watched a movie and a documentary together. Beer and ibuprofin didn’t quite dull the stabbing pains running through my foot but I managed to sleep in the end. Hopefully things won’t get any worse.

We’ll be staying here for a few days. There’s not much to do but it looks like a front will be coming over in a couple of days and we don’t want to be out at sea for that. We may move nearer to the pass for a change of scene and maybe some time in the water. There is supposed to be a manta ray cleaning station near there which would be nice to see before we go. Next stop will be Aitutaki in the Southern Cooks – if the wind is right. We may end up in Rarotonga if it’s not.