Wind

There’s not enough of it and it’s coming from right behind us. At least we have our new Code Zero. Otherwise we’d be pulling our hair out. The wind also can’t decide where to come from. For a while it was coming from the north east. We’ve jibed the Code Zero three times today getting better at it each time.

We need to make an average of 5.7 knots to reach Aitutaki by dusk tomorrow. We’re currently doing 5 in just over twice that of wind. Fortunately this one can be approached after dusk but we’d prefer not to. I’ve put some beers in the fridge just in case we’re in the mood when we arrive.

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Water

The winds died somewhat overnight giving us perfect Code Zero weather – had it been light. We weren’t going to hoist it at night given our earlier experiences. Dinner was, you guessed it, mahi mahi.

This morning we hoisted the new Code Zero for the first time and managed to pick up some decent speed as well as being able to regenerate for a while. Given that we were long on electricity I decided to run the watermaker to top up our tanks. Not long after the bilge alarm was wailing. I checked the bilge to find water pouring in from the water maker. We quickly shut things down and closed off the sea cock. Water was coming from the high pressure housing on the clark pump. It could be simple, it could be nasty. I won’t know until we’re anchored and I can remove the main unit.

Otherwise all is well.

Later… Code Zero was furled after 4-5 hours of use as the wind picked up. For a while we had to reef the main. Progress remains good. Fingers crossed for arrival on the 17th.

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En Route to Aitutaki

A small highlight for Friday was when John from Tyee popped over and offer to take Ben wake boarding. This is a bit like water skiing but on a single small board. Ben took to it very quickly and was soon circling the boat weaving from side to side.

This morning, at 7am, we were off. We retrieved the anchor/chain from amongst the coral heads it had wrapped up in and headed out into the channel. There was about 2 knots of current heading out into an opposing sea swell which made for a very bumpy exit. We didn’t reach stable water until about half a mile out where we hoisted sails and have been sailing ever since.

The waters seem quite active. It didn’t take long before we’d lost two more lures. I was beginning to wonder if we’ll ever catch another fish when we snagged a mahi mahi which we not only landed but kept. It weighed in at 20lb making it the largest mahi mahi we’ve landed. It’s size made it quite awkward to handle on the back step. By the time we had it bled out there was blood everywhere from it’s thrashings. We had to use some rum to quieten it down which I don’t really like to do as it slows the heart down and lessens the bleeding out.

We’ve made good time today with the strong winds. They’ve recently clocked round more to the east and slackened off. We have an opportunity to arrive by the 17th if we don’t lose any more wind. One less overnight passage will please all aboard.

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Waiting for the weather window / Swimming with the mantas

Thursday morning we saw dive/tour boats come to the pass to let folks snorkel with the mantas. We hung back hoping to have less of a crowd later on. When we did go Helen decided to pass on it as the waves had picked up and it was a bit choppy. Ben and I headed out and managed to find one large manta ray but couldn’t keep up for long.

In the afternoon we all went out to the nearby motu to walk all the way around. As we approached the outer reef Ben and I were assessing the place for possible places to go lobster hunting after dark. We made it all the way around the motu and back to the dinghy. We next went to the pass to let Helen swim around looking for the mantas but she had no luck. Final stop was to head out to near of the mouth of the pass to look at the reef opposite to were we had been walking. Ben and I thought this was more promising and waypointed the cut through the reef using the hand held GPS.

After dinner and movie that evening Ben and I headed out in the dark. Finding our way through the reef in the dinghy was a little trickier than we’d anticipated but we made it. We had no luck hunting for lobsters though and thoughts of a banquet gave way to hopes for perhaps just an aperitif. But that was not to be.

This morning our fortune turned. We woke to find almost no wind and almost flat waters. We first attacked our much postponed project to tart up the ragged bits of our head sail. Once this was done and the net was over we headed out to the pass to look for mantas. And mantas we found. The were a few circling a particular rock seemingly unconcerned with snorklers around them. At times we were able to swim down to the bottom at 25ft or so and just hang out while they swam over us with their mouths gaping wide. The largest was about 8ft across which makes for a big beastie – all the more impressive when they appear to be all mouth.

Just before lunch Ben spent an hour giving some of the boat kids from Kamaya, Tyee and the nearby French boat a maths lesson. All about Pi. I think they enjoyed it – particularly having a change from their parents as teachers.

This afternoon we’ve been cleaning the hull ready for our departure. The key thing is waiting for the right weather window. Oddly the downloadable GRIB weather forecasts have been remaining remarkably consistent and tomorrow (Saturday) looks to be the right day to go. We’ll start with southerly winds which may make exiting the pass tricky. This will allow us to push west before the trade winds reestablish themselves giving us a better line to Aitutaki. That’s the plan. We’ll see how it plays out. If all goes well, next blog will be at sea.

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Hike / Motu Pitiahe

After the morning net we dinghied ashore with a view to walking around the island. It’s about 6 miles all told and a paved road all the way. Despite the previous days disruption to the well being of my big toe I figured I was up for it. I’m glad we went as it was a very pleasant hike. At point point we crested a low saddle where we had great views to the south and north. There we bumped into John, Lucy and the kids from Tyee who were bicycling around the island. They’ve been here for two weeks enjoying being off the beaten path and the safety of the lagoon where they’ve been kite boarding practically every day.

Back aboard we made final use of the internet before grabbing a bite to eat and then moving south to the anchorage behind the motu by the pass. Tyee were anchored there with a couple of other boats. Sea Mist and Kamaya were just arriving. Endless Summer had also arrived but were coming up to the town. We waved and chatted as we passed each other.

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Lucy from Tyee had organised a beach party – mainly for the kids – but also for the adults. At 5:30pm we all started heading ashore. The folks on the French catamaran had gathered firewood and had already started a fire – an essential part of any beach party. We brought beers to quaff. Costa Rican beers. Although we’re still in French Polynesia we feel reasonably safe breaking into one of our bonded lockers to access our treasured supplies there.

We ended up staying quite late on the beach chewing the cud as usual. The stars were out and it was supposed to be a good night for watching the Perseid meteors. When we returned to the boat Ben and I spent some time stargazing but saw very little sign of increased meteor activity.

Today we plan to swim with the manta rays that are supposed to be easy to spot here.

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