Another day in Quepos

Still in our bumpy anchorage the weather has turned a little grey. Two evenings ago we did an evening wash and took the rare opportunity to run the air cons on the boat, principally to drive the moisture out but we enjoyed the coolness all the same. As we had all the doors and windows shut we missed our usual splashing cue to raise the dinghy and for perhaps the first time left it hanging off the back of the boat. Overnight there was a lot of rain so we ended up with our own little paddling pool off the back of the boat.

In the morning I popped over to Callisto to see if they were interested in sundowners that evening, which they were. Mike had found problems with his water maker control board, another result of their near lightening strike. To get his watermaker going he needed a few simple electrical connectors which I had spare and gave him.

Helen and I then went ashore for lunch, paperwork and shopping. We took the camera and took a few pics around town which you can see below. Lunch ended up being a shared pizza. We then walked a mile or so to the port captains office to get our onward national zarpe (clearance papers). Turned out they wanted some more copies of our passport pictures which we had to get back in town. We returned to town, took five copies of each passport for luck, then went shopping for a few groceries. We took the groceries back to Dignity and I headed back to make my second visit to the port captains office.

Mike, Anne and Joanne from Callisto joined us for sundowners and it ended up being a fairly late evening for all of us. All very pleasant.

This morning we’re expecting to meet up with Helen’s ex-colleague Jason who will stay with us for a day. We’ll probably head over to Manuel Antonio Park to anchor there and take a walk around in the morning. This is pretty close to Callisto’s near lightening strike. We’re hoping lightening doesn’t strike the same place twice.

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Quepos

The motor up to Quepos was uneventful. We caught a fish along the way but that’s hardly news these days. We are, however, looking forward to Ben’s visit in two weeks as a couple of the items he is bringing are books to help us identify the fish we’re catching and which ones are good to eat.

Hoping to find an anchorage sheltered from the swells we were soon disappointed. There was one other boat here. We were soon greeted by the owner, Mike, who was on his way to pick up his wife and guest from the shore. Turned out he had been close to a lightening strike a few days earlier and was now immobilized due to his engine electronics being fried. When he returned with Anne, his wife, and Joanne, their friend, we invited them aboard to learn more about the area. Before we left for town we agreed to meet later in the day for tea and to have a look at his GPS which was also causing problems.

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In town John booked his following day bus to San Jose so he could pick up Ella, his girlfriend. We ate lunch and bought a few bits and pieces in a supermarket before leaving John ashore so he could explore.

Helen and I went back to the boat through the increasing chop. Later I picked up John before Helen and I went over to Callisto for afternoon tea. I was able to help Mike out diagnosing which specific piece of equipment had developed a fault as a result of the lightening strike.

Today John has left on the bus. Helen is cleaning the boat and I am wrestling with the internet. I’ve given up trying to do anything productive from the boat and am now sitting in a cafe in Quepos to get things done. I’ve managed to upload pics since Golfito. Enjoy.

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Dominicalita

John and I, being keen to make up for the previous days missed dive, headed out in the dinghy to survey the nearby rocky outcrop to see if we could find a suitable dive spot. After some searching we found an area where the rocks came to the surface where fish congregated although it was quite murky.

The prospects for this dive were not for Helen’s liking so just the two of us headed back out with our dive gear. Our dive lasted about 30 mins which was about enough given the murkiness of the water. Back at Dignity I used my remaining air to give the props and the shafts a good scraping as they’d begun to get a little hairy.

While we were away Helen had decided she’d had enough of the rolliness of the anchorage so checking our guides we decided to head about 10nm north to an anchorage called Dominicalita. The winds were sub 5 knots so we motored our way up there.

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Here we rested for a while before Helen and I took the dinghy ashore. It didn’t look too tricky but as we approached the shore a wave picked us up from behind and soon we were in the surf sideways and we were lucky not to tip over, all to the amusement of some local fishermen. We dragged the dinghy up the beach which was occupied by many vultures, presumably hanging around for the scraps of fish brought in by the fishermen.

We didn’t spend too long wondering around. We found a restaurant which could be access by dinghy, we thought, at very high tide which we weren’t sure if we wanted to visit later. Back on the beach we met a couple of American’s from Tennessee who were visiting their son who lives here. We chatted for a while before heading back to the boat.

This time the surf presented us with more difficulties. It took us two attempts to get deep enough to push us further out with the motor down. We then had to crash through two breaking waves and climb a third. This last wave was just about to break so the dinghy climbed up steeply and dropped over the top sending Helen airborne. She managed to land in the dinghy but bashed her knee painfully. This squashed any plans to return to the shore as we didn’t want to repeat that exercise, particularly in the dark.

Today we’re off to Quepos where we’ll stay for a few days. John will head off to San Jose tomorrow to meet his girlfriend, Ella, at the airport and stay in town for a few days. An old work colleague of Helen’s will meet us on Saturday and stay for a day. Then we’ll head off again but we’re not yet totally decided on which way.

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Isla del Cano

We left Bahia Drake in good time arriving at Isla del Cano shortly after 9am. We took the dinghy ashore to the ranger station to pay our park fees and learn about which dive sites we could explore. Disappointingly we learned we were not allowed to dive without a local guide but we were allowed to snorkel and hike the park trail for our efforts.

We hiked the island first. There was only one trail leading from the ranger station that immediately climbed up on top of the flat topped island. The trees and foliage was quite dense and eerily quiet. We saw lizards scurrying out of the way and could hear the occasional bird but all was largely still. We came to a fork in the path and headed in the direction of the archaeological site. This turned out to be a collection of spherically carved rocks by some ancient natives to the area. We returned to the fork taking the other path which took us to a high lookout over the sea on the other side of the island. We had, on the way, tantalizingly passed near some falling water but no path descended to what could have been a refreshing dip.

Back on the beach we took to the water. The water near the beach was exceedingly murky but as we rounded some rocks it suddenly cleared revealing numerous fish in waters we could see 100ft. We stayed snorkeling for some time before eventually heading back to the beach and returning to the boat. While on the island though we had met and chatted to a local dive guide who would be willing to take us out from Drake Bay if we were to return, which is possible.

Given that we had more time remaining in the day than we had planned we decided to head off to Uvita rather than return to Drake Bay. This will reduce our distance to Quepos which we need to reach by the 24th. The area may also be conducive to some diving. Now that we have all the gear out we’re keen to follow through.

We arrived by 5pm. The nature of the place is that it gets quite swelly when the tide is high but settles down in between. There is a 2.5 mile beach which extends out to some rocks at low tide. All good for exploration.

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A day aboard

Yesterday was one of those days where we never put the dinghy into the water. They are rare but they happen from time to time. I managed to extend the connectivity of my GPS units. I’d bought a couple of switches in Panama City which I used so that I could GPS connectivity between either of my two handheld GPSs or the chart plotter. Now I can select which one routes through to the PC and the radios. I’m saying radios as I’ve not fed the selected GPS signal into the SSB as well as the VHF so either unit can send out the GPS coordinates if we activate the emergency signal. This all means I have a lot more redundancy on the navigation side. I can keep the two mobile GPS units in the microwave so we’ll always have some level of backup. As ever with boat projects what seemed simple took hours.

Helen spent some time reordering and moving some of our supplies around. John tried his hand at fishing from the boat but had no luck.

Today our plan is to head off to Isla Canos for some diving and return here before dark.

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