Los Testigos

We made to to Los Testigos and anchored off Testigo Grande albeit not without incident.

Having put all the lines out (three of them with Ballyhoo attached) at dawn I had hopes for a catch. We were pleasantly surprised to be joined by dolphins which stayed with us for two and a half hours. If we had any chance of a catch beforehand, being surrounded by a top predator certainly didn’t improve our chances.

We marveled at the hundreds of frigate birds soaring above Conjo island before the wind again died on us. We engaged the electric motors for a mild assist before deciding to bring in the lines as we came around the south side of Testigo Grand.

As I was sat on the starboard transom reeling in the first line I looked over my shoulder only to see us about to pass over a large fender. I yelled at Helen who was on watch to cut the motors which she did just in time. We weren’t that lucky though because the boat ground to a halt with no sign of the fender behind us.

I threw a line of the stern, put on my face mask and snorkel and jumped in to assess. The fender tied to a stout rope had jammed between the rudder and the propeller. With a 2-3 knot current trying to push us north and the wind also behind us and the sails still up it was not going to move. Further more, the three remaining fishing lines and their lures, with sharp hooks, were getting all tangled.

I first disentangle the lures and lines which were dumped in the cockpit without proper spooling. We then lowered the head sail (perhaps we should have done this first) but the main could not be lowered with the wind behind us. I went in the water again, fighting the swell and current, to tie a modified clove hitch to the rope using one of our dock lines. The other end of this went over a winch. Whenever we had slack Helen winched us in while I kept the lines clear. We soon created enough slack for me to go down yet again and remove the fender and rope from our rudder/prop. It was saddening to see the damage to our lovely new paint job down there. Having removed this I had to make yet another submersion to retrieve my safety line which had now tangled itself round the same prop.

We tried for a while to reverse Dignity enough to loosen our dock line from the rope attaching the original floating fender to whatever was on the sea floor. To no avail so rather than risk having a nasty accident with tight lines I cut our dock line close to the knot losing about 3 feet in doing so. We were free. And a little exhausted.

We quickly lowered the main and motored round the corner to where we are now anchored.

Having lowered the dinghy I dinghied over to Iguana Island to clear in at the coast guard station. My first challenge there came when I passed a couple of guys looking to carry a large fridge up the dunes/hill to the school at the top. I had to offer to help but boy was it difficult and painful on the fingers. Next stop was the coast guard station to obtain permission to stay. My ‘Spanish for Cruisers’ bridged the gap between my lack of Spanish and their lack of English. I believe we ended up with permission to stay in these islands for two days. That’s more than we need.

Back on the boat Helen had sorted out the mess from two of our hand lines and I got to untangle the last. We had lunch then collapsed for some well needed rest.

We’ve decided to do not a lot this afternoon and stay the night here. In the morning we’ll try and climb the nearby hill for the exercise and the alleged great view from the top. We’ll then head north and anchor at the top end of the island. An early night to bed followed by a very early start will get us to Margarita sometime Thursday afternoon.

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Left Grenada – Breakfast with dolphins

All went very well. With a lot of help from Mike we cleared customs, picked up our gear, got it aboard Dignity (two dinghy trips) and filled our propane tanks. One last goodbye to Jim, a final provisioning and we were off shortly before 5pm. I did put out the first set of ballyhoos but we didn’t catch anything before we hauled the lines back in when it went dark. We didn’t reach where I really wanted to fish as the winds fell to about 10 knots. A couple of times overnight we ended up motoring due to light winds but most of the night we have sailed.

Los Tostegas is currently in sight. For the last hour or two we’ve been followed by dolphins. At one point, while having breakfast, we were surrounded by about 30.

Winds are still fairly light but we’re managing to sail.

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Cricket

The main event, at least for me, was going to see the “Classic” cricket match in the afternoon. Helen decided to stay aboard and clean up some more while I picked up Jim from Bees Knees to go to see the match. I have to admit as an Englishman this was the first cricket match I have ever watched live and the first I’ve ever watched all the way through. It was a match of 20 overs each so it was not going to be too long a game.

I must also confess to not recognizing most of the names. As far as I could tell there was no match pamphlets so I had to capture the names by taking photos of the score board. The World IX included Andrew Caddick, Stuart Law, Niall O’Brien, Rob Bailey, Craig White, Derek Randall, Devon Malcolm, Peter Such and Nick Cook. The West Indies included Winston Benjamin, Vasbert Drakes, Raul Lewis, Phil Simmons, Keith Arthurton, Sir Viv Richards, F Stephenson and Andre Fletcher. Viv Richards (batsman in picture to right) was about the most recognizable name to me but some of the rest were familiar.

The game concluded with the West Indies beating the World IX by 5 wickets. After the match Jim and I walked back to our dinghy and I dropped him off at the dock where he is now moored again ready to fly to the US next week. Shortly he joined us aboard Dignity for a farewell dinner. Most of the friends we have made down the islands have left Grenada now, Jim is one of the first and last so this was a special Au Revoir. Helen as usual cooked a fine curry which was enjoyed all round.

We finished the evening looking for shooting stars followed by watching an episode of “The Fringe” which we’ve just go into.

That may have been our last evening in Grenada for some time. It all now depends on our being able to get hold of our consignment in time.

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Hybrid Sailing

Yesterday was our first proper sail since splashing. Until now we have been motoring the short distances from anchorage to anchorage. Our battery banks were all topped up and the wind was around 14 knots so we had the opportunity for the perfect hybrid sail. This meant we motored out of Prickly Bay silently on the batteries, hoisted the sail, sailed round to St Georges, dropped the sails then motored to our new anchorage silently again on batteries. If we were really, really good sailors we’d weigh and drop anchor without any power but unless we have to, we won’t try that with others around.

First outing of the day was to the local fishing tackle shop – one run by local fisherman. The chap there was more than happy to help. He first took me over the road to the fish market to pick up some ballyhoo for bait. He then showed my how to rig one. We then went through the various hooks I could use and plastic squids. We went straight back to the boat to put the ballyhoo in the freezer, wrapped in sets of three in newspaper.

Next I went to Island Water World to pick up some more 5200 compound so we could fix the final stern bumper rail.

We managed to complete a few small tasks in the afternoon. We fixed hooks in the dive locker so we can now hang our BCDs and regulators. Helen fixed the stern rail while I adjusted the lazy bag and installed the second reef (twice cos I ran the line incorrectly the first time). A few other minor items that escape me.

Today the weather is glorious. The wind has died and the seas gone crystal clear. We are going to watch the cricket this afternoon which should be fun. Its an older players game and should include some famous names from England and the West Indies. This evening were having dinner with Jim as this may be our last night on the island. It will be a special goodbye as Jim was one of the first friends we made back in St Martin and once we leave here our paths will likely take a very long time to recross.

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Shore side BBQ

We had a good night out yesterday with Jackie and Mike at their home near Prickly Bay. Mike cooked a great BBQ. Pleasant conversation and beers were the accompanyment.

Earlier in the day Mike had helped me go into town, picking up a crate of beer along the way. We had hoped to clear our boat parts but it turned out for a number of reasons we really needed an agent. We’ve lined one up and will hopefully process and collect our parts on Monday.

Still earlier in the day Helen and I went into town, picked up my Venezuelan visa, collected our mail from Fed Ex and did a little food shopping.

Our head leak is now fixed but it keeps filling. I had thought I could get away with the old joker valve that I had tried replacing on an earlier fix. Probably not a good idea so I’m going to have to pull it apart yet again and put in the new valve that came with the new pump.

Shortly we’ll head round to St Georges and test out the sails. Wind may not be strong enough so we’ll see. Plans for seeing the cricket have been postponed til tomorrow, if we go at all.

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