Another question from a blog reader answered

Question

How does the reality of your adventure so far live up to the perception of your dream now that you’ve been living aboard for a while?

Answer

I think what you’re asking here is how does the reality of our cruising life compare to our expectations before we left. To answer that I first have to elaborate on why we chose to do this and what did we expect out of it in the first six months.

Having discussed this with Helen we both agree on the why. We left to go cruising to travel, to see new places, to have a bit of adventure, to do something different for a while. To be clear, there was no real sense of escape. While the prospect of doing something different has an element of escape we both feel tremendously fortunate to have been born at a time and place where our position in the global ‘rat race’ allowed us to eventually do what we are now doing. The ‘rat race’ got us here and maybe one day we’ll go back.

This then led to some expectations. The first six months was always meant to be our break in. We chose to sail the length of the eastern Caribbean because it was not too demanding, had good access to support in the form of maritime commerce and other sailors yet at the same time offered us some of the adventure we were looking for. We had some expectations of commercialism down the islands, perhaps high cost, and certainly not the full ‘out there’ we perhaps expect in the coming years.

We also expected some emotional highs and lows. Because of our human nature it is not possible to find a state of mind where you have constant highs. At a broad level our choice in life boils down to a life where our experiences are narrow living in a ‘safe’ band of mediocrity or a life of extremes where one swings between extreme highs and lows. Or somewhere in between. We’ve always chosen the life of highs and lows and believed up front the cruising life has this in spades.

Finally, despite all that one can read about the cruising life we really had a lot of ‘no ideas’ of what it would be like. An absence of expectation to be filled in later.

So how does it compare? We certainly have had our highs and lows. The months leading up to our departure were full of them. Making the mental commitment that we would leave in 2008 was a big high and led to a lot of excitement (and trepidation). Leaving work for both of us was both exciting and rewarding in terms of the reflections from soon to be ex-colleagues. Taking that trip around Manhattan on our new friends motor boat the day after I ‘retired’ was surreal. The despair associated with our plunging finances. The investment home that took too long to close, that turned out so filthy, seemed too much to fix, that delayed the start of our dream and sucked away the dwindling dollars to get going, brought little joy and much anguish.

The first two months of living aboard were a real emotional roller coaster. Being at the stressful end of so many learning curves, the delays to our shipment clearing in St Martin, having to get the boat ready while family visited, again while wondering if we could really afford to do this brought some dark moments. The help and companionship we had from cruisers we had never known before, having our family aboard, moments alone in realization we’d actually done this brought immense highs. The highs and the lows really exceeded what we expected and we regret none of it.

The islands themselves I think exceeded our expectations. Yes they were commercial in places but then you could also get out of this fairly easily in most places and if we didn’t like where we were we could always move on. The friendliness of the locals, the beauty of the rainforests all were a surprise. Dominica especially being strong on both of these.

I guess the biggest difference between experience and expectation (or lack thereof) comes when looking at some of the little things (in no particular order and certainly not complete):

  • The variety of sunsets at sea
  • Swimming with the sea life never getting dull
  • The excitement of (eventually) catching a fish
  • The stunning beauty of some of the places we’ve visited
  • Pinching ourselves almost daily when it feels ‘ordinary’ and you realize where you are
  • The fun of meeting new people
  • The pleasure of bumping (not literally) into old friends
  • The delight of fixing something
  • Seeing a tree which you realize is only a pot plant back home
  • Spending time in places ‘unspoilt’ by progress
  • Watching a movie with the stars overhead
  • Reading a book and not worrying about the time spent

Finally, we always expected this trip to change us. It is changing us but it’s only just begun. Where this will take us we really don’t know. We know this won’t be forever but we do expect to keep going for a few years and are more and more certain we’ll stick to our original goal of circumnavigating. What comes after the trip we have no idea and bothers us little.

We are pretty certain we’ll be heading west in October and it’s highly likely we’ll be off to the Pacific next year. Sitting here at the end of our break in session down the eastern Caribbean this seems as big an adventure as setting out in the first place. So the future remains exciting, scary, full of unknowns.

Just what we want.

Posted in Informational | Leave a comment

South of Latitude 12N

As planned, Helen was collected by Anne and went off to Yoga hosted by Devi from Arctic Tern. She came back looking all fresh and stretched having enjoyed herself. We hung around and did our calls before heading round the corner to Mt Hartman Bay where we anchored for the first time south of 12 degrees North (Helen looks at me weirdly on this point).

We had lunch then went ashore to look at Martin’s Marina and to have a walk around the peninsula that separates Prickly Bay and Mt Hartman Bay. Without a decent map we made a few wrong turns but got to see some interesting places and properties. We visited Prickly Bay Marina too which saves us taking Dignity there which we may have done tomorrow.

Our walk took us to the very end of the peninsular to Prickly Point where the fancy houses gave way to a small bit of rugged land.

One of the more interesting places we saw on the way back was a yellow castle like home. It would be cool to live in a place like that.

Tomorrow we have one more marina to look at. We’re pretty sure we’ll anchor Dignity in Prickly Bay while we’re in New Jersey. However, when we return we’re due to get our upgrade on the control board and we need a marina for a night or two. Where this will be we haven’t decided. After tomorrow we’ll have seen them all and can decide.

Tomorrow night we’re almost certain to go back to Clark’s Court Bay for their Fish and Chips evening. On Saturday there is a Grenada Hash House Harriers event planned. I hadn’t heard of the Hash Harriers before but it’s world wide. It seems to be a casual Rotary Club aimed at runners/walkers who like a beer or three. They describe themselves as drinkers with a running problem. Despite all this it is a family thing. Apart from the fact this seems to be right up our alley, this will be a good way to meet some of the indigenous population. They have a walk/run planned for Saturday afternoon so we reckon we’ll join them. They have an open invite on the VHF net every morning so we should be more than welcome.

Posted in Arctic Tern, Bees Knees, Grenada | Leave a comment

Burger Night Out

This was a lot of fun. Got to meet a bunch of folks who are either settling in for the summer or preparing to leave the Caribbean for the summer season. We bumped into the folks from Mimi and Catalyst who we last saw in Carriacou and ate our burger & fries with them. Another inexpensive night out all reinforcing our belief summer will be a lot of fun here. We bumped into Devi and Hunter from Artic Tern who we last saw on the beach in the Tobago Cays. We recognised some from last Sunday’s beach BBQ and no doubt some more of the faces will be known over time. Anne & Jim from Bees Knees were there but we all managed to find time for everyone else.

The cooks, Rene & Cherryl, who are cruisers helping out also run a fish & chips night every other Friday. If we don’t make this coming Friday we must make the one in two weeks time.

As ever, when we’re having the most fun I forget to take photos. Oops.

Today we have some calls to make and make our last on line orders for things to collect in NJ. In a few minutes Helen will be off with Anne for yoga at Clark’s Court Bay Marina hosted by Devi from Arctin Tern. Later we will move the boat to explore more of the possibilities to the west of us. Today we’ll certainly look at Mt Harmon Bay where we may stop for the night. To the west of that is Prickly Bay which is a real cruiser hub and there’s also True Blue Bay which has some moorings we could possibly use too.

Posted in Arctic Tern, Bees Knees, Catalyst, Grenada, Mimi | Leave a comment

Day Trip to St Georges

Quick synopsis of the rest of yesterday. We ran the water maker for two hours and filled our tanks. While doing this I called Spectra tech support. They decided to send us a new salinity probe free of charge plus firmware upgrade. That will go to out friends in NJ and we can take this back to the boat at the end of the month. In the afternoon the failure alarm went off again. Good job we have a new one going. Great support from Spectra. I also learned that the flush cycle continues to make water so continued fresh water flushing should eventually make battery compatible water.

In the afternoon went snorkeling. Visited a couple of nearby spots anchoring the dinghy each time. Saw a mean looking barracuda (I know – they all look mean) about 3-4 feet long.

Bees Knees turned up beside us. It seems like we’re on an elastic band. Swapped books/movies with them.

Today we took the bus into St George, the capital, with Anne and Jim. Before going we moved Dignity a little nearer to Woburn, the little town here. Bees Knees have offered to keep an eye on Dignity while we are in NJ so we invited them over to learn how to move Dignity. Don’t think they’ll need to as we’ll take a mooring ball but better to be safe than sorry.

We had a nice walk around town. Visited the market. Picked up some wine and basics. We took a look at the marina in town. Bees Knees have decided to take a dock there for the summer. We may pop in for a week or two. We want to pop down to Trinidad, maybe Venezuela, over summer so it’s not worth us booking anywhere up front.

We caught the wrong bus back to where we left our dinghies. Turns out there are two Number 2 busses. We ended up getting a bit of an island tour as a result.

Tonight we’re off to Clark’s Court Bay Marina for their burger night.

INSERT_MAP

Posted in Bees Knees, Grenada | Leave a comment

Calivigny Island

Not a lot more done yesterday. We finished of the Tuna caught a couple of weeks ago and watched ‘A Knight’s Tale’ on DVD. Another one of those implausible movies that just make you smile throughout.

This morning we listened into the Grenada Cruisers VHF net which comes on every morning except Sunday on Ch 68 at 7:30am. There seem to be many things to do on the island and the costs seem far less than further up the islands. For instance, an all day island tour costs only $25 US – much cheaper than elsewhere. There seem to be quite a few things aimed at attracting cruisers. We’re likely to go to the Clark’s Court Bay Marina burger night tomorrow.

At 8am we listened into the ‘coconut telegraph’ to see how things would be without the water maker on. In the first few seconds we were astonished as to the clarity of the signal but soon learned this was due to the net operator being in the bay next to us. However, with a bit of fiddling we were able to hear a lot more of the boats calling in than we used to so things are getting better.

After all this we shifted Dignity around to Calvigny Island and anchored right outside where we heard we could get a good internet connection and clear water to run through the water maker. We followed the markers back through the reef, the reverse route we took into the bay behind Hogs Island.

Here we ran into our first bit of trouble for a while. When I turned the water maker back on the console said “Salinity Probe Failed.” It doesn’t sound good. I don’t know if this error message is related to what we did yesterday but I can’t rule it out. So far I’ve tried the basics such as reseting the system and making sure cables are connected properly but this has not fixed the error. Given that the unit was left switched off overnight I am wondering if it could be something analogous to a ‘warming up’ issue so right now I have the unit switched on with the error flashing. The next thing is to call Spectra support but as they’re on the US west coast I’ll have to wait.

We’ll probably stay around here tonight and tomorrow as we’re essentially in Clark’s Court Bay and we may just dinghy over for the burger night out. For now it is back to troubleshooting. Later we hope to go snorkeling on the nearby reefs.

Footnote: After writing the above I went back to the water maker, switched it off then on again and now it is working. I think I’ll still call Spectra support and see if they can shed any light on this.

INSERT_MAP

Posted in Grenada | Leave a comment