Off to Grenada Mainland

Last night we went out to eat at the Lambi Queen. A lot of cruisers had turned up there as a result of a marketing exercise (someone going around in a boat earlier in the day) so it was lively. We shared a table with two other cruising couples: Gabe & Kathleen from Catalyst and Marcia & Keith from Mimi. Food was good. Company was better.

We’re off to Grenada fairly soon. We realize we’ve posted no photos of Carriacou but we will do on our return. We need to swing by early June to pick up our new dinghy cover.

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Grenada Plans

We’re having a relaxed day today just reading and hanging out. We have a timetable hanging over our head which is our May 20th flight to NJ and it feels weird to be thus constrained. However, we still have plenty of time and here’s the rough idea.

Tomorrow, probably, we’ll head south down the east coast of Grenada and duck into St David’s Harbour. The south coast of Grenada is a series of bays looking a lot like fjords on the map. We’ll then work our way west getting to know each one so we can make a firm choice of where to leave Dignity for a week. Many of these bays have different options for hanging around and we need to find an option we’re comfortable with.

The winds may be a bit strong tomorrow but we feel it would be good to get out in some wind and stretch ourselves a little. Dignity loves the wind and is in her element when the wind blows in the 20s. The moonrise and hence the currents will be in our favour for a morning sail.

Tonight we plan to eat out. One of the local restaurants is having live music tonight. It will be good to get out and see some new faces.

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Boat Boys

Recently we received the following comment from one of our blog readers :

Steve – very curious as to your experience with the “Boat Boys” – there’s been so much published, positive and negative, about encounters, particularly in the Tobago Cays – but elsewhere in the Grenadines as well – How have you made out?

I’d like to address this question.

First, for those of you who don’t know what “Boat Boys” are, let me explain. In many anchorages, perhaps most of the none-French islands south of Antigua, one is often approached by locals, always males, in boats/on surfboards selling goods and/or services. Very often one will be approached by many on a given day. Sometimes you can be met a number of miles from the anchorage by those eager to establish a relationship. What’s on sale is some combination of local fruit, garbage/laundry services, island tours, water, diesel, etc. Here in Tyrell Bay one can even get oysters. The attitude and competitiveness/aggressiveness of these guys seems to vary island by island, bay by bay.

As the commenter says – much has been written about them and peoples opinions seem to be divided. Our own experience has been pretty positive. We rarely need their services and find that if you treat them decently, give them a chance to sell their wares, be curtious and respectful, thank them for making the effort to come and see you, we find they cause no trouble at all. In the Tobago Cays they were pretty unobtrusive. In St Lucia they could be quite pushy, particularly down in Souffriere. We know boaters in the Tobago Cays who simply wanted to stay a little longer and found the guy who could bring in a little extra food a lifeline.

We do wonder why others have a negative experience with the boat boys. From talking to others our ‘conclusion’, for what it’s worth, is your experience of them is going to be driven very much by what we ourselves bring to the table. If you recognise the “boat boys” merely as local entrepreneurs who see opportunity in the huge relative wealth dangling on anchors off their shores, who are respectful for their broader reputation and their relationship with you, you will find them ok and often quite helpful. If you bring to the table western expectations and, perhaps, unfounded fears, you will not like them at all. If, through not finding them adhering to your imported and non local standards, you are rude to or brusk with them, it is not surprising they may treat you in kind.

In Portsmouth, we made good use of Alexis to help organize shore side tours. While it is evident he was trying to make the best deal for himself he also didn’t push services on us he knew we didn’t want and he was quick to offer helpful information to us. In the end he became another of our temporary cruising friends and we delighted in having him and his girlfriend aboard for dinner before we left.

A little more troubling sometimes are those around the periphery. In some areas you’ll find people, often children, willing to ‘look after’ your dinghy while you are on land. It almost feels like a protection racket at times as one wonders what happens if you don’t agree to their services. Again – if one remembers these are poor people who are only hoping for the chance to make a little something with folks immeasurably more wealthy than they could ever be – you can survive this. In Vieux Fort we had the greatest implied threat as one of the boys said he would protect our dinghy from one of the others who would other wise ‘pick’ our boat (with a knife). I pretended not to hear them properly and asked them why I needed protection from someone picking his nose. I then handed out some sweets/candy which they seemed delighted with. We had no trouble.

So – all I can say – is whether you love them or hate them is really going to be more down to you than them. These islands are their country, not ours, and respect begets respect.

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Sleepy Tyrell Bay

Once it at cooled down yesterday afternoon Helen and I went into town to clear in and walk around town. The officials at immigration turned out to be a lot of fun even though there was a lot of paperwork. We found the botanical gardens but they looked very much a work in progress so we passed on by.

We stayed the night anchored outside of Hillsborough thinking we could visit the nearby Sandy Island on the way out in the morning. When we did visit Sandy Island we found it quite choppy with winds in the 20s so we didn’t stop. We ended up in Tyrell Bay round the corner which is a lot quieter. Carriacou is very much like the caribbean as it used to be. Very laid back and not a lot going on. Some boats here have stopped for years and people taken roots.

We found a local canvas shop that will make us a dinghy cover so we’re having that done. While they were taking measurements this afternoon we had a few beers at the local places and chatted to some of the settled gringos.

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Grenadines Tracks

Here are our tracks through the Grenadines.


View 2009 Grenadines in a larger map

Posted in Baliceaux, Bequia, Carriacou, Mayreau, Mustique, Petit St Vincent, Petite Martinique, Tobago Cays, Tracks, Union | Leave a comment