Day 14 – Soper’s Hole

We learned a lot of lessons today – mostly involving diesel. Our plan for today was to head back to the BVIs. If the evening forecast was good we had an option to go to Great Tobago where we had an uninterrupted view to the west. We would have a chance to see a sunset over the sea and perhaps a green flash. The weather forecast wasn’t good so we changed our plans to stay at Soper’s Hole on Tortola. To check out of USVI we had to go back to Cruz Bay. We decided to top off with water and diesel, drop off our trash and pick up groceries before checking out. First stop was the fuel / water dock. I bear full responsibility for what happened next. What I wanted to happen was that, in an organized fashion we’d fuel, put on water and drop off the trash in a quick fashion before leaving the fuel dock where we could anchor then go get the groceries. I didn’t brief everyone on what I wanted to happen so what actually happened is everyone went off doing their own thing. While I struggled to get the things we needed done, done, I took my eye off the diesel going into the boat. The next thing was that we had diesel spurting all over the cockpit floor which got everywhere. We then spent a lot of time cleaning up diesel from the boat and the water. Helen’s view was that I simply should have kept my eye on the nozzle. My view was that I should have made sure everyone knew what they should be doing. Both views are right of course. The sail back to the BVIs was upwind but we polished of the miles in good order.


Soper’s Hole was quaint but we decided to eat over the bay in a restaurant called The Jolly Roger. We had a waterside table and fed ourselves as the sun went down. There was live music and Sam got an opportunity to play on the keyboard for the guests. He was frustrated by a lack of a pedal but did a reasonable job of it.


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Day 13 – The Hike

We set sail in the morning to a small bay which happens to be the beginning of a good hiking trail. We decided to partake in the experience, and it was fun. We went to an abandoned mill where we saw bats all over the ceiling. We also saw hermit crabs, big spiders, lizards, tree’s, deer- huh?, and a mongoose. When i saw the mongoose i was like “oh boy, where’s the snake?” but there was no snake 🙁 We continued the hike, went back to our boat, and chilled. We motored to another bay, ate an assortment of barbequed food and hit the hay.

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Day 13 – Genti Bay, Little Lameshur Bay

We set off early today (about 7:30am) when only John, Helen and myself were awake. We quickly raised the sails and headed south past Cruz Bay and then out into the Caribbean Sea. Our destination was Genti Bay on the south side of St John where we planned to go on a hike. As the wind was still coming from the east, this involved working our way up wind. I was keen to experience conditions away from the islands so we did this as one leg out, a tack and then one leg back. By the time we were out at sea, the rest had woken up. Sam and Leah took up their usual positions on the bow pulpits and had a real roller coaster ride as we ploughed through 4-6 foot seas and 20 knots of wind. The trip was quite exhilarating but relatively short as we covered ground quite well. Our hike took us past deserted sugar mills and old stone accommodations. It was fascinating to see how the plant life was gradually replacing the stonework. The hike was about 3 miles each way and involved a 1,000ft ascent. All the way we were surrounded by forest and vegetation and were offered no large views but the interior feel of the forest and how it changed as we ascended was rewarding. Along the way we also saw wildlife including a mongoose and a large spider.

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Day 12 – Independance Day

We woke up in time to enjoy the festivities of Independence Day at the island. They had markets and food and live music and it was really cool. We all walked around checking things out. I bought a necklace worth $21 for only $10, so Mum should be pleased that i got it half off. We then later got poised at the top of this hill to watch the fireworks go off at the bay, and they were spectacular. I enjoyed every second of it. So then later, when we got back to the beach, i had to swim back to the boat in the pitch black to grab the dinghy and head back to the beach to pick up the rest. It was as scary as it sounds. I was swimming while admiring the phytoplankton illuminating around me as i swam through. But in the distance, way in the pitch black depths of the sea, i was seeing bright flashes of light getting bigger and brighter. I have no idea what it was, but oh my god. I was trying to convince myself that it was so unlikely that i’d be eaten by a flock of barracuda or a battalion of squid, but the thought still lingered. Fortunately, i wasn’t fish food and the mission was a success.

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Day 12 – Independance Day

Lazy start of the day. In the morning, Helen, Ben and Leah went of snorkeling to follow the trail the rest of us did the day before. Around 11am we motored round the corner to Caneel Bay where we again moored. Plan A was to dinghy to The Plantation – a resort – and walk or cab it into town for the celebrations. Turns out we couldn’t leave the dinghy there so Plan B involve us dinghying to the beach. We didn’t want to leave the dinghy on the beach so Sam took the Dinghy back and swam back to the beach.




We then walked a rocky path into town which went via a lookout over St Cruz Bay. We decided on the possibility of coming back there later to watch the fireworks from there.



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