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A pounding passage

Given the information we had available to us and what transpired for us and other vessels in the vicinity, our decision to leave at 9:30am yesterday seems to have been the right one. However, being the best option available didn’t make it a lot of fun. The forecast was for 20-25 knots of wind. What we had was 25-35 all day and night long.

We had the main double reefed and the head sail reefed in too. We had the regeneration on all day and night just to try and control our arrival time, hopefully making it in after dawn. Given that the distance was over 140nm it was a struggle to keep Dignity from doing the distance in under 20 hours.

The seas picked up to between 3 and 4 meters in height which gave us a pounding. At the best of time it was a wild ride. At times waves would crash over and sometimes it felt like we were being hit by a bus.

During Helen’s late night shift the head sail managed to get wrapped around itself back winding at the top and getting a bit tangled. I was sleeping in the cabin in case of any issues so I got the call. In 35 knots of wind and crashing seas I sorted out the head sail. We agreed we needed to get the main down which we’ve never done under such conditions. We managed it although it was a bit of a struggle. Afterward, with just the head sail out, the running was much more comfortable.

Dawn found us screaming around the corner of Niue where the seas picked up further. At one time we sustained a 16 knot surf down a huge wave. As we rounded the corner the winds subsided and the seas flattened. We contacted the officials to let them know we were arriving and we contacted the yacht club for a mooring. As it is Sunday here we can’t clear in but we can sit here for the day. I’ve had a few hours sleep to catch up on the little I had overnight. After all, we have nothing else to do. We’ve arranged for an internet connection but it’s taking time to set up. I think we may end up being lucky to get one today.

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A few boats we know or at least have spoken to are here: Trim, Ile de Grace, Freezing Rain, Joule, Mariposa. Hopefully we’ll get to see some of these folks over the next few days. We’ve spoken to Ken on Trim and he’s already eaten at the one and only Indian Restaurant here. He says it is good so we’re now committed to going there on Helen’s birthday on Tuesday.

3rd day to Beveridge Reef – Weather

Our third day has been somewhat dominated by the weather. We had been expecting some sort of front to come over but it came upon us much earlier than we anticipated. Suspecting a line of clouds ahead of us I checked the radar to confirm a wall of rain ahead. We put two reefs into the main and head sail and plunged in. The winds increased to about 30 knots and the cold rain fell. The winds shifted well into the NW which was what we had expected.

This didn’t last long as suddenly the wind dropped to about 8 knots. I was just figuring out what best to do when they resumed at 25 knots from the south and stayed there. We quickly tacked and kept moving now off course. Sailing close to the wind with confused and changing seas was no fun. Nor were we heading in the right direction. All my planning to head north to get a better heading in the NW wind had now set us too far north to reach Beveridge Reef on a single tack. I knew the southerlies were coming but the GRIBs suggested we’d be on our anchor before that happened. It might have been ok except for a northerly current adding another 30 degrees to our course over ground.

Our hope was to to plod on regardless hoping the easterly trade winds would assert themselves and bring our course further south. Plan B was to abandon hope of reaching Beveridge Reef and go straight to Niue.

The winds shifted a little throughout the night leaving us about 10nm to make into wind by the time my morning shift started. With the reef seeming to calm the seas and lessen the current I began tacking in. And that is where we are – inching our way towards the reef. With our clocks set back an hour in line with Niue we should be in around 10am which is about right for the light.

Palmerston -> Beveridge Reef – 2nd day

We plod on. I’ve come to the conclusion the growth on the underside of the boat is costing us about 1/2 a knot. The bottom is in need of new paint as the miles have ablated most of it off. The weeds grow pretty fast. Outside Palmerston I didn’t feel like scraping and am now paying the price of leaving it. That being said, I think our 1st days poor weather would have meant a night time arrival and the slower pace will bring us in a few hours before dawn.

The winds have shifted to the NW as expected. Early this morning we furled the Code Zero and hoisted the main and jib to sail closer to the wind.

We put the lines out yesterday and caught a 20lb mahi mahi. Using the filleting techniques I observed in Palmerston I did a pretty good job getting about 10lb of good meat off the fish. That’s enough for five meals for the three of us. Needless to say we had fish for supper last night.

The weather patterns ahead of us are associated with a front heading our way. This could give us a bumpy night at sea. The good news is that the regular trades are forecast to slot in right behind which will make for a couple of pleasant days at Beveridge Reef.

Palmerston -> Beveridge Reef – 1st day

As forecast the winds were very light throughout the day and into the evening. We struggled to make 3 knots. But we knew this would be the case so we weren’t worried. The seas were calm so we didn’t suffer from the sail flogging in the light winds. We were therefore able to put some miles down and soon Palmerston was over the horizon.

Overnight the winds have picked up. At the beginning of my shift we were making between 5 and 6 knots but recently that has pulled back a bit. We’re still aiming more for Niue than Beveridge Reef as we’re still anticipating a wind shift to the north west this evening. The winds are expected to slacken again after about a day of medium weather so I’m still expecting a Thursday arrival, boat time of course. For much of the world it will be Friday as we’ll be closer still to the dateline.

Au Revoir Palmerston

We have now left Palmerston. We spent the remainder of Sunday aboard just relaxing and doing a little boat prep. We finished off Lord of the Rings in the evening.

The weather picture still remains complex but I’ve decided we’re better of going and figuring it all out as we go. We are bound for Beveridge Reef located at 20S, 167 46.5W. The winds are currently coming from the NNE and due to swing round to the NW over the next day or so. We’re therefore heading north of the direct line from Palmerston to Beveridge Reef so we’ll get a better wind angle if/when it turns. The winds are light (6-8 knots) but we’re sailing with our trusty Code Zero.

It should be a two day trip in normal trades but in these light winds it’s going to be probably three.

We’re leaving Palmerston which a touch of sadness as our time here has been priceless. That being said, one could stay too long on a small island like this. Everyone knows everyone else and every relationship must have a history. While we saw and participated in part of their life here we only scratched the surface. Beneath this surface one gets a glimpse from time to time of the deeper side of life here and it’s not necessarily all Paradise.

Looking ahead, Beveridge Reef is an interesting place. Surrounded by the ocean three miles deep it is a pinnacle rising from the depths to just below the surface. At low tide, I understand, the reef will surface but beyond that there is no land. The waters are supposed to be crystal clear, the snorkeling excellent and, we have been informed, lobsters can be plucked from the reef at night. We shall see.

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