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“Front Porch”

Would you believe it I finally obtained the dive map from Budget Marine yesterday. I dropped off the four used tanks at Dive Friends letting them know one had lost about 1,000 PSI before we used it and pointed out where the leak was. Even though we’d managed a decent dive on it the manager gave us a free fill. Very nice of them. Our tanks still hadn’t arrived yet so I took another two.

Helen and I then packed our gear into the dinghy and went to a spot just north of Harbour Village Marina called “Front Porch”. It wasn’t clear where the spot was from the sea as my guess is is that the dive marker was on land. We asked someone in the water who gave us guidance to the spot – at least where he thought it was. One of the attractions to this spot was a wreck of a fishing boat sitting on the bottom at 80ft.

We donned our gear, always a little more awkward in the dinghy, and back flipped into the water. After making sure we were both ok we descended to find the wreck. We hit bottom at 102ft and saw no wreck. To conserve air we ascended to about 70ft and headed south, this being my guess as to the direction of the wreck. After about 5 minutes the wreck appeared out of the shadows. It was on it’s side in about 90ft with the open section away from us. We swum over it then peered under.

The dive then progressed as with the previous ones, running parallels along the sloping reef ascending 10-20ft each time. We spotted a sinister looking and very large barracuda lurking in the depths and Helen caught sight of a green moray hiding in the reef. Nearer the top of the reef we came upon what we both initially thought was murky water. It turned out to be a few of the corals spawing. Out of their tubular vents poured a fine mist like underwater volcanoes. That was a great surprise as we thought all the spawning had occurred during September and October.

Back on Dignity we rested for an hour before heading off for a walk. We wanted some leg exercise as we’d had none for a while. We walked along the seafront for a while before heading into the commercial district. We wanted to check out the supermarkets over that way before making any broader effort to buy any supplies. As suspected the prices reflected the geographic/political isolation of the island so we only bought opportunistically – ie, things we don’t normally see. In this case it was a couple of small packets of nan bread. We bumped into the Jacksters, Inspiration Ladies and their friends on Going South who were provisioning up having hired a vehicle they could share.

We walked further out of town before looping back and coming back in from a different direction. We picked up some fresh milk on the way. We again bumped into the Jacksters, et al, at the dinghy dock as they were loading up their supplies.

That was about it. Back on the boat we had our evening meal and I wrestled with the internet for a while. Something’s changed recently and it’s hard to get a decent connection. Hopefully I can get this blog out.

“Mi Dushi”

Thursday morning: another trip to Budget Marine to pick up my map. Another wipe out. Took their number this time so I’ll call before going again. We then motored Dignity around Klein Bonaire to a dive site called “Mi Dushi”. I had made a note of this site while in Budget Marine as the guide suggested this was the site to spot sea horses. Leaving our mooring we were hailed by Alofa who wondered if we were leaving just as they were arriving. We reassured them we weren’t and would be around for a few days yet.

The waters at the Mi Dushi were crystal clear and the colours out of this world. No seahorses spotted though but the dive was excellent all the same.

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Arriving back at the mainland we discovered someone else had taken the mooring we had been on (you’re not allowed to reserve them) so we took another a little further north. We found the internet connection to be poor there so after dinghying around and checking some of the others we ended up tying up to the mooring next to our previous which looked as though it had an issue but was fine.

Throughout the day we had exchanges with Jackster and Inspiration Lady sharing notes and materials we’d collected for our passage west.

We had a quiet evening to ourselves. We were a little worn out and needed it after the two previous evenings.

Painting Lessons. Another Sundowner.

We had a fairly slow morning rising due to the night before. The coconut telegraph at 8am was the final reason for getting up. To our delight we heard that Inspiration Lady and Jackster had both arrived in Bonaire. They had bypassed the Aves on the strength of a forecast of little or no wind the following day. As it was they had had to motor a lot of the way from Los Roques. We soon had contact on the VHF and agreed to meet up for sundowners in the evening – the second in a row for us.

Next we had a trip into town for some provisioning. We also swung by the Budget Marine to see if the dive map had arrived. It hadn’t. They suggested coming back today. We’ll see.

Then it was down to some serious hammock lying and reading until lunch. After lunch, Teri from Sea Otter came over to give Helen a water colour painting lesson. Teri spent 2½ hours with Helen showing her the basics and some different techniques for achieving different effects. The result, we all thought, was pretty good. A combination of good teaching and talented student perhaps.

Sea Otter are heading out today. They will make their way to St Thomas where Teri will paint some more and sell her paintings to the tourists. She makes enough money this way to feed them for the following year. Teri kindly left Helen some of her old paints to keep going.

By the time all was packed up it was time to have the Jacksters (Jackie and Dave) and the Inspiration Ladies (Jackie and Gary) aboard for a fine evening of conversation, nibbles and the odd beverage. We all have rough plans of making it to NZ by the end of next year. It was good to catch up with them and learn of their travels and recent experiences.

Asa Wright Nature Center

We had a restful morning before dinghying ashore and picking up the hire car. Looking at the map we decided to drive to the Asa Wright Nature Center and, if time permitted, see something else on the way back. Because of the traffic it took us over 2 hours to get to the center. The center focuses on bird watching and has a number of tours throughout the day. The next and final tour was at 1:30 so we decided to have lunch there and wait for the tour. While we waited for the tour to start we were able to observe a number of birds from the veranda of the nature center. Oddly enough we bumped into a few fellow cruisers who had arrived the previous day and stayed the night, among them being Jackie and Gary from Inspiration Lady.

The tour turned out to be quite interesting. The first thing we were shown was what looked like a foot path through the undergrowth. It turned out to be a leaf cutter ant trail.

It was quite fascinating to see the ants carrying their snipped off leaves, often with other ants riding atop the leaves to guard against wasp which liked to lay eggs on the leaves which would subsequently hatch in the ant nest. We were later shown the nest soldiers which had formidable mandibles which apparently had the ability to cut right through flesh. We didn’t try that out.

Being terrible about remembering the names of things I can’t give all the names of the birds. We saw a couple of nocturnal birds that would stand on top of vertical branches during the day looking very much like an extension of the branch.

Towards the end of the walk we heard and saw a bearded bellbird way up in the trees. It’s call was extremely loud. I thought it would make an effective bilge alarm.

It was three O’clock by the time the walk had finished so we had to dash off to do shopping. We ended up having a brief look at the Falls Mall before shopping at the large Hi Lo next door. We bought a lot of stuff – particularly non-perishable items – as some things are a lot cheaper here in Trinidad and we had the car which made things a lot easier. By the time we had everything loaded on the boat we were exhausted so we ate and went to bed early.

Looking at the weather forecast today it’s almost certain we’ll be sailing to Grenada tonight. We’re looking forward to getting back as we do prefer it there. We have more friends there and we hear the carnival atmosphere is building up. Now that we have the freezer running I’m keen to replace the house batteries which I need to do in Grenada. So today will be clearing up the boat, making her ready for the trip, clearing out and collecting our wine. I will need to bend the lids of the starboard battery boxes so I can fit them properly.  I may make the second battery box if we have time and may also start on their lids too.

Emancipation Day

Yesterday was a public holiday in Trinidad – Emancipation Day. I had asked locals in stores earlier in the week if anything special would be happening and no one seemed to know. The best I got was that something maybe happening in Port of Spain but not around here. We were also told that shops are likely to be closed.

We debated our original idea to take the bus into Port of Spain as we didn’t want to go all the way there and find nothing open. We never really came off the fence on this one but we thought it was worth a try. Once in the dinghy we first went over to see Diane and Gerald on Whiskers who had arrived a couple of days ago. We chatted for a while and agreed to meet up at Sails in Power Boats for beers later in the evening. A steel band was due to play and we were hoping to have a good atmosphere. They were also of the opinion that not a lot would be open in town.

We then popped round to Freya of Clyde to talk to Anne and Alan. They had a map to lend to us which we picked up. Again – another chat about things. We talked of our plans and they pointed out the busses would likely to be infrequent too. That kind of did it. We had a plan B which was to go for a walk so we decided to do that.

As we walked along the main road, two local busses passed us by. This was hardly infrequent so we decided to catch the third into Port of Spain. When we arrived we found our bearings and headed off into the center of town. It didn’t take long to realize there something was happening. We came to a corner and there were some men and women in bright African clothing, all the same.

Soon we realized there was a parade on. We had no idea of the size of it. Some of it had already passed by but we stood our ground to watch what was left of it. This parade put the carnivals we have seen in Dominica and Bequia to shame. I was glad I had pocketed my small camera so we could record the occasion.

There were floats of many kinds. There were a number with deep booming drums being beaten intensely by enthusiastic drummers. There were trucks with 20 piece steel bands with bands both young and old all well practiced.

Almost every truck was themed in some manner. Some being themed by a local association or church, some going back to African roots. Practically all were followed by throngs of colourfully dressed crowds enjoying the music and occasion.

It didn’t take long before the end of the procession passed us so we walked further into town only to come upon the front of the parade which had looped back along a parallel street. This allowed us to see the rest of the parade that we hadn’t seen before. There were a couple of trucks with the immense speakers stacks that would send our clothes and eardrums vibrating (as we’d seen further up the islands) but fortunately they were the minority – the rest being live music.

In all we must have spent over two hours watching the parade. It was such a pleasant surprise. We wondered why no one had told us of this and why none of the cruisers, some of whom had been coming here for years, knew about this. Perhaps this was a personal thing and it’s not advertised broadly for tourists to come and see. Who knows? We felt privileged to be part of such a wonderful celebration.

We then wondered around for a while zig-zagging through the streets at random. Many of the shops were indeed closed but a few were open. We didn’t go in many but the cold air conditioned air pouring out of some was very welcome. We had lunch in a Chinese restaurant. Every takeaway had solid bars between the eating area and the cooks as if they were in jail. This was a reminder that crime is an issue here in Trinidad. The meal was a little bland but we had huge plates of food for about US$4 each, including a large soda. Not bad.

After lunch we were worn out so we headed back to the bus station via a supermarket where we shopped for some essentials and, by luck, a street market with lots of fruit for sale. On the way back we were again deluged by rain but not for long. By the time we arrived in Chaguaramas, the rain was mostly behind us.

Back on Dignity we were set for a rolly time. Not only was the swell coming in and making the bay choppy, the hoards of power boats coming in and out were creating immense wakes. A few were respecting the anchorage but they were the minority by far.

I did do a little more work on the batteries. I used my mini blow torch to heat the lids where they needed to bend around the cables. It wasn’t often pretty but it worked. Now all four lids sit snugly on the batteries. Port side fully done.

In the evening we went ashore to Sails for beers and a plate of chips. We sat down with Carol and John from Sweet Caroline and another cruising couple from Sail Away. We were soon joined by Diane and Gerald from Whiskers. We were also joined by Gary and his wife from Inspiration Lady. We’ve crossed paths before in Grenada. We didn’t get much time to talk but hopefully we’ll bump into them again in our travels. It looks like they are aiming for a Panama crossing around the same time as us.

We invited Diane and Gerald back to Dignity for a final Rum and Ting. On the way out we passed the Freya’s who we’d not had much of a chance to talk to in the evening. We had a pleasant time aboard with the Whisker’s. A late night to bed was the result.

This morning the weather looks fine. We need to goad ourselves into getting to work on the starboard side drive bank. The plan today is to remove the battery cabling, lift out the six 8D batteries and remove the boxes and all straps and dowels. We’ll then clean up the locker before redoing the dowels and straps and putting some wood filler to cover some burn marks left by some welding that was done before Dignity was originally delivered. If the wood filler sets sufficiently we’ll place another 12 of the 6V batteries into the boxes ready for cabling tomorrow. We still ache so we’re not looking forward to this work at all.