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Colombia « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

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Moving the boat

We decided to move the boat on Monday. We waited until 10am so the sun was high enough to help us see any hazards before motoring up the canal that separated Isla Grande from the smaller islands off it’s west side. The channels around here are all buoyed but vigilance is still required as you don’t know if buoys are missing or other potential pitfalls await. Having traverse the canal we headed a short way east to the channel markers showing the way behind the northern reefs. We anchored behind the reef in the western half moon bay on the north side.

We had planned to go diving so we prepared our gear. Helen was keen on swimming all the way out to the dive site so we agreed on this. The water where we were anchored behind the reef was murky and Helen very quickly felt unwell and headed back to the boat. As I had the gear on I checked the anchor and the underside of the boat before returning too.

After lunch we decided to move the boat to the eastern half moon bay to see if things were better there. The channel ran very close to the shore affording us interesting views of the coastal properties as we motored round – this time using just the batteries as the distance was quite short. Having anchored again we dinghied out through the reef to examine the dive site there. Helen didn’t feel positive about the spot and was not happy about where we were anchored either so we ended up moving the boat one more time. The day was being dominated by the extra bottle of wine consumed the previous evening.

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That was it really. We spent the rest of the day reading. I spent some time reviewing canal transit procedures and guidance.

One more day here before we return to Cartagena.

Chillin’

Sunday was another of those days where we really didn’t do much. We did go out for a little exploration in the dinghy but we didn’t go too far because the motor was losing it’s rhythm. Not quite sure why but I suspect something to do with the fuel line. I need to keep an eye on this and also not go too far from the boat lest we have to row back. We went up the canal to the north of us and looked at the anchorage just north of us in case the southerlies pick up and we need to move. On the way back we stopped off to look around a pretty restaurant / hotel on the bank of the canal. I had half hoped we may be able to walk inland but it seemed the whole place was setup to be accessible from the water only. One of the workers tried to sell us some souvenirs but we declined taking only pictures before leaving.

We found the nutcracker we thought we’d dropped overboard the night before so the search and rescue mission was called off. There was some fish activity with a large school of small fish being harassed by larger predators. The small fish would jump into the air en masse to escape being eaten and sometimes would end up on the lower steps at our stern. I tried fishing using the dead ones as bait for a bit and caught just one larger fish which I returned.

The rest of the day was spent reading.

We do intend moving the boat around to the north side of the island where we can hopefully go ashore. Our intention is to head back to Cartagena on Wednesday morning. Looking further out we expect to head for Panama around the middle of the following week, ie the 9th of December. That should get us anchored off the coast during the weekend sometime so we can take a bus into Colon on the following Monday. Hopefully we can clear in and initiate the formalities for our canal transit on the Monday. Later in the week we’ll have to move to Colon for the boat to be inspected. Once this is done we’ll be free to head back east in order to meet up with the family on the 20th close to Portobello.

Isla Grande

When we awoke Saturday morning, the winds in Cienaga de Cholon had died away to nothing. It was flat and still. A general invite had been put out to join everyone aboard one of the larger vessels at 4pm. We were attracted to this but decided, in the end, to leave the bay and explore elsewhere. No doubt we would have learned more about the vessel that was abandoned (which we now know was named Kersti) but we felt that curiosity was not worth losing a days exploration.

The guy who loaned us the charts had indicated a good dive site so we plotted a course there and left the bay around 9:30am. Having cleaned the barnacles off the props we were back to motoring above 6 knots without pushing too hard. The depths were quite inconsistent at times with our charts so we maintained vigilance all the way to our destination. As we approached the destination we realized this was the touristy area where, we believe, the aquarium is situated. There were crowds in the water – exactly what we didn’t want. We had seen a nice little anchorage about a mile to the east so we turned about and headed back there.

The first thing we did after anchoring was to prepare our scuba gear and dinghy out to a nearby dive site marker. The corals here turned out to be particularly interesting showing the most colour variation we had seen. At times the drop off to the deeper water was vertical. We descended to around 70-80 feet and headed north. Later we ascended and made our way back through the coral heads. We both were stung on the face several times by jelly fish larvae but that didn’t detract from the dive.

After lunch we settled down to a lazy afternoon. It was quite hazy so it was ok to be outside in the gentle breeze that was developing. Some locals came by with crabs and crayfish for sale. I ended up buying all four crabs and the two crayfish they had. It was a bit of a rip off as they cunningly kept bringing up the same two crabs making all four look whole. When I examined them later two of the crabs had lost a claw. Nevertheless, the price was much cheaper than back in the US. The crabs were about 2lb each so we figured that in the evening we’d eat one each and save the rest for later. In the end we ate the lot. Delicious.

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Today we may hang around here. We’ll explore a little in the dinghy and if we find somewhere nice to move Dignity to we may just do that. Apart from that I may search for one of the nut crackers we used to open up the crabs as it went overboard. I did mark the position with the hand held GPS but the cumulative effect of two 30ft accurate plots gives me a search radius of 60ft. I’ll be lucky to find it. On my side is the fact it’s shiny and silver. If I search near midday I may have a chance.

Cienaga de Cholon

During the morning net I made my request for charts and was informed that the Club Nautica marina office had some. Hoping they might be around I dinghied over as soon as the net closed. Unfortunately, noone who could help me was present so I returned to Dignity and made another general request. This time, MariaXXXXX (fix later) responded. They very kindly loaned us their charts and also explained some of their notes on the charts and gave us a few options.

We were now able to up anchor and leave. It was very quickly apparent we weren’t motoring as fast as we normally do. Cartagena is notorious for bottom growth so I assumed it was that. We were making just over 5 knots and the wind was about 2 so we motored all the way. As soon as the waters turned a decent colour we turned on the water maker as we were getting pretty low. We had to turn it off again as we passed Boca Chica (the commercial entrance to Cartagena). In our second patch of clear water we were greeted by a pod of dolphins.

On the way down to the Rosarios we debated our choices and opted to head for Cienaga de Cholon, a sleepy lagoon, nearby. It’s a popular (amongst cruisers) lagoon away from Cartagena with little going on. The land around is privately owned by wealthy Colombians (which of course makes one wonder). There is a bar by the entrance where you can sit in the water and have drinks but we hear it is quite expensive. It looks cool though.

The grapevine had it that the entrance to this lagoon is hazardous and difficult and an effective local called Sonny would happily dinghy out and show us through the buoys. From my conversation earlier and from the charts I had I felt confident we could make it through the channel without such assistance. Another boat with tired crew, having crossed from the San Blas, was about a mile ahead of us. They were getting assistance from Sonny so I watched their course through the binoculars for extra information. Sonny did speak to us but I kindly declined his offer as I had good info. We made it through without any issue.

We soon learned their was a fleet of seven boats arriving from San Blas and Sonny was busy along with another cruiser helping them all navigate the reefs around the entrance. Furthermore, one boat had rescued a British couple whose boat had sank. They also had been coming over from the San Blas but I’m not sure if they were part of the same flotilla. My guess is they weren’t as it tends to be the Americans who like to travel in groups with the Commonwealth countries taking the opposite view.

Soon after arriving in this delightful anchorage I jumped into the water to examine the underside. My first surprise was the warmth of the water. It is 97 degrees fahrenheit, a shade less than body temperature. I soon found the cause of our loss of speed. The props and shafts were coated in small barnacles about 3mm deep. Not a section of metal was visible. Interestingly, most of the shells were empty, the creatures no doubt having been wrenched from their shells by the motion through the water.

I donned BCD, tank, mask and knife and went back below to scrape off all the shells. It took a good deal of time and in the body temp water I felt quite hot with the effort. Thinking ahead, this presents us with a dilemma. We will be back in Cartagena for a week or so soon and will attract more growth. The general weather conditions will require us to motor some to get to Panama so we want to have clean props. However, the last thing I want to do is go into the water in Cartagena. I may have to do that but an alternative would be to find a small bay to the north of Cartagena and stop there to clean them off before continuing to Panama.

We spent the afternoon reading and relaxing in the lovely cool breeze. It’s been a very pleasant evening away from the city. Our current thinking is we’ll head out to the south side of the Rosarios later this morning to a place where we were shown we could tie to a strong buoy for the evening and have a good dive.

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Thanksgiving

The morning started with us heading ashore so that Helen could take a taxi to the dentist and I could meet the stainless steel guy. Helen had a temporary crown put in in South Africa and Colombia is by far the best place (high quality, low cost) to get a proper one done. Helen left in the taxi while I had to hang around for the stainless steel guy. It turned out the stuff isn’t going to arrive until early next week now.

I then headed back to the boat to while away the morning. I heard from the guy repairing our air con control board that he’d been successful which was good news.

Towards midday I was hailed by one of the Thanksgiving organizers, Marianne, who was heading out and would drop off a second dinner ticket for us – we were the only ones who had both names written onto one. She said she would be out in 5 mins. Then Helen called from across the bay suggesting I dinghy over to pick her up. I decided to jump into the dinghy and meet Marianne, halfway. It turned out she had run out of gas so I towed her back to her own boat where they had an extra supply. By the time I got over to the other side of the bay Helen had moved. With dwindling power on my handset it took a while to find her but we managed.

On the way back to Dignity we bumped into Dianne and Gerald who seemed to be going nowhere in particular (I’m sure they were but we never found out). We invited them back to Dignity for a Thanksgiving bevy.

Shortly after 3pm we headed off to the Thanksgiving party at Pacho & Guillos, a nearby hangout. We had a good time despite the food being a little mediocre. We sat with Rosie and Tom from Sojourn and Tom and Salaman from Everafter and enjoyed their company. We may bump into them later in the year as they have similarish plans for Panama/San Blas.

As a result of our stainless steel not being ready for a few days we’ve decided to leave the anchorage for the weekend. We’re heading about 20nm south to the Rosarios, a nice little island group with good diving. We need to get somewhere with a clean smelling breeze and clear water where we can swim and make water. After last night’s dinner we headed to the supermarket to provision for five days in case we stay a while. The one thing we need before we leave is a chart of the area showing where we can anchor. Hopefully we can obtain one from somebody by request on this morning’s net.