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Central America « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

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Jaco

My feet are so stiff. And everywhere else it seems. Here’s why.

After a little lie in we took the dinghy ashore chaining it up to a sturdy tree as we were expecting to leave it for some time. We walked to the bus stop where we could take a ride to Jaco. We only had to wait 10 minutes for the next bus although I don’t know how often they really ran – perhaps hourly. The bus ride took nearly an hour to deposit us in Jaco.

For a seaside town, Jaco is rather differently laid out. Most of the shops and restaurants are on a street parallel to the beach one block out. There are very few signs of commerce along the beach with mainly the backs of hotels, walls and the odd corner restaurant facing the beach.

Our original idea was to surf rent boards for the day and just give it a go. After chatting to some folks on the beach we decided that taking an introductory lesson was the right way to go. In fact the first thing we learned was that right then was a bad time to go surfing as the tide was reaching its ebb and it would be better to wait until the lesson which was at 3pm.

We wandered around town for a while and settled on a restaurant serving an interesting variety of burgers which didn’t disappoint. After lunch we separated to wonder around some more before meeting up back on the beach half an hour before our lesson. Helen had decided not to try out surfing as she was worried about her healing knee so she looked after all our gear. Ella, John and I took our boards out a little early to learn the obvious – that without some instruction we had no idea what we were doing.

Our lesson started a little late which means on time for Central America. The lesson really came in two parts. The first was safety – how to keep yourself and others safe while surfing. The second was how and when to stand up. We had a number of practice sessions on surfboards laid on the sand before going out with separate instructors in groups of two or three.

The progression was worked out quite well as our next task was to stand up on the board while being pushed by the instructor at exactly the right time. At this stage we didn’t have to worry about paddling the board forward or timing our stand. I managed to get stood up on each occasion. The stance we had to make on the board was very similar to one of our old karate fighting stances so the positioning felt quite natural as did shifting weight forward and backward to control the speed. Likewise, the balancing and turning was similar to snowboarding.

After four goes of being pushed the next step was to paddle and stand up in accordance to the instructors called instructions. This was a little more difficult but the results were certainly fun. The surf was building and we were going gradually further out so the runs were getting longer and longer. The downside of this was there was more and more surf to wade back through to start again.

Just when I was feeling completely exhausted we were taken back to the beach for some additional verbal instruction / reinforcement accompanied with fresh fruit and water. We were soon back out again for another grueling half an hour before the whole lesson was up. That was all certainly enough for me. We had learned some valuable lessons – enough to be able to rent boards ourselves some day.

This morning I ache all over. Don’t know how Ella and John feel but I guess it will be much the same when they’re up and about.

Today we’ll be setting off for Bahia Ballena and the town of Tambor. I can hear the wind gen turning so maybe, just maybe, we’ll sail some of the way there.

Bahia Herradura

As we had done Quepos to death leaving at dawn was the obvious choice so we could have time at our destination. Leaving the confines of our bunk we discovered the wind blowing around 7 knots in the anchorage. This raised our hopes for higher yet wind speeds away from the shelter of the bay.

We raised the mainsail at anchor, raised the anchor and motored off. Into reduced winds. Disappointing indeed. However, they were off our starboard quarter so with the motion of the boat the apparent wind put us on a close reach which was enough to raise the head sail and at least get a little extra speed motor sailing.

This was much the story all the way up to Bahia Herradura. We did have an interval where the winds picked up to around 10 knots but they came at us on our nose and made the seas short and choppy. We headed off to port hoping the wind would continue to increase and we could later tack and sail into our destination. However, the winds were again to die and the seas calm down so we ended up with the motor on all the way.

The weather in general was wonderful though. The air was clear enough to see the Nicoya peninsular from far out. This is bittersweet as this means our stomping ground for our final days in Costa Rica (and hence the Americas) is all in sight. A slight sadness to be nearing the end of one phase but the excitement of leaving for the South Pacific in under three weeks is beginning to build and in between we have still much to do including Ben and Jess’s visit.

We anchored around 1pm and decided to wait a couple of hours before it cooled enough to make going ashore a sensible idea. Our dinghy landing was ok except John again managed to get soaked and very displeased in the process. We could have dinghied to the nearby marina but they, apparently, charge $50 a day for the privilege of docking the dinghy. That certainly exceeds John’s laundry costs so the beach landings it is.

We walked about a mile to a nearby mall which caters for all the expats living in the area. It is reputed to have the best selection of food in all of Costa Rica. I was a little disappointed with what we found and found the place a little expensive. On the plus side it was air conditioned which counts for a lot.

Having bought some groceries we took a taxi back to the shore, dinghied back to the boat and settled into an evening of curry and the movie Grand Torino.

This morning was a little disturbed by the generator failing to start. The impeller had shredded leaving me the task of switching it out and fishing out all the broken blades from where they’d ended up.

Finally, I’ve uploaded a few pics taken during our second trip to Manuel Antonio Park. They’re attached to our previous blog entry.

Today we’re off to Jaco, perhaps to surf. It’s a bus ride away which should be fun.

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Rest of park/back in Quepos

Going back a couple of days ago, we did go back to the park around 3pm. We landed ashore around high tide and right where we chained the dinghy to a tree there was a troup of white faced monkeys including one mother with a baby clinging to her back.

We hung around there for a while before hiking the one remaining trail in the park we had left from the morning. This was a circular trail around cathedral point which climbed up, offered some spectacular views over the sea and then back down again. There were quite a few agoutis around which are the second largest rodents on the planet. We also saw one opossum and a few more monkeys.

Back on the boat I had to fix the solenoid which allows the propane gas to flow into the boat. One of the wires had broken right where it went into the plastic of the solenoid when I’d removed the empty tank and we could not use the gas until it was fixed. I lengthened the wires while fixing this so that a repeat was less likely.

Yesterday morning we decided to go for a dive nearby. We moved Dignity and anchored so we could dive straight off the back of the boat. Helen stayed behind as she only likes to go in when it is close to perfect viewing conditions. Ella, John and I were out for about an hour. Most of the time the visibility was pretty poor but there were a few patches where we had reasonably visibility. I saw three lobsters but all were tucked away so deep into the rocks I was unable to bring them in for lunch.

Back on the boat we set off back to Quepos and lunch. In the afternoon I took Ella and John to shore along the way picking up Mike from Callisto. Mike and I took a taxi to the dive store where I dropped off our three tanks to be refilled then went to the propane shop to pick up our gas tanks. We then headed back to the dive store but as our tanks were not yet ready we went round the corner for a couple of beers. We picked up the tanks and a final taxi ride took us back to the dinghy where we loaded up and headed back to the boats. On the way I realized I forgotten to ask the dive shop if they had a spare fin strap so having dropped Mike and the tanks off I went back ashore and walked to the dive shop. I was able to obtain a new strap and on the way back picked up a spare remote control and some onions. The dinghy had worked itself onto a rock and in rectifying this I slipped and sat in the water getting quite wet and embarassed. Back on Dignity I completed changing the oil on the genset which I’d started earlier. By now, much of the afternoon was done with all the chores and all that was left to do was collect Ella and John from the shore.

Today we’re out of here. We’re sailing (or motoring if our recent luck with the weather is with us) up to Herradura/Jaco where we’ll stay a couple of days before moving on.

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A longer walk in the park

Our only real activity yesterday morning was to go out for brunch and to go food shopping. Back on the boat I did a little more online shopping for stuff that our son Ben can bring when he comes aboard in a couple of weeks.

In the afternoon I popped over to Callisto to discuss celestial navigation with Mike. He’s learned and forgotten all about it but I wanted to get a feel for what I needed to do if I’m ever to use my sextant. The conversation turned out to be helpful in a way.

Around 4:30 John hailed us as he was now back in Quepos with Ella. I picked them up in the dinghy and brought them back to the boat. We had been invited over to Callisto for sundowners. Unsurprisingly John and Ella elected to stay aboard Dignity to unwind after their long bus ride from San Jose. We eventually returned to the boat around 10:30pm.

Feeling worse for wear we were up and off around 5:30am this morning to get back into the park nice and early. Once we’d collected our tickets we headed to the beach near the boat to leave the dinghy and go hiking in the park. John misjudged his exit and ended up plunging into the sea up to his neck. Fortunately there are showers around the park which he use to replace the salt water in his clothes with fresh. We hiked practically every trail in the park hoping to see monkeys. I managed a brief glimpse of a howler but that was about it. We did see plenty of lizards, crabs and a sloth. I even saw a snake in the trees which pleased Helen no end.

We left the park and ate bruch at a cafe in the tourist area before heading back to the beach and the boat. Still no sign of monkeys. We’ll go ashore later today when the crowds leave as this seems to be the time the monkeys are attracted to the shore.

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Back in Quepos

Having woke up we motored back to Quepos fairly early in the morning. Jason, being Canadian, was keen to get home to watch the ice hockey finals between Canada and the US (which Canada won) and we had a few things to do around town.

Upon arriving we headed ashore at extreme low tide which ended up being quite difficult as we bumped the bottom of the river a few times. Jason took us for breakfast at the resort area near the park, along the way dropping off a couple of dive tanks for an air fill. On the way back we picked up the tanks then headed to a garage to fill our gerry cans with gas. Jason then dropped us off at the dinghy.

The rest of the day was fairly quiet. John and Ella have decided to stay an extra day in San Jose so we had a chance to chill on our own.

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