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Cayo Holandes – The Pool

Ready to set off we changed all the plans we had and decided to join Whiskers at “The Pool” in the East Holandes. Again – no wind to speak of so we motored the 10nm there trailing lines in the hope of catching something.

Arriving at “The Pool” we found a number of boats there as this is one of the most popular spots in the entire San Blas. And for good reason. The place is divine. I’ve used superlatives in the past to describe places like the Tobago Cays but this place puts them into the shade. The only downside is the sea life is sparce and shy.

Gerald from Whiskers popped over to say hello as soon as we arrived and shortly after we took lunch. After a brief rest all but Helen took off in the dinghy to find the “tunnel” we’d heard about. We did indeed find it. Below the water there was a tunnel with plenty of gaps to the surface. Along the surface was a channel which could be traversed to a point. Unfortunately the current entering the lagoon prevented us reaching the outside reef. I did manage to spot another shark coming down the channel towards me but both of us used the encounter as a trigger to turn around. Perhaps we’ll go back and explore with the scuba gear.

We spent well over an hour exploring the inside of the reef. We saw a few interesting creatures including a large parrot fish and a very large puffer fish.

Back on the boat it was back to relaxing. Sam and Annie took a walk around BBQ island. Later, Dianne and Gerald showed up for a few drinks which turned out, as ever, into a few more.

Most went to bed but Sam, Annie and I stayed up to after 1am chatting and looking at the stars.

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Getting wet

On Tuesday the weather began to improve. We had a mixture of sunny and overcast skies. This was probably for the best as Annie and John are looking a little red at the moment and even Sam, who normally totally immune to sunburn, was feeling it a bit on his face.

We had a rummage through all our snorkeling gear and managed to put gear together for all of us. I didn’t think we’d have enough but we managed it. In the morning, four of us (Helen staying behind) went for a snorkel from the boat – I took my spear gun for a try out. The animal life was sparse but interesting when we found things. Nearby was a submerged log and under it was a lion fish which I’ve never seen before and a couple of crayfish – mini lobsters.

We swam around some more. I tried a shot at a small barracuda but it was too far away. I had a good shot on a couple of jacks but left the safety catch on. All part of the learning curve I guess. On the way back I shot one of the crayfish under the log. The spear hit it straight in the face and came out it’s tail travelling all the way through. I brought my prize back to the boat and boiled it up. I shared it around which meant everyone got a tiny sliver as it was not a large beastie.

After lunch and a rest we took off in the dinghy to a little island with a single palm to try the snorkeling there. John took his new underwater camera and managed some decent shots. The sea life was a lot more abundant there. I even saw a nurse shark – my first of our entire trip. Sadly noone else saw it. I practiced some more with my spear gun. I managed to wing three fish with one staying on the spear for a while. All three got away albeit with chunks missing. I’m learning you need to shoot at very close range, which is difficult enough, but I also think only the larger fish will have enough flesh to stay on. The real reason for getting the spear gun is to catch lobster. Not seen any of those yet but hopefully we will soon.

Back on the boat it was curry night. Sam and John had been looking forward to this and Annie was keen to try. Just before we sat down we heard from Whiskers on the radio letting us know where we are. Chances are we’ll rendezvous for Christmas as they’re in a very nice part of the San Blas.

After dinner Sam, Annie and I went out in the dinghy to explore the nearby reef in the dark. I’d heard that the crayfish come out at night and can be plucked off the reef by hand. It turned out to be too choppy to see much and the dinghy was impossible to handle without the motor running. Without it, the wind and current was pushing us onto the reef which was not good. For a while Annie was leaning over the bow of the dinghy using her facemask to peer into the water. The next thing Sam and I saw were her legs pointing straight up as she disappeared under the dinghy. I stopped and pulled the motor out of the water to prevent a nasty accident and Annie popped up the side. She’d fallen in. Fortunately she only got a slight scratch from the coral. All fun but it was time to go back in.

The evening movie was the first Pirates of the Caribbean movie. Helen soon had to crash and I followed not long after. We’ll find out later if anyone made it to the end.

Today we’ll definitely move on. Chances are it will be to eastern Holandes Cays. It is a popular spot but apparently for good reason. I have the GPS coordinates (from Louis/Sympatica) of a coral ‘tunnel’ which is supposed to be a lot of fun to explore. Perhaps we’ll be doing that later today.

Chichime, San Blas

Although we planned to leave Isla Grande around 7am we actually left a little after 8am to allow Sam and Annie a little extra time to sleep. The wind was under 5 knots so there was no point raising any sails. We motored all the way to the San Blas. We had trolling lines out almost straight away with the hope of catching something along the way. The legs too and from the San Blas would be the longest and hence best chance of catching anything. We made a point of sailing over La Provendencia Shoal (9°3922’N 079°26.84’W) and while most of us were looking back we saw a barracuda strike one of lures. We hauled it in successfully and found it to be a 4lb fish, not too large to eat. I prepared the fish, this time down to two single filets. Then came the task of clearing the stern of all the mess. Barracuda taste nice but they stink and are quite scaly, all of which has to be cleaned while on the move.

On two occasions we saw a couple of dolphin near the boat. They didn’t hang around but at least we had the pleasure of seeing them. We’re pleased for Annie and Sam as there’s no guarantee of anything and getting even a short sighting is better than none.

We had a few patches of rain along the way. Sam and Annie didn’t seem to mind, sitting through it out front and drying off once it had passed. I also had a closer examination of my new speargun along the way. In doing so I managed to stab my hand on the tip. Not too deep but enough to make it quite sore.

We finally arrived in Chichime, a popular San Blas stop. There were a number of boats here including, we noticed, Sympitaca. We anchored in what we thought was plenty of space but were wary of the other boats due to their being little wind and the possibility they could be sitting over their anchors. It didn’t take long before another squall came through and blew the anchor lines straight. We almost collided with a nearby boat but managed to get moving and reanchor without a problem. Now at least we know we can swing.

Chichime comprises three islands, one not much larger than the few palm trees standing on it. They are inhabited by Kuna who soon came out (naked kids, dogs and all) in their hand carved canoes to see if we were interested in molas and lobsters. We were interested but in no rush for either and think we managed to let them know this.

Louis from Sympatica soon passed by and invited us to beach volleyball. 15 minutes later we were in the dinghy heading ashore to play 3 rounds of volleyball in the Kuna camp. A couple of the locals joined in too, one on each team. The match was close and a lot of fun. Feeling my age I mananged to twang a shoulder and a hip along the way (and am feeling quite stiff this morning). Neither Helen nor I had played volleyball for over 30 years so this was a real relearning curve for us.

Sam and Annie stayed a little long while John, Helen and I went back to the boat to start dinner. Being covered with sand we had a dip in the sea to clean off before going aboard. Helen prepped the fish and I manned the grill. Later, Sam and Annie swam back to the boat.

The barracuda went down well and most was eaten. The kids helped clear up afterwards and soon we settled down to watch a movie. The movie was interesting but not that engaging and it ended up being one of those we couldn’t wait for to end so we could go to sleep. Without waking everyone to check I’m pretty sure everyone slept (and is sleeping) well.

We’re going to stay here another day. I can read up on the nearby spots from my guide book that came with Annie and Sam. We also have some tips from Louis and from Gerald on Whiskers which will be included in our itinerary. But today will be one for everyone to catch up on needed rest and probably to go snorkeling. I’m itching to try out my speargun even if it’s to blast apart some poor sergeant major.

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All together

After surviving drives through snow, passports left at home, skin of the teeth catching trains, chaotic checkins, delayed flights, delayed take-offs, starvation menus, lost luggage, luggage found on wrong carousel, taxi with punctured tire and a taxi driver without a jack the kids finally made it to the boat. Given all of the above I guess it was not too bad that they were only about 4 hours late. They arrived in the dark so they haven’t really seen where we are. We did go ashore and take a walk to the same restaurant we went to a couple of nights earlier. Back on the boat we stayed up a little before retiring.

Today we’re off to the San Blas. The winds are light but still from the north west which will help us get there even though it’s likely we’ll have to motor all the way there.

On their way ….

We have heard from Sam’s girlfriend’s mum that they all boarded the plane safely and that the pilot was preparing to take off. We also also, via my parents, that the plane is flying but nearly two hours late. If you knew my families history on travel this is a relief.