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Callisto « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

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Life in the city

The last two days feel a bit of a blur. The pace of life in a city is somewhat different and in a lot of ways we’re ready to head out of dodge.

On Thursday Helen and I dinghied off on a failed attempt to find a marina to the east to fill our gas tanks. Helen came along as there was supposed to be a Carrefour supermarket near the marina. Having not found the marina and hence not the supermarket we went back to the nearby Champion supermarket for our second provisioning trip.

In the afternoon we went for a walk over to the hardware and marine stores, unsurprisingly bumping into other cruisers along the way and in the stores. We spent the evening aboard Callisto chewing the cud over cartons of wine.

Yesterday morning I set off again for the marina to the east. One the way, while daydreaming, I ran the dinghy up onto a reef. It was ok but it took me a while to get it off. Later, while trying to find a shortcut, I got lost in a maze of channels in another reef. Very frustrating time. I eventually found my way to the Tahiti Yacht Club 4nm away just before running out of fuel. To fill three 5gal tanks cost me $80 which is the highest I’ve had to pay so far – but not as much as Europe, I know.

I found my way back ok as this time there were no short cuts and I had my full attention going.

We ate lunch out at the nearby MacDonalds – our first in over a year – before heading over to the Puddle Jump Registration booth set up near the visitors center. That didn’t take too long so we headed back to the boat to rest for the afternoon. I went for a walkabout to stretch my legs and looked at a fishing tackle shop. I’d been trying to order parts on the internet but had got frustrated when it came to ordering hooks as I had no idea of the sizes.

In the evening was the formal inauguration for the puddle jump rendezvous. We were greeted Tahitian style with rings of flowers around our necks. After a great Tahitian dance demonstration and speeches we had free drinks and a buffet. All a lot of fun. John hung back with friends last night and didn’t return until 2:30. We know there was a party on a nearby boat but we left this to the younger ones.

This morning we have the rally over the Moorea for more activites there. I’m sure it will be fun but it will be nice to get away from the pack sometime soon.

Pape’ete, Tahiti – first day in

Tahiti at this time of year is very much a geographical and temporal convergence for cruising sailors. Geographically, Tahiti is a stopover for almost every boat crossing the Pacific as there is nothing for thousands of miles north or south. Timewise there is the Puddle Jump rendezvous which is attracting a lot of boats. As a result, we’re seeing many of our friends that we’ve met along the way. Most boats are at the free anchorage (100 boats we hear) past the airport. We’ve opted to pay for the town quay where there are currently 20-30 boats. Amongst them are Imagine, Curious, Inspiration Lady, Callisto, Anthem, Whoosh. Last night InnForAPenny II arrived.

Our first chore ashore was to walk to the Port Captain’s office and pay for our berth. We had tied up to a vacant slot in the finger quays. It turned out this slot was reserved for a day charter cat and we had to move to a semi-circular area nearby next to a park. We were charged the same despite reduced facilities and no security. As a result we did at least get a guard overnight. Later John and I went out to visit the tourist office and pick up ice creams. Not had a Mr Whippy in months (behave yourselves).

Next our Code Zero arrived delivered by Laurent from Pacific Yacht Services. He had to dash but he did leave us with a map showing us where we could get propane. We obtained instructions on how to dinghy to the propane station so John and I dinghied across the harbour, tied to a fishing dock, crawled through a hole in a fence and went over to the propane place. It was closed. We had to return in the morning.

After some more internetting we went out. First stop was the supermarket where we picked up some beer and cheese as well as researching prices. We dropped the supplies off back on the boat and headed down the road to where we heard we could pick up cheap Chinese food served from outdoor vendors in the park. There we bumped into Mike and Anne from Callisto with their daughter. Anne and the daughter had just arrived that day to join the boat for the trip to NZ. We ended up eating together and agreeing to drinks tonight.

By the end of the dinner we were pooped so it was back to Dignity for a cool beer and rest.

This morning was more parts ordering and chasing a misdelivered package as well as Skyping family. I’ve been back to the propane place and had two tanks filled. That’s a relief. A new problem is that a cash card from the Uk seems lost in the post or delayed. This is fixable but could cause a problem soon.

Anyway. Today we’ll be exploring the town some more probably looking into a lot of hardware stores to look for things we may need for the journey ahead.

Rest of park/back in Quepos

Going back a couple of days ago, we did go back to the park around 3pm. We landed ashore around high tide and right where we chained the dinghy to a tree there was a troup of white faced monkeys including one mother with a baby clinging to her back.

We hung around there for a while before hiking the one remaining trail in the park we had left from the morning. This was a circular trail around cathedral point which climbed up, offered some spectacular views over the sea and then back down again. There were quite a few agoutis around which are the second largest rodents on the planet. We also saw one opossum and a few more monkeys.

Back on the boat I had to fix the solenoid which allows the propane gas to flow into the boat. One of the wires had broken right where it went into the plastic of the solenoid when I’d removed the empty tank and we could not use the gas until it was fixed. I lengthened the wires while fixing this so that a repeat was less likely.

Yesterday morning we decided to go for a dive nearby. We moved Dignity and anchored so we could dive straight off the back of the boat. Helen stayed behind as she only likes to go in when it is close to perfect viewing conditions. Ella, John and I were out for about an hour. Most of the time the visibility was pretty poor but there were a few patches where we had reasonably visibility. I saw three lobsters but all were tucked away so deep into the rocks I was unable to bring them in for lunch.

Back on the boat we set off back to Quepos and lunch. In the afternoon I took Ella and John to shore along the way picking up Mike from Callisto. Mike and I took a taxi to the dive store where I dropped off our three tanks to be refilled then went to the propane shop to pick up our gas tanks. We then headed back to the dive store but as our tanks were not yet ready we went round the corner for a couple of beers. We picked up the tanks and a final taxi ride took us back to the dinghy where we loaded up and headed back to the boats. On the way I realized I forgotten to ask the dive shop if they had a spare fin strap so having dropped Mike and the tanks off I went back ashore and walked to the dive shop. I was able to obtain a new strap and on the way back picked up a spare remote control and some onions. The dinghy had worked itself onto a rock and in rectifying this I slipped and sat in the water getting quite wet and embarassed. Back on Dignity I completed changing the oil on the genset which I’d started earlier. By now, much of the afternoon was done with all the chores and all that was left to do was collect Ella and John from the shore.

Today we’re out of here. We’re sailing (or motoring if our recent luck with the weather is with us) up to Herradura/Jaco where we’ll stay a couple of days before moving on.

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A longer walk in the park

Our only real activity yesterday morning was to go out for brunch and to go food shopping. Back on the boat I did a little more online shopping for stuff that our son Ben can bring when he comes aboard in a couple of weeks.

In the afternoon I popped over to Callisto to discuss celestial navigation with Mike. He’s learned and forgotten all about it but I wanted to get a feel for what I needed to do if I’m ever to use my sextant. The conversation turned out to be helpful in a way.

Around 4:30 John hailed us as he was now back in Quepos with Ella. I picked them up in the dinghy and brought them back to the boat. We had been invited over to Callisto for sundowners. Unsurprisingly John and Ella elected to stay aboard Dignity to unwind after their long bus ride from San Jose. We eventually returned to the boat around 10:30pm.

Feeling worse for wear we were up and off around 5:30am this morning to get back into the park nice and early. Once we’d collected our tickets we headed to the beach near the boat to leave the dinghy and go hiking in the park. John misjudged his exit and ended up plunging into the sea up to his neck. Fortunately there are showers around the park which he use to replace the salt water in his clothes with fresh. We hiked practically every trail in the park hoping to see monkeys. I managed a brief glimpse of a howler but that was about it. We did see plenty of lizards, crabs and a sloth. I even saw a snake in the trees which pleased Helen no end.

We left the park and ate bruch at a cafe in the tourist area before heading back to the beach and the boat. Still no sign of monkeys. We’ll go ashore later today when the crowds leave as this seems to be the time the monkeys are attracted to the shore.

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A short walk in the park

Getting up Saturday morning was not a hurried affair. We were due to meet Jason at 9am so we went about our own things for a while. Around 8:30am we went ashore. The tide was right out so the rocky bank we had previously chained the dinghy too offered no opportunities for a repeat. I was left guarding the dinghy while Helen shopped for bread, fruit and veg.

Jason came by in his car while Helen was away. He went off to park the car and returned at the same time as Helen. We were soon back aboard Dignity. I did one last email check before heading off during which I received an email tsunami alert as a result of the 8.8 mag earthquake down in Chile. The alert contained a list of seaports in Central and South America with, ironically, Quepos being top of the list. It predicted a 24cm wave first arriving at 8:16am in the morning. Looking back we had felt some sloshiness in the ever present swell around that time but had thought nothing of it. That all being said, the lat/long given for Quepos in the email was somewhere slightly inshore of the coast of Gabon, Africa so I wonder how accurate it all was.

Soon we were off round the corner to Manuel Antonio Park where we anchored. We first went snorkeling, the first time for Jason. After a late lunch and a rest we went dinghied ashore. We were met by a park keeper who refused us ashore without a ticket. I had thought, perhaps, we could buy one on the beach but no luck there. We had to dinghy out again through the surf getting drenched. We headed over to the public beach and Jason and I went off and bought tickets to enter, even though we had only about an hour left.

Another drenching as we left the beach and we were back off to the park where we again landed. The park keeper again met us, looked at our tickets and demanded to see our zarpe – clearance papers. We now had less than an hour left so we complained that there would be no time to go back to the boat and get it. He let us off but made it quite apparent we had to be off by four.

We spent the time walking some of the park trails. We saw a lot of white faced monkeys, many of which were down by the beaches. They seemed to be waiting for the public to leave so they could pick on the scraps left behind. Some were lounging quite contentedly on branches with their limbs hanging down. It seemed as if they were posing. On our walk we saw a number of other animals which all seemed quite tame and tolerated our coming reasonably near.

We finished our walk without arriving too late. The park keeper was nowhere to be seen but we didn’t know if he would return to menace us so we made our third trip through the surf of the day back to Dignity.

We spent the evening nervously watching a terrific show of lightening all around us. Knowing what had happened to Callisto we were hoping to be spared.

Today we’ll have breakfast together either here or in Quepos, not sure where. Jason is going to help us cart our dive tanks around town so we can get them filled. At the same time we can get our gerry cans filled with gas/petrol and do a little shopping. This afternoon John should be returning with Ella. We’ll return to the park tomorrow and use Tuesday for a fuller exploration.

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