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Found !!!

Tyee are anchored nearby and once we saw them awake we gave them a call to see if they could help. John came over and took me over to the other side of the bay. We almost didn’t see it but our dinghy was up on the exposed coral tucked into a mangrove. No doubt it drifted off around high tide last night and floated into it’s current spot. There was a couple of hundred feet of exposed coral bed between the dinghy and the deep water so we left it there for later. High tide is around 2pm local time. Our current plan is to wait until around midday and take Dignity over and make an attempt to retrieve the dinghy. I still feel like an idiot but at least it’s a relieved idiot now.

I feel stupid

We had a nice leisurely morning waiting for the sun to climb. To get out east one needs to navigate the pass a mile or so south east of Tapana. To maximise visibility this needs to be done around midday. Our timing was pretty spot on as we made it through the zig-zigged passage just a few minutes past. Our destination was the tiny island of Fetoko where Ben and Lisa, two of the regatta organisers, live. Our Ben had made good friends with them and Saturday evening was their post regatta wind down to which they’d invited a few of the folks involved. We actually anchored slightly to the south off the island of Ofu as we thought we may go ashore to explore.

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In the end we stayed on the boat for the afternoon going ashore shortly after 6pm. We had a pleasant evening with Ben and Lisa and their friends, most of whom we already knew or at least recognized. At one point they played some video taken of the regatta and mostly of the Full Moon Party which gave everyone a good giggle. Maybe it will go on YouTube one day.

Our Ben stayed on the island for the night and we returned to Dignity. Disaster. Our dinghy had gone. Quite unbelievable we hadn’t properly secured it and it was no longer there. Ben (island Ben, not ours) took me out for a while to try and find it but we had no luck. The search would have to continue in the morning. He had lost his before and it turned up ok. Downwind of us it is all land and reef so hopefully it will turn up somewhere. Now it’s the morning I’ve been out and scanned with the binoculars but cannot see it. I’m feeling pretty stupid for not properly securing the dinghy when we left it. It was not as though I could even give the lame excuse of having had a few beers at the time as we’d laid off it.

Fingers crossed we’re not facing a big bill and a lot of awkwardness.

Mariner’s Cave / Beach BBQ

Around mid morning Ben and I took the dinghy over to the small island of Luakapa to snorkel as we’d read it was supposed to be pretty good there. The water was certainly clear and it was quite interesting. We’d brought the spear guns just in case there was something worth taking back to eat but there was none of that.

On the way out and on the way back we popped by a few of the boats we knew to invite them to come with us to Mariner’s Cave in the afternoon. It was about 3nm away which is quite far for dinghies. It was recommended to go by boat – perhaps sharing to make it easier. In the end we had quite a few agree to come up – 16 folks in all from Delos, Inspiration Lady, Vagabond, Callypso, Ludmilla, Anthem, Jackster, Imagine & Arctic.

Gary and Jackie from Inspiration Lady were a great help. Not only had they agreed to be the dinghy dock but they also came along just for the ride and social giving us someone to man the boat while everyone got in the water.

At 2pm we had everyone aboard and we motored off to the cave. We found it easily enough as there were two other boats there when we arrived although they left shortly after. Our drop off was a bit far from the cave so we had a bit of a swim to get there. To get into the cave one has to swim down a few feet then along about 12-14 surfacing in a sealed, dark cave. The entrance tunnel was quite large so by going deeper there was no risk of bumping into anything. Inside the cave it is quite amazing. Despite being dark it is well lit from the outside. The surf created changes in pressure that could be felt in the ears. When a partial vacuum was created by the surf going out a mist would form inside the cave momentarily.

There was a second entrance which I’d heard about before. It was about 40 feet down and a little longer – about the limit of what I can do underwater. Forgetting that I’d just done a fairly long swim I went for it. This turned out to be a scary moment as I was gulping for air even when I still had rock over my head. Reaching the surface took forever. I decided to remove my weight belt to help. Just before doing so I realized I shouldn’t do it over the deep water outside of the tunnel exit so I swam over the roof of the tunnel to let it go. In hindsight I could probably have reached the surface in that time. Nevertheless I am here to tell the story but I’ve learned my lesson. The longer underwater stuff can only be done when I’m totally relaxed and not after an exertion. I was soon back in the cave spending a lot longer inside this time with everyone else who were now all inside. Feeling more relaxed I again exited via the lower tunnel finding it a lot easier. Ben also made the exit the same way.

On the way back Ben entertained us by playing on Bamboozle’s piano which we still have. We’d dragged a couple of dinghies out the the cave as a few folks wanted to visit Swallow’s Cave on the way back. We let them go about half way back and headed in.

We agreed to have a beach bonfire/BBQ at 6pm. A few of us went ashore to collect wood while others prepared food. Soon we had quite a crowd ashore and two fires going. We stayed quite late with chatting and some music – mostly furnished by Fergus from Paleides on his hand organ. It was well after midnight before we were finally back aboard. Ben went back to Delos but it looks like he swam back at some point as he’s aboard and there were wet foot prints all over the cabin this morning.

Port Maurelle

The morning was a bit of a runaround. I had to pick up some 2-stroke oil as the load we’d bought in Costa Rica has now run out. Helen and I went provisioning for the next 2 weeks. We’ve got to be back in Neiafu within 2 weeks to extend our visa so we plan to chill out in the outer islands until then.

As soon as we had our provisions aboard we up anchored and high tailed it out of the harbour. Becoming somewhat of a repeated experience we passed Leu Cat who were tied to the customs dock. A lot of cruisers seem to have formed a pair who somehow always leave when the other arrives and vice-versa. For us it is Leu Cat. David had emailed us in the morning to let us know they were on their way in. Given the inevitability of meeting them out in the islands we felt we really had to get out rather than wait another day in Neiafu – otherwise me might never leave.

Our first stop was not too far away – a popular spot called Port Maurelle. There is no port here. In fact there are no signs of man bar the yachts and one home under construction tucked away in the trees. There’s a lovely beach here and the waters crystal clear. A fantastic spot to unwind and recover.

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In the afternoon we took the dinghy round to Swallows Cave a mile and a bit away. Swallows Cave is big enough to take the dinghy in. The cave derives it’s name from the swallows living in their forming their nests on the ceiling. Inside the cave it is dark but the afternoon light comes in through the entrance illuminating the floor of the cave visible in the almost invisible water. We’d brought our snorkel gear so we tied the dinghy to a rock and entered the water. Ben and I both swam down to touch the bottom which turned out to be 50ft deep.

Around the corner was another smaller cave. The extra feature in this cave is a small swim through to a chimney. It’s only a few feet underwater to get to so relatively easy to reach. Helen managed to bump her head on the rock on the way out but no lasting damage.

We just chilled the rest of the afternoon and evening. There are quite a few boats here (many of which we know) which I guess is due to the time of year and proximity to the end of the regatta. Nevertheless it still feels tranquil.

This morning we woke to perfectly still waters. Looking down at all the fish swimming at different levels it felt like floating in an aquarium.

I finally established contact with CatCo regarding our charger. It had been returned due to delivery costs exceeding pre-agreed limits. This has now apparently been resolved and the unit should be on it’s way soon. We’ll see. Hopefully it will arrive around the time we return to Neiafu to extend our visas allowing us to properly enjoy our time in the outer islands.

Wrecked

Around midday, along with all from Delos and Jackster, we dinghied over to the end of the bay we’re in and dove on the wreck there. The surface waters were calm and murky but from about 20 feet down visibility cleared. The wreck is of an old transport ship a few hundred feet long. The highest parts of the structure are at about 60ft deep with the stern deck around 70ft. The base of the holds which can be entered sit around 110ft deep. There were plenty of fish around the wreck as well as many large majestic jelly fish. The iron deck has plenty of holes allowing us to peer into the depths of the ship. Because of the depth it was a short dive of around 30 minutes which was perfect for Helen.

Freezing Rain next to us invited us over for G&Ts at 6pm. We went ashore an hour or so earlier to cash in our free pizza only to discover they don’t light their oven until 6pm. We ended up at the Sunset Bar having their wood fire cooked burgers which were pretty damn good.

Leaving Ben aboard to get in some more piano before we have to hand it back we headed over to Freezing Rain where we also met the Trims and the Worral Winds.

Today we’re out of here. As much as we like it in Neiafu we do want to see some more of the islands around here. We’re off to Port Morell for a couple of nights before pushing off to the east side of the group for the weekend. We still don’t have our tracking reference but have people lined up when CatCo work out how to send an email. Ironically Leu Cat just sent us an email this morning saying they’ll be in Neiafu today and are hoping to see us. This is not the first time we’ve passed each other by. No doubt we’ll see them around here soon.

We’re feeling a little wrecked ourselves after the last week or so. We need some quiet time to recuperate. Maybe not tonight though because there’s already talk of a beach bonfire.