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South Pacific « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

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Back to Baie de Cook

As planned we left the anchorage around 6:30am and motored around the airport and tied up to the park wall in Pape’ete. Ben and I first went off in the dinghy to fill our empty propane tank and pick up some parts from the marine store including taking a dive tank to replace a lost screw which was rendering it unusable. We didn’t get all the parts on my list but we did get all the essentials which was good.

Next stop was to walk round to immigration. There we processed the paperwork to get Ben registered on the boat as well as officially clearing out of Polynesia ahead of time – saving us time and effort in Bora Bora. We had to visit the port captain before leaving but he was out until 11am leaving us to wander around Pape’ete to use up the time.

Eventually we went back to port captain. On the way we met a South African family. It turned out the brother of the mother lives in the same town in South Africa as my parents and sister do. It’s a small world.

As soon as we were back on the boat we slipped our lines and motored out of the port. The winds were light and variable at first so we used a varying amount of power from our batteries to supplement the push from the wind. About half way we caught the winds which were in the 28-34 knot range – a complete surprise. The winds were right from behind us forcing us to jibe our way to Cook Bay as well as forcing us to put a reef in the main. It was a bit of a fight at times as we were keeping the wind on an angle close to where we would lose the pressure on the head sail from time to time and hence losing the balance on the boat. We soon sailed right into the bay and with the slightly reduced winds and greatly reduced chop were able to head into wind and drop the sails.

We anchored close to where we anchored before and settled down for the rest of the day. For dinner we ate the pork ribs given to us by Valentino in Taou for our anniversary present. We watched a movie the end the day.

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Bastille Day

We woke up to an exceedingly clear day. For Ben this meant he saw his first glimpse of Moorea in the distance with great clarity – a taste of things to come.

Ben and I did the baguette run for breakfast after which the two of us headed over to the Intercontinental Hotel to have a look around and possibly go in the pool. We decided in the end not to swim there but to go swimming on the nearby reef which we did after lunch. The swim on the reef was fair but was all worth it in the end as we spotted an eagle ray casually gliding along nearby.

In the afternoon Ben and I spent some time preparing lures. He asked if that meant we’d be “catching fish” when we next sailed. He has much to learn.

In the evening we met up with David and Danielle from Leu Cat for Happy Hour before we headed back to Dignity for something quick to eat. We then headed back to the hotel, collecting Mike and Jody from Savannah then David, Danielle and Shirleen from Leu Cat to all convoy over to the hotel to watch the dancing.

We arrived seconds before the dancing started and had a treat watching the professional dancers do their thing. They had a good show but it was fairly short. The setting was pretty cool and they did include a short version of the Marquesan Pig Dance which was a lot of fun.

This morning we’re off to Pape’ete and then we’ll sail over to Moorea to get away from the crowds and busyness off Tahiti.

Three on a boat

The morning of the 13th started with my going ashore to collect a couple of fresh baguettes for breakfast and lunch. On the way back I learned that the fuel dock was already open. We decided to go and refuel straight after breakfast as we figured there would be less chance of finding someone ahead of us and also having a good chance of finding our convenient anchorage still free. This all turned out to be the case so we were back in our spot within an hour of leaving.

Shortly after we both dinghied over to the Interncontinental Hotel to investigate the possibility of using it as a base for the dinghy to collect Ben from the airport. We quickly realized it wouldn’t be too good but we really enjoyed walking around the grounds. We also learned that around 8:30pm tonight they’ll have professional dancers so we plan on sneaking in for that.

In the afternoon we dinghied over to say hello to Werner and Cathy on Legend II. Perhaps on the most astute blog readers will remember them from our hike up to the top of Mount Diablotin in Dominica – the one where we got thoroughly muddy. Cathy was away in the UK visiting a new grandchild but Werner was there. He remembered Helen in her hiking boots and dress – a rare combination. They’re on their way to NZ via the same route as us so we’re very likely to meet again and will look out for each other. We want to get them aboard one day to learn about the good hiking in NZ.

Shortly before 5pm we went ashore and walked to the airport. We went a little early so we could look at hiring a car for today. In the end we decided against it thinking Ben may be a little tired after traveling from New Jersey.

We ended up having about 45 minutes to wait for Ben to show up. We bought a garland of flowers to welcome him and fortunately he came through quite early. We had our hugs and hellos and quickly caught a cab back to the marina which cost less than I feared.

Helen had cooked up a chili earlier so we ate that along with beers and wine. We stayed up a little late chatting before we all retired.

Today is Bastille Day. There is not a lot on it seems. We had hoped there would be fireworks and dance competitions. There is a military parade in Papeete which doesn’t appeal to us and there is a sports competition on at the museum down the coast. We would have needed the hire car for that but instead we’ll watch the canoe racing planned for the bay here.

Back in Marina Taina

The trip back up north from the eclipse was a little quicker than we anticipated so we changed our plans and headed for Marina Taina. On the one hand it would have been nice to spend another evening on our own on the south side but there were also benefits for getting settled in.

The main activity for the day yesterday was shopping. We provisioned sufficiently so we have most of the main items aboard to get us to Rarotonga in the Southern Cooks. We will no doubt be picking bits and pieces up along the way, such as fresh veg, but the bulk of it is now in. In the evening we went ashore for happy hour at the Casa Blanco with the Leu Cats (and guests) and the Savannahs who we recently met. We all ended up staying for a meal there.

Today we’ll top up with fuel as the duty free fuel here is not a bad price. We haven’t used a great deal but we want to have enough aboard to get us to New Zealand and if the weather is kind to us this should do it.

Ben should be already on his way to us but won’t arrive until 6:20pm this evening. We’ll walk to the airport from here and then return via taxi. Tomorrow is Bastille Day. There doesn’t seem to be much happening here that day. We had hoped there would be fireworks and/or public celebrations or something. Sounds like we’ll have a quiet day aboard.

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Grotto / Eclipse

Mid Saturday morning we lowered the dinghy and headed up the nearby stream. We were unable to go too far up the river before it became to shallow so we tied to a tree on an island in the center of the river/stream. We walked up the island only to discover the only decent wading point was back where we left the dinghy.

Having cross the stream we made our way inland following the crude path there. Soon the path took us away from the stream and up through some rocks. A short while further we entered the grotto. This was an area with cliffs on all sides with water dripping everywhere. Ferns, pink ginger flowers and variegated shrubs made the area look lush pretty. On one side the running water had made a cave that went down and under the cliffs. We followed the footpath, which was running with water, down under the cliffs. It was pitch black in there and we wished we’d brought a torch. In time our eyes grew accustomed to the darkness allowing us to see an underground pool.

Retracing our path we found our way back to the stream and decided to follow it upriver. We found our way into an open section where we didn’t have trees overhead. We continued upstream wading often hoping to get a new view on some of the waterfalls we could see from the boat. We reached a point where we could see the stream exited a steep walled valley where the trees again would obscure the view. We decided it wasn’t worth the effort to continue and turned back.

In the afternoon we spent a short while prepping the boat for the next days trip south. Anticipating possibly rough seas we used the docking lines to secure the dinghy tight to the back of the boat. We set one reef in the main in case the winds remained strong. We didn’t want to be reefing in the dark in over strong winds.

In the evening we finished watching the fifth series of House MD before retiring. Perhaps due to the excitement of the eclipse I found it difficult to get to sleep but in the end I managed.

We woke this morning at just before 5 am. We quickly secured all hatches and ran one last inspection. We raised the anchor in the pitch dark and followed our previous GPS track safely out of the pass. The winds were subdued so I released the reef before raising the mainsail. Soon we were sailing south to our destiny with the eclipse. This is a day we’ve been planning for since long before we set off on Dignity so the anticipation was quite great.

Around 7am we passed over the line that was the further extent of the totality. At 7:20am, using our special specs bought in London over a year ago, we were able to see the first notch taken from the sun by the encroaching moon. At this point the sun had already risen above the cloudy horizon into a promising blue sky. Over the next hour and 10 minutes the moon continued its inexorable covering of the sun. The brightening day began to return to darkness and the warmth left the sun. Shortly before totality I experimented by creating small gaps between my fingers and viewing the resultant patterns on the deck. As expected I saw a series of images of the crescent sun. I have heard of this when people watch eclipses beneath trees (of which we had none nearby).

To our dismay, as the totality approached a large cloud formed and headed towards the sun. We were able to see the ‘diamond ring’ where we could see the suns corona in a ring around the moon plus a tiny amount of brilliant sunshine before the cloud covered the sun. Through the thin parts of the cloud we were able to see the suns corona and we again saw the ‘diamond ring’ when the sun peeked through it’s first valley on the moon. The the daylight began to return as the moon moved on slowly uncovering the sun.

Having the cloud cover the eclipse for most of the time was a little disappointing but it did help us view the eclipse directly without use of our glasses.

Shortly after the totality was over we jibed and headed back to land. It is now 9:30am. The last sliver of moon is left covering the sun. Full daylight has returned. With the speed we’re making we’re heading for the pass at Maraa where we stopped for the first time after leaving Marina Taina at the beginning of the month. Tomorrow we’ll complete the trip back to the marina ready to pick up Ben on the 13th.