South Pacific « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

Viani Bay

by steve, on June 4th, 2011 (Fiji, Jackster, Stray Kitty, Tahina)

Shortly after 7am we were off out of Fawn Harbour. As we made our left turn into the cut we put out two fishing lines and once out of the cut out out two more. The sea was flat and the westerly wind we’d had forecast was there, but it was just one knot. So we motored all the way to Viani Bay. We had one catch, a small Barracuda, just out of Fawn Harbour which we put back. Despite hearing that other boats caught Mahis we did not.

Viani Bay is famous for it’s encircling reef – Rainbow Reef. Famous for it’s clear water making for excellent diving and snorkeling. As we approached we noticed Jackster exiting the reef so we hailed them. It turned out they had the Tahinas and Garimars aboard and were all off diving with the local guide, Jack Fisher. We asked if we could follow them to their first spot and upon consultation with Jack it was deemed ok.

We were soon anchored on a shallow patch on the outside of the reef and then into the dinghy with our gear following the divers up the reef. We were in 20-100s+ feet of clear blue water with a health reef below us. We had the company of a lone white tipped reef shark and thousands of other fish. At one point we saw a turtle. We had intended to snorkel the reef so this lucky opportunity got us in and wet without having to sort out a guide.

Helen and I made the swim all the way back to the boat getting a little stung at the end by jelly fish larvae. A little irritating but ok once you know it calms down fairly quickly. Judy and Colin stayed near our dinghy allowing the current to take them down the reef.

Back on the boat we headed into Viani Bay and anchored near Stray Kitty where we quickly readied lunch. We shared a bottle of wine with lunch setting the stage for a sleepy afternoon. Later in the afternoon our guests headed off in the kayak. It was funny seeing Judy doing all the paddling for a while while Colin messed with his fishing line. I would never get away with that with Helen.

In the evening Helen cooked up another portion of the mahi we’d caught on the way to Fiji – quite delicious.

Now that we’ve snorkeled the reef here we have the opportunity to press eastwards. We like the idea of reaching Matagi to the east of Taveuni and staying there a couple of nights before heading (and perhaps even sailing) back west to the tip of Taveuni and going for some hikes ashore.

I’ve managed to upload four albums of photos for my regular readers a short trip back through the last few entries will reveal them.

Cava

by KC2RIY, on June 3rd, 2011 (Boree, Fiji, Tahina, True Companions)

To the sound of the occasional cockerel ashore we all awoke around dawn and roused ourselves shortly after. Colin wasted no time and had his fishing line in the water catching a foot long trevally on his first cast. We decided this would make a good gift for the family ashore instead of additional cava root.

The weather was none too brilliant at first but by around 8am the light rains had eased. Frank from Tahina was keen to go ashore so he picked us up in his higher powered dinghy and the five of us went ashore. As the tide was going out we left his dinghy about half way up the mangrove tunnel and waded the rest of the way before climbing the muddy track to the ‘main’ road.

We climbed up to Arthur and Sandra’s house and we introduced the newcomers to them. Again we were invited in for tea and biscuits and a long chat with our hosts. As we already knew the way to the hot spring we were allowed to head off there ourselves. Arthur offered to share some cava with us on our return which we accepted.

As a result of the previous nights rains the river was a little deeper than before and the trail certainly more muddy. We reached the hot springs and all found our spots alternating between hot and cold as we did before. On the way back we first went down to the dinghy to move it further out as we could see the area already drying out. We then climbed back up to Arthur’s and were treated to a sharing of cava. We sat around a mat and Arthur prepared the cava in front of us and then shared it with us. A single coconut cup was used, filled then passed to each of us in turn. As each of us drank we’d clap three times. Not quite sure if we were doing it right it was still fun to do. The cava in Fiji tastes a lot better than that in Tonga which tastes a lot more like mud. After each round we’d pause for a few minutes before another round was handed out.

Soon we all had tingling lips and tongues and were feeling somewhat relaxed. Concerned about the tide we bade our farewells. I’d offered to share some music with them as they used their phones for listening. I took a memory chip from one of their phones with me back to the boat. Unfortunately it was of a kind I could not access despite all the electronic junk I had aboard.

After lunch Judy and Colin took the dinghy out to the pass to snorkel. They had a good time seeing a lot of fish. Through the afternoon three more boats came in including True Companions and Boree. I went over to each and shared what I’d learned of the place. As I was planning to go back ashore one final time to return the memory chip I offered to show them the way.

This resulted in the five of us heading ashore around 4pm. I’d warned them about the mud but I think there was some surprise as to the actual amount. We made our way up to the house and I introduced the next set of cruisers. They all headed inside while I returned the memory chip. It turned out their other phone had a chip I could access and as Bert and Ingi were definitely coming back I took this chip back to the boat. I was able to put a few songs on it. I also had a similar memory chip spare so I filled that with similar music and bagged that up with the original.

Bert and Ingi showed up later to pick them up and we invited them aboard for beer and wine. We shared their company up until dinner. They’d had a good time ashore. They’d learned one thing from Arthur which is worth knowing if you’re reading this blog and intend to come to the bay and visit the hot spring. Quite a few cruisers in the past have gone into the village of Bagasau and given sevusevu there then walked over Arthur’s land without permission to visit the hot spring. Arthur won’t do anything about it as he doesn’t want to confront folks but we all feel that if you’re coming to visit something on someone’s land they should be formally asked and permission obtained via the local custom of sevusevu.

Once dinner was ready we turfed Bert and Ingi off the boat. By now the skies were totally clear, the stars were out – a fine evening was had.

The current plan for today is to head east to Viani Bay. That thinking is based on yesterday’s weather forecast. This may all change following today’s which I’ll get when sending this blog entry out.

Back to Savusavu

by KC2RIY, on June 2nd, 2011 (Fiji, Tahina)

Wednesday was the day to pick up our friends Judy and Colin from Savusavu. About 8am we took the dinghy ashore to the creek where we first went ashore here. We found an alternate path to the road which was a little easier than the first we found and walked into the village of Bagasau to await the 9am bus. Not having a watch on us we don’t know if the bus was late but we waited awhile. However, without precise awareness of the time of day, time passes differently it seems and it was nice just to hang out and just wait for the bus. A few locals passed by and chatted. One lady offered us tea. We declined with thanks as we were waiting for the bus. Turned out we would have had time but we didn’t know. Another chap had a fish and some plants, the latter his mother had sent him to collect to help make medicine for his young child.

The bus eventually came. It was a fine air conditioned affair. Air conditioned in terms of it having no windows. Fine being a bit of an exaggeration. The road was more of a dirt track with potholes. The driver seemed to know all of them and avoided them deftly. The going was slow at best and descended to a crawl when climbing hills. At one point we stopped for 5-10 minutes where locals were selling food. Helen and I shared a warm potato roti.

It took two hours to get to Savusavu by the bus but we loved it as it gave us a chance to take in the local scenery. The majority of the journey was through very wild bush which gradually became more cultivated as we approached town. Towards the end we passed a number of small resorts no doubt accessed via the airport in Savusavu.

Judy and Colin had already arrived by the time we made it to the Copra Shed Marina where we’d agreed to meet. They’d had an uneventful journey over. We walked the high street and back before sitting down for lunch joined by Mike, Anne and their daughter from Callisto. After lunch we went shopping for fresh provisions. At the market we just about met everyone we knew still in Savusavu.

Back at the marina Judy and Colin sorted out their flight from Taveuni a week from now. I checked at the office and our Lau group permit had arrived. I had to pay for it and extend our coastal permit from customs. I ran down to the other end of the high street to the appropriate bank. As luck would have it one of the customs ladies (the one who originally cleared us in) was there and agreed to sort us out there and then. I paid in the permit fees and requested a copy which I gave to the customs lady. She agreed to add this to our permit and extend our time out. Now we are set to explore the Lau Group for 2-3 weeks. This works well as they are off to the east of us and we are heading that way right now. Being up wind it’s nice to avoid repeating the hard leg of the trip east.

By the time I returned our taxi to Bagasau had arrived. They tried to up the pre-agreed charge on me but I held my ground. Helen and I popped round the corner to a doctor to pick up some eye drops before returning to pick up Judy and Colin who now had their reservation.

All was set for our return trip to Bagasau. The trip back was quicker but not without event. At one point where there were roadworks and the road essentially mud, a truck had got stuck in the main mud of the road. The bus in front of us tried to go around it and also got stuck. The workers had to use a cable attached to a digger to haul the bus out and then the truck. Our taxi driver made it through the mud. Only just, it seemed. It all seemed quite normal though.

When we were eventually dropped off by our hole in the hedge which would lead to the dinghy the taxi driver got stuck turning the vehicle around. Judy, Colin and I helped by giving him a push. Unfortunately Judy got sprayed with mud. At that time we were joined by Wayne, one of the younger Pickerings returning from school. He thought it was hilarious, as it was if you can see the funny side.

Wayne joined us as we made our way over the barbed wire and through the wet grass to the dinghy chatting to Helen as we went. When we reached the dinghy we gave him some bread we’d picked up from town to take up to Sandra and Arthur. We managed to pile all of us and all the luggage into the dinghy and made our way back to the boat. The timing was good as the water was only just deep enough to get out. Any earlier and we may have had to wait.

On the boat Judy changed and we soon settled down to G&Ts and a relaxing evening with BBQ chicken for dinner. We were all tired well before cruisers midnight (9pm) and crashed for a good nights sleep.

Today we’ll go ashore one more time. We have a few extra things for Arthur and Sandra and we’ll take Judy and Colin to the hot pool. The Tahina’s are likely to come too. We’ll stay here for one more evening before moving somewhere further east.

Hot Spring

by KC2RIY, on June 1st, 2011 (Fiji, Gerimar, Tahina)

This time we went ashore in the kayak which, later, turned out to be a very good thing. We paddled our way into the cutting through the mangrove and tied the kayak to the mangroves where the water was shallow. We then waded through the mud to the dirt track that led out of the place. With all the recent rains I found myself sinking in from time to time resulting in very muddy feet.

We made our way back to Arthur and Sandra’s place where we were able to wash ourselves. We were invited in for tea again which we welcomed. We chatted for a while. Albert mentioned they may be going fishing that evening and I asked if could go along. That was ok. They asked if I had any small fish to use as bait. This was a good excuse to get my spear gun out so I offered to bag a few in the afternoon.

Next Arthur took us for a walk down through their land then up to some properties they look after for others which had some excellent views over the harbour. From there we walked back to their house then onto the hot springs some distance away at the other end of their land. This involved a 20 minute rock hopping walk up a river. The hot springs were a natural up welling of constantly bath water hot water coming out of the ground. Rocks had been placed to form a couple of pools which then emptied into the cold river. It was nice alternating from one to the other. When the hot pool overcame us we sat in the river which at first gave us a cold shock but was soon very refreshing. When the chill from the river set in the hot pool warmed us up nicely. Arthur left us here so we had the place to ourselves. We merged with nature. We finished off in the cold river which kept us deliciously cool for the return trip down the river.

We made our way back to Dignity to have a brief lunch and relax. We discover the tide was right out and had to lug the kayak out of the mangroves over the mud. Had we brought the dinghy in this would have been very hard work. By the time we were back on the boat we were quite exhausted.

I roused myself mid-afternoon to go and catch the fish I’d promised. I could have been quite happy to do nothing at that point but I felt I should follow through. The patch I chose was a little murky and the fish more than a little skittish. They all seemed to have an innate understanding of what a spear gun looked like and did. I eventually bagged one fish. I tried using that as bait to bring others in but that didn’t work. I stuck this small fish on the end of the gun to disguise it. That sort of worked allowing me to shoot two really small fish. With these three embarrassingly small trophies I headed home. While in the water Garimar had arrived in the anchorage and Tahina was on their way in. By the time I was showered and in my hammock to relax, Tahina passed our stern and we waved our greetings.

Later I popped over to Tahina to share what we learned about the shore access and what we’d done. While I was there I saw Arthur coming out on their fishing boat so I rushed back and collected my hand line, hooks and bait. In the boat with him was his niece Mona (who we’d briefly met earlier) and Laura from the next village. We ended up out on the reef handlining for fish for about two and half hours. We chatted at times and often cajoled the fish to take our bait. Mona caught two fish and Laura one which was small and used for more bait. Arthur and I had no luck. Laura spent about 10 minutes with a large fish on her line which she eventually lost. They blamed our poor luck on the weather which wasn’t good. We were drenched with rain on a couple of occasions and lightening flashed in the mountains from time to time. For some reason the fish don’t feed when it’s raining. Perhaps they don’t want to get wet.

This morning we’re taking the bus into Savusavu to meet our friends from Napier in NZ and bring them back to the boat this afternoon. They have no idea how they’re going to have to get to the boat. We think we’ll leave the dinghy where we first landed by the river and find a way through the nearby property. If that fails we’ll cross the same barbed wire fence that we did on our first day here.

Fawn Harbour

by steve, on May 31st, 2011 (Fiji)

We woke up at dawn as normal and soon were off. We’d left the boat ready to go so it didn’t take long before we had the anchor up and were motoring away from our anchorage and off to round the point. We’d heard Imagine and Callisto chatting on the radio and called them both. They’d both sailed overnight from Suva. Hopefully we’ll see them around and about soon.

We had a light south east wind which was sailable but at too tight an angle. Therefore, having rounded the point, we motor sailed south on an over tight port tack to build a better angle. 5nm south of the point we tacked and turned off the power. We were sailing. But not for long. Within half an hour the wind strength dropped right off to about 5 knots and stayed there. We had to motor all the way to Fawn Harbour.

The entrance to Fawn Harbour was a little tricky. We’d timed it to have the sun high but as the sun was to our north we still had it ahead of us which makes reading the reef ahead of us hard. There were markers set into the reef but first time in one cannot trust anything so a lot of care was required. In the end staying well clear of the markers kept us in very deep water as we made the passage through the reef. We eventually anchored in 35ft of water in what feels like a sandy bottom.

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For this trip and the previous we have had no recurrence of our shaft seal leak. This is good news indeed. I didn’t want to mention it after our short trip out of Savusavu but now, after a longer motor, I feel as though we won’t jinx it by celebrating this fix. I must have finally got a good seal of grease in there. No need to beach the boat for now.

After settling down I set about transmitting our position. This resulted in the discovery that we have no internet here whatsoever. Yay. When we have it, there’s always a reason to access it. When we don’t have it, we feel free. Back to the sideband radio.

Soon we went ashore. Now that we’re out in rural Fiji we felt we should honour the custom of sevusevu to obtain permission to anchor in the bay and walk in the village. We took one of our wrapped bunches of kava and dinghied ashore. We found a small creek and tied the dinghy to a post there. We managed to find our way to the road but realized this may not be the best way ashore. After climbing over a barbed wire fence we walked up the road hoping to find the village chief / head mans house. We asked a few folks and were eventually led up to the right house by Mike, the headman’s nephew.

There we were introduced to Arthur and Sandra Pickering (see photo) and invited into their house. We took off our flips flops and entered. We gave our kava to Arthur and he welcomed us offering us friendship and access to the village. We stayed with them for about an hour. We learned that the Pickering name came from Arthur’s great grandfather, Thomas, who came to Fiji from England. Apparently he disappeared while visiting one of the other islands – perhaps to be eaten. They gave us tea and biscuits and we learned about their family and how they live their lives. Among other things, they make copra, harvest kava, fish and hunt wild boar with dogs, spears and knives. We’ve been invited back. We are due to meet them at 9 this morning for a walk up the hill and to be shown the natural hot springs on their property. Tomorrow, when our friends will be with us, we’ve been invited to be shown how kava (grog) is prepared and no doubt quaff some.

It turned out that we had used the wrong place to come ashore. Arthur came down to the dinghy with us to show us the correct place. We brought him back to the boat and shared a beer each with him. Before leaving we gave Arthur some of our mahi mahi caught on passage. I took him ashore where he showed me the correct place to come ashore in the dinghy through a tunnel through the mangroves.

This was a fantastic day for us. Meeting the locals and learning a little about them is far better than the best resort and fancy shows. We finished the day with a meal and a movie and even spent some time on the foredeck gazing at the stars.

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