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Baie d’Anaho, Nuku-Hiva

We left Taiohae fairly early and once outside of the bay found ourselves in northeasterly winds. This enabled us to sail eastwards a little more efficiently but didn’t bode too well for heading up the east side of the island. Around 8am we joined an informal net on the SSB where we talked to Whiskers on their way to the Tuamotus. They were experiencing much lighter winds than hoped for too.

Near the south east corner we came close to Sea Mist who were motoring along the south side. We exchanged greetings on the radio – perhaps we’re soon to meet finally.

We made a long tack off the south east corner hoping to find the right line to sail up the east coast. While doing so we saw a lot of sea bird activity around a patch in the water. This means they were chasing a ball of small fish which in turn suggested there were larger fish feeding too. Our hopes were up as we sailed through the area with two lines out. We thought we’d sailed on through with our usual luck when suddenly we had a fish on. I started winding it in then suddenly we had a second fish so John started winding that one in. The fish I had was a skipjack tuna of a fairly decent size, perhaps around 4lb to 5lb. I put the clip we have through it’s chin and sliced it’s gills and chucked it in the water before too much blood went on the boat. It bled out fairly quickly so I hauled it aboard and took the line / clip over to John. His was a skipjack tuna too but it turned out it had died already so the cutting didn’t release any blood.

We performed our usual roles. I removed bowels and heads then John filleted the fish. A lot of their inner core where the blood had remained was tossed but we still ended up with a lot of good meat.

During all this we made our turn to head up the east side of the island. It was apparent we didn’t have a good angle and would have to continue tacking to keep away from the land. We decided to close the angle a little by giving a push with the electric motors. We were briefly surrounded by a pod of the small dolphins that are abundant around here but they departed quickly. We were then joined by a pod of larger darker dolphins. There were around 40 of them and they behaved a little differently. They were bumping the boat from time to time and where they swam and played at the bows they were densely packed. They surfaced less often and had rounder shaped heads. We used our guide and identified them as melon headed whales. This begs the question as to what the difference between whales and dolphins is as it’s not obvious to us.

This pod stayed with us for at least two hours during which the genset overheated and shut down as a result of a broken impeller. I replaced the part resulting in a bit of a mystery. The removed impeller had one vane missing with a broken vane wedged in the gap. The vane, however, didn’t match the stump. Seems I must have missed clearing a vane last time and the lost vane is still in the tubes somewhere. Having little enjoyment in working on a hot engine the first time I declined opening it up again to search for the missing vane and left this chore to another day. Chances are it’s sitting in the heat exchanger. The gasket for this is falling apart and if I go in there I’ll need to make another.

The whales left us eventually as we rounded the north east tip of the island. We hailed Inspiration Lady as we thought they may be in the anchorage we were heading to as we were now able to return the water jugs they had leant us. We discovered Jackster were there too which is usual as they sail together. They let us know there was a gap in the anchorage right next to them and there we anchored when we arrived in Anaho Bay.

The bay is stunning. Half mile high volcanic rock formations with a mixture of red stone, sand and vegetation. We were keen to get out into the water so we whizzed over to Jackster to learn where best we can go. We ended up staying aboard for a beer and ended up agreeing to host David’s birthday aboard Dignity the following day. They gave us good info and we showed off our tattoos which happens every time we meet anyone these days. We then picked up our snorkeling gear and headed over to Inspiration Lady to drop off the water jugs as they were right by one of the snorkeling reefs. After usual greetings and chat we ended up leaving the dinghy tied to their boat while we swam out to the reef. The sun was getting low so the visibility was declining. However the reef was shallow and there were plenty of fish to see.

After our swim we dinghied back to Dignity and dropped the gear off along with Helen and John. I wanted to say a brief hello to Sea Mist who were in the anchorage. I ended up staying for a couple of beers before having to be called back as the BBQ was cooked. While there a few dinghies passed by with friends from other boats that we’d got to know while in the Galapagos and Marquesas. This is a popular anchorage and one of the last ones before folks head off to the Tuamotus.

John had cooked up chicken, burgers and some of the fish. It was all very tasty. We finished the evening watching an episode of The Wire. The combination of our USB reader/player and TV decided not to work so we had to watch it on John’s laptop. Another thing to try and fix some time.

Today we plan to make the hike to the village Hatiheu in the next bay as well as cleaning up the boat for the party this evening.

Longer term our thinking is now being influenced by the thought that we’d really like to get to Tahiti by June 18th for the 3 day Pacific Puddle Jump party. This is just four weeks and nearly 800nm away. The more time we spend here, the less we’ll get in the Tuamotus. We want to make the best of this anchorage as well as visiting Hakaui on the south coast. So it looks like 3 nights here followed by a slog round to Hakaui via Taiehoe on the same day to reprovision, internet and grab fuel. 2-3 nights there and then we’ll be off to the Tuoamotus.

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Taiohae, Nuku-Hiva

Not a lot to report this time. We went ashore to buy provisions, including fresh vegetables, and had a crepe each by the dinghy dock. We spent the rest of the day wrestling with the local internet connections and finished off by watching the last two episodes of The Fringe.

Today we’re out of here and off to Baie d’Anaho on the north side of the island.

Nuku Hiva

We left Ou Pou around 6:30 waving goodbye (au revoir) to Dianne and Gerald and motored out into slack wind. The wind remained around 8-10 knots for most of the day resulting in slow progress towards Nuku Hiva. The winds picked up for the last hour or two resulting in 7-8 knot sailing and an arrival shortly after 2pm.

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First order of the day was to head to the shore to pick up the water maker pump. On the way I dropped off a weather file to Bristol Rose and a presentation of my tattoo. The pump was in and we soon had it in our hands. We dropped it off back at the boat before we all headed over to Leu Cat who were in the anchorage but we knew to be leaving in a couple of hours.

We had a pleasant hour and a half or so there before we had to get back to the pump and they had to prepare for their departure to the Tuamotus.

The pump kit contained less than I expected which caused me some initial worry. I had expected a new motor as well as pump assembly. However, Spectra seemed to have interpreted the information I gave them exactly and we are now producing water. Yay!!!!

We went out last night with Bristol Rose to the local pizza restaurant. Despite being one of the first there we were one of the last served and some of our pizzas ended up on the wrong tables so we ended up eating at different times. For the extortionate cost of eating out in the Marquesas you’d think they’d get it right. Tipping is not customary here. They work for every penny.

The internet is a bit of a struggle here but I’ve managed to upload a few pictures including those taken while we were having our tattoos done. I’ll try and get a few more up.

Hakamaii / Baie de Vaiehu

The previous evening we’d agreed to meet Etienne at 7:30 to take us down the coast to the town of Hakamaii to visit the local Marquesan tatooist who lived in that village. We filled his truck with 5 gallons of diesel which was part payment for the trip as well as required to get us there. The trip took about an hour over a route that was occasionally paved but mainly a dirt track carved out of the side of the mountains and through lush vegetation. We eventually stopped at the home of Kina which we reached by climbing a dirt path through many fruit trees.

We sat down and looked through Kina’s book of tattoos selecting one we each liked. We had wanted someone who was less familiar with foreigners and hence less influenced by outside tastes and from the selection this looked to be the case. Given the Helen was positive towards this I let her go first lest she change her mind while I was having mine done. Helen chose to have hers done on her thigh so it could be hidden but shown easily as well as being able to see it herself. The pattern comprises sweeping curves with lots of intricate detail with lots of symbols representing travel, family, the Marquesas, etc. I chose a different tattoo but with similar curving style and symbols which went over my shoulder blade.

Having the tattoos done was a little painful at times but mostly relaxing, particularly when we relaxed and took our mind off of what was happening.

Despite the tattoos being quite intricate, Kina completed them quite quickly so we had some time to wait for Etienne to return. While we waited Kina gave us some fruit from his garden. Loads of fruit. We ended up with mangos, papayas, pampelmousse, bananas, oranges, some spiky delicious things we don’t know the name of and some aubergines (egg plant). He then invited us to join him for lunch which was a chicken stew with bread and rice. It was delicious. Kina also turned out to be a tapa maker and a sculptor. He showed us some of his work which we thought was fantastic.

Etienne eventually arrived and we headed back to Hakahetau and to the boat. We immediately left to head south to join Whiskers who had moved down to Baie de Vaiehu. We’d promised Gerald we’d take a look at his computer which had died and we wanted to show off our new marks of passage.

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Dianne and Gerald were very impressed with our tattoos. Helen’s is very strategically placed as it just occasionally shows below her hemline giving the hint of something exotic just out of sight. Quite sexy really.

Gerald’s computer was unfortunately pronounced dead looking like it needs a new motherboard. We spent a little time giving some advice about his laptop which we’ll follow up on next time we meet. We spent the remainder of the afternoon and evening sitting around on their foredeck eating and drinking and watching the sun go down and the stars come out.

Whisker’s are off to the Tuamotus today and we’re off north to Nuku Hiva and our water maker pump so our paths again go different ways. It’s almost certain we’ll meet again in a few weeks though.

We are both very pleased with our tattoos and would thoroughly recommend Kina to anyone else following our wake both for his tattoo work or for someone looking for some unique wood / bone sculptures. Furthermore, given that, from what we can tell, few sailors have their tattoos done on Ua Pou and that each island as it’s own style, Kina’s tattoos should be more unique. His number is (689) 925-585. The town of Hakamaii is not easily accessible by sea so using Etienne from Hakahetau would be a good idea. Hiring locals to drive one around is not cheap in the Marquesas so I’d recommend tying this in with a general visit of the island. Etienne also suggested that if groups wanted Kina’s services he could perhaps shuttle him to Hakahetau instead.

Baie d’Hakahetou, Ua-Pou, day 2

We had agreed to meet Gerald and Dianne ashore at 9 O’Clock. We had arrived a little early and were hanging around a map of the area. There were two waterfalls shown on the map. I asked a local sitting in his car, using my pigeon French, which of the falls was best. I was having trouble understanding his responses until he switched to English which was a whole lot easier to understand. He explained that the map was made by the tourism office in Tahiti and was not accurate and there really was only one waterfall to go and see.

I ended up asking him if he was Etienne who I knew to be someone who offered dinners at his home and knew a lot about the local area. Turned out he was. I asked about eating with them that evening and he was free. When Dianne and Gerald arrived we asked if they were interested too and they were so we had a booking for five. We’d seen Sea Mist arrive in the anchorage and figured if we met them around town we’d invite them too. Etienne said this would be ok too.

So we walked off towards the one waterfall. On the way we passed the beginning of a reconstruction/repair of a traditional village just behind the main village. It was interesting albeit far from finished/complete. The location was stunning so we took a few pictures before moving on. The hike to the waterfall was not too arduous. Our efforts were rewarded with a perfect waterfall and pool set amongst the rocks and jungle. We swam in the pool for a short while – not too long as it was quite cool. We dried off on the rocks before returning the way we came.

On the way we bumped into Dominique and Milou from Catafjord. We invited them along to dinner in the evening and they were glad to join. We gave them directions to the falls and parted company. All the way back we were scanning for fruit trees away from private property. We found some lemons but not a lot else.

Back in the town there was a great big tree in what looked like common land. We were looking up at the huge but unreachable mangoes and examining the squished ones that had fallen when a local women said we could use their stick with a net on the end to help ourselves to mangoes. We managed to collect quite a few mangoes which were delicious. To get at some of the bigger ones I climbed the tree in my bare feet and had the mango net passed up.

We didn’t get to see Sea Mist as it turned out they had decided to move on. I later learned they wanted somewhere less rolly for the night and following day as it was Cheryll’s birthday the following day. Understandable. So far, our contact with Sea Mist has always been by radio – first time in The Saintes off Guadaloupe. Soon we must meet.

Back on the boat I learned our water maker part had in fact arrived in Tahiti and was already with the local freight company to arrive in Nuku Hiva today (Monday) at 11:30am. Quick work. We are not going to get there until tomorrow as we have other plans for today. Helen and I have been discussing getting a Marquesan tattoo for some time. Ordinarily I am dead against tattoos but a Marquesan tattoo performed by a native Marquesan in the Marquesas would be somewhat special. A lot of sailors do it so it’s not uncommon. It’s kind of a mark of ones crossing the Pacific. We have that lined up here on this island today. Helen is still in two minds about it but we’ll see. We don’t want to leave it to Nuku Hiva as it is the largest island, has a little more tourism and hence will be more expensive.

We were back ashore by 5pm and met up with the others. Etienne soon showed up. He only had room for 4 in his vehicle and couldn’t use the back of his truck as if spotted by the gendarmes could be subject to a fine. I opted to walk with the Catafjords for a while while the rest were dropped off. Etienne returned and picked us up. We ate out in his garden which was in an idyllic location looking out over the bay. They had around 32 cats which seemed to get on ok with the chickens also living there. The meal itself was not as good as the one we had in Fatu Hiva but it’s more about the setting and the company. Etienne was a great host. We learned he was once major of the town. He also gave us a one man rendition of the Marquesan pig dance complete with sound effects. It’s a dance about a male pig coming home and making love to his sow. You can fill the rest in with your imagination.

As it was dark we were all able to ride in his pickup down to the dock where we headed back to our boats for an early nights sleep.