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Society Islands « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

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Blowing in the wind

We had plans to take the bus into town yesterday but in the end we spent the day on the boat for a few reasons. One reason was that it was a public holiday and most things seemed closed. Second was that we were getting strong gusts out of the west causing all the boats in the anchorage to swing wildly. Many boats were reanchoring to get themselves out of trouble. Nearby one unattended boat kept swinging into Sea Mist. Sea Mist had their fenders out and were using their dinghy as a mega fender. I boarded the unattended boat and put their fenders out too. After settling down the westerly wind blew a second time giving everyone a repeat performance. Fortunately we had no issues and our anchor stuck well.

We celebrated John’s last night aboard in the usual style with a curry. Later John went ashore to spend a bit of time with a few friends his own age group. John must have mixed feelings about leaving having spent six months aboard. It makes me wonder how we will approach the end of this trip. Fortunately I don’t have to worry about this just yet as this event, bar unforeseen circumstances, is still a few years away.

Party Time

Before the morning SSB net was over John and I headed ashore. I had a date with our agent, Laurent, as he had received a letter containing my bank card. Our old one had expired and we really needed this one. Once we had this we headed off to the Carrefour to pick up some beer for the evening. The local beers had an offer going where the price for 20 was reduced. We picked up 40 bottles only to find the offer was over. I figured what the hell and bought them all anyway. John picked up some Magnum ice cream for a birthday present.

Back on the boat we go into the business of stuffing the beers away into all corners of the fridge and freezer. Later in the morning Helen cooked up an artery busting fry up for brunch which we followed up with the intensely chocolaty magnums.

We spent the afternoon cleaning the boat up and then reanchoring (four times) as we were a little too close to one of the other boats. The anchor seemed to have a lot of trouble setting. We were in 60 feet of water so we weren’t lifting it up off the bottom each time. At one point I asked Helen to raise the anchor out of the water just to make sure we still had one.

At 6pm the evening’s festivities began. We had invited the folks from A Cappella, Bristol Rose, Callisto, Imagine, Inn for Penny II, Inspiration Lady, Leu Cat, Lilith, Sea Mist, Song Line & Whoosh for a combined birthday (for me)/farewell (for John) party. Helen had been concerned about the boat being too crowded but in the end we comfortably held 27 people aboard without people having to spill forward. The weather remained perfect for the evening. With that many people it was impossible to chat to everyone but everyone seemed to have a good time.

About half way through Helen called for quiet so the ladies could enact a scheme they’d come up with (inspired I understand by Sheilah from Imagine). They had put on fresh lipstick and in turn they each sang to me then kissed me somewhere on the face. I ended up, of course, with lots of marks on my face.

The evening went very well. It was good for John to meet up again with a few of the folks he’s got to know. For us, it may be almost the last time we see a few of these folks. Out of Tahiti everyone is heading towards Bora Bora but from there they’ll head off in different directions and on different timetables. While we wait here in Tahiti for the next two weeks, many will move on and we may never catch up. Those going to New Zealand we’ll see but those on their way, like Whiskers, to Australia will be too far ahead of us. However, we’ll meet some new people who are on the trail behind us which will be good.

Helen and I are looking at the various anchorages around Tahiti so we have an idea of what to do over the next couple of weeks. Things are going a bit crappy with some of our internet orders. If we can sort these out we can get out of here the day after John leaves.

Woke up this morning …

… with a smile. Then Helen made toast and coffee. The sky is blue, the moon was setting over Moorea, waves crashing over the reef in the distance. The humidity is down on yesterday. Happy Birthday to me.

Au Revoir Whiskers

Shortly before we left for Tahiti, Gerald and Dianne popped round for our last Au Revoir for some time. They’re aiming to reach Australia by end of November. We’re waiting here for the next three weeks for John to leave and Ben to arrive. This will put us too far behind them to have any hope of catching up or arriving somewhere where they’ve been waiting. By the time we next see them they’ll be CLODs (Cruisers Living On the Dirt). So it was Au Revoir knowing the next time will be some time away.

Soon after they left we up anchored and headed out. With a weather front due in the area quite a few boats were on their way from Moorea to Tahiti. The winds were brisker than the forecast and for a while it all looked good. Shortly after leaving Moorea behind we ran into a wind shadow from Tahiti which slowed us down as well as turning 20 degrees the wrong way. I decided to tack and find the wind again which we did. We sailed all the way back to the reef around Moorea (albeit further south than before) and tacked again sailing away until we found the wind shadow again, this time further out. We kept this up for a few hours ending up at the southern entrance to the protected area behind the reef on the NW side of Tahiti.

Navigating the narrow passage between the shore and the reef we found ourselves facing a canoe race in progress with nowhere to go. We ended up motoring between two of the canoes racing towards us. Soon we found a space in the anchorage near to a number of our friends.

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We went ashore once we felt we were positioned ok in the anchorage and cased out the local supermarket – a large Carrefour. Helen and I had the evening in to oursevles while John visited some friends on other boats.

This morning Helen and I have again been to the Carrefour to collect deposits on some of the beer bottles we’ve emptied. Unfortunately they don’t sell beer on a Sunday. We’ve invited a whole bunch of people over for my Birthday tomorrow so hopefully we’ll be able to score some cold ones tomorrow.

The weather today is horribly humid so I don’t think we’ll do a lot more than just sit here and sweat it out.

Just relaxing

Another day with not a great deal going on.

Early on we were visited by customs who boarded us to check our bonded wine was still in place. Of the two guys who boarded us in Fatu Hiva it was the nicer one who again came aboard. Turned out he lives here in Cook Bay.

Later on in the morning John spent a few hours snorkeling with Gerald from Whiskers while Helen and I dinghied over to the other side of the bay to visit the fruit juice factory. The weather was perfect and the views spectacular although we are getting used to it. Sometimes I have to imagine being back at work, work, work and then suddenly being transported for a day to where we are and remember how it would feel. That’s always a good level set and elevates the experience.

The only thing we could visit at the fruit juice factory turned out to be their store with the upside of having a few tasters of the local liqueurs which left us feeling pleasantly mellow for the rest of the morning.

In the afternoon I fixed a hole in our hammock relishing the returned use of my right hand.

In the evening we ate out with Gerald and Dianne at the local pizza restaurant. Nice pizzas but poured with rain on the way over.

Today we’re thinking of sailing back to Tahiti. John has just a few more days aboard and a few of the folks his age are over in the Pape’ete area. It would be a chance for him to say his last good byes. The forecast winds are at a better angle for the sail today compared to tomorrow although a little lighter. We’ll head for the free anchorage close to Marina Taina this time. If we have to go to the main town we’ll take the bus.