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Grotto / Eclipse

Mid Saturday morning we lowered the dinghy and headed up the nearby stream. We were unable to go too far up the river before it became to shallow so we tied to a tree on an island in the center of the river/stream. We walked up the island only to discover the only decent wading point was back where we left the dinghy.

Having cross the stream we made our way inland following the crude path there. Soon the path took us away from the stream and up through some rocks. A short while further we entered the grotto. This was an area with cliffs on all sides with water dripping everywhere. Ferns, pink ginger flowers and variegated shrubs made the area look lush pretty. On one side the running water had made a cave that went down and under the cliffs. We followed the footpath, which was running with water, down under the cliffs. It was pitch black in there and we wished we’d brought a torch. In time our eyes grew accustomed to the darkness allowing us to see an underground pool.

Retracing our path we found our way back to the stream and decided to follow it upriver. We found our way into an open section where we didn’t have trees overhead. We continued upstream wading often hoping to get a new view on some of the waterfalls we could see from the boat. We reached a point where we could see the stream exited a steep walled valley where the trees again would obscure the view. We decided it wasn’t worth the effort to continue and turned back.

In the afternoon we spent a short while prepping the boat for the next days trip south. Anticipating possibly rough seas we used the docking lines to secure the dinghy tight to the back of the boat. We set one reef in the main in case the winds remained strong. We didn’t want to be reefing in the dark in over strong winds.

In the evening we finished watching the fifth series of House MD before retiring. Perhaps due to the excitement of the eclipse I found it difficult to get to sleep but in the end I managed.

We woke this morning at just before 5 am. We quickly secured all hatches and ran one last inspection. We raised the anchor in the pitch dark and followed our previous GPS track safely out of the pass. The winds were subdued so I released the reef before raising the mainsail. Soon we were sailing south to our destiny with the eclipse. This is a day we’ve been planning for since long before we set off on Dignity so the anticipation was quite great.

Around 7am we passed over the line that was the further extent of the totality. At 7:20am, using our special specs bought in London over a year ago, we were able to see the first notch taken from the sun by the encroaching moon. At this point the sun had already risen above the cloudy horizon into a promising blue sky. Over the next hour and 10 minutes the moon continued its inexorable covering of the sun. The brightening day began to return to darkness and the warmth left the sun. Shortly before totality I experimented by creating small gaps between my fingers and viewing the resultant patterns on the deck. As expected I saw a series of images of the crescent sun. I have heard of this when people watch eclipses beneath trees (of which we had none nearby).

To our dismay, as the totality approached a large cloud formed and headed towards the sun. We were able to see the ‘diamond ring’ where we could see the suns corona in a ring around the moon plus a tiny amount of brilliant sunshine before the cloud covered the sun. Through the thin parts of the cloud we were able to see the suns corona and we again saw the ‘diamond ring’ when the sun peeked through it’s first valley on the moon. The the daylight began to return as the moon moved on slowly uncovering the sun.

Having the cloud cover the eclipse for most of the time was a little disappointing but it did help us view the eclipse directly without use of our glasses.

Shortly after the totality was over we jibed and headed back to land. It is now 9:30am. The last sliver of moon is left covering the sun. Full daylight has returned. With the speed we’re making we’re heading for the pass at Maraa where we stopped for the first time after leaving Marina Taina at the beginning of the month. Tomorrow we’ll complete the trip back to the marina ready to pick up Ben on the 13th.

Bassin de Vaiau

In the morning we wanted to stretch our legs and go ashore. For a while intermittent rains pinned us to the boat but eventually the skies seemed to brighten so we headed out. On the way we dropped by Bamboozle to drop off a glass left the night before.

We tied up in a small marina and walked to the main road. Even though we were less than two miles from the end of the road it was a properly tarmacked road no doubt courtesy of the French taxpayer. The whole area is very lush which we reckoned was due to the geography precipitating a lot of rainfall. At the end of the road was a small river, muddy beach and a footbridge. We crossed the bridge and walked along a path through a settlement. We felt transported back in time. The place seemed so different from elsewhere with some pretty little homes.

On the way back we were caught by a bit of rain but were able to wait it out in a store where we picked up some baguettes. We again popped by Bamboozle to pick up some DVDs they were going to lend us. They invited us aboard for coffee but we declined as we wanted to push on.

When Jamie and Lucy from Bamboozle had been aboard the night before they had told us about the area behind the reef to our east. It sounded very attractive. As the skies were still overcast we wanted to enter the reef with as much light as possible. As soon as we were aboard we raised anchor and were off. Outside the nearby pass we turned east into 25 knot winds. We motored the 4nm to the next pass which only looked passable when we were on top of it. We found a spot to anchor close to the pass.

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The area is indeed impressive. The landscape is rugged but lush. Steep volcanic crags with high waterfalls are all around. With the bumpy passage and misty air we took few pictures on the way round. If the weather clears we may dinghy around inside the reef and get some more pictures of the stunning scenery here. The weather stayed pretty grim for the afternoon so we were unable or at least unwilling to go out.

Near to where we are anchored is a small river up which there is supposed to be an ancient grotto we can visit. It is supposed to have had some spiritual significance to the Polynesians. We will be visiting that today for sure.

We are quite happy with this position as a staging point for our trip south to the eclipse. The extra 4nm upwind means we’ll have an easier run. The edge of the totality is just over 10nm SSE from the pass although if we head south it’s nearer 11nm. We aim to be out of the pass before 5:30am tomorrow, an hour before sunrise and 3 hours before the eclipse. If we make 5 knots then we’ll be 5nm inside the umbra which should give us a minute of darkness. If we make 6 knots we’ll get nearer 90 seconds. I have the edge of the umbral path already entered onto the chart plotter so we’ll know when we’re in the path of the shadow.

Hopefully the weather system that has been going over us for the last few days will lead to clearer air. Certainly, once we’re away from the land we’ll lose the clouds created by the uplift of air over the land so it can only get better. My next blog will probably be after we have experienced the eclipse so keep your fingers crossed for us.

Teahupoo

We’re continuing our push south towards a staging point for our run to eclipse umbral path on July 11th. This time we moved close to Teahupoo where Bamboozle are anchored. On the way we saw Imagine and Sea Mist heading out into rough water so we bid them farewell over the radio.

Shortly after arriving John and Kara, a young couple sailing on Orca a Cape Dory 30, rowed over. They’d bought one too many baguettes and offered us their spare. We invited them aboard and ended up sharing a beer and lunch with them. As they travel without a fridge the cold beer was a real treat for them.

We relaxed the afternoon away before preparing for a curry dinner with the Bamboozles in the evening. A jolly time was had.

This morning I’ve brought myself up to date with our passage log. Currently we stand at 9,384nm sailed to date with John covering over 6,100nm of that with us.

Papehere

Not a great deal to report. In the morning I picked up a couple of fresh baguettes. Around 10am we left the anchorage and headed south. We didn’t like the look of the first place we picked out so we pushed a little further south and found a nice quiet anchorage in a place called Papehere on the charts with noone else around or in sight. On the way over we heard from Bamboozle who were coming in the pass to the south of us where we plan to be tomorrow. We’ve agreed to meet up then.

In the afternoon we did some more boat cleaning. Helen on the inside while I was in the water cleaning the growth off the sides of the hulls. We had a nice quiet evening in together.

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In the bilge

I started the day going ashore to collect baguettes. By prior agreement I picked up a couple each for Sea Mist and Imagine too. Unfortunately they weren’t as fresh as I’d hoped seeming to be left overs from the previous evening. I’d probably gone too early.

Later in the morning I set about finding the current cause of the port bilge pump going off. The pipe that runs from the port bow locker looked a little damp so I emptied out the port bow locker and looked around there for possible causes. There were no stains that suggested a significant flow. The woodwork was damp but this could be explained by the unemptied hose that had been placed there. That could have contributed some water that would eventually make it to the bilge but certainly didn’t explain the whole picture. I emptied out the bottom of the port bow locker and gave it a clean.

Back to the bilge I noticed it had filled some more. I pumped out the water and tested it. It wasn’t clean water but it was nowhere near the salinity of seawater. That was a good clue as it suggested the source was internal. The water being dirty I suspected a leak in the shower. There was a possibility it could be coming from under the shower but we’d only know that through monitoring. On inspecting the pipework I noticed another possibility. Both the second bilge pump and the shower sump pump teed into the same pipe which went upwards and along the hull to the exit through hull further back. If the one way valves in the bilge pump were both slightly open then some of the water from the shower could be backing through the bilge pump and into the bilge.

To test this I put a cup under the strainer for the bilge pump and took a shower to wash off the sweat and dirt from working in the port bow locker. Lo and behold, the cup began to fill a little following my brief shower. I therefore removed the pump fittings and then the pump from the bulkhead before taking it outside to clean. The rubber flaps comprising the one way valves were indeed a little crusty and there was a dead beetle jamming one of them open. This would also explain why the bilge always refills a little after pumping out.

I cleaned it all up, reassembled the pump and reinstalled it. The same cup test and another shower revealed no backfill. I left the test in place and a few hours later when Helen had a shower I still so no water. I was pleased.

Thinking back I think the bilge pump must have been gradually building up a small amount of crud. When the leak around the exhaust occurred a 2-3 weeks ago the bilge pumps were put to use and perhaps then the beetle got sucked in and made the situation worse. Hence, once I fixed the initial leak I was left with the bilge alarm going off but for a new cause. I am pleased the situation is resolved.

During all this time Helen cleaned out the starboard hull ready for Ben’s arrival.

In the afternoon we did little more than read and relax. Both Imagine and Sea Mist headed off. We’d heard that our packages had arrived but hadn’t received any confirmation that we had all the parts. Defender had said (perhaps in error) that the order had been split into two packages and without that confirmation I couldn’t know if we were done yet. We therefore had to hang around for this confirmation. We wanted to eat out so this wasn’t so bad. In the evening we went ashore. To stretch our legs we walked back along the main road far enough to see the fort and to see the sea on the eastern side of the isthmus. On the way back we popped into the larger Champion supermarket in town and picked up a few things. We then went to the restaurant where we had a very nice Chinese meal.

Today we’ll be definitely out of here. We have now received confirmation that all is with Ben and so we can finally relax knowing there is nothing further to chase. We have three more nights to spend behind the reefs around Tahiti-Iti, the southern end of Tahiti, before we dash south for the eclipse.