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Niue « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

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A day in the middle of nowhere

Low tide was around 9:40am local time so we chose then for all three of us to go out and snorkel the reef. The thinking being that at low tide we would have minimal current coming over the reef which turned out to be correct. We first headed over to the nearest section of reef to pick somewhere where Ben and I could go out snorkeling after dusk. We found a suitable spot and made a waypoint on the GPS. We then headed over to the wreck of the fishing boat liberty which stands out on the reef to our NE. As we reached there it began to rain a little. Ordinarily this isn’t so bad but we realized that we’d left the hatches open. As Helen normally leaves the water well before Ben and I she opted to dinghy back to close them. One her own the dinghy travels about 3 times faster so this was not too big a distraction.

Swimming around the wreck one could see a tangle of netting around the propeller. Perhaps the vessel fouled on it’s own nets and lost power and ended up on the reef before the problem could be resolved. The wreck had attracted a lot of fish even though the water around it was only a couple of feet deep at low tide.

Helen returned and was soon in the water. She also marveled at the clarity of the water and how far we could see.

Back on the boat we rested out the morning. After lunch Ben and I put on our wetsuits to clean the growth off the bottom of the boat. Our paint is now practically gone and I’m surprised we were going anywhere as the growth was extensive, even after just three weeks or so. I think the cost to us on our passage here must have been much more than the half a knot I first estimated. We’ll see when we next sail.

In the evening we watched the movie ‘The Zodiac Killer’ which was a long one. This didn’t finish until after 8pm – a good time for us to go out. One of the reasons we chose to come here was for the ‘abundant’ lobsters and a night swim was our last chance to find some. Wet suits on again we dinghied out to our waypoint and went into the water. At night everything looks quite different. There are fewer fish and those that are around are quite skittish. The parrot fish are asleep in their nooks and crannies under the coral. The urchins are out and about. Strange critters are on the move too. At one point we saw some sort of slug about 5 inches in diameter with four tentacles/antennae at the front. It had a flat rear sloping off at 45 degrees with a back side that looked like a small rocket nozzle. It had a groove along it’s top disappearing into a hole about a two thirds of the way along it’s body. Unlike most sea slugs and squirts it was quite mobile. Alas we saw no lobsters despite a cold hour in the water. Nevertheless it was a great experience.

We’ve made the decision to leave here today and head to Niue. Another front is due over around midday. We debated sitting out the front itself and leaving tomorrow. However, behind the front are 2-3 days of 20+ knot winds starting from the S but clocking round to the ENE. On the balance we don’t want to transit the pass out of the reef in strong weather so we’ve decided to weather the near edge of the front out at sea and arrive in Niue tomorrow. In our favour the initial southerly component (forecasted) of the wind will make for a better sail than ENE which will right behind us.

Beveridge Reef

We approached the reef from the north tacking our way in against the wind which was now beginning to clock round to the ESE. On the way in we were hailed by one of the two vessels in the reef, Ile de Grace. We learned that both they and Trim, who we’d met in Palmerston, were anchored in the middle of the reef, presumably to give them room to drag through the recent heavy weather. Our plan was to motor on through to the east side of the reef and anchor on the sand. We learned they were planning a fish supper which we agreed to join and would make plans throughout the day. We had plenty of choice where to anchor and picked a spot in about 10ft of water.

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Shortly after arriving we were met by John and Jenny from Ile de Grace on their way back from snorkeling on the reef. They wanted to say hello. They were interested in the hybrid boat as I knew was Ken from Trim so we suggested having the fish dinner aboard Dignity. Not long after, Ken and Laurie popped by on their way out to the reef and we had a quick chat with them too.

We spent the rest of the morning resting and catching up on some needed sleep.

After lunch, Ben and I headed out for a snorkel on the reef, Helen deferring her swim until she’d heard from us. We were out for about an hour. The water was a little cooler than we’ve been used to and their was a bit of a current coming over the reef. All the same, the water was crystal clear. We could see for a very long way. There were plenty of fish to see, often quite large, and we had a reef shark cruise along with us for a while. We had hoped to see some lobsters. Ben spotted one that looked a little ill and shot it. We discovered it was just a hollow carapace – no wonder it didn’t look it’s best.

At 5pm local time we all met aboard Dignity for dinner. Everyone had cooked something different and it was all good. There was some excellent curried mahi mahi, some grilled wahoo and some mahi mahi pasta from Helen accompanied by freshly baked bread and followed by lemon cake and cookies. Delicious.

Wanting to get into the new timezone and realizing we have another two hours to shift in Tonga we stayed up to watch a movie. Helen didn’t stay a wake for too long but Ben and I made it through. Here we were, miles from anywhere, anchored on a pinnacle of rock rising from the floor of the Pacific watching Kill Bill with the stars shining over head.

We plan to stay here today and, if the weather permits, leave for Niue tomorrow.