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Pangaimotu

Our sail down was slow and drizzly but uneventful. We’d aimed for the eastern passage into Tongatapu hoping to see whales outside in the deep water. No luck there. We arrived around 3pm, anchored behind the island of Pangaimotu on first try and settled down exhausted. We’d all had a troubled night’s sleep and were all ready for a rest.

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Not without first checking the internet. This was fortunate really as although it is free here, it is insanely slow. So we all started downloading stuff then slowing down and resting.

In the evening we went ashore to Big Mama’s where we ate out along with Sea Mists, Imagines and Tahinas. Later, the movie “The Curious Case of Benjamin Button” was shown but we didn’t stay. The Visions of Johanna’s came for the movie so we had a chance to say hello and catch up. There are others in this anchorage we know. The Leu Cats are here as well as the Borees and another number of other boats we recognise but know less well. All are waiting here for their preferred weather window. A whole load of boats left last Sunday. I wouldn’t have but I keep my fingers crossed for all of them as we know a few.

This morning I took the 9am water taxi to the main dock a mile away to clear in. I shared a taxi to the Immigration Office with the Borees. There I discovered my visa was all in order and they said I didn’t need to do anything until I leave. Same was true for customs and the port captain, they said. It may be incorrect but I’m still cleared into Tonga so I can’t go too far wrong.

My next problem was that the return water taxi was at 1pm. I picked up some supplies based on a list that Helen gave me and wandered around Nuku’alofa for a while. I covered most of it in fairly short order and still ended up with plenty of time. I ended up at the dock an hour early. I sat in a cafe and read a magazine to kill the time.

This afternoon I’ve been back on the boat sorting out my ebook collection. Helen has spent all day on her year two perspective – still not finished. Ben has been stuck into his actuarial studies. It’s been too windy today to take down our headsail. Frank on Tahina offered us the use of his sail sewing machine which I’d like to do after taping up the tear. The quick and dirty fix of putting marine compound on the sail repair tape can wait until if and when it recurs.

A new headsail and a service of our old one was already on our to do list for New Zealand. I think the tear is a result of our old problem of the sun strip being a tad too narrow. We look after the sail by furling it tight but the initial damage may be quite old.

Last day in Ha’apai

Our morning started with our new Tongan friend showing up in his dugout canoe offering us a couple of octopii. We knew he needed a razor so we had four we didn’t want and some shaving foam we didn’t like the smell of. Along with a couple of tins of vanilla flavoured rice pudding we had a trade as well as thanks for our tour of the island.

The octopus were quite fascinating as their skin was still changing colour and their suckers, out of reflex, would still cling on to things. Our friend showed us how to turn the octopi inside out and to remove the guts. The guts make good fishing bait so we let him have these pieces as this was his livelihood.

Ben and I chopped the octopi up into pieces and Helen put the tougher parts of the tentacles into the pressure cooker to soften up.

Around 10:30 Frank from Tahina came over and we all dove the reef. We explored the caves some more, sometimes going in. We also explored the wreck of La Tortue being able to get inside that too. I found a fishing reel under the wreck which I kept and later cleaned up. If we meet Marie or Nicolas I’ll give it to them, otherwise it’s my salvage booty.

For lunch we battered and fried the octopus pieces. The novelty soon wore off and we ended up eating the batter leaving most of the octopus which ended up in the sea. I thought the pressure cooked octopus tasted like corned beef.

In the afternoon Ben and I finished off cleaning the hulls before putting all the hookah and dive gear away ready for today’s passage.

I found it hard to sleep last night so I spent a lot of time organizing my ebooks.

We set off early this morning. We motored out of the reef and put the sails up. A new problem. We noticed a small tear in the head sail, no doubt from the bashing to wind we’d been recently doing. A quick discussing about the pros and cons led us to decide to pull in the head sail and press on. We couldn’t lower the head sail to repair it on passage and going back to the anchorage would cost us a day and I didn’t like the forecast for tomorrow.

So here we are alternately sailing, motor sailing, sometimes with the genset on, sometimes running on batteries. Our ETA is late this afternoon as we don’t have the speed we would like but enough to get there in good time.

Addendum

Thinking is now ramping up for our passage to New Zealand and boat projects once we arrive.

I am now listening to the Rag of the Air net each morning. Yesterday I announced Dignity to the net and let them know we’d be joining their role call soon once we start heading south to New Zealand. For the last week or two I’ve been downloading wind forecasts down to New Zealand to get a sense of the weather patterns relating what we see with the various forecasts we’re also receiving. One great source of information is Bob McDavitt’s weekly weathergram which comes out on Sundays. This morning it sets a tentative weather window opening up for arrival in New Zealand after the 13th of November. For us that would mean leaving Nuku’alofa this coming Friday. If the forecasts nearer the time support this we may well leave south at the end of this week following the rhumb line to Opua. We’d take a look at his next weathergram and carry on if this supports that timetable. If not we could divert to Minerva Reef and wait it out.

For the last few weeks I’ve kept a couple of pages open in my notebook to record things to do/projects that come to mind. These range from trivial things like getting new dive torches to getting a better outboard for the dinghy and a new helm seat (the current one is not as comfortable as we’d like). The idea being is that we want to make the best of Sam’s visit to us to bring stuff from the US. Some things we may sort out in Opua (like the outboard and dinghy wheels) and some we need to get in front of (like ordering parts) in January in Whangarei even though we may not do them until March / April.

Mentally this is all a gear change. We’re going to spend a bit of money on Dignity in New Zealand and get busy again. It’s a great place to get things done. We’ve traveled nine and half thousand nautical miles since our last period of project work back in Grenada a year ago and we’ve got another thousand ahead of us. As this will still be our home for the next few years it’s time for a few home improvements and a good spring clean.

A great day

It would be really nice to say that we started our day with a lobster breakfast having done a quick trade with some locals. It really would. So I will.

Just as we were preparing breakfast Ben called out to say we had some visitors. I quickly made myself decent and went to see who was here. A couple of Tongans were here in their dugout canoe with three lobsters for trade – two quite big and one enormous. They asked if we had any alcohol. As it happened, we did. We’d bought some Tongan spirits in Neiafu which we’d grown to dislike. Having no purpose with it ourselves we have them a bottle of the local ‘whiskey’ if you can call it that. Soon we had the lobsters in the pot. We could not fit all three in at once so the two smaller ones went in first and then the large one. A totally delicious breakfast.

The Tongans had told us we could find more on the reef near our boat so later that morning Ben and I went out in search of them. The reef turned out to be a fascinating place to explore – one of our best snorkels to date. There were plenty of small underwater caves we could swim in and the odd tunnel we couldn’t. But we found no lobsters of our own. We swam round to where La Tortue had sunk and spent a while peering inside. It was about 20ft down so easy enough to reach and stay for a while. We decided the whole place was fit to scuba dive.

Back at the boat we decided not to get out of our wetsuits but to ready the hookah so we could start fine cleaning the hulls. When we get to New Zealand we understand we’ll be inspected and if there’s much growth we’ll be forced to haul out and be cleaned off – all at our own expense. We almost finished the port hull before Ben got too cold and the fuel ran out in the hookah so we stopped there.

After a couple of hours of warming up we decided to go ashore. A second vessel, Tahina, arrived. We’d briefly met Frank and Karen in the past but had yet to get to know them. We called them on the radio to see if they were interested in going ashore. They had lunch to prepare but agreed to meet up later.

As we headed in, the dugout canoe, this time with three aboard, headed out to Tahina. We were met on the beach by another local who offered to show us around the island. We learned there were nine people on the island. They all lived on Nomuka but were here for three weeks to fish. He showed us where they were drying out fish and octopus for eventual sale to New Zealand in December. We climbed to the top of a local promontory for a great view all around before heading back into the depths of the island. The paths, such as there were any, were sporadic and mainly grown over. He had to use his machete to clear the way a lot of the time. At the peak of the island he cleared a view out to the bay by cutting away the undergrowth blocking the view. Our last stop was a beach on the far side of the peak where he opened up coconuts for us to drink from and eat – totally delicious.

He then took us back over the top of the island and down to their camp where we met Frank from Tahina and his new crewmate, Paul. We learned from them that the third man in the dugout – the elder – was pissed as a fart. He’d drunk most of the booze we’d traded earlier for our lobsters. As cruisers do we were soon chatting and had arranged for evening nibbles and beers – this time aboard Tahina.

Another short rest and we were over to Tahina. Frank turned out to have an interesting history, was more than a bit of a tech head who also knew the google founders personally. We’d heard about someone with a cool phone with an application that could show and identify the night sky wherever it was pointed. It turned out to be Frank. He also has a hobby flying kites over islands and photographing them from low altitude and feeding the images to Google for their Google Earth application.

Plans for today are to do our dive. Frank will probably join us. In the afternoon we hope to finish cleaning the port hull and to start and finish the starboard. Tomorrow we may move off to Nuku’alofa. The wind has calmed which is nice and the seas should now be settling.

Kelefesia

Helen had not slept well the last night at Nomuka iti. The winds remained strong and despite two reefs to the windward side of us some swell was still getting through. She felt unsafe and couldn’t relax. She was therefore very keen, despite the continued strong winds, to move on. And that we did.

We first motor sailed eastward through the channel between the island until we had room to sail north, close hauled, to clear the reef to our south east. We tacked, missed the reef and made our way south, clawing our way upwind. The boat’s course was over 20 degrees off the way we were pointing so I tacked early to assess the effects of the current. We were making ground upwind but not a lot so I again engaged the engine to allow us to pinch 13 degrees off the wind.

As we approached Kelefesia we could see it was one of the most picturesque anchorages we have ever dropped the hook in. The anchorage itself has plenty of patches of coral so we took our time to find somewhere where we could drop the anchor and not foul the chain. Like the last place, we’re here all alone. Perfect.

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This is were the sail boat La Tortue foundered a few weeks ago although their circumstances were somewhat different to ours. We’ve heard about this unfortunate sinking for some time and it was only yesterday that I saw the boat name in text. I recognized it immediately. Marie, one of the couple sailing her, was one of my partners in the tridecagonathlon at the end of the Vava’u Regatta (remember the pies). That struck home.

Despite the beautiful beach and excellent snorkelling opportunities we stayed aboard. Helen was tired and needed to rest. Ben wanted to relax after the bouncy passage. When I looked at the weather forecasts yesterday the wind was due to calm down soon and in a couple of days clock round more to the east. If these two things happen then it would be good to stay here another couple of nights making for an easier passage down to Nuku’alofa / Tongatapu.