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New Zealand « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

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Sat/Sun

Saturday was a very slow day. We needed it. It didn’t rain much except for when we went to Te Anau for pies when the rain picked up. Helen read. I solved more Euler Problems including a couple I’d been deadlocked on.

Today, Sunday, we had a bit of a lie in before having a late breakfast/brunch. Anticipating more rain we headed into Te Anau to visit the cinema and the planetarium. The weather seemed so good that we decided to visit the Doc Center and pick a hike. In the end we decided to hike a part of the Kepler Trail from Rainbow Bridge to the first hut. To our surprise we bumped into Laura and Martin who we first met in Tonga who were crewing aboard Jenny. We ended up hiking along with them and chatting. We all got as far as Shallow Lake where we sat down for a bit. The rain began and threatened worse so we headed back to the fork in the trail and parted company.

It was nice to have a day off yesterday as we were getting exhausted. It was getting too easy to lie around all day though and it’s been good to get going again. Having gone off the idea (during the lazy day) we’re back to contemplating doing the Kepler Trail all round. It is very much dependent on the weather as tomorrow it is again forecast to rain heavily and the day after it gets cold. If we plan and gamble a little we may pull it off.

Milford Sound

The alarm went off at 7am. We’d packed as much as possible the night before so we groggily arose and packed the remainder of our stuff and the tent. Fortunately the night had been warm and there was no dew on the tent. We had time for breakfast before setting off along the road to Milford Sound.

The sky was overcast and rain did fall on our way north. At one point we wondered if we’d made a bad gamble on the weather. However, the low clouds were sporadic and we were able to see most of the mountains around us. As we approached the tunnel we were rewarded with water cascading down the bare bowls of the valley ends. Exiting the tunnel we were presented with an awesome sight of the valley beyond with more cascading falls from the very recent rains.

We arrived at the visitor center with over an hour to spare so we checked in and went for a wander around. The was a 15 minute return hike to a lookout point that took us about 5 minutes. At one point we spotted a penguin sitting in the bushes and took a few pictures.

The boat we’d picked was the Mitre Point service because we’d (correctly) heard it was the smallest boat out there and that we would be able to stand at the front of the boat getting close to the places we would be taken. When it was time to board the boat we made our way to the front and settled down. The cruise around the sound took a couple of hours. The scenery although mostly lacking sunshine was pretty spectacular. On a couple of occasions we saw fur seals basking on the rocks and we were taken very close to a few waterfalls. The last week had been quite dry so a lot of the falls were dry too but the main ones were flowing with vigour.

On the way back from the sound we stopped off at a nearby place called The Chasm where water had turned the rocks into a honeycomb with holes large enough for trees to get stuck in. I forgot my camera on this one and had to take pics with my phone.

At ‘The Divide’ where we had planned to hike a small part of the Routeburn Trail we stopped to check things out. The clouds overhead were quite low and would give us no view if we climbed up to where we wanted to go. Helen was feeling as though a cold was coming on so we skipped this hike and headed back into Te Anau to shop and then onto the Backpackers to settle in.

And the Barnyard Backpackers is where we are. We’ve had a good night’s rest. The shared area in the barn was quite cozy in the evening with a real log fire blazing. We’ll be here for a few days. The rain has started but is not yet strong. We’re feeling the need for a couple of days of rest following our recent activity and this seems a nice place to get it. There is no internet hotspot here but I can use my phone as a modem. It works fine in the barn but here in the room the signal is weak. I’ve managed to have a session by putting my phone up on top of the curtain rail.

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Remarkables …

Within minutes of writing the last blog we changed our minds and decided to head to Te Anau today. That meant packing the tent and leaving which we’re getting pretty efficient at doing now. Of the two hikes we had planned we decided on still doing the shorter one from the top of the road that goes up to the Remarkables Ski area. The road climbed nearly a mile vertically (though not all at once) from the lake offering us the most fantastic views. From the top we could see over the nearby mountains all the way to Mt Cook/Tasman and the various glaciers. We hiked to find Lake Alta but ended up going the wrong way but still ended up somewhere pretty cool. The only downside was that there was a lot of construction going on up there so the noise spoiled the ambiance a little.

The drive to Te Anau was superb – I keep using these superlatives but they’re necessary. For a while we were in flattish land which surprised us but towards the end we were back in the mountains. We checked out one out of town campsite before checking into the Top 10 in town. We weren’t overly happy with it but we wanted at least somewhere to settle down to make up our minds what to do next. The weather forecasts for the weekend continue to show a deteriorating picture. We walked around town a little and checked out a few alternative motels. In the end we called up then checked out a backpacker place about 6km outside of town. Log cabins overlooking the mountains. The shared kitchen is a bit of a walk away but it all looked cosy. We’re booked in from tomorrow night to wait out the weather.

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Tomorrow we’re going to get up early, pack the tent and drive down Milford Sound and take a short nature cruise. If the weather holds we’ll hike the end of the Routeburn Trail which is supposed to be pretty good.

On the River

Where we are staying is right by where jet-boating down narrow canyons all began in New Zealand. There are at least three outfits offering jet-boating experiences round here all about the same high price. We opted for the one that required a long bus ride to get there for no extra cost. The reason being was that the bus took us almost to the top of a nearby mountain before descending down a hair raising track the other side down to a higher section of the Shotover River. The bus ride, with commentary from the driver, became a bit of a tour and made for a better value deal all round.

With our nerves mostly intact the occupants of the bus transferred to two jet boats that whizzed up, then down, a narrow section of river with rock cliffs climbing either side and plenty of seemingly impassable shallows. The drivers were fortunately very skilled at what they did and made it a fun ride. There were a few stops to look at abandoned / destroyed gold mining equipment reminding us of the differing fortunes of the area in past times.

Back on the bus we were taken to a former bungee jump site for the view and a needed (for some) break before returning the way we came.

As it was now mid-afternoon and we had missed lunch we drove into Queenstown for a wander around and to eat out. We opted for an Irish pub on the waterfront and managed to get balcony seats so we could watch the world go by while downing Guinness and our stew/bangers and mash. Queenstown is in a very picturesque setting but was a bit too busy for us. We’re glad we’re camping up in the hills.

Our plans are to head towards Te Anau and Milton soon. However, the weather gods seem to think the recent good run on the weather has been enough for us and the look ahead is not promising. We’ve decided to stay here an extra day and decide what to do tomorrow. Today we’ve picked a couple of hikes to do.

Arrowtown/Queenstown

We had a bit of a lie in before leaving our motel. Partly due to the comfort. Mostly due to finishing off things on the internet. With the advice of our eldest, John, I’ve bought a better camera to work underwater. Long term blog readers may have noticed the far better quality of his underwater pics compared to mine and I want to do better (than my old ones).

Our plan was to drive to Arrowtown and then on to Queenstown to find a campsite. After leaving Wanaka I noticed that we were pretty low on fuel. We decided to keep going and chance it. I ended up feeling quite nervous as the road took us up into the clouds over a kilometer from sea level. There was a view point at the top but it was like the inside of a ping pong ball and I didn’t want to risk running out of fuel. Our GPS listed the nearest fuel station as being near Queenstown so we postponed Arrowtown and went straight for the fuel.

Now that we were in the Queenstown area we checked out a couple of holiday campgrounds there and after finding them a bit too crowded we headed out to the top 10 near the shotover river. This campsite was far better and up in the mountains so be booked a spot and put the tent out to air.

We then drove to Arrowtown and found it as quaint as we’d been told by many others who had encouraged us to go there. We had pies for lunch and then wandered around for a while. As the weather was perfect we decided to go for a nearby hike. On the way we saw a couple coming towards us waving madly. I took me a second to realize they were waving as and then a second more to realize it was Brian and Jodon from El Regalo who we’d first met out in Fakarava. What a nice surprise. We sat on a bench chatting for a while and catching up. They’d just been on the same hike we were heading for. They were moving around by bus and soon had to catch their’s. We exchanged phone numbers in case we can hook up again.

Our hike was a 2-3 hour loop around German Hill called Sawpit Gully – Arrow Gorge track. This was a very enjoyable hike albeit with a strenuous climb to begin with. Against Brian’s advice we went clockwise to get the steep climb over and done with and have a more leisurely descent. The high point of the hike didn’t quite reach the peak of German Hill. Helen and I had different oppinions on whether or not we should take the side trail to the top. We ended up with Helen seeking shade while I took to the summit.

We soon met up again and made our way down. The scenery was, as ever it seems round here, fantastic. We met an English couple by a waterfall and chatted for a while before heading down to town. After picking up some supplies in the supermarket we headed back to the campsite and set up all the bedding, chairs and tables in the tent before cracking open a beer for our pleasure.