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Moaning and Groaning

We did a lot of that yesterday. Particularly if we hadn’t moved for a few minutes and then did so. Despite the pain in our muscles and joints we both agreed the cause, the previous day’s hike, was worth it.

Once moving the pain would go away so we did manage to get a couple of chores knocked off the list. Helen waxed the dodger (which protects it from UV) and I WD40d every hinge and catch on the boat. Very tedious but only need be done once a year. It prevents any hinge from seizing and subsequently snapping when used.

Not much else to say about the rest of the day. The weather was far less clear than the previous day. On the day of our hike we set a record on the solar panels – 290Ah made in one day.

Today we may move the boat. One incentive is to get hot water. We’re too stingy to run the generator just for hot water. We’ve no need to charge the batteries because wind/solar is keeping us up and we don’t have enough washing yet to do a wash. The winds, while forecast to be strong, are shifting to easterlies. We should be reasonably sheltered by the island if we move south. There’s a number of possible destinations. We’ll need to discuss our options.

Mount Hobson

We had a big hike planned for Wednesday – the 621m ascent of Mount Hobson, the highest point on the island. After preparing lunch (copious egg sandwiches) and having our breakfast we took the dinghy ashore to Bush beach on the south side of the bay we’re anchored in.

Expecting a nice coastal walk to begin our hike we were, instead, presented with a steep climb up above the beach. At the top we were presented with our first sign post to the summit declaring it to be 3½ hours away.

We walked on through typical splendid New Zealand forestry along the Kaiaraara Track that would eventually lead us up to the summit. We had to cross streams a number of times via suspension bridges and wooden bridges.

We eventually reached a pretty well preserved kauri dam. We learned these were used to build up a head of water behind them where loggers would stack kauri logs. When they had enough they would trip the dam creating a deluge of water and logs down the stream smashing down everything in its way. Apparently it could be heard for miles.

We rested here for a while refreshing ourselves with an orange each. Here we jinxed our future by discussed our recollection of what we’d been told by the guide at the DOC field center a few days before. I felt we were on the shorter, steeper path up to the summit which the guide had said had a lot of steps. Helen came out with the fatal words along the lines that she felt we really hadn’t seen too many steps.

The path onward from the dam was less maintained than the path to that point. Up until then, we either had gravel path with drainage on one side or wooden steps/walk ways. Now we were on a rough path having to climb over rocks and roots with occasional wooden steps. Initially that is. But this was a lot more tiring than the well made path.

Then the steps began. And never stopped it seemed. In hindsight I think it was nearly half an hour of continuous climbing and for a large part up 45 degree slope. We both found a pace which we could simply continue without stop. One step after the other. We learned not to look up as sometimes it was disheartening. We would occasionally be given the impression of reaching the top only to find more steps ahead.

From time to time we were rewarded with great views looking back to the anchorage we were in. But we knew not to stop too long and savour them as if our muscles cooled and our hearts slowed down it would be a nightmare getting going again.

So we put our heads down and kept putting one foot ahead of the other.

We eventually reached a fork in the path where a sign indicated we had only 2 minutes to reach the summit. This was very encouraging.

On this last section we met two people coming the opposite direction – the first two people we had met all day. They reassured us that we really were near the top. Perhaps we looked like we needed reassurance.

We made it to the top exactly 2 hours after we’d passed the sign saying it was 3 ½ hours away. While we know the trail guidance here is usually cautious we were quite proud of the time we’d made it in. And this included the stop at the kauri dam.

At the top we were rewarded with an astounding 360 degree view of the surroundings. We had a light breeze to counter the sun blazing out of a clear blue sky. Can’t think of a much better place to rest, take in the view and scoff our lunch.

But what goes up must come down and soon we shook our tired muscles back to life and headed back down. Given our time up we decided to take a different and longer path down.

After a long descent down a different set of stairs which made our legs wobbly, this path turned out to be rough all the way down to the forest road. It was also quite slippery in places. We both ended up on our back sides on a few occasions. This meant that almost every step on the way down had to be carefully taken and controlled. It was exhausting. On the upside we were presented with some open views of the summit we had recently ascended and the steepness of the final sections.

We had more stream crossings to make, often having to ford rather go over a bridge. One bridge we did cross was more like a horizontal steel rope ladder with nets either side. It had a load limit of one person at a time. It was very wobbly and a little scary.

We eventually made it down to the forest road which was a lot easier to walk on. We still had about ½ an hour to reach our dinghy. We reached the boat, with great relief, just under 6 hours after we’d left it in the morning.

We both flopped down and rested. I’d started the water maker before collapsing and was roused from my slumber by the bilge alarm going off for a second time. Turn out one of the high pressure connecters needed a turn with the spanner. With that sorted I was done.

We did get up and about for a delicious curry dinner and a movie in the evening. In our tiredness we were both asleep again quite early.

No surprise, today we both ache. We both have sore knees and our calves and thighs ache. My back and shoulders ache from a couple of heavy falls I took on the way down. We don’t plan on doing too much today.

The following pictures include a few from our first couple of days at Great Barrier Island.

Just a nice day

Two appologies to begin with. First, the blog went out late. I wrote it early but it got stuck in my out box which we didn’t notice until late in the day. Second, on reading my blog again I may have misrepresented the size of Port Fitzroy. A reader might easily assume a number of residential/other buildings nestled amongst those that I mentioned. No. Sorry. That was mostly it.

So yesterday was simply one of those days that was just nice. After a bit of a lie in I got out in the dinghy and fished in a spot recommended by the lady in the shop and caught a couple of red snapper. Not very big but big enough. They came back to the boat, were popped in a bag and put in the fridge for later disassembly.

We then went ashore for our walk. It was nearly high tide so we had no problems with the mud. We walked to the nearby campsite and dropped of our trash and then hiked the Warren trail that took us up through the woods, past a cascading waterfall and then met the bridle path we’d been on the previous day. We carried on into Port Fitzroy to pick up some fresh veg to go with the fresh fish.

Next stop was the burger bar down by the ferry dock. It turned out to be open and we ordered a burger and fries each. They turned out delicious but way too much for us. We could have got by sharing a portion of fries between us.

Back at the boat I had a little siesta before we moved the boat round to Kaiarara Bay ready for our hike today.

The rest of the afternoon was relaxing and reading. The sky was blue and the sea flat. We gently floated around our anchor with the surrounding green hills moving around us. Very serene.

Finished off the day watching Invictus. A pretty good movie about the Springboks and their world cup attempt immediately following the end of Apartheid.

Out Here

We finally made it out here to Great Barrier Island which, quite coincidentally, is called Aotea in Maori – something we did not know at the start of day.

The start of day was actually characterized by a calm anchorage. The strong southwesterlies so apparent the previous day had disappeared. We hoped the winds were simply obscured by the mainland and we hadn’t made a terrible mistake delaying a day. All the forecasts called for winds in the high teens so with undeserved trust in them we set off.

We had the sails up quite early and, just in case of a sudden onset of the wind, we had two reefs in the main. With under 10 knots of wind and the incoming tide against us we had the port side motor on to help us get away from the land and, for evening delight, heat up the water.

It took about an hour and a half to find the wind. Once in it we soon had the motor off and were sailing at first at around 6 knots, then 7, then up into the 8’s and 9’s. The wind was right behind us so rather than run wing on wing we jibed our way towards our destination. The trip was ultimately quite exhilarating and, with the chop behind us, quite comfortable.

We approached Great Barrier Island via the south of Kaikoura Island to the west of Port Fitzroy. As we rounded the corner and placed the main island to our south we got a respite from the winds and used it to take our sails down. The pass between Kaikoura Island and the mainland is only 40m wide and we wanted to be under engine power and in full control of the boat as we passed through.

Once through the pass we motored up towards Port Fitzroy. As we approached the port it was apparent that the south westerly wind was gusting straight up into the port making the anchorage potentially quite rolly so we took a right and anchored in Forestry Bay just to the south of Port Fitzroy.

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After letting the anchor set, moving the boat a bit then letting the anchor set again we headed ashore to stretch our legs. With the tide nearly out we got the dinghy as far as a rocky beach but had to step out into mud. The dinghy wheels installed last year were really helpful getting the dinghy across the rocky beach to where we tied it to a pole.

We walked along a rain soaked path to the nearby DOC hut where we met the guide busy on her computer. She told us to grab the “Out Here” pamphlet while she finished up. We were now seconds away from discovering the Maori name for the island as after much searching for an unfindable “Out Here” pamphlet the guide finished what she was doing and promptly pointed us towards the Aotea pamphlet. From this and some discussion we have an idea of some walks we could do on the island.

We then walked to the bustling metropolis that is Port Fitzroy by way of a bridle path which took us up above the stone track the cars use.

The bridle way (completely absent of hoof prints nor dung) brought us down by the village shop (which was open) and the tourist shack and bookshop (which weren’t open). We had a little look around the shop which also had a cafe which opened on Fridays to Sundays (but is closed next weekend). We then took a further walk to the Yacht Club bar/restaurant which was without an owner and also closed, but for good.

Having now fully explored Port Fitzroy (we thought) we headed back to the shop and picked up some bread, milk and frozen squids (fish bait). We walked back to the dinghy by way of the road passing the ferry dock which had a burger bar (which was, you guessed it, closed but chalked up the possibility it could be open today).

Back at the dinghy to tide was now fully out and it was a completely mud infused affair getting it back deep enough to get away from the shore and back to the boat. Fortunately I neither lost nor ruined my flip flops in the sucking mud.

The evening was filled with Spaghetti Bolagnaise, a movie and deliciously hot showers.

Today we’ll keep it light. I may try a little fishing and we plan to walk to some nearby waterfalls followed by lunch at the burger place (you never know, it might be open). This afternoon we plan to move the boat around to the bay to the south of us and anchor there ready for a climb up to the top of Mount Hobson tomorrow. The weather promises to be fine for today and tomorrow. Looking forward to it.

Dangling

We made the decision to stay one more day here by Kawau Islands. The Kilkeas, with ambitions to be off to Australia on Monday made the decision to head up the coast to Marsden so we bade our final goodbyes as they left the anchorage.

The rough patches on our starboard shroud cover were bugging me so shortly after lunch I had Helen haul me up the mast in the bosun’s chair. With the chop in the water on the north side of the bay I was swinging around up there alarmingly so I came straight back down and we moved the boat over to the south side of the bay. Up in the rigging the motion wasn’t quite so bad as before and I managed to cut away 4 segments where the sail batons had rubbed through the plastic shroud cover creating sharp holes. I managed to tape over one cut out section before feeling quite ill from the swinging around. I came back down.

The chop in the bay didn’t calm down until the evening so the other three sections are untaped. I’m wondering if it’s best to leave it that way as it allows the shroud cover to rotate and may reduce friction if in contact with the sail later on. Will cogitate on this.

Weather looks good to go to Great Barrier Island today. The winds are a little down on yesterday and the chop will now be behind us rather than ahead. This latter point makes a lot of difference to comfort. The plan is it head into Port Fitzroy and spend a few days there before moving around the island perhaps to other anchorages.