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Windancer IV « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

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Fri May 30 09:02GMT (9:02am ship time)

37°47.9’N 33°9.7’W
SOG (Speed over Ground): 6.6 knots (motoring)
Heading: 075
Distance to Horta: 219nm
Distance from Bermuda: 1,577nm
ETA (Horta): 6pm Saturday May 31

Ship time has now been changed to UTC so we can align our minds (and stomachs) to landfall. Using this new reference my watch last night was from 1am to 3am. Bob, who preceeded me wanted to shut off all the ships lights so he could see the phosphorescence better. Not that I could see any. It seems it stopped right at the beginning of my shift. He said it had been brilliant for his entire two hour shift. I wasn’t let down as 5 minutes into my shift we were escorted by yet another pod of dolphins. Each one generated a shimmer of phosphorescence around it’s body. They looked like ghosts. When they jumped out of the water for air, their landing would create an extra splash of light. Cool. For the rest of my watch I got rained on and saw a freighter which passed 4nm away. It was very overcast and hence the darkest watch I have had. By the end of my shift the wind was behind us and practically the same speed as we were motoring through the water. This led to a very strange sensation of feeling at stand-still with barely a breeze on my face. Despite the early hours, it felt quite warm.

This morning I was woken by thumping on my cabin roof. We were minutes from dawn. While the skies overhead were still cloudy, the horizon was clear. Every shade of red and orange was already visible. I made it on deck before the sun rose. When it did, it appeared as a brilliant point of orange-red on the horizon. Renewal. Another day had dawned but in the most spectacular way possible. The gap between horizon and cloud was barely the apparent width of sun so it was not long before we were back to gray skies and drizzle.

The wind has dropped to practically nothing and the sea is pretty flat. Again more dolphins this morning (beginning to sound old already). This mornings show was notable for a couple of reasons. One: this was probably the largest pod we have seen ? somewhere between 25 and 30 individuals. Two: the sea being so clear allowed us to see the dolphins very clearly beneath the surface, something we’ve not been able to do before.

Timing for tomorrows landfall is perfect. At dawn we’ll be somewhere between 60 and 80 nm from land. With Pico being a 2.3km high volcano being a spitting distance from Horta this may be the first thing we see. I’m sure all eyes will be on the horizon.

… 10 mins later …

I’ve just been interrupted by yet another dolphin show. This one you need to picture. Imagine a flat sea with the boat motoring along and six and a half knots. Now imagine five or six separate groups of dolphins at various points and distances around the boat all doing their thing. Then imagine most, but not all, of these groups coming over to investigate the boat and spend their few minutes dancing at the bow. No ? I am not yet tired of these shows in any way.

Thu May 29 20:43GMT (5:43pm ship time)

37°30.2’N 34°43.8’W
SOG (Speed over Ground): 6.9 knots (motoring)
Heading: 080
Distance from Bermuda: 1,502nm
Distance to Horta: 296nm
ETA (Horta): Saturday (evening) May 31

The weather started of great today. The sun was out and so were we. For a few hours, we were accompanied by some fish, about a foot long, swimming ahead of us at the bows of the boat. We tried to catch them using spear and net but to no avail. At one point Bob caught them jumping out of the water with smaller fish in their mouths as if to say our lures were no good. We caught sight of dolphin in the distance but no playful antics around the boat today. During dinner we rushed off to steer the boat towards a drifting float with a radar reflector on it. Bob managed to lift it out of the water and I spotted a crab. I flicked it off and it landed on Bob’s foot. We made a pigs ear of letting it go as it tangled with the fishing line. We had to stop the boat and haul it towards us and untangle the line lest we lose another lure. I guess you can tell, the fish have chalked down another day against the crew of Windancer IV.

After dinner we watched a little Monty Python.

Crew are beginning to shows of fatigue. Earlier today we passed near another sailing boat called Solaris. Jim hailed them on the radio to find they were 22 days out from Antigua on their way to the Azores. Hopefully we can meet up their and learn more of their travels. There must be quite a few boats out her for us to run into one out in the middle of nowhere. Apparently, Horta is the fourth most frequented marina in the world ? I guess it’s all the Atlantic crossers making their stop.

John changed the dinner schedule today so we are eating closer to Azores timing. Until now we have been keeping closer to ship time, set in Bermuda. Another sign we are two days from land. Thoughts of land begin to influence us more and more. It’s looking more and more certain we’ll be arriving on Saturday early evening in time to catch customs open. That will mean we can all go ashore. I wonder how that will feel.

Thu May 29 12:11GMT (9:12am ship time)

37°19.2’N 35°47.2’W
SOG (Speed over Ground): 6.3 knots (sailing)
Heading: 060
Distance from Bermuda: 1,451nm
Distance to Horta: 348nm
ETA (Horta): Saturday (evening) May 31

By the time I went out last night the stars were gone. A front was moving in and the shift became one of watching the squalls approach on the radar, hoping each one would pass us by or be avoidable. Most missed by a couple of miles. 20 minutes before the end of my shift a squall formed on an intercept trajectory. I hate wishing bad on others but I was watching this one hoping my shift would end before it hit. I was the lucky one.

The big question right now, at least for me, is when will we arrive. We continue to progress at a rate that will get us in Saturday evening. While on the one hand we’re all settled in to life on the boat, the anticipation of being able to decompress builds each day. Even if we arrive after customs close, we’ll tie up to the dock and make the boat secure. For obvious reasons, we limit ourselves to a shared bottle of wine each day with our evening meal. We’ve agreed, with little debate, to relax this rule once we’re tied down.

Thu May 29 03:57GMT (12:48am ship time)

36°53.6’N 36°43.1’W
SOG (Speed over Ground): 6.1 knots (sailing)
Heading: 060
Distance from Bermuda: 1,405nm
Distance to Horta: 397nm
ETA (Horta): Saturday (evening) May 31

In my previous logs it looks like I’ve been a bit confused about days of week in my ETAs. May 31 is not a Sunday so I’ve corrected this to Saturday. As of now our ETA is in the evening but this could easily end up being Sunday. Yesterday involved a few changes of sail configurations as the winds were variable. Our track for the day looks a little drunk as we coped with the changes in wind angle. We ended the day on a starboard tack for the first time this entire leg of the journey.

Apart from that very little of interest to report for yesterday. No wildlife sightings. No ships. No planks even. One orange float was spotted but we weren’t motivated to go and look. Still no fish on the hook. I finally finished my book.

Before this trip one of the unanswered questions I hoped to address was whether or not I would enjoy trips of this duration or greater. It was interesting to note that 20% of the boats that came up from Antigua had some sort of unplanned crew change upon arrival in Bermuda. Admittedly they were tested with some extreme weather but this affected people differently. I have come to the conclusion that ones experience of passages is dependent on two things: your inner self and your companions. I have already touched on my inner experiences. The acceptance of a new range of experience leads to highs and lows coming from different and surprising places. This places a lot of emphasis on crew compatibility. I can see how easily rifts and annoyances could build if tolerance was not universal. I am fortunate to be accompanied by the crew we have aboard Windancer. We have three very different backgrounds and perhaps would never have met under any other circumstances. This seems immaterial to the shared relationship we have aboard. We’re able to mix well as well as find time to be ourselves when we need to. We work well together when we need to. We’ve had a few good laughs.

Last night we completed a full cycle of the shift rota. Every had their preferences and as we may only have three nights left we decided to randomize tonights rota. As a result of certain constraints we had to repeat a previous shift so we used a pack of cards, assigned suits to the shifts and Jim (as cook) drew. So we’re back on shift 1. Tomorrow night will be shift 3 as it’s the exact opposite. So here I am at 1:22am (ship time) on standby and due upstairs at 2am. It’s a clear sky night so I’m looking forward to it.

Wed May 28 14:18GMT (11:18am ship time)

36°26.9’N 38°15.3’W
SOG (Speed over Ground): 6.4 knots (sailing)
Heading: 095
Distance from Bermuda: 1,130nm
Distance to Horta: 476nm
ETA (Horta): Sunday May 31

Hmmm. Each day really is beginning to seem much the same as the one before. Highlights of yesterday were seeing 3 pods of dolphins and two whale sighting. I saw neither of the latter as each comprised seeing the tail as the animal took a dive and each time I was looking the wrong way. We passed the one week and two thirds point around the same time. This was celebrated with beer (it was a Bud Light so the term beer is a bit loose) and nachos up on the bridge. The latter was a nice surprise delivered by capt John.

We watched another movie last night, this time it was Across the Universe. Neither Jim and Bob had seen it before and both made notes to acquire for their collections at home. First stint of night shift was overcast and very dark. I could just see the horizon ? barely. For a while the boat lights were all turned off and all came up to watch the phosphorescence. This was not what I expected as I’ve heard about this before and I expected some sort of milky glow. What we got was something more akin to fireflies in the water. The water literally sparkled ? lots of tiny flashes around the boat. Jim said it was a 100 times better during his previous nights shift. He also got to see both whales today. For about 15 seconds I could swear some large fish or mammal was swimming alongside us. This was due to seeing a ghostly specter in the water ? a fish shaped shadow in the sparkles moving along with us. This could also be explained by a combination of the dark, erratic sleep and (according to Jim again) drugs. If it is the latter then something must have been spiked.

My second shift last night was similar to the second one the previous night. It was slightly better in that the winds picked up enough for me to try turning off the motor which worked. This woke up John who came up to find up what was up. We then set the genaker. We have been sailing thus since.

Jim’s last feature in today’s blog is as my sous-chef for last nights dinner where I made salad and pasta. I know this is not complicated but I don’t cook normally and this was my first preparation on this voyage. Up till now I have covered the washing up duties.