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Anthem « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

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Pig Roast

We went diving again in the morning with Sherry and David from Soggy Paws. This time we went west of the pass. The dive wasn’t as good as the previous day but fun in the clear water all the same.

In the afternoon I did a little fishing off the back of the boat. I caught a unicorn fish with bits of bacon then using the flesh of the fish managed to catch another. Getting bored towards the end I stuck a big hook on the end of my hand line and put the rest of my first catch on it. Within a few minutes I had hooked a shark – I saw it take the bait in the crystal clear water. It didn’t take long to snap the 80lb line. Not sure what I would have done with it if I’d managed to get it in so I guess that was for the best.

In the evening we went ashore for dinner again. This time it was a pig roast. A pig had been slaughtered in the morning which some cruisers heard and some watched. We all brought rum and juice ashore to make punch. At times in the evening Valantine played the ukulele and sang accompanied by her late mother’s boyfriend (hanger on) playing the guitar. The evening was their anniversary celebration so it was sort of ours too. The food was good. With us ashore were the Jacksters, Anthem, Soggy Paws, Nakia and a couple of French boats.

Lying here this morning I here the wind generator spinning more than it has for some time. We are not due to leave until tomorrow. We have been invited to church this morning where Valentine is the minister which could be interesting. We still have to scrape the weed off the hull so although the wind tempts us to go we may stick to our plan to leave for Tahiti tomorrow.

Slowly slowin’ down

We had a reasonably easy day of it yesterday. At 10am four dinghies (Soggy Paws, Jackster, Sea Mist and us) headed out the pass and off to the east to a dive spot. The dive was a wall dive with drop offs going down hundreds of feet followed by sandy pockets and overhangs – all giving plenty of places to investigate and look for sea life.

Back on the boat we had our lunch before doing a spot of reading. I went ashore to talk about having an evening meal there. The Jacksters were keen and relayed the fact that Jack on Anthem and the Imagines were on their way and had expressed a desire to book a slot to eat out too. Valentino, the local who runs the little restaurant here was initially reluctant to cater for an additional eight but after consultation with her husband relented.

We then snorkeled the nearby reef. We saw a number of large parrot fish as well as the largest trumpet fish we have ever seen. We examined the nearby fish trap which, true to it’s function, had trapped a large number of fish including an immense parrot fish.

I did do a little work which was half pleasure. I wanted to reverse our Code Zero halyard as it was damaged when the Code Zero last blew. Having reversed it I wanted to inspect the pulleys at the top of the mast in case they’d been damaged too. John manned the winches and hoisted me up. From the top of the mast – higher than any land around – I could see over the trees and could see the atoll curving around in each direction. The pulleys were ok but I stayed a short while to enjoy the view.

Then came some hammock time for me. I started to read but decided just to rest and watch the sea rippling in the sunlight.

The net we’ve been running in the morning has gathered a lot of listeners. We recently agreed to extend it for a few more months as most of the boats push further west. As four of the current net controllers were in this tiny anchorage we all got together aboard Dignity to kick the net up a gear agreeing a script, formal rota, contact into and guidelines for adapting the net as we all head west. While we were all together the sun set quite gloriously.

At 7pm we went ashore for dinner. We were served fish and lobster dishes which were quite delicious but a little expensive – understandable given the remoteness of this place. As ever, the company made it all the better.

It looks like we won’t be able to have dinner here on our anniversary as it turns out it’s their anniversary too and it’s also Sunday which they prefer not to work. We’re thinking of possibly having dinner again tonight which although being a day earlier here would be our anniversary in England where we were married.

We woke this morning to the sound of the wind gen turning which it hasn’t done too often for the last several days. We’re thinking of leaving here on Monday but we may go tomorrow if the wind picks up. We’ll see.

Today we’ll probably dive again and maybe go for a walk. The bottom of the boat needs a scrape as it’s growing whiskers in places which will affect our passage.

Snorkeling, snorkeling, snorkeling

During the potluck dinner (our first night here) I had learned that the guy who owns the resort hosting us was making dinner the following night. I knew from talking to a few others that there was interest for this so before the evening was over I talked potential numbers with Manihi the guy that owns/built/runs the place. He had four booked and could do a maximum of sixteen.

First thing after the net I dinghied round to a few of our friends in the anchorage and, including the Jacksters and Anthem who were on their way here, soon had the numbers.

Next John and I went snorkeling in the pass. This was during the outgoing tide and we tried our best to keep to areas where the flow through the channel was minimized. However there were times when we would be caught in a strong current and zip off. We always had one of us hanging onto the dinghy painter all the way through which was our lifeline in case of trouble. The snorkel was fantastic as we saw a great number of sharks including, at one point, about 15-20 all at once. In hindsight we should have had a radio aboard and have a buddy boat with us in case our outboard failed.

Before lunch I spent some time on Imagine helping them out with a software install falling back on skills developed in my past life.

Not long after lunch we were back out snorkeling. As the tide turned and the current started flowing back in practically everyone was out there dinghying out to the cut and drifting back in. For our friends who had arrived the previous day this was their first experience and they were amazed.

After a few drifts we were back on the boat waiting for Jackster and Anthem who were about to arrive. I’d convinced them they had to get in the water on arrival and get one thrill before the light fell. We helped dinghy them out into the cut for a drift in the now quite strong current. They were thrilled.

We now only had about an hour before our scheduled start of evening festivities. We all arrived at Manihi’s red roofed establishment around 5:30 for a meal scheduled to start at 7pm. Manihi had been out fishing to catch the meal earlier that day (what a life) and his wife had prepared it. When it all arrived, nearer to 8pm, we were amazed by the quality of the presentation and even more amazed by the taste of the food. All sixteen of us sat around a grand table set amongst a tiki style great hall. A fantastic time was had by all.

Hatiheu

The boat needed a bit of a clean up so we spent the first part of the morning washing the decks and cleaning the interior. Once this was completed we set off for our walk to Hatiheu in the next bay.

The beach is accessible by dinghy through one small channel as the rest of the area is all shallow coral. We landed on the beach and secured the dinghy to a tree before walking along the beach looking for the path that would take us over the hill. There is a small village here if you can call it that – just a few small buildings and a church. We found the path up and began the climb. According to my charts the climb is about 250 feet but in the heat of mid morning with the sun on us it felt much higher.

As we climbed the view of Baie d’Anaho and it’s surrounds became progressively more impressive and stunning. Reaching the saddle where the trail peaked was a relief as it was now downhill to Hatiheu and, even better, it was shaded.

The view of the surrounding geography was even more stunning from Hatiheu. Volcanic rock formations towered over green hills and a sleepy little village. Typically there were a couple of small shops and an impressively built church.

After exploring the village we started climbing again up the track out of town towards where there were some ancient Polynesian ruins. We expected just a few rocks but found the base of a what must have been a town for several hundred if not thousands of people. It was a haunting reminder of the culture on these islands that was decimated by the arrival of Europeans, their diseases and their ideas. Contact was inevitable and cultures are inevitably impacted but it is still sad to see the result. While wondering the ruins we met Frank and Margo from Silver Lining and ended up chatting for a while.

Back in town we looked around for somewhere to eat. The only place open was a large dining area with meals for around $25-$40. We passed on this deciding to have a curry back aboard the boat.

We struggled back up to the saddle again now in the midday heat. On the way back down we came upon a French lady who had lost contact with her party. She looked exhausted so we offered her some of her water. It turned out she had no water as it was the rest of her party who were carrying it. We ended up giving her our bottle as we were on our way down and there was abundant free fresh water from taps by the beach. She was very grateful for this. Once we’d left her behind we realized we’d not seen anyone else on the trail so if she was behind her party it was a long way behind. Still, with a bottle to carry water she would make it.

Just before reaching the beach I managed to stub my little toe tearing the nail off and causing a bit of a mess on my flip flop. There was a shower on the beach of which we availed ourselves rinsing off all the grime (and dried blood in my case) and taking our fill drinking straight from the flow.

We’d bought some empty bottles and cans to fill. Despite now having a working water maker we still can’t pass the opportunity to carry more – particularly water so fresh and clean.

Back on the boat we had dinner. The wind had picked up earlier in the day and John found the snorkeling to be a little murky. We rested the afternoon before entertaining the Jacksters, Inspiration Ladys, the Bristol Roses and Jack from Anthem celebrating Dave from Jackster’s birthday. Another good time was had by all.

This morning we’re a little hung over so today is set to be a day of rest.