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Return to the Blue Lagoon

As sun rose on the morning of Helen’s birthday we were treated to a beautiful ‘red sky at morning’. According to the rhyme, it was time for us to take warning. However, according to the weather forecast we should be able to put some sailing in before any adverse weather should hit us.

By 8am we were off. We had the wind right behind us so we popped out just the head sail while we made our way out of the anchorage and through the area patched with small reefs and bommies. Once we were in deeper water we furled the headsail, turned the boat into wind and raised the main. Turning back down wind we set the boat wing on wing and ran down wind.

There was little swell so the ride was very comfortable and we had no fear of accidentally jibing the main which is always a worry when running wing on wing. We could tie a preventer but that takes extra time and we weren’t planning on running in this configuration for too long.

As ever we had a couple of lines out. Before long the reel was zinging with a fish on. It had a bit of fight but I knew it wasn’t huge. It turned out to be a moderate sized wahoo. I landed it without using a gaff and got a line around the tail to secure it to the boat. The fish had chomped off the entire skirt of my lure before getting the hook caught through the top of it’s right eye socket and out the top of it’s head. When I removed the hook the poor things eye came out with it. The fish really fussed at that moment and as it thrashed it managed to gouge a deep cut along the back of my finger which began to bleed freely. I cut the fishes gills and dumped it’s head back into the water to bleed out while I looked after my hand.

I offered the fish to Helen as a birthday gift but this didn’t come over too well. Near the Blue Lagoon there is a farm where fresh produce can be bought. I suggested we may be able to trade the fish for veg. This idea was better received.

The winds turned out to be quite light for most of the journey. After the fish was cleaned we turned the boat and put her on a broad reach as we sailed down to our destination. With the land shielding us from the wind the direction and strength of the wind was quite variable but we managed to sail all the way to the end before turning on the engine for the first time and motoring in. We picked a spot to anchor with plenty of room to swing as we’re anticipating more change.

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On arrival we broke out some fresh bread rolls Helen had made on the way down, some cold meats and cheese for lunch. As it was Helen’s birthday we broke out a bottle of red to go with it. After lunch and one glass each we stuff the fish into a plastic bag and dinghied to the farm. We first stopped off at a village to ask the way and then a school for further instructions. We eventually found the farm up a creek which could only really be accessed at high tide. There we met Tocky (sic) who was very pleased with the idea of trading our fish for vegetables. Tocky took us down to his farm and picked fresh tomatoes, cabbage, spring onions, sweet corn, radishes, peppers, cucumbers and bananas for us. Unfortunately we forgot the camera so no pictures of the farm.

We ended up with two bags full of fresh vegetables. Helen was very happy with her trade in for a birthday present. Tocky was pleased as he had planned to fish in the afternoon to feed his family and now he could spend his time on the farm. In talking to Tocky we learned that he doesn’t drink cava like most native Fijians. Perhaps this is why he is so industrious.

Back on the boat we polished off the lunchtime bottle before retiring for a lazy afternoon.

In the evening we went ashore for a very delicious meal in the great setting they have here. On the way in we popped by and said hello to the Jaranas who are here in the anchorage. We had spring rolls and samosas for starters and each had a filet steak with garlic mash and fresh veg for our main. We retired to the boat for bubbly and desert. Helen’s final present involved plenty of moisturizer and finger strengthening exercises for me.irthdayt

Big thanks to all who sent Helen birthday greetings via email, comment and Facebook.

A walk and a swim

Life goes on and what can one do? We scratched our heads and came up with a walk on the beach followed by a snorkel. Original eh?

We took the dinghy to a part of the beach where there was less swell and where, presumably, the villages fishing boats had been dragged up. Leaving the dinghy there we headed south. Soon we found a small path that paralleled the beach and followed that for a while. Here we noticed more birdsong than we’ve heard in some time.

We passed through a small resort which appeared recently closed down. We later found a sign which indicated it was the Hideout Beach Resort.

At the end of the beach we came to some rocks which were pretty interesting. They were green in hue and had lots of thin fissures into which minerals had intruded and crystallized. Large areas of the rock were entirely flat, perhaps due to erosion.

This was as far as we went. We returned along the 4×4 track that runs the length of the island. We tried to find a way across to the east side of the island but the one track we followed ended up at what looked like an abandoned attempt to drill for underground water.

Back at the dinghy we launch and tied off on a mooring ball for a snorkel. Ok but not nearly one of the best ones we’ve done.

Today is Helen’s birthday and we are still planning to head south, back to the Blue Lagoon so we can eat out tonight and seek protection from some weird weather coming our way. Heading south we’ll have the sun behind us giving us a greater range of times of day during which we can sail and see the reefs around us.

Yasawa-i-Rara

In the morning I spent some more time on our errant bilge pump. It was even going off when I had it cleaned, reconnected and sitting in dry air. Having exhausted all the unlikely options I switched out the pump with another spare. Immediately, the new one behaved better. Before reinstalling the new pump I removed and cleaned out the old one way valve. I left testing the new setup until we had sailed just in case we had a return of the shaft seal leak which would give us a decent test.

Leaving at around 11am to get the best light for spotting reefs we had a great sail to Yasawa-i-Rara at the north end of Yasawa Island. We had around 15 knots of wind all the way sailing close hauled for most of the trip. We had to tack a few times to make it into the village. Along the way we managed to get one fish on the line but it escaped before we could even begin to bring it in. I will sharpen the hook.

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Our anchorage was in 15-20 feet of sand giving us a wonderful turquoise bay all to ourselves. We went ashore and gave sevusevu to the headman. While there we mentioned we had no fresh fruit left. He dashed off and brought us back a bucket of papaya which we agreed to give him F$4 for.

Back on the boat I turned my attention back to the new bilge pump. A couple of buckets of sea water in the bilge convinced me the new pump is working fine. The bilge hasn’t refilled and the pump hasn’t gone off overnight so we should be good again. I’ll now have to figure out a warranty return on the old pump.

Today the winds have picked up making us wonder what we may do today. We’ve more or less settled on the idea of sailing back down to the Blue Lagoon tomorrow as it’s Helen’s birthday then and we can go out for a meal. Looking further ahead the weather looks a little poor so we need to find somewhere with good all round shelter. The Blue Lagoon should do.

Last day in Sawa-i-Lau, for now

The wind never really materialized but then nor did any of the forecast rain and thunderstorms. The lack of wind made our minds up for us. We would wait for their expected return before moving on.

In the morning we dinghied ashore with John’s kayak in tow. We met Alison and a few others at the shore. John was not around so we gave her a few DVDs we’d burned for John. Feeling a little restless we went for a walk along the road that joins the various villages on the island. With the lack of wind, the sun beating down on us and the air somewhat humid from the front going over the novelty soon ran out so we turned and returned the way we came.

Back on the beach we collected our kayak and returned to the boat. We then decided to cool off by going for a snorkel on the reef. We stayed out a while exploring the reef. We found some pipe fish, relatives of sea horses, which we’d never seen before. I didn’t have my camera with me so can’t exactly identify them. Next time.

In the afternoon I took a look at a few problems that have been niggling us. The port bilge pump has been going off from time to time and not stopping. This is the new one I recently put in with the parallel backup bilge switch. This happened a few days ago and I assumed it was the shaft seal gone again. Then, we lifted our bunk, removed all the stuff below to access the seal only to find out it wasn’t leaking.

Each time the pump goes off, automatically or manually, the bilge as refilled more than it used to. It make be the one way valve letting water back in so I drained the bilge using the hand pump. The bilge didn’t refill so that supports my guess with the valve. I left the pump on and even with the bilge more or less empty, it went off again.

Sometimes when this happens and I disconnect the parallel bilge switch the pump stops so I decided to completely remove it. It’s an electronic switch permanently powered with a third line delivering power when it triggers. Perhaps it was causing some sort of interference even with the trigger line disconnected. I cut the wires to it and rewired the primary pump (with built in switch) an reconnected it in isolation. It still went off a few hours later with no additional water in the bilge.

Along side all this I’ve recently noticed a big difference between the two different voltage measures I have on the house battery bank. Often up to half a volt. All the voltage drop turned out to be from the plus/minus breakers. I turned the whole thing off, cycled the breakers a few times, then turned it all back on again. The voltage drop had improved significantly. This is not the first time I’ve had to do this. Perhaps I need better breakers.

Clutching at straws I wondered if the voltage drop had anything to do with the electronic water sensor on the bilge pump going off prematurely. We went to sleep with it all connected. In the night it went off again. Arghh. I disconnected the pump for the night. This morning there is no extra water in the bilge so I know there is no leak. Next step is to examine the pump for debris. While I’m doing this I can access the one way valve and clean it out.

This morning the winds have returned so we will be moving on later this morning. We are heading to the far north of the Yasawas to a village called Yasawa-i-Rara. We’ll stay there a few days before beginning our return trip back down the Yasawa island chain.

Arm Exercise

Having failed the cave climb I have now begun my arm and finger strengthening exercises. As a benchmark I tried to pull myself up using the flat roof over the entrance to our cabin. At best I can lay my fingers flat I have to use an overhand pull to get up. I couldn’t do it. If I can get myself to being able to do a few of these pull ups in three weeks time I may have a shot at that climb. The hand rail up to the helm turned out to be an ideal place to start so I performed some repetitions on that.

Later in the day Helen and I took the kayak out and explored the channel on the northeast side of Sawa-i-Lau. We had to paddle against the current to reach the far side so we got some good exercise. We walked back through the channel exploring the beach and rocks. The rocks here are very interesting and look a lot like those we saw in Niue and the Lau group.

In the evening, as we were watching TV, our guide, John, paddled out to us in his sinking kayak. He asked if he could borrow ours to go fishing. We were happy to do this even though it means we have to go ashore today to pick it up and drop his off. He can’t come back to us today as it’s Sunday and he’s not allowed to work. Hopefully he caught a decent amount of fish as he had no luck the previous evening.

Today we had thought to leave here and head north. However, right now there is no wind and the forecast suggests winds on the nose. The forecast for tomorrow looks better so we’ll stay here one more day.

One final note. Our pictures of the village, our climbs and cave visit are now all updated and available on our previous blogs.