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When the Wind Blows

We were expecting wind and we sure got it. Our plan was (and remained) to be tucked in this small gap between the islands anchored in shallow water over sand. The area we were in was quite tight so we figured we’d be protected from the wind when it came. For most of the morning we were indeed well protected from the wind. Another boat showed up early on and anchored in sight of us and were being swung this way and that while we just hung on the hook. By early afternoon, however, the wind shifted and came pounding in waves into our small hide-hole changing our feelings about where we were completely. Where we had once felt secure and protected we now felt boxed in with nowhere to go should our anchor slip. We spent much of the afternoon with the engines on and ready to go should we slip and start closing the scant few feet to the nearby rocks.

With all the nearby terrain it was hard to figure out what the wind was doing as it was evident what was happening at the top of the mast where our instruments are was often at odds to what was happening down at water level where the winds seemed to be compressed between the islands. Gust after gust pounded the boat and our nerves. Each time the wind would settle and we would wonder if that was the last blast but, except for the last blast, it wasn’t to be. As night fell things did calm down a little so we shortened the chain in case we swung completely sideways in our narrow channel and came to close to the rocks to our side.

With all the wind throughout the day came rain so we stayed in all day reading and playing cards. I solved another couple of Euler problems. At least I think I have but I can’t check the answers until we’re back connected in a few days time.

Today is my Birthday. No real plans. We may hang around here if the weather’s nice. If not, we’ll probably move on around midday. Favourite foods are on today’s plans. A big fry up breakfast / brunch is on the cards and curry this evening.

Bay of Islands

The weather continued to be grim throughout the morning so we waited until 10 before raising the anchor. It was still drizzling as we left Daliconi but despite the grey clouds, we could now see the patches of reef that we needed to avoid. We motored for about an hour before reaching the area known as the Bay of Islands. The area is very much smaller than it’s namesake down in New Zealand but has an incredible charm. The water is flat amongst these tiny but tall islands and the passages between some islands is only about 3-4 boat widths making it an almost surreal experience. As we were anticipating strong winds on Monday we found a place to anchor where we felt there was sufficient room to swing on a long chain.

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The weather calmed down in the afternoon but remained delightfully cool – relatively speaking. By the late afternoon the waters had completely settled and cleared. We could see the coral patches clearly beneath us and huge trigger fish flapping through the water.

Early this morning the strong southerlies have picked up, as expected, so our plan for today is to sit tight and maintain watch.

The word spreads – breaking even

In the morning I took a look at the phone charger I’d been left the previous day. It had a couple of screws in it with triangular shaped holes which I’d never seen before. I needed to make a tool to open it as I had nothing that would fit. Once opened I could see there was no hope of repair. A section of the circuit board was burnt out and the top of a small chip had blown off.

Around 10:30 I went ashore to drop off the charger and see if the DVDs we’d made and given were working. There I met Aaron again. He didn’t have any info on the DVDs and he took the charger to return to it’s owner. I’d left it open so the internal damage could be seen. He also mentioned that word was getting out and there were another two homes with problems they’d like me to look at. I said it would be best for me to come back at 6pm when the power was on. I also confirmed that 4pm was when they would visit the boat.

Before I left he asked if I could give three of the locals a tow out to the nearby reef to go spearfishing. I agreed to not only tow them but to go with them. We all rendezvoused at Dignity where I picked up my gear. Two of them boarded the dinghy and one stayed on their boat to help steer if necessary. The reef was not too far away and soon we were anchored. The two guys on the dinghy donned masks and snorkels while the third remained aboard the boat to hand line. We snorkeled the area for some time but the pickings were small and few. I bagged a smallish grouper.

After a while the two suggested I take them over to a nearby island which I agreed to. We tried there for some time. This time I picked off a few smaller fish plus one parrot fish which I think ended up being the biggest catch of the day. We returned to their boat off the first reef and I towed it ashore. They expected me to keep a few of the fish caught but I insisted they have them all as I’m pretty sure they need them far more than we do.

When I returned to Dignity I was shocked to see it was already 3 O’Clock. Time had flown.

Shortly after 4 I dinghied ashore to pick up our visitors. Aaron and his wife Biu, Isireli (who gave us tea on our first day) and his wife Eleanor and Semiti (after a bit of Fiji time) all boarded the dinghy and we made our way slowly out to Dignity. Aboard they were delighted to be shown around and see the boat. After the tour we sat outside and gave them cakes and drinks. They were not allowed beer (as dictated by their minister) but were delighted to learn we had wine as this was allowed in moderation. We shared our salon and conversation for an hour or so before it came time to head back ashore.

I took my box of electrical things and some screwdrivers in case they were needed and Aaron took me to the first house. They had a non-functioning TV. I opened it up. It was fairly clean inside. Very few cobwebs and certainly no roaches. I tried my usual things but that didn’t work. There was no sign of life at all so I traced the mains voltage in and soon found a blown fuse. I didn’t have one the right size so I temporarily soldered on a larger fuse holder that I had with me. I explained that when a fuse blows it’s often due to something else being wrong but sometimes it’s just age or a temporary short-circuit. With the things that get inside TVs here the latter proposition was not so presumptuous I thought. Saying that things may go bang I asked if they were ok with me plugging it back in. They were fine. We plugged in. The lights went out. All but one. Looks like something else in the house had a weaker breaking point than the 10A fuse I put in. I felt really bad about this. I found the main breaker but it had not gone. There was nothing obvious for me to change. They were really good about this and were thankful I’d made the attempt. There is an electrician who can help out on Monday so I reluctantly had to leave them worse off than when I visited.

After clearing up and putting everything back together we visited the next home where they had a working TV but the DVD player was not working. They seemed to know how to connect them all up but the test DVD I put in showed up an error. They said this is what happened with any DVD. Knowing that there was little chance of screwing their home up by opening the DVD I proceeded to do so. This time with a full audience. The whole family watched. Aaron and Biu (who’d now showed up) watched as did Samu and his wife who’d also shown up. In the audience were the two small kids of the household. You could see everyone was really hoping for a fix and I felt under a lot of pressure.

The player had obviously been opened before as the screws were all missing. At least one symptom of the problem was immediately obvious. The disk was not spinning. There was no friction so it was not something stuck. I removed the DVD tray and checked the underside. There was no voltage to the motor when it should have been running so I checked the ribbon cable that connected the tray to the main circuit board. I removed one end of the cable where some wax had been placed to hold the cables in place. The cable appeared intact. I cleaned the wax away from the connector as this could have seeped in and created a bad connection – particularly with all the heat and humidity – as it was at the end of the cable where the wires connecting to the motor were. I reconnected it and powered up. The disk span. The DVD was ‘Happy Feet’ and soon their TV was alive with dancing penguins. After my own personal misery for screwing up the first house I felt I’d broken even by seeing the faces beaming around me, in particular the two small children who were delighted with the movie. I put everything together and retested. It still worked. Phew. We watched a bit of the movie together just to make sure things were ok. I had to explain what the movie advice “Don’t eat yellow snow” meant. For people who find 15C evening’s cold, concepts such as eating yellow snow are far beyond their immediate understanding. After a brief explanation they thought it hilarious.

That was it for my amateur repairs for the evening. I don’t think I could take any more stress. I bid everyone farewell. They knew it is our intention to leave today but to return in just over a week to say goodbye.

And that is our intention. At least it was. I know a front is approaching bringing some strong weather and I want to be tucked into a small bay for when the southerlies come in this evening and strengthen tomorrow. However we seem to be in the leading edge of the system already and it’s peeing down again and looking grim outside. As soon as we get a break in decent light we’ll try and move.

Repairman

We had a fairly relaxed morning aboard the boat. I needed to sort out a credit card issue which primarily involved waiting for the cell phone network to come up so I could make calls and use (‘use’ is hardly the appropriate word) the internet. Once that was all sorted I left Helen aboard to go ashore, primarily to check out their printer once more and to see if they used refurbished toner cartridges rather than the manufacturers own. The village has to pay Fiji$210 (about $120) for each one which is a fortune for them. In the US the manufacturers toners cost $75 and the refurbs cost about $25. If there’s room amongst all our bilge pumps, etc. we’ll load a few onto our friends coming in August. At the school I learned they were using the refurbs which I would have been reluctant to send had they stuck to HP ones. I also met the headmistress and chatted with her for a while and shared a few of the educational ideas I’d learned worked well from my time involved with schools and our own children in the Uk.

On the way back I stopped off at Eroni’s to say hello and ended up sitting through a rainstorm chatting with him, his wife Biu and another friend. I learned that the sound on the second TV I looked at the previous night came on just after I left and stayed on. Word was getting around and his older brother, whose TV hadn’t been working since last October, wanted me to take a look at his. So after the rain subsided Aaron took me up to his brother, John, to look at his TV. During the day there was no power but I was able to ask him how he connected his DVD player. He had to fetch the player from his daughter. The cables in the back of the player were in all wrong and John wasn’t aware how to plug it into the TV. I showed him how to correctly wire it up and promised to be back at 6pm when the power came on.

While there another villager showed up with a DVD player wrapped in a blanket. She said it had stopped working and was brand new and asked for help. Brand new, I was learning, was anything under 2 years old. I was also learning that the only real ‘modern’ technology in the village were old TVs and cheap DVD players which they could use during the 2.5 hours the generator was on each evening. Anyway, I explained the the lady how to properly connect the wires to the DVD player then followed her up the hill to her father-in-law’s (Semiti) house to see how they connected it to their TV. Again, they had little awareness how to connect it up so I showed them how and left it promising to come back in the evening. Semiti was the cava grower of the village and suggested we could have some grog when we returned.

On the way back I dropped into Samu’s house and had a brief chat with him. A few of the villager’s had expressed interest in seeing the boat and we’d had a loose invitation that I wanted to cement. Some of the wive’s were off in the neighbouring village so we worked out they could visit at 4pm if they returned in time or the same time the following day.

By the time I reached the boat it was nearly 4pm anyway. The wive’s didn’t return until nearly 5pm so no visit. Helen and I ate our dinner then went ashore just before 6pm. On the beach we were met by an older fellow who greeted us. He had some wires in a bag and I asked him if he had a problem. It turned out to be his cell phone charger which he said didn’t work. He said his phone charged on other people’s charger but not that one. I took it promising to take a look inside the following day.

We came ashore by Eroni’s. I’d brought some spare WD40 ashore for Aaron to try on his hair trimmer which had jammed up. That didn’t work but I left him the oil. In Fiji, a gift to one individual is a gift to the village as everyone shares. Sort of.

We went up to John’s house to see if his TV was now working. It wasn’t so I put it on the floor and took it apart. It was also full of cobwebs and dust so I spent a while cleaning it out and making sure all the connections were firm, much as I had done, unsuccessfully, for Eroni’s TV the day before. Feeling under pressure and with 3 generations of family looking on I plugged in the TV and turned it on. We had a picture. The grandson was sent off to get a DVD from someone else and while we waited we sorted out the remote control and had the DVD player connected. When the DVD was inserted it played to the huge delight of the family, particularly the grandson who was grinning from ear to ear. While I cleaned out the case and put the TV back together, John’s wife gave Helen a couple of her traditionally hand made mats. It was a wonderful gift and something we’ll treasure far more than the same thing we could buy once if it had made it’s way into a gift shop.

The rounds were not yet finished. We trouped up the hill, by torch light as there are no street lights, to Semiti’s large home overlooking the village. From his son who lived in a small house on the same plot of land we learned that the TV was working. We went up to Semiti’s house to take a closer look. For some reason Aaron had been reluctant to approach Semiti’s house but when he learned we’d been invited for grog he became more enthusiastic. Even then he didn’t show himself at the door but asked me to say he was my ‘brother’. I duly spake as asked and Aaron and Biu were invited in too. There’s obviously nuances to the village life that are beyond us but anything we can do to help (if it is helping) we’ll do.

The TV and DVD were indeed working together. They had another DVD player which I’d looked at earlier in the day and I suggested we test that. That one also worked fine. Semiti’s teenage grandson, also called Semiti, showed up so I asked if he was keen to learn how to connect them up. He was so I showed him what connections to look out for on the back of the DVD players and the TV so that if they became disconnected in the future, someone would have a chance of knowing how to put them back together. I had done a similar exercise back at John’s.

With all the technical work complete we all went downstairs to partake in some grog. We remained there sharing a couple of bowls for about an hour and a half chatting about various things, often about our trip so far to Fiji and what both Helen and I used to do. The cava was prepared quite mild so we didn’t go tingly straight away but ended up quite mildly relaxed by the end of the session. It was nice to have their company for the evening, during which time I learned the Fijian version of my name is Sitibeni and Helen’s is Hilena.

When all was done we said our goodbyes, inviting Semiti to join the others visiting our boat today. Aaron and Biu took us back to the beach and we headed off into the dark finding the channel through the reef fairly easily. We’re definitely getting to know our way around the neighbourhood.

We’ve also learned that the village wants do have the farewell party when we leave the area in a week or so’s time. For now we’ll spend one more day/night in front of the village before going off to visit the anchorages here in the Bay of Islands and some of the islands on the far side of the main island. There are other villages on these other islands and if we had the time I imagine we could spend as much time with them as we have here but sadly we don’t. At some point we’ll need to head back to Savusavu for our charger and there are a few places we’d like to visit on the way.

A kind of a hike

While the rain poured down outside, I spent the first few hours of the day ordering boat parts using the internet over the local vodafone connection. We’ve been getting used to using the very slow GPRS rate and here it’s worse. It takes a long time to do anything.

Once this was all done we went ashore to meet up with Samu and hopefully be pointed in the direction of a walk. We mentioned we were keen on seeing a view so he first insisted on taking us up to the local peak. This involved a lot of climbing through vegetation and getting to a point where we were high but no view. He pointed out that when last year’s hurricane came through the view was all clear. The land repairs itself quickly so we headed off to a clearer peak. After a few slips and slides we were back down on the road and soon a truck passed by and gave us a ride part of the way. Then it was back to battling through long scratchy grass to a point where we overlooked the bay and the village. It was a good workout in the humid air that followed the morning rainstorm.

We walked back to the village and past the primary school. Back at Samu’s home his wife had cooked us lunch – a fish curry. As is their custom they let us eat our dinner without any sign of showing any desire to eat theirs. We discussed what the school needed and toner for their copier/printer is in short, difficult and expensive supply. We suggested we go and take a look at the printer and look up prices on the internet.

On the way back to the boat we stopped off at Eroni’s who had a non-working TV. I had offered to take a look at it so sitting in a beach side hut with the cool wind off the sea helping to counter the humidity I took the TV apart. It was full of cobwebs and at least one cockroach. The only (and very slim) hope I could offer was to clean the TV using the vacuum on the boat, check all the connections and once the shoreside generator came on at 6pm I could test for dry joints.

We took the TV back to the boat wrapped in an old sou’wester. There I opened it up again, chased out the last cockroach (into the sea) then vacuumed and cleaned it out. We sorted out a few spare DVDs that we have as this is one of the villagers’ few entertainments.

Around 5:30 we both went back ashore and spent time with Aaron while we waited for the power to come on. When it did we took the TV apart one final time and plugged it in. It showed some signs of life but my guess is that the high power circuit that drives the tube was defunct as I could hear no high pitched whistle.

Before departing a neighbour invited me over to look at his TV/DVD combination which had had no sound for 6 months. There was a cabling issue but fixing this did not restore the sound. He also had another DVD player which was dead. While looking at that the sound came on the TV – perhaps a loose connection. Declaring the second DVD player totally dead I went back to look at the TV. To get the back off and check for loose connections turned out to require a tool noone had ashore and we might have on the boat. There is hope for this one. If I can find the right tool I can go back this evening and see if there is a loose connection or dry joint that will restore the sound.

With the kind hospitality of the village and the challenge of a few problems it looks like we’re staying for a few days. The villagers have offered a farewell feast when we go with food and dancing. We’re looking forward to that. Sadly, the villagers have a funeral to go to too in a nearby village. A couple of weeks ago three of the locals (not from this village) took off in a small boat to a nearby island to collect a can of propane for the ice making plant. It was supposed to have been on a ship that had just traveled from Taveuni to that island but the people responsible for putting it on the ship had been late and missed the boat. The three guys took it upon themselves to go all the way to Taveuni to collect the propane. On the way back they were hit by bad weather. Only the boat was found. Sad.