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Waiwhapuku Bay, Moturoa Island

Shortly after writing the last blog Ben and I dinghied over to our float to raise the lobster trap. While the decomposing bag of meat at the bottom had attracted a few whelks, no lobsters had made there way into the trap. We knew the site wasn’t that good but it was worth a go. We brought the trap back to Dignity as we knew we were moving.

New Zealand has fairly thorough reporting of the local marine weather on the VHF. Here in the Bay of Islands there is a continuous loop on VHF 21 lasting about 5-10 minutes giving records of wind readings around the area plus a near / medium term forecast. Yesterday morning the forecast was predicting 25 knots from the south to south west gusting up to 35. That didn’t seem too nice so we headed for Putakokotoa Bay which didn’t have a great deal to offer bar good protection from the south. With a westerly wind we flew the job and gently sailed all the way there using the electric motors at the beginning and end. There we had our lunch.

I normally leave the VHF scanning a few channels, including the local coast guard channel. Here we heard someone asking the coast guard if 21 was the correct channel for the local area as it appeared the looped forecast was for somewhere else. It does appear to have been the wrong one because soon after the forecast changed to something more consistent to the previous days with winds forecast to be lighter and from the west/south west.

Rather than stay where we had nothing to do and (more importantly) nowhere decent to drop the lobster trap, we moved on again, this time to Waiwhapuku Bay on Moturoa Island. As well as a couple of day trip boats we found the Jacksters here and were soon waving at each other. It was another very pleasant anchorage and well protected with waters like a pond. There is a walk around the island which we intend to do. Helen wanted a rest however and I wanted to get on with changing the brushes on the watermaker feeder pump. This goes back to occasional issues we’ve been having all the way back to the Marquesas. Every now and then (more frequently recently) the feeder pump loses power. A quick tap on the back with a spanner causes the errant brushes to reseat and all is well. It gets us by but it’s no real solution.

So that was my afternoon’s project. And a pain in the arse it was. I think I’ve ranted about this before but I’ll rant again. The only piece of good news is that the motor has two easy inspection openings that permit access to and the replacement of the brushes and their springs. This good news is rendered worthless as one of the openings is inaccessible due to the way in which the motor is housed on it’s mount. So the motor has to be removed from it’s mount. To remove the motor from the mount, the mount has to be removed from the bulkhead. Once all this was done I needed to raise the whole assembly into the bathroom so I could do the delicate brush replacement work. I couldn’t raise the assembly as the raw water hose into the A/C coolant circuit looped past some of the wires going into the control box on the assembly. It seemed the easiest way to resolve this was to remove this hose which is never easy at the best of times. Swearing and cursing I tried to remove the pipe from the copper nipple. The nipple broke. That wasn’t right. Copper shouldn’t break like that. At least the pipe was off and I could raise the pump/control assembly and do the brush replacement work.

I was able to replace the brushes without too much difficulty. Then came the task of reattaching the pump to it’s assembly which involved replacing 4 bolts, 4 nylon washers, 4 stainless steel washer and locking nuts. Two of these were easy to get to. Two weren’t. I’d forgotten how hard this was to do when we last did this back in the Marquesas. Defeat was not an option and eventually I managed, with a lot of help from Ben, to get it all together.

Before putting the assembly back on the wall I turned my attention back to the broken nipple still stuck in the end of the A/C hose. With my pliers I found the stub of the nipple was quite brittle and broke inside the pipe. This allowed me to remove it quite easily but poses broader worries. We’ve known for some time there may be an issue in that the through hulls aren’t bonded. Why, I don’t know. I don’t really know enough about the pros and cons to have a strong opinion bar the fact it looks like we’re now looking at strong evidence as supporting the need for it. I’ve kept all the pieces so I can show them to a metallurgist (or someone closely resembling one) and get a better opinion.

Putting the assembly back on the wall and tidying up completed the job. The motor tested fine albeit with a slight whine which I put down to the brushes settling in.

On a complete aside, one thrill of the afternoon was having a tiny little penguin swim by. We knew there was some history of them in the area but hadn’t expected to see one. We took a few pictures which we’ll post when we’re back connected.

Dave and Jackie popped by after a walk around the island. We soon had them invited over for a bevvie and catch up later in the evening. They mentioned there was a good mussel bed around the corner and asked if we’d like a few as they were going. We agreed to just a few as we’ve had a varied history with them sometimes getting very sick. We went out with them but in our case to drop the lobster pot on the ocean side of the island.

Back on Dignity Ben and I fished for better bait for the lobster trap and succeeded in catching two fish which we left outside to rot. Turns out lobsters are garbage eaters and like nothing better than something that gone off.

After dinner Jacksters came over full of mussels. We’d eaten the few they dropped by after our own dinner. We’d enjoyed them but weren’t eager fans. We had a good evening together and caught up on a few things. We remarked on how incredible it all is that we first bumped into them in a bar in Grenada and here we are bumping into each other, yet again, this time in New Zealand.

Today we may just hand around another day. We’ll certainly check the lobster trap and put the fish in. We’ll also go for the walk around the island.

Motuarohia Island (Roberton Island)

Given that Ben wanted to perform some additional testing on his website and that I was keen to download a few more topographic maps we remained near Russell for the morning during which time I changed the oil on the genset. I don’t know if it’s my ears but it always seems a little happier and smoother after an oil change so I like to do this as closer to the 200 hour mark as possible. Despite the solid motoring we did to get into Opua by Thursday evening, our 13 weeks average genset time is still only 1.5 hours per day. This may not seem much but it seems to bring round the oil changes with seeming regularity.

With this all done and lunch behind us we set off to Motuarohia Island – also known as Roberton Island.

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On arrival we found several boats already here but it turned out they were all day trippers, either personal or commercial which meant by the evening we had the anchorage all to ourselves. The anchorage is stunning. Despite all the wonderful places we’ve anchored in the last two years and a bit this area really is amazing. We are surrounded by small islands and mainland with sweeping geography covered by incredibly diverse flora.

Once we felt the anchor had settled we dinghied ashore. As it was low tide we hauled the dinghy quite high tying it to a stake in the ground to ensure there was no chance of losing it. We first explored the rocky area on the isthmus separating us from the north side. Here there were interesting tidal pools and channels with kelp swaying backward and forward in the currents. We climbed around, up, over and through (ie, through a cave/passage and out the other side) the rocks. The rocks appeared crumbly but were instead very firm and easy to grip onto allowing us to make our way clinging to the sides of rock faces at times.

We then took the made trail to the lookout point over the bay. There we stayed a while as the view awesome. Just soaking it all in. On the way down we took a less maintained side trail to see where it went. It was an interesting scramble through the trees that ended in a dead end.

Later on Ben and I decided we’d set the lobster trap I’d bought in Opua (not sure if mentioned this before). We used some steak fat as bait (not sure if this is any good yet) and took it out in our dinghy to sink it out of the arc of our chain. We attached a float marked with our boat name so we could retrieve it the following morning. While setting the trap Helen drew our attention to a small pod of dolphins up close to the shoreline. We slowly angled towards them and they came towards us leaping out of the water. They passed almost within touching distance continuing to fart around in the water, having a lot of fun.

We are now internetless so it’s back to the side band radio for blogging and communications with land. It’s a nice feeling to be cut off for a bit.

Matauwhi Bay

As Ben still had some more work to do on his website and we’d heard the open internet connection was better around the corner we motored around the corner to get the better reception. We first anchored close in the bay but found the signal intermittent but when we moved further out we had access to two open signals.

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I had a lot of free topographic maps () I wanted to download so I was happy with an unlimited connection. All the internet connections we’ve paid fore recently had a bandwidth restriction which prevents this sort of thing. Hopefully the owners of these connections aren’t being charged by the MB.

In the afternoon all three of us went ashore tying our dinghy to the quay at the Russel Yacht Club. We walked the short distance to town and visited the museum which was somewhat interesting. We had some delicious ice creams followed by a short stroll through town. I chatted for a while to a local estate agent out of curiosity to learn a little about cost of buying/selling and ownership in NZ.

We took a long way back climbing a very steep hill. Our efforts were rewarded by some nice views of the area and the chance to see some amazing gardens and properties.

That’s about it for the day. Chances are we’ll move onwards today but don’t yet know where.

Footnote. Ben’s mini website is now up and running, under this website for now until he gets his own domain name. If you’re interested, you can see it here.

Russell

We’ve escaped Opua. It’s a hard place to leave as there’s always a reason to stay an extra day. But that thinking gets you stuck and sooner or later you have move on or miss out. Before leaving we did one final provisioning – enough to last a couple of weeks so we can be flexible as we make our way to the Whangarei area.

After lunch (pies) the weather looked grey and the were spots of rain. We almost thought “what’s the point of leaving today” before realizing we were close to failing to escape the Opua trap. We raised the anchor cleaning the mud off as we did so thankful we chose the deck/anchor wash option for Dignity. With light winds we motored the entire 4 miles to Russell. This was another good test of the new charger. The extra power was noticeable. It was cool to be able to see a digital confirmation of our net current flow and drive battery state.

We found a spot between all the buoys to anchor in the bay in front of the small vacation town of Russell.

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Leaving Ben aboard to continue his work Helen and I went ashore to explore the town. There was a well recommended museum which we didn’t enter as Helen had left her reading glasses behind. This worked out well for us as we were able to use the time to have a fun-filled hike around the area.

We first climbed Maiki Hill to the north of the town where there were excellent views of the town and the Bay of Islands in general. We then scrambled down the side of the hill to the road that led north to Tapeka Point. We didn’t make it all the way to the point turning off to the western beach close by. Having seen a coastal trail marked on a map at the museum we had a go at returning via the coast. Personally I thought it was a lot of fun but it turned out to be quite a challenging section. The path was really only a low tide option and it was approaching high tide. That required a lot of scrambling over and around rocks and occasional wading. But we made it having the entire route to ourselves. We found a made path back to town towards the end which had us climbing up and down the hills again adding to our exercise.

In town we bumped into the Larabecks (fiddler/music professor) and shared company over a beer by the shore. We soon had to return to the boat for dinner even though it still felt quite early. We’re still not used to the long hours of daylight as a result of our latitude and approaching summer.

A little scarey?

We left early this morning so I skipped my almost normal time to blog. So here’s the last two days activities.

Not a great deal happened in the morning. I managed to make my final call to the Lagoon tech and reviewed the good results of the previous day’s final testing. I then got a chance to play with a new gizmo I’d been sent that plugged into the hybrids motherboard and gave a digital readout of some of the charging parameters.

In the afternoon Helen and I popped into Paihia to withdraw some cash for our newly upholstered cockpit cushions (with new foam for the seats) and to visit the Thursday farmers’ market where we picked up some really fresh mandarins, strawberries, lemon cake and fudge.

Without any time to spare we got back to Opua, dropped off the cushions and went to the Opua Cruisers’ Club to be briefed on some of the better anchorages around here. This gave us much food for thought.

Today we drove over to the west coast to visit Waipoua Forest known for immense kauri trees. Although the drive there was about two hours we were treated to more of New Zealand’s beautiful scenery. This area is classified sub-tropical which provides micro-climates suitable for all sorts of flora from pines and huge ferns to pines and of course the kauri trees.

Our first stop was to visit Tane Mahuta, the largest kauri tree in New Zealand, a short walk from the main road. These trees have immensely wide towering trunks with equally impressively branches spreading out way above our heads.

On our second stop we walked all three trails allowing us to visit the 7th largest kauri (which we could touch), a group of kauris called the Four Sisters and Te Matua Ngahere, the 2nd largest kauri. All these walks, including the first one, were over a combination of well made tracks and raised broadwalks to protect the kauri roots. I tried out my new boots purchased in Whangarei and found them to be extremely comfortable.

Our last stop/hike was further south by the forest visitors center where we climbed the 1 hour each way lookout trail where, at the top, there was a building offering a great lookout – an aptly named trail. This was more of what is designated a tramp as the path was less well made with lots of roots, etc.

That was enough hiking so we made our way back. As we approached the inlet (a very large inlet) near Omapere we saw a sign to a lookout off to the left. We took the diversion and spent about half an hour to walk to the lookout over the bay. On the far side of the bay were some huge sand dunes very reminiscent of those we’ve seen in South Africa in the past. They were on the far side of the inlet and quite unreachable from where we were. This turned out to be a very pleasant diversion.

Feeling in need of a little stimulation we stopped off at a nearby cafe for coffee before heading back towards Opua but with a planned stop at the town of Kawakawa. There we visited it’s ‘World Famous’ toilets which were both artistic and usable – both aspects we all appreciated. Afterward we stopped for a curry where we ate very well for a very modest sum.

So that’s about it. So what, you may think, is a little scarey about all that. For that you need to read the article about the Vava’u Regatta in the December 2010 issue of Lattitude 38. Both Helen and I are mentioned and we all appear in photos in one form or another. It seems we can’t stay out of the press these days. This is another opportunity to plug the Vava’u Regatta to any cruisers heading out this way. It was a huge amount of fun so leave plenty of time for Tonga in your itinerary.