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Naiviivi

Mid morning we dropped the dinghy and did the round of the nearby boats to say our goodbyes. We then briefly went ashore to pick up fresh food.

Around 11am we were off. With good light and using our old tracks we picked our way out of the reef and headed north around the fringing reef. For a while we were motoring into adverse wind and current with a very short chop. Soon we were round the corner and had the sails up and sailing nicely.

We didn’t go far, ending up in Naiviivi Bay.

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We anchored in deep water in a small bay surrounded by mangroves. After making sure the boat wasn’t going anywhere we put the kayak into the water and rowed ashore with our bunch of kava, camera and bag of sweets for the village kids.

We were met ashore by two small boys playing with toy boats on the shoreline. They helped us put the kayak ashore and earned a toffee each for their labours. They became our firm friends.

They showed us the way to the village. On the way there we met a lady with four children who were removing bark from some sticks which they were preparing for some sort of building. When we reached the headman’s house we learned he was away in Taveuni and wouldn’t be back until 5pm. Our two friends, now with a few more, showed us around the village. We saw where they lived, their school and church.

By the time we returned to the kayak we had about 7 or 8 kids all eager to have one more round of toffees. Once in the kayak we explored the mangroves mainly for some exercise.

We were both feeling quite worn out so the rest of the afternoon we rested. As we approached 5pm Helen wasn’t feeling too well so I went back ashore alone to give sevusevu to the village headman. Here I had a more formal but splendid ceremony. We went into his house and suddenly the room was full of his smaller children and grandchildren. His older son was there too. We all sat down and I offered my kava. He made a speech in Fijiian and in places clapped. When he clapped, all the kids clapped with him. It certainly was a warm welcome.

We chatted for 45 mins or so. We were joined by an Australian whose been living in the village for the last month. He’s involved in a project to rid the island of iguana that were introduced 11 years ago and are aggravating crops and quickly spreading to nearby islands.

When I took my leave his older son walked me back to my kayak and we continued our chat. We were invited back for kava but Helen still wasn’t feeling to good. I must admit, after the nights of parties we’ve had we were both a little worn at the edges and we ended up with a very early night.

We needed it for around midnight the starboard bilge went off. Not because there was water in it. The float switch had failed setting the bilges off and the alarm. I tried to knock it into submission but that didn’t work. I replaced the pump with the spare but that had a different problem – a crack it seemed – so it couldn’t pump out the test water we put into the bilge. The secondary bilge pump took care of most of the water but not enough to stop the switch.

Running out of ideas I put the first pump in to drain the bilge then put the second back in to trigger the second pump should we have a leak somewhere. As I was going back to sleep I came up with an idea to piggy back the two pumps so the good switch is first in the circuit and powers both pumps so we can drain the bilge and have the alarm stop. That will take some work.

Our plan was to leave the anchorage this morning by the light of the full moon. The weather forecast is mixed for our trip east and we can’t yet leave because the sky is overcast. We need more light. So we’re going to have a later start than originally planned and who knows where we’ll end up. In the bay here we have almost no wind but hopefully that’s due to the shelter of the island. If this stays the case out at sea we may have to change our minds. We’ll see.

Last day anchored off Matei

Latest news first. It does appear that our replacement charger is on it’s way and we have agreement from Lagoon to do the sex change in New Zealand next February. The detail has still to be exchanged and agreed but for now we are free to move on. We will.

I did actually get onto doing some chores around the boat. I checked the house batteries – all fine. I inspected the standing rigging, tightening one of the locking nuts in the process. I cleaned the water strainer for the water maker as well as fixing a small leak where the nipple screwed into the cock. Bilge pumps tested fine.

In the evening we visited Scream for dinner, drinks and cards and got back tired and late.

Looking at the weather we have NE to N light winds for the next couple of days. Not perfect but it’s not bad to help get us east to the Lau group. With the details for our boat work sufficiently progressed we can leave today. First hop will be a short one to the east side of Taveuni which we’ll do in good light. That’ll position us well to leave early tomorrow for a longer passage east.

It’s exciting to leave and get going again. The sad side of all this is that this may be the last time we’ll see many of our friends here in this anchorage. But that’s cruising.

Socializing ….

Some folks left the anchorage (Tahina, Dreamtime), a couple more arrived (Passages, Scream). Mike from Callisto popped by to invite us to drinks Thursday night. Steve & Darusha popped by and invited us for dinner Friday night.

During the day we just amused ourselves aboard the usual way. I decided to condition the batteries and ran the generator for most of the morning. I had planned to do more routine checks of the boat but put it off to today.

Drinks aboard Callisto was fun and went on til late. Also there the Kilkeas and Passages’s.

It’s nice here but we need to get out. All this socializing is hard on the body. The bloodstream at least.

Lavena Coastal Walk

15 cruisers (including us) got together yesterday to take the bus down to Lavena and walk the coastal walk. We had mixed information about the bus departure time which ranged from 9am to 10am. The most specific advice was that it was due at 9:15 but we could have to wait until 10am. We were all ashore by 9:30 and caught the bus at 10:30. It’s called Fiji time by the locals.

The bus was the typical open window (ie, no window) kind which offered a cool breeze and fantastic views of the coast and the villages we passed through. After an hour or so we reached the village of Lavena where we paid to enter the Bouma National Heritage Park and for a couple of guides to take us on the trail.

The trail took about hour and a half to reach the waterfalls at the end. The pace was slow to allow chances to listen to the guide tell us about a few of the things we could see and to take photos. The final section of the path took us up to a shaded spot on a river where we stopped for a swim and to eat lunch. From this spot we could see one of two waterfalls a little way up the river. We swam up to the bowl beneath this waterfall where we were able to see a second waterfall pouring into the same bowl which was not previously visible. Of our group I was the only one to climb the slippery rocks behind our guide and slide down the slick chute created by the second waterfall.

After our swim we rested and had a bite to eat before following the trail back to the starting point. Our return was a quite a bit quicker as we had no need to stop so often. By now school was out and we were greeted by happy, smiling children. It’s wonderful to see the innocence of small kids not having had to be scared off by the boogeyman of strangers.

We headed back to Matei in two minivans and decided to eat at one of the local restaurants. The food turned out to be delicious. Helen and I ended up on Kilkea after the meal where we were plied with beverages that are still working their way out of my head.

On the maintenance front we progress slowly. Permissions have been sought and now fully granted to have the Lagoon techs perform the work in the Norsand yard. We’re close to knowing if/when/where the replacement charger will be sent and we should soon have the details of the sex-change worked out.

Having made the decision to slow down and spend the whole season here in Fiji there is no stress involved in staying put for a while in one place. We’re really enjoying the beauty and tranquility of Taveuni as well as this breezy anchorage. Sharing time with our friends here makes the experience priceless. So all is good.

Even better, we’ve received confirmation from our good friends, Anne and John, that they will be with us early August. Much to look forward to.

25th, East of the Line

Once the sun was well up I headed out to say hello to some of the new arrivals in the anchorage and make sure the folks who hadn’t received my earlier email knew they were invited. I didn’t have to go too far as we ended up with a few dinghies/kayak congregated around Gerimar so I managed to get the word out.

While there, six local officials/policemen came out in a fishing skiff to inspect the paperwork of the boats here. We came to the conclusion they were bored and wanted to see the boat show in the anchorage. Only one fellow did any paperwork / inspection and all were very friendly and keen to look around.

After this unexpected interlude Helen and I went out to snorkel one of the nearby coral patches. On the outside of the reef the water was fairly clear and the coral diverse and abundant. The fish were small but colourful and we managed to see a beautiful but dangerous (to the reef) crown of thorns starfish.

After our swim we went over to the lobster pot. The only thing in it was the extremely stinky fish frame which had now collapsed and got stuck in pieces in the netting. It was a disgustingly smelly job to clean it all up. It took me a while to get the awful smell off my fingers.

In the evening we had our public anniversary party. Along came the Borees, Callistos, Dreamtimes, Gerimars, Jaranas, Kilkeas, Tahinas and True Companions for a fun evening. Bert from Boree made us all smile with a bit of a speech presenting Helen and I with hats they’d made earlier in the day appropriate for the celebration.

Quite a few of us are interested in going down the coast to the Bouma National Park, some to see the falls we’ve already seen and some to do the coastal trail. So it looks like today a crowd of us will go down on the public bus returning by taxi. Should be fun.