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33nm to go

Another slow day. At times the wind dropped to 5 knots so we put in about 4 hours of motoring to keep moving. Overnight we saw a number of showers on the radar (much like the previous night). These we are keen to avoid. Apart from getting wet we experience changes in wind direction and speed near them. Only one appeared strong enough to be called a squall and with the Code Zero up in the dark this makes avoiding these systems all the more important. They appear as fuzzy edged patches on the radar and often in clumps. One has to not only anticipate the direction they’re moving (usually the same direction as the wind) but also the direction in which they’re forming as this adds a new motion. With the wind slightly off our stern we don’t have much room to maneuver in one direction so one needs to detect and react when they’re a few miles out.

For much of the day and night we looked as if we’d be lucky to make Palmerston before dusk. After a midnight pickup in the wind we now have an ETA of around 1pm.

As we still have some mahi mahi in the freezer we have not been fishing so no reports on that.

Back to my watch.

Slow Passage to Palmerston

And there I was worrying about arriving Tuesday/Wednesday night. Now we’re hoping just to arrive during the day on Wednesday. Our average speed over ground for the trip so far is 4.1 knots but right now we’re down to 3kts in 8kts of wind. Overnight we had some patches of rain to avoid but nothing that could be described as a squall.

Aitutaki, Southern Cooks

The weather on our last days passage to Aitutaki was not kind to us. For most of the day the wind dropped to around 9-10 knots from practically behind us. Having had the Code Zero up all the night before we left it up all day. We managed to make between 4 and 5 knots but this was not enough to make Aitutaki by dusk.

Night fell and we were still making our way slowly to Aitutaki. We made it until about 10 miles out when the wind fell further and went a little confused on us. We fired up the genny and began motoring. We furled the Code Zero but left it up just in case.

I noticed we weren’t quite getting the power output from the 72V chargers that we should. It didn’t really affect top speed but it did affect the spare output I normally like to use to top up the drive battery bank charge. We have two banks of three chargers and the drop was consistent with the loss of one of the six chargers from the equation. Another problem to contend with. On the problem side I did receive responses back from Spectra regarding the water maker problem and they have agreed to send a replacement part on warranty. I now have to find a shipping address in Tonga.

Knowing my charts were at least 200ft off I gave the reef to the north of Aitutaki 3/4 mile clearance. Even in the dark, we could take sightings of hilltops and some lights to verify the island was where it should be. We approached the anchorage outside the pass through the reef very carefully. We could see there was another couple of boats already anchored there about a quarter of a mile apart and we parked ourselves between them.

Once we knew the anchor was settled we popped a beer each and celebrated our arrival.

In the morning, after the usual net stuff we put away the Code Zero and a few other things we’d left out. We then dinghied in through the pass to the main dock where we tied up the dinghy and went ashore. We said hello to the port captain who had no formalities for us. After over 10 months it was great to speak to an official in native English. We were soon at the end of the ‘boulevard’ where we drew out some NZ$s and visited customs/immigration and the agricultural inspector. The paperwork progressed smoothly and with a lot of friendliness – a great change from some of the other places we have been to. We then went for a little walk around, looked at a few shops then sat down to fish and chips for lunch – huge portions which bloated us out.

Back on the boat we prepped to come in. The tide was rising but it was only just after low tide. We’d taken soundings on the way out and knew we just had enough room. We did bump bottom once and ran into a shallow sand bank obliquely which we had to back off from. But nothing major. We soon had our bow and stern anchors out and settled in for the afternoon to relax after the passage.

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Tomorrow we plan to hire bikes and cycle around the island. In the evening we hope to go and see some local dancing at one of the nearby vacation spots. We heard from a couple of people that tomorrow nights dancing is the best on the island/atoll.

Incidentally – we are now the furthest south of our trip to date.

Approaching Aitutaki

Hopes for arrival today, the 17th, are now dwindling. We’ve had the Code Zero up all night with winds around 10 knots. We can average 4.5kts in this but it’s not enough to arrive in daylight. Right now, it’s not enough to arrive before midnight. I fixed the speed log yesterday which I should have done when at anchor. Knowing our speed through the water suggests we have a small counter current which surprises me but that may explain part of our slowness.

I also learned some more about the water maker issues. Three days into the voyage the seas are a little calmer and I more or less have my sea legs. That means I can spend a bit more time upside down in the bilge. I found a piece broken off the water maker and traced it to the cap on the high pressure cylinder. Perhaps this was broken during our bumpy exit from Maupiti or maybe it was just a coincidence. I will assume the former and see if there is a way to mount the unit with a little more clearance from the hull to reduce the possibility of impact. It will be a good exercise anyway.

Apart from the niggling issues all is well aboard. We’ve all got through the first 48 hours of passage which feel the worse. It would be nice if we could arrive by sunset. If we had the winds forecast in our GRIBs we still could but we don’t and we probably won’t. Next blog from land, hopefully.

We’ve left French Polynesia behind us after over three months in the area starting with landfall in Fatu Hiva, Marquesas seemingly a lifetime ago. Ahead of us are English speaking islands which we look forward to after nearly a year in Spanish and French speaking countries. We learned a few words of each but never enough to get by. We also hear that in Niue (near the end of the month) we can get English Breakfasts and curry. Much to look forward to.

Wind

There’s not enough of it and it’s coming from right behind us. At least we have our new Code Zero. Otherwise we’d be pulling our hair out. The wind also can’t decide where to come from. For a while it was coming from the north east. We’ve jibed the Code Zero three times today getting better at it each time.

We need to make an average of 5.7 knots to reach Aitutaki by dusk tomorrow. We’re currently doing 5 in just over twice that of wind. Fortunately this one can be approached after dusk but we’d prefer not to. I’ve put some beers in the fridge just in case we’re in the mood when we arrive.