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John: Day 12

Steve found loads of flying fish in the morning 20 of them.

We saw a big boat of some sort. After taking some pictures and zooming in on them it looks like a rusty fishing boat.

We have been going slightly off course to go with the wind. I would prefer it if th wind came around a little bit so we are on course.

When we bright in the lines we have lost another lure and on the other line the hook was missing. We are catching things, but we think that because we aren’t noticing in time, something bigger is taking our fish.

Steve: Day 12

The flying fish have collectively recognized the futility of their daytime suicide runs and have switched to en masse night sortes. At dawn I collected 20 of the buggers, big ones, from around the boat. Overnight we had a few rough broadsides and after each I could hear the rascals flapping around above our cabin. Grrrrr.

The one departure from normal was sighting a nearby fishing vessel. In it’s vicinity we came quite close to what looked like a floating radio beacon. I was concerned it may be one of many and we were about to run into a net but fortunately we had none of that. For a while the fishing boat turned and came straight at us but that ended up being part of some broader maneuvering.

We’ve been in email contact with Bristol Rose who are a few days behind us. Their current plans are to make landfall in Hiva Oa which could be around the time we’ll be there. We didn’t hook up in the Galapagos so perhaps we’ll rendezvous soon. We’ve also been hearing from Steve & Trish on Curious who are a few weeks ahead of us and have got quite excited by what they have reported.

The winds continue to come out of the East. With the motion over the swell (up to 10-12 feet at times) we can usually go no further than 125 degrees apparent (about 140 true) down wind before the main sail starts covering the headsail part of the time. We’re now off course by about 17 degrees which is not desirable. I’m going to try wing on wing for a while (headsail and mainsail out on opposite sides of the boat) today. We’ll need to be cautious about this and rig preventers to prevent an accidental jibe. I would rather have a favourable wind shift though.

Some of the boats in the group behind us have opted to stay north of 5S for a while which, in hindsight, would have been a lot better for us. We’d have kept the 1 to 1.5 knot current for a few extra days and had a better desired heading through these easterlies. Based on our recent average boat speed our ETA is May 1 but I’m sticking to May 2 as we’ll have to add distance to cover for our bad heading.

We’ve been inattentive with our fishing recently. Over the last few days we’ve lost about 3 lures and one hook. They don’t just fall off. I reckon we’ve either hooked big beasties that managed to snap the 200lb line above the leader or were regular fish that were eaten in turn by sharks. Who knows but if we’re going to fish we’ll have to do it when we’re prepared to watch.

Helen: Day 11

Deck kill! Every morning there’s dead flying fish and squids lying around the deck. At dawn, Steve and sometimes John makes a deck sweep and throws them all back into the sea. This is usually before I wake up but I do see the evidence of kill from the fish scales spluttered all about and the general stink. Not only are the flying fish on the deck but in the cockpit and even inside the boat. The other night, when I went to wake John up to take over watch, I was overwhelmed by the reek that came from around his cabin and bathroom. I thought at first he really must take more showers and clean his head better but John also noticed the smell and soon discovered a rotting flying fish near his cabin door. The fish must have flapped itself inside through the opened back door and down the steps. All we have to do now is follow our nose and scale trails to find fish that have managed to slip inside.

Every evening after dinner, we discuss strategies for the night watch. At what wind speed do we reef the main and head sails. Under what condition do we go off course and sail with the wind. When do we start or stop the regeneration. When do we switch off the cross charger. When and who do we wake up when we need help.
Recently the conditions have been pretty constant so the outlines have been an iteration of previous nights. Fortunately there’s been no incidents since the out haul snapped during Steve’s shift a few nights ago.

Watches have really become watches. We barely need to trim the sails and the auto pilot or wind vane does all the steering. We watch the instruments, we watch the sea, we watch the sky, we watch the sails. We sit there and watch the time and miles go by.

John: Day 11

My early morning shift I had to get rid of some stowaways, two flying fish, 1 in the kitchen and 1 on the door step leading into the kitchen.

I must admit it was a good effort to get that far, not as far as the 1 that got on to the steps from the saloon areas to my hull, but still quite impressive. They must have bounced of something and during the day light I think I see the scales and a splat where 1 of them did.

Mum and Steve saw a big cargo ship this morning. I was asleep.

After the lost of 2 lures yesterday, Steve has only put out the remaining 2 lines, firstly because we haven’t fixed the other 2 lines and secondly 4 lines is a bit much in these big seas.

Forgot to mention yesterday, but Mum broke out the last of the chocolate that Ella brought over, mum stashed it away from us, it has been shared out and we are again very thankful to Ella for bringing it over. Thank you Darling.

As we progress my early morning shift 2-5am is slowly turning into a 11pm-2am shift. We are having lunch and dinner later and later and I’m finding it very hard to sleep before this shift. Just as I do fall asleep, Mum wakes me for the shift change over.

Steve: Day 11

These flying fish are beginning to piss me off. I know my relationship with them took a turn for the worse when one invaded the inner sanctum of my bed but recently their activities are getting suspicious. For the first half of the trip, each morning one it was light I would inspect the deck and find any flying fish or squid which had suicided on the deck overnight. Both sets of creatures stink nastily so the exercise is usually followed by a good scrub of the fingers. The squid realized the futility of their attacks and stopped after a few days. The flying fish have taken the opposite approach and are now instigating daylight attacks. Often, the outcome for the them is the same. They end up dead. Some get away leaving only splatters of scales or the odd bloodstain to mark their attempt at boarding. They’ve even recruited their spry – tiny little flying fish that die and quickly dry up into a husk on contact. I have to pick them all up and toss them overboard.

The skies today were clearer than the past couple of days so we saw more sun than usual. The winds were light and clocked round to the east making it difficult for us to hold the rhumb line and maintain whatever boat speed we could get. I used this as an opportunity to get atop the bimini and tie in a new outhaul so we could shake out the first reef. At around 7.5S we also lost the favourable current which was giving us about an extra knot. This was corroborated by another boat on the net who lost it about the same latitude. This was good info for the boats behind us who have an opportunity to stay in the current a little longer with this information. This has resulted in the slowest day since the first two when we had winds light enough to leave hatches open (and be invaded by fish). The result of the lighter winds and loss of current has put our 24 distance made down to around 148nm rather than the 170nm-190nm range we’ve managed for the previous few days.

Around dawn we had a close encounter with a cargo ship called the Tombarra bound for Aukland. When I say close I mean 6nm which is close when you’ve seen nothing for 10 days. I hailed the watch officer on the radio to say hello. He gave an unrecognised monosyllable in response to my greeting which I took for an end of conversation.

Aboard we’re really into mid passage routine with each day blending into the next. Our watch rotation marks the time. When off watch we read, rest or sleep. On watch we take care of the boat keeping her on heading and checking for traffic. The radio nets and our emails give us contact with the nearby and extended world but the rest of the time it’s just us in our little bubble of life making our way across this vast ocean. The character of the night shifts are changing with the brightening moon. Initially they were as dark as you can get with the heavens bright with stars and the milky way. With the moon lighting the landscape we see an exaggerated almost monochrome sea scape with the accents between waves being highlighted to the extent where the troughs can sometime feel like bottomless pits.

Time is marked by the countdown of our distance to go. Once we’d passed the 2,000nm mark it the hundreds felt like a countdown from 20. 20, 19, 18, …. As I write we’re now in the 12’s. Single digits in a couple of days.

We now have a candidate itinerary for the Marquesas :

Fatu Hiva (1 stop)
Hiva Oa (1 stop)
Tahuata (2 stops)
Hiva Oa (2 more stops north side)
Ua Pou (1 stop)
Nuku Hiva (3 stops)

This will take us around 3 weeks. That will give us around 3 more weeks to reach Tahiti, including visiting the Tuamotos, in the time for the Pacific Puddle Jump rendezvous/party. So much to do, so little time.