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The Grenadines « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

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Out and About Union Island

Yesterday morning we were up and going shortly after 7am for our island hike. It’s been getting quite warm and humid and an early start seemed the best thing. Afternoon hikes in the hills can be quite exhausting as the rocks heat up during the day making you feel like you’re in an oven.

Going into Clifton we tied off our dinghy outside of Lambi’s Bar & Restaurant and were soon climbing the road out of town. Looking back at the anchorage the sun was still low in the sky but it was already getting quite warm.

We took the road that circled ‘The Pinnacle’ anticlockwise that soon turned into a dirt track – as we expected. At one point we missed a side turn where the path on was literally a path and ended up approaching someone’s house. Their dogs made it quite clear we had strayed too far. Back on the right path we continued our way around eventually descending on the town of Ashton.

Across the valley we could see the ridge and peak that were the target of our walk. Our guidebook suggested there was a track up to the ridge but when we asked locals we were given different pointers. One lady we spoke to, Lorrenta, turned out to have an interesting history. She was born on the island but now lived in Toronto. She had spent 4 years in the Uk training to be a nurse living very close to where we used to live in North London and actually working in the hospital where our children were born. Lorrenta asked the directions off of a friend called Fambo. He not only showed us the way but took us part the way too.

Climbing the ridge turned out to be very hard work. It was less than a 1,000 feet high which made the ascent minor in comparison to some of our recent hikes. However, the heat and humidity were really kicking in making the climb exhausting. Helen felt like she was having heat stroke towards the end of the climb. The views from the top made it all worth the effort though. The path was not maintained and the ridge top covered in cacti so we did have to be careful where we trod. From the ridge we could see Clifton in the distance and could look down on Ashton and an old abandoned half-built marina. The only sounds at the top were faint gospel music (it was Sunday) from Ashton and the odd crash as Iguana fell from their twigs. Unfortunately we could also see a higher peak which I felt compelled to climb. Helen, still suffering from the heat, took this as an opportunity to rest up.

I made my way up this higher peak. At first the trail was fairly obvious but I soon lost it and ended up following goat trails which, unsurprisingly, were made For Goats, By Goats, and hence meant everything above waist height had to be pushed through. Foliage in arid countries is somewhat defensive so I ended up being quite scratched.

I finally made it to the peak and was rewarded with a 360 degree panorama. Going down was worse than going up. I couldn’t even find the route I took going up and ended up slipping and sliding into cacti and thorns. I did find a better way up at one point. My hopes were raised as this suggested I had found the trail down. But I lost that too. Helen had got quite worried at the time it took me to get down again but I made it mostly in once piece.

Back down the trail in Ashton we picked up a couple of cold drinks then walked the coastal road to Clifton. We spent the afternoon relaxing before heading out to the bar on Happy Island to meet up with Anne and Jim for sundowners. They had arrived earlier in the day and are passing through on their way to Grenada.

Happy Island started in 2002 when it’s owner, Janti, built it up from the reef using conch shells and rubble. On it he built a bar which is very quaint. Nowadays he lives on the island with his girlfriend from Plaistow, London. We only met his girlfriend last night as Janti was laid up with a bad back from the latest island extension.

Right now it’s raining hard. Not sure what we will do today. Bees Knees are heading off today on a more aggressive schedule to get to Grenada than we have. We’ll see them again in a couple of weeks.

Not a lot

Not a lot really happened yesterday. We took a walk into town, bought some bread and fruit. Came back. Surfed the web a little too much. Finished downloading the last but one episode of Survivor hoping we’d get to see the winner – we didn’t.

This morning we’re off for a hike but haven’t decided where yet. We may dive on the reef this afternoon.

Union Island

We’ve arrived in Union Island and are back online. We’re anchored right off Happy Island in Clifton Bay. We could swim there if we want. For now we’re catching up on emails and news. Here are pics missing from the last few days in the Cays and Mayreau :

Worlds End Reef

Tobago Cays

Mayreau

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Mayreau

After settling down in Saltwhistle Bay, Helen and I decided to chance the weather and walk the road into town – back to Saline Bay from where we had just come. The road is only a mile or so with a few hundred feet to climb along the way. We’d heard that there were a number of festivities planned for the May Day weekend and were keen to see how they were progressing. At the top of the hill was a quaint church with views of the Tobago Cays. At least there would have been views if not for the wind and drizzle which was slowly getting us wetter and wetter.

In town we passed a number of restaurants and decided we would definitely eat out in the evening although we hadn’t made our minds up which place to go. Down on the beach things were only just being set up so we turned around and walked back to the boat hoping for better weather later.

We chatted to Bees Knees on the VHF and agreed a plan. We were to leave for town again at 4pm, go to the beach and then have a ‘bar crawl’ and dinner out. The afternoon was hot, humid and sleepy doing not much more than a reading and finishing a crossword.

When we all got to the beach we saw the locals congregating and may pole dancing to Caribbean music. An interesting combination. They certainly seemed to be having fun. We had a couple of beers on the beach before heading back up the road through town for our ‘crawl.’ The first problem was that all the staff were down at the beach so nothing was open until 6pm. We were able to sit upstairs at one of the bars while we waited for the staff to show. When they did we had rum cocktails.

We decided on dinner at Denis’s. We all had fish creole which was cooked fresh and was utterly delicious. It took a while to cook so we used the time wisely sampling a new cocktail list.

Walking back was a bit of a stagger but we made it. Overnight it rained a lot and now it is drizzling and overcast. Reminds me of England.

Today we will probably sail over to Union. We’re in need of fresh food as we’ve run out of fruit, etc. With the holiday weekend upon us we need to go today or wait until Tuesday.

Saltwhistle Bay

We sailed to Saline Bay but found the smell coming of the salt pan unpleasant. So we’ve moved to Saltwhistle Bay to figure out what next. No internet. No pics from the Cays today.

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