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Swimming With Turtles

Another very relaxing day here in the Tobago Cays. The day started with a little bit of work. Helen hoisted me up to the spreaders so I could thread a line through a pulley on the port side so we could raise our Union Jack bought in Bequia.

Our first excursion from the boat was to take the dinghy over to another Cay this time called Petit Bateau. This time we were unable to walk around the little island but there was a path across it and a path, of sorts, to the summit. On the west side of the island we found a place where they cook lobster on the beach and there were a couple of tee-short vendors. We left this place and climbed to the summit. Along the way we could occasionally hear the odd iguana scurrying away but we could not catch them. The Tabago Cays never fail to stun whatever viewpoint you catch them from.

In the afternoon we dinghyied over to Baradel where we’d had sundowners the night before (or was it two nights ago – can’t remember now). There were quite worn but quaint trails to the summit of this little cay which of course we climbed. This time we saw very many iguana including four at one once at one point. This time, wouldn’t you believe, we’d left the camera on Dignity. In the end we must have seen a dozen or so including some precariously balance in the trees on twigs which looked far to small to carry them.

We then went snorkeling in the turtle watching reserve right off Baradel. It’s an area fenced off to prevent anchoring where turtle grass grows and hence attracts a few turtles. We were treated to seeing six turtles at once including one accompanied by a large ramora which took turns clinging to it’s topside or bottomside depending on whether the turtle was grazing on the seabed or not. We met anne and Jim out here and shared these experiences with them. We finished our swim out on the Horseshoe Reef. The water was a few feet deep and very clear which allows us to get very close to the fauna and flora and see all the detail and colour.

In the evening we picked up some DVDs to borrow from Bees Knees. Back on Dignity we watched Galaxy Quest which was very funny and entertaining.

Today we’re off to Mayreau. Our plan is to head to Saline Bay and check out the shore life. Being Friday evening there should be live music. Our budget over the last week has been minimal so we may go out to eat or at least drink. Tomorrow we may then head up to Saltwhistle Bay on the north of the island. Bees Knees have similar plans but intend to visit the bays in the opposite order.

Fun in the Cays

We had a great time yesterday. The day started with some serious relaxing and not doing much bar read our books and marvel at where we are. The tidal range here is less than 2 feet but it makes a lot of difference. At 7am yesterday morning we had the high, high tide of the day which meant the waves were making it over the reef and making things choppy. So it was a case of waiting it out – waiting for it to calm.

We agreed with Jim and Anne to go and explore and snorkel around Petit Tabac around 10am. This involved dingying out through a small cut in the reef and making our way over boisterous water to the calm waters surrounding Petit Tabac. Ashore we walked all around the island. On one side it was fine sand (closer to what you see in the movie) and on the windward side the shore comprised rock and, mainly, broken coral. We then took the the crystal clear waters and snorkeled together. We found the current a little strong so we broke of the snorkel and dinghied back inside the main reef to continue our snorkel towing the dinghies along with us. Here, in more crystal clear water, we saw more marine life including turtles in the reserve area.

In the afternoon Helen and I dinghied over to one of the cays called Jamesby. We climbed to the summit to take in the view and, of course, take pictures. Even though the cay had one smallish beach we found we could walk all the way round often on smoothed over rocks walking under rocky overhangs. As we rounded each corner many crab would be disturbed and scuttle off to find cover.

At 5pm we again met up with Jim and Anne and four from another boat the Bees Knees knew, Arctic Tern. They were Devie, Hunter, Jay and Deb – the first two being the boat owners, aboard for three years already, and the latter two friends/guests. They were all National Park folk from Alaska and very interesting people. We hung around watching the sunset from the beach on Baradel, another Cay. As it got dark we all headed back to our boats with Bees Knees coming over to ours for evening meal. We finished off the Tuna Curry as well as a vege curry Anne had made.

Today we’ll hang around the Cays again. More snorkeling and more island exploring is in order.

Tobago Cays

Well – our little piece of isolated heaven turned a little bumpy. After lunch and a rest we went snorkeling and within minutes of being in the water the chop picked up and we found more than the usal amount of seawater making it’s way into our tubes. The sand and reef was pretty bare of life so the excursion didn’t last long. We then took to the dinghy to explore the rest of the World’s End Reef to see if there was a calmer spot. There wasn’t really. Still, we waited another hour or two to see how things would pan out. In the end we decided to shift Dignity into the double protected but more crowded Tobago Cays.

Here we reunited with Bees Knees. They already had plans for the evening so we settled down to a Tuna curry and watched the movie “The Secret Life of Bees”. Today we shall explore the Tobago Cay. There are many turtles and rays here we understand. Each of the little islands around us has beach and an interior to explore. Should be fun if the weather calms down. Right now it’s a bit windy and the chop has made it’s way here too.

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Arrived safely at a little patch of heaven

Good sail from Mustique to Worlds End Reef although not with incident. When raising the mainsail the electric winch got stuck on so there was a moment of frantic breaker switching to prevent further issues. More excitingly we caught two, get that, two fish on the way down. Ok – so they were both barracuda but they were not tiddlers either. They were both set free.

We’re now anchored on a gorgeous patch of turquoise send all on our own. Off in the distance North/West/South of us are the islands of Mustique, Canouan, Mayreau, Union, Carricou, Grenada and more. To the east, the Atlantic ocean gently roars with nothing in the way of the wind all the way to Africa. Petit Tabac (that’s where Capt Jack was marooned) is craftily concealing most of the 40-50 boats anchored a mile or two west in the main part of the Tobago Cays. There is little but much to do in this little patch of heaven.

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Plans changed again

New itinerary for next week or two :

1. Round corner to Friendship Bay via Petit Nevis
2. Mustique
3. World’s End Reef, Tobago Cays
4. Canouan
5. Mayreau
6. Union Island


View Grenadines plan in a larger map