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Steve’s Update

It’s been a long time since this blog was updated and even longer since I did an update. We have been staying in touch with close family and friends but even then it’s been a little piecemeal. I can imagine some of our past regular readers may be a little concerned so here’s my take on things.

The last few months have been one hell of a journey for both of us. Helen has been a pillar for us both throughout this experience. She has refused to give up and always looked for the positive view. I’ve seen sides of her I’ve not seen before and become ever closer as a result. This optimistic side has been reflected in the blog entries she has made. This hasn’t told the whole story as you can imagine. Naturally we’ve both had our darker moments and sometimes together. I won’t dwell on this.

For my part I left off back in Port Denaru when my symptoms were continuing to grow more severe. Looking back at what I wrote I can see the emotional deterioration too. I was not only reacting to the other symptoms, but my emotional state was also a symptom too.

By the time we flew to Australia not too long after my last blog entry my mental and emotional state was such that my communications shut down. At that point we had no idea of the cause of all my symptoms but we were in the right place to find out. I remember bits and pieces of the first month but some aspects are a complete blank. Some events (like my brain biopsy) I have no memory of except for one brief one post op experience.

I remember being told the final diagnosis (Primary CNS T-C Lymphoma in brain and spine) and being quite unemotional about that. I was more concerned about everything else, especially my family.

Once I was put on a heavy dose of steroids to reduce the swelling in my brain I had a rapid but not complete turnaround. My double vision and imbalance recovered and my memory storing returned. The steroids had a bad effect on me emotionally. I felt very agoraphobic and withdrawn. Having the accommodation offered by Helen’s cousin Sarah and her family was priceless and we’re eternally grateful. Having somewhere to go and be by myself (with Helen putting up with me) was very needed. The loan of a car from our old friends Janine and Brian was also fantastic as it gave us the mobility we needed to get back and forth to the hospital through the chemo sessions without imposing on the family.

The five initial rounds of chemo soon began. I was administered high dose Methotrexate and Vincristine on each round and Procarbazine on the odd rounds.
The first round of chemo left me in a very dark place though. Dealing with anything was quite impossible. Helen continued to handle everything. This slowly improved in line with the reduction in steroid dose. Anxiety remained a big problem, particularly considering our remoteness, the boat situation and Sam and of course the disease and it’s various consequences.

Somewhere around round 2 I experienced a week of overnight leg pains which fortunately stopped a couple of nights before the next chemo round. I tossed and turned a lot with these pains and gave Helen a bad time sleeping.

At the end of round 4 I was prescribed Sertraline to deal with the anxiety. The combination of this and my general improvement over time later resulted in my returning to more my normal self around this time. I was able to interact with people more positively and I received a lot of positive feedback from those around me. This all helped a lot. It was nice to be able to interact with Sarah and her family without all the internal turmoil I had been going through.

Between rounds 4 and 5 we made our first trip to Brisbane to meet the boat. We were picked up from the airport by Trish from Bristol Rose who have their boat berthed at the nearby Royal Queensland Marina and who now live and work in Brisbane. As it turned out Trish gave us a greater surprise as unbeknown to us she’d picked up Sam in the morning and it was he that met us while Trish waited in the car outside. It was fantastic to see Sam there and to meet Trish again although I was being hammered by a really bad headache which was to last for 4-5 days. We met Rob towards the end of our visit which was equally nice.

At the not too aptly named Morten Bay Trailer Boat Marina we finally met up with Peter on Dignity. Dignity looked sad without her mast but inside you couldn’t tell. Peter stayed for a few days and was incredibly helpful talking to the various riggers, sail makers, shipwrights we had visit. For insurance purposes we needed multiple quotes so there were a lot of visitors. My headache and general condition at the time left me on the sofa for much of the time so this was doubly useful.

We returned to Melbourne for my 5th round of chemo. This was probably the hardest of the lot. While my headache had subsided it was returning in bouts making me sensitive to light and pretty uncomfortable. For the most part it responded to Panadol but one night I needed something stronger and was given some Endone, a much stronger drug. I’m not big on pain killers (apart from the ones you drink) so I’m glad I only needed this once.

Part of my normal behavior is to be a bit fussy about the food I eat. Maybe this was the reason I lost my appetite during round 5 of the chemo. After 3 months I’d finally had enough of the hospital food but I wasn’t feeling hungry. I’d lost a lot of weight by then but was on my way back up. It was a bit concerning to lose my appetite but it soon returned when I was out of hospital.

On rounds 1-4 I was discharged in minimum time when the methotrexate levels in my blood dropped below the required level. On the 5th round I had to stay an extra day. Even after the extra day I failed the blood test but asked them if there was any way I could go home regardless. With some extra drugs in hand I was discharged and able to join Sarah’s family celebrating their eldest son Chris’ 19th birthday.

So after 5 rounds of chemo my initial symptoms are vastly improved. I’m off the steroids but still retain by vision and balance. My mental faculties have returned and my confidence improved. I have managed to take on a lot of the workload Helen had had to assume. This is all good.

Without knowing how others respond it’s hard to really know but I understand I responded quite well to the chemo with not too many side effects. I have been left with some peripheral neuropathy (tingly finger tips and a numb area inside one foot). This is from the drugs and often improves over time. I also have a patch of skin on my left thigh which is numb. This could be nerve damage and probably won’t recover. My strength has been badly impacted as a result of a number of factors but is slowly returning.

After the fifth round of chemo I had two more MRIs (6th and 7th) of my brain and spine. With 8 days to the doctors visit to hear the result we made another trip to Brisbane to work on the boat.

Another nice surprise was bumping into Pam and John from Passages who are also here for a while. The consequences of my condition regardless of the treatment outcome are that our cruise has probably come to an end so it’s nice to keep a little of the old times going by meeting up with good friends.
Sam, who has entered on a young person’s work visa, had found some work and was building on his hours.

This time I was able to contribute more than during the first visit but easily tired.

We returned to Melbourne to hear the results of the MRI. This turned out to be in line with my symptom recovery. The lesions noted in earlier MRIs throughout my brain and spine had reduced both in size and number. A number of ‘shadows’ remained which could be scar tissue from before or still active lesions. Without extremely harmful burrowing through my brain and spine there was no way to know the difference so further treatment is recommended and soon. The recommendation is radiotherapy for whole brain irradiation and something similar for the spine. The spinal irradiation may affect my bone marrow so a drug regime to stimulate stem cell production into the blood followed by a harvest is recommended. If necessary, these stem cells can be used if necessary to treat side effects. The radiation therapy will be followed by two more rounds of chemo, this time Cytrabine.

We’ve spent a lot of time looking at our options regarding future monitoring / treatment. We’ve come to the conclusion that we will need to return to the UK for this and sooner rather than later. It doesn’t look appropriate to interrupt the current treatment as this would involve trying to integrate two disparate treatment protocols as well as creating a potential rediagnosis problem due to the progress made so far. So while we’re pretty sure it’s best to carry on here the future remains up in the air. We continue to research, communicate and learn more.

Next week, on Tuesday again, we meet the haematology doctor again as well as the radiotherapy doctor to learn more about the various treatments and make decisions, particularly about the radiotherapy, as to which to go with. Because my particular condition is incredibly rare, past stats are not in abundance. The last occurrence in Victoria, a state of 5.5 million people, of primary CNS t-cell lymphoma was 5 years ago so there’s not a great deal to go on.

So we’re back down in Brisbane for our third visit. The boat is still our home despite everything so despite having to be busy and not sailing anywhere it’s nice to be here. Having said that, the weather has been lousy the last couple of days so we’ve generally relaxed.

On the boat front, in conjunction with the insurance company we’ve selected our rigger, sail maker, shipwright and electrician. The insurance company has been good throughout as they should be. We have been told that the first tranche of funds has been passed from the underwriter to the broker which we now await so we can pass this on to the service providers to commence work.

The last 4-5 months have been a monumental experience for us and I don’t know how we could have coped (or in my case survived) without the help and support from family and friends.

First and foremost my sincere appreciation goes to Sarah and her husband Russ who opened their doors for us and keep reminding us they remain open. Thanks also go to their children Chris, Jack and Ros who have not just put up with us in their presence but welcomed us as family members going through a very rough patch. I feel a special affection towards all of them.

Again thanks go to Janine and Brian for the loan of their car which we’ve used for hospital visits and a couple of the airport runs.
Thanks also to our friends on Bristol Rose and Passages for the times they’ve helped us and just for their company.

Thanks of course to Peter for getting Sam and Dignity to Australia in one piece despite a problem that’s probably been long in the coming.

Big thanks also to everyone who has communicated to us throughout in any way, be it just supportive comments or with useful information about cancer and treatments. Sorry if we’ve not responded to everybody but please know how important this has been and continues to be to us.

It’s hard to express how much gratitude we have to the medical staff that have looked after me so far. My survival prognosis without treatment was grim so we have everything to thank them for.

Finally, and most importantly, my thanks go to Helen for the support she’s given throughout. Only she knows what she’s had to put up with and endure (even I don’t know for sure). I haven’t the words to really express how I feel for how she has coped with everything. As I mentioned earlier this experience has really brought us close together. Life has turned a corner for us and the future now has a lot of uncertainty. We know we’ve had a great run so far and treasure the moments we get now. The future still exists and we have much to do still. But we have each other to help face it and that is priceless.

Party Time

Before the morning SSB net was over John and I headed ashore. I had a date with our agent, Laurent, as he had received a letter containing my bank card. Our old one had expired and we really needed this one. Once we had this we headed off to the Carrefour to pick up some beer for the evening. The local beers had an offer going where the price for 20 was reduced. We picked up 40 bottles only to find the offer was over. I figured what the hell and bought them all anyway. John picked up some Magnum ice cream for a birthday present.

Back on the boat we go into the business of stuffing the beers away into all corners of the fridge and freezer. Later in the morning Helen cooked up an artery busting fry up for brunch which we followed up with the intensely chocolaty magnums.

We spent the afternoon cleaning the boat up and then reanchoring (four times) as we were a little too close to one of the other boats. The anchor seemed to have a lot of trouble setting. We were in 60 feet of water so we weren’t lifting it up off the bottom each time. At one point I asked Helen to raise the anchor out of the water just to make sure we still had one.

At 6pm the evening’s festivities began. We had invited the folks from A Cappella, Bristol Rose, Callisto, Imagine, Inn for Penny II, Inspiration Lady, Leu Cat, Lilith, Sea Mist, Song Line & Whoosh for a combined birthday (for me)/farewell (for John) party. Helen had been concerned about the boat being too crowded but in the end we comfortably held 27 people aboard without people having to spill forward. The weather remained perfect for the evening. With that many people it was impossible to chat to everyone but everyone seemed to have a good time.

About half way through Helen called for quiet so the ladies could enact a scheme they’d come up with (inspired I understand by Sheilah from Imagine). They had put on fresh lipstick and in turn they each sang to me then kissed me somewhere on the face. I ended up, of course, with lots of marks on my face.

The evening went very well. It was good for John to meet up again with a few of the folks he’s got to know. For us, it may be almost the last time we see a few of these folks. Out of Tahiti everyone is heading towards Bora Bora but from there they’ll head off in different directions and on different timetables. While we wait here in Tahiti for the next two weeks, many will move on and we may never catch up. Those going to New Zealand we’ll see but those on their way, like Whiskers, to Australia will be too far ahead of us. However, we’ll meet some new people who are on the trail behind us which will be good.

Helen and I are looking at the various anchorages around Tahiti so we have an idea of what to do over the next couple of weeks. Things are going a bit crappy with some of our internet orders. If we can sort these out we can get out of here the day after John leaves.

Kauehi Village

We waited for the morning net to finish before leaving the southern side of the atoll bound for the village on the north east side. We’d agreed to go along with Fine Gold so we could double up on spotting coral heads. Collectively, the three of us didn’t manage a good job as we struck one that was one inch less deep than our port keel. Shortly after that moment a squall came down on us cutting surface visibility to zero so we pointed into wind and motored along at less than one knot to wait it out.

Once the weather cleared we were back under way this time creeping along at three knots gradually increasing the speed as the visibility improved. Once we reached the track of our way into the southern area we turned and followed it back knowing we had a clear passage but still keeping a close eye on things until we hit the marked channel. On arrival at the anchorage outside the village we took three attempts to anchor as we were not happy with our positioning on the first two tries but once settled in we were fine.

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We took lunch and rested for a bit. John went off snorkeling with the Bristol Roses who were in the anchorage while Helen & I went ashore. We met a few of the locals around the village who were all smiles and Bonjours which made us feel good being there. They had a pretty church with some unique (to us) decorations made of shells. We also spent some time with a chap who was making jewelry out of oyster shells which looked quite pretty although none were finished and ready for sale.

The town was small and we were done fairly quickly. We pleased a few children by the shore by handing them sweets/candy/bon bons we had in our pockets. Soon we were back aboard Dignity preparing for the evening. We’d promised to entertain Lileth sometime and as they had the same Vancouver 27 as Lileth, we invited Fine Gold over to dinner too. We heard from Jackster on the VHF and learned they’d taken a pounding on their passage from the Marquesas experiencing Force 10 winds at times and Force 8 for extended periods. While reporting themselves as chipper, they’d taken some damage and we felt they could do with some care and attention so we invited them too.

So we ended up with dinner for nine. We can just squeeze this number round our table which is nice. We had a great evening all together and we were glad to be able to introduce Fine Gold and Lileth as you don’t see too many 27 footers out here and they had much to share.

Looking at the tide predictions for the next few days we realized that Thursday/Friday this week were the last two days for a while where we had an afternoon slack tide into Fakarava with enough time to find a spot to anchor while it would be light. Beyond Friday we’d have to do an overnight passage to Fakarava and make a morning slack tide which is less attractive. Fakarava has a lot going for it so we decided to head out this morning. Slack tide was just before 9am but we decided to make the cut around 7:30am against the tide to buy us more time to reach the cut at the south end of Fakarava. We shared our thoughts with others and we ended up leading four other boats out of the anchorage and the pass this morning relaying information about our experience. Transiting the cut away from slack tide was again pretty easy. We encountered a 1.5 knot counter current while staying close to the shore. We experienced a minimum depth of 13ft which we reported to the vessels behind us and those approaching from the outside. The vessels that were uncomfortable with the depth went through a little more to the center saw 3 knot counter currents but all were well.

We are now en route to the southern end of Fakarava. The winds are light but progress is good. Four of the vessels (us, Sea Mist, Imagine and A Cappella) are on their way to the southern end while Bristol Rose are on their way to the north cut where they hope to meet up with Whiskers before they head north.

The Boating Life

The last 24 hours has been interesting. We started the day with a wash which meant running the generator. We turned on the water maker to catch up on the recent water used and that from the wash. Not long after running the water maker the circuit breaker tripped. It’s done this a few times since we repaired our last problem but always ran ok when the breaker was reset and the water maker restarted. With no other apparent issues I put this down to an over sensitive breaker. This time however the (original) motor connected to the recently replaced feeder pump started losing power and the pressure dropped out of the pump. Not good.

This was the beginning of a day of troubleshooting. The basic question was were we still being plagued by a problem which caused our original pump failure or are we seeing a problem that was created as a result of previously running the system with a blockage. Throughout the day I checked as much as I could, changed all the filters (again), checked and checked but the water maker persisted in only running well for about 5 minutes at a time – barely enough to replace the initial fresh water rinse it performs on start up.

I have a favoured hypothesis as to what the problem is. I suspect (but am not sure) that we damaged the motor at the same time as the pump assembly. Specifically I think it overheated and fused some of the coils. Until recently, when starting cold with the lowest resistance it soon trips the circuit breaker. Once warmed up the resistance was high enough to prevent tripping the breaker and the damage slight enough not to be noticed. I further wonder if running the water maker while charging, which resulted in a higher voltage than normal, running through the pump caused further damage and now the motor is close to death. I really want to be sure about this as this will now mean shipping out a new motor to us. Regardless, we’re now back to rationing our fresh water. Fortunately we still have some water from the Marquesas but not a lot. We have a full tank and a bit on board so we should be ok for a while.

On the up side, during the morning John and Lucy from Tyee (last seen in Las Perlas Islands, Panama) came by. They’re anchored about 1/2 a mile away and we hadn’t realized until now. It was great to see them. John invited us out to play with his array of kite boards which John and I agreed to do after lunch.

Before lunch we all went off snorkeling nearby where there was a lot more coral in shallow water. It was great swimming amongst the coral in the clear water. We all spotted a large grouper and Helen spied a black tipped reef shark – a small one so she had the thrill of seeing a shark close by in the water without the fear of being eaten.

After lunch and some more faffing around with the water maker John and I headed over to Tyee to see what we could learn about kite boarding. As we had no experience at all we were shown the practice kite which we played with for about 2 hours standing in a shallow reef. This skill has to be acquired long before trying to use the force of the kite to go surfing on the board. While we were there Kamaya showed up. This pleased the Tyee kids no end as they’d been without friends their size for a while. Tim was soon out on his kite board racing John out on the lagoon showing John and I what could be done with a lot of practice.

Back on Dignity we settled down for an early evening. I found it difficult to get to sleep worrying about the water maker. When I finally slept it was fitfully as we ended up with a night of thunderstorms. Laptops and hand held VHFs/GPS went into the microwave. Occasionally I would check. Around 1am I was woken by VHF chatter from Bristol Rose out at sea being pounded. Helen woke me early when we were in 40 knot winds. I called Bristol Rose to see if they were ok and while chatting our anchor popped and we were dragging. We quickly let out more chain and ended up stuck fast 0.2nm away from where we were anchored.

We learned that Fine Gold, nearby, had popped their anchor a few hours earlier and had ended up a mile away in very shallow water before getting back under control. They’re now anchored further away where they’re better sheltered from the wind. When things subside we may well join them as we’re too far out from the protection of the land for comfort.

Hatiheu

The boat needed a bit of a clean up so we spent the first part of the morning washing the decks and cleaning the interior. Once this was completed we set off for our walk to Hatiheu in the next bay.

The beach is accessible by dinghy through one small channel as the rest of the area is all shallow coral. We landed on the beach and secured the dinghy to a tree before walking along the beach looking for the path that would take us over the hill. There is a small village here if you can call it that – just a few small buildings and a church. We found the path up and began the climb. According to my charts the climb is about 250 feet but in the heat of mid morning with the sun on us it felt much higher.

As we climbed the view of Baie d’Anaho and it’s surrounds became progressively more impressive and stunning. Reaching the saddle where the trail peaked was a relief as it was now downhill to Hatiheu and, even better, it was shaded.

The view of the surrounding geography was even more stunning from Hatiheu. Volcanic rock formations towered over green hills and a sleepy little village. Typically there were a couple of small shops and an impressively built church.

After exploring the village we started climbing again up the track out of town towards where there were some ancient Polynesian ruins. We expected just a few rocks but found the base of a what must have been a town for several hundred if not thousands of people. It was a haunting reminder of the culture on these islands that was decimated by the arrival of Europeans, their diseases and their ideas. Contact was inevitable and cultures are inevitably impacted but it is still sad to see the result. While wondering the ruins we met Frank and Margo from Silver Lining and ended up chatting for a while.

Back in town we looked around for somewhere to eat. The only place open was a large dining area with meals for around $25-$40. We passed on this deciding to have a curry back aboard the boat.

We struggled back up to the saddle again now in the midday heat. On the way back down we came upon a French lady who had lost contact with her party. She looked exhausted so we offered her some of her water. It turned out she had no water as it was the rest of her party who were carrying it. We ended up giving her our bottle as we were on our way down and there was abundant free fresh water from taps by the beach. She was very grateful for this. Once we’d left her behind we realized we’d not seen anyone else on the trail so if she was behind her party it was a long way behind. Still, with a bottle to carry water she would make it.

Just before reaching the beach I managed to stub my little toe tearing the nail off and causing a bit of a mess on my flip flop. There was a shower on the beach of which we availed ourselves rinsing off all the grime (and dried blood in my case) and taking our fill drinking straight from the flow.

We’d bought some empty bottles and cans to fill. Despite now having a working water maker we still can’t pass the opportunity to carry more – particularly water so fresh and clean.

Back on the boat we had dinner. The wind had picked up earlier in the day and John found the snorkeling to be a little murky. We rested the afternoon before entertaining the Jacksters, Inspiration Ladys, the Bristol Roses and Jack from Anthem celebrating Dave from Jackster’s birthday. Another good time was had by all.

This morning we’re a little hung over so today is set to be a day of rest.