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Whiskers « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

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Western Holandes Cays

First day of the new decade saw us all waking a little tired and, at least in my case, feeling a little worse for wear. I took a couple of bags of trash up to the morning fire on BBQ island. There’s a cruiser who has been there for years who grooms the island every morning burning all the fallen chaff from the trees. It’s not his island but he does this all the same. He is letting grass grow across the island too. It makes it look nice and feel nice to walk on but chatting to Gerald while burning trash I learned the other other side of all this. The kuna are a bit pissed at him for doing this. They think, and are probably right, that burning the fallen palm fronds is killing the island. The natural state of the islands is to let the fronds rot into the ground providing nutrients for the trees still standing and growing. This is not happening. BBQ island may be a little paradise now but one day it will become lifeless.

After dropping off the trash we immediately set sail for the western end of the Holandes Cays. We had the sails up in lightish winds on flat seas. This enabled us to have lunch of soup and bread on the move. We arrived shortly after noon.

John and I went for a long snorkel while Annie and Sam took to the shore. We’ve found the best reef snorkeling so far. Being on the leeward side of an island which is also protected from the north by the reef we find a lot more fish diversity and fragile coral. We are also protected from the current that was raging through the swimming pool area. That being said there is a bit of a surge which makes snorkeling the reef extra interesting as it pushes us in and out through the channels in the rocks – a bit nerve wracking though when surrounded by fire coral. I had my speargun with me while snorkeling and at one point saw a long pair of lobster tentacle poking out from under a rock. I shot the lobster between the eyes but ended up disappointed as it was quite a small one. Back on the boat we didn’t cook it but used it’s flesh for bait on hook left hanging over the side of the boat. This morning there is a fish on the hook but it’s unfortunately dead. If it’s an eater we may cook it up. I’ll leave it there until the kids are awake so we can look at it together.

Dinner last night was home made pizza – very tasty even though it welded itself to the tray.

Whiskers are here too. We’ll be saying au revoir soon as our paths will separate and it’s not clear when we’ll next meet. It could be somewhere on the west side of Panama but my guess is that it will be in French Polynesia somewhere. We’re both heading to New Zealand by November and following roughly the same track and timetable. We were going to stay here just for one day but we’ve decided to stay one more day as the place seem popular and we weren’t in the best state to enjoy things to the maximum yesterday. Today we may even get the hookah out.

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Christmas Eve in The Pool

We’re settling into a nice slow rhythm here in The Pool. In the morning Fernancia, a Kuna “master mola” maker came around selling his wares. He had three buckets of molas to show us. He pulled them all out one by one so we could see each one. Then, as he returned them to his buckets we picked out the ones that we found appealing. We ended up with a rather large pile which we had to whittle down further. Then came the price negotiation. The prices have gone up over the last few years as the Kuna react to the ‘market’. Sadly cruise ships now turn up in the area from time to time and the popularity of molas has grown so they know what they can get. Nevertheless we stuck to buying some of the more detailed molas. These will turn into treasured memories of the trip. Annie managed to acquire three to her liking too.

With John’s help I managed to do a project. I installed a bridge (ordered from the US) between the Raymarine boat instruments and our Garmin chartplotter. From the bridge we also ran a serial cable to the navigation station. Now that the Garmin chartplotter can receive information from the digital compass the MARPA functionality is now enabled. That allows us to track the speed and direction of radar targets. Useful for tracking squalls and ships that don’t show on AIS. The flow of information from the Garmin to the Raymarine equipment now seems better too. This may improve the ability of the autopilot to follow the charted route rather than a given direction. Finally, it now allows the wind data to show up on the computer. This should now come through on our position updates.

I spent a couple of sessions out on the reef looking for lobsters/crayfish. I managed to catch a couple at the smaller end of what is worth catching plus one much smaller still. Their tails went on the grill later in the evening as an appetizer to our Columbian steaks (mahi, mahi for Annie).

Around 4pm I put out a general invitation to folks nearby to join us on the beach of BBQ Island for sundowners at 5. A few folks turned up for a pleasant chat. Among them were Whiskers, Rosie and Jim from Sojourn (who we shared Thanksgiving table with in Cartagena), Saphire, Changing Spots (who we met on the island tour in Grenada), Steve and Trish from Curious (heading out to Pacific next year) and a few others.

After our BBQ on board we did a little star gazing. We were able to spot Andromeda but it was weak due to the moon being near. We also took a look at the craters and mountains on the moon as well as Jupiter and it’s moons. We finished the evening watching the end of the first Pirates movie as noone made it to the end the previous evening.

MERRY CHRISTMAS

Cayo Holandes – The Pool

Ready to set off we changed all the plans we had and decided to join Whiskers at “The Pool” in the East Holandes. Again – no wind to speak of so we motored the 10nm there trailing lines in the hope of catching something.

Arriving at “The Pool” we found a number of boats there as this is one of the most popular spots in the entire San Blas. And for good reason. The place is divine. I’ve used superlatives in the past to describe places like the Tobago Cays but this place puts them into the shade. The only downside is the sea life is sparce and shy.

Gerald from Whiskers popped over to say hello as soon as we arrived and shortly after we took lunch. After a brief rest all but Helen took off in the dinghy to find the “tunnel” we’d heard about. We did indeed find it. Below the water there was a tunnel with plenty of gaps to the surface. Along the surface was a channel which could be traversed to a point. Unfortunately the current entering the lagoon prevented us reaching the outside reef. I did manage to spot another shark coming down the channel towards me but both of us used the encounter as a trigger to turn around. Perhaps we’ll go back and explore with the scuba gear.

We spent well over an hour exploring the inside of the reef. We saw a few interesting creatures including a large parrot fish and a very large puffer fish.

Back on the boat it was back to relaxing. Sam and Annie took a walk around BBQ island. Later, Dianne and Gerald showed up for a few drinks which turned out, as ever, into a few more.

Most went to bed but Sam, Annie and I stayed up to after 1am chatting and looking at the stars.

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Ready to go

It’s now just a few hours to go before we head out of here. This morning is another one of those mornings where the bay smells like a toilet so we are keen to go.

Yesterday was a little busy. We did another provisioning run to the Carrefour supermarket in the morning. On the way we bumped into Gerald. The agent with our passports wasn’t around so we agreed that whoever found him first would collect all our paperwork.

We loaded up with more food and a little more beer – just in case the kids get too thirsty before we get to Panama City. We also picked up a lot of good quality beef which is very cheap here.

In the afternoon Gerald and Tom came over and we spent a few hours copying useful files and info we each had. Later we headed off to the local supermarket for more frozen and fresh food including our Christmas turkey.

Got a little more tidying to do before we go. Around 9am we’ll head round to the fuel dock and fill up. Then we’ll head out of the bay and find a shallow, clear patch to drop anchor and clean the props. The weather forecast still looks good (if not slightly better) to make it in two days albeit with a slow start perhaps. We’re going to head to Linton (9 36.7N 079 35.2W) as our first landfall. We’ve learned we can hire cars there and have the boat looked after. This gives us the option of going to pick the kids up from the airport which would be nice. We’ll look into the feasibility of doing that.

It will be sad to leave. We’ve made some good friends here and most we know we won’t see again. Every time we stay somewhere more than a week we grow a few roots which makes it all a little harder to move on. Problem with Cartagena is that if we don’t leave soon, the bay will grow roots into us.

Last Party in Cartagena

On Tuesday morning we walked over to the Carib mall so I could buy some pipes and sticks to make an extension pole to our grease syringe. Basically it’s a water pipe with a stick in it cut out on the end to accept the syringe. This enables me to squeeze grease into the dripless seals by removing the drawer under the bunks rather than open up the beds and removed whats stored under them.

We couldn’t find the agent yesterday so we’ll try again today. Yesterday was a public holiday. He said he’d be working but noone we know found him.

We also defrosted the fridge. It seems to do well for a long time but once the drip tray gets iced and the outflow blocks the thing frosts up very quickly. We’d reached that point so it had to be done and best before we do our provisioning today.

In the evening we were invited over to Whiskers for a Durban Curry cooked by Dianne. Tom and Marge from 3/4 time were there too. The food was great and we had a good evening. Again, a little more beer/wine that was good for us.

Bar anything unfortunate that delays us we should be off tomorrow. That makes last night our last night of partying here in Cartagena. We’ll want to be fit and straight for our two day crossing to Panama. The weather forecasts look good. It’s hard to predict the coastal winds but the forecasts seem to be consistently predicting good winds for us out at sea. Our current thinking is to sail to Portobello and stay around there until Monday morning when we’ll head over to Shelter Bay Marina in Colon and kick of the admin ourselves.